When watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey came together for the first time in 1992, little did the watch world know that they were soon in for the ride of their lives. Founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 2004, the titular brand is the epitome of horological superiority. Just two decades into the game has seen the independent brand ascend to the very top of haute horlogerie, effectively landing them in 50th place in Morgan Stanley’s highest-grossing watch brands of 2023. 

That might not sound like a high spot at first, but their creativity and engineering prowess saw them sell just 255 watches, totalling CHF 50 million for the entire year.  That’s an average transaction value of CHF 196,078! By contrast, Bell & Ross in 49th sold 13,600 watches to get to the same point, averaging CHF 3,676 per watch. Never content to rest on their laurels, however, Greubel Forsey has opted to celebrate this momentous 20th birthday with the introduction of their 10th ‘Fundamental Invention,’ by way of the new Nano Foudroyante EWT. This is the first chronograph watch – and the first flying tourbillon – ever made by the brand, but by no means is it easy to comprehend at first glance, even if you have read our article on Chronograph watches.

That won’t stop me from trying, though! The Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT contains a highly complex and rare complication in the watchmaking industry: a seconde foudroyante, or ‘lightning seconds.’ For most mechanical watches, the second hand appears to move smoothly, but it actually jumps in fractional increments, commonly called ‘beats,’ to enhance overall time-telling precision. In this case, the Nano Foudroyante EWT runs at 6 beats per second, which is around 21,600VpH (Vibrations per Hour/Beats per Hour) or 3Hz. This means that it can tell time accurately to one-sixth of a second.

The seconde foudroyante is a visual representation of such, mounted atop the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s flying tourbillon. Simply explained, a seconde foudroyante complication displays each sixth of a second as it occurs, allowing for an incredibly precise reading of time. With the chronograph being the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s primary complication, the seconde foudroyante in theory permits the most accurate reading of elapsed time. 

Related Reading: The Art Of Complications – The Tourbillon

The downside to a seconde foudroyante is that it consumes a ton of juice to operate. Even traditional chronographs with monstrous power reserves like TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 movement falter at the sight of one. If you’re Jaeger-LeCoultre, then the most practical solution would be to use a completely separate barrel to operate the complication, as per the Duometre system present in, for example, this JLC Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual released at Watches and Wonders 2024. However, Greubel Forsey’s MO isn’t in maximisation, but in minimisation. Ever the specialists in nanomechanics, their engineers discovered a method of reducing the seconde foudroyante’s impact on the power reserve.

Where a traditional seconde foudroyante consumes 30μJ (microjoules) per beat, the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s mechanism has reduced it to a mere 16 nJ (nanojoules) per beat – requiring 1,800 times less energy than the original. In layman’s terms, imagine if a Dodge Hellcat SRT, which averages 3–4 miles per gallon at full acceleration (199mph/320kph), was modified to maintain 3,600mpg whilst sacrificing absolutely nothing. That’s 38 times more than the Toyota Prius’ world record-breaking 95mpg!

It’s for this reason that, instead of keeping it synced with the monopusher flyback chronograph, Greubel Forsey has elected to keep the Nano Foudroyante EWT running perpetually with the tourbillon. Yes, it still eats into the power reserve – only lasting 24 hours on a full wind – but it serves more as a proof of concept than anything. It just goes to show that, despite how anachronistic mechanical watchmaking may be, there are still rules to be made, and many more yet to be broken!

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As always, though, the mechanics are only half of the story, and Greubel Forsey’s design chops shine through despite the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s simplistic layout. Standing at a scant 37.9mm with a 10.49mm thickness, this timepiece comprises a centre case of 18k white gold sandwiched between a tantalum bezel and case back. The dial is textured white gold, with the seconde foudroyante affixed to the flying tourbillon at 5:30. The watch also consists of a small seconds counter at 7:30 and a 60-minute register at 9 o’clock. Finally, the chronograph function is operated by the 2 o’clock monopusher, with the flyback system built into the crown itself.

Initial Thoughts

I knew that unpacking this watch would mean that I would go onto some serious technobabble, but the Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT deserves it. In fact, all watches from Greubel Forsey deserve this treatment, as they are all examples of micro (and in this case, nano) mechanical engineering done to the highest degree.

I have said ad nauseam that we still have plenty more to learn in the realms of mechanical watchmaking, and the Nano Foudroyante EWT is absolutely no exception. To integrate such a rare and complex mechanism into a wristwatch is a challenge in of itself; To make a dramatically improved version, whilst maintaining a modest set of dimensions, seems damn near impossible. But of course, if you’re either Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, or any of the incredible engineers and craftsmen under their employ, the impossible is accomplished on a daily basis. That’s how it’s been at Greubel Forsey over the last 20 years, and that’s surely how it will remain for the next 20.

Reference: Nano Foudroyante EWT

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 37.9mm case diameter x 10.49mm thickness
• Case Material: Tantalum & 18k white gold
• Dial: Textured white gold
• Movement: Manual wind Greubel Forsey 10th Fundamental Invention with flyback chronograph, tourbillon, & seconde foudroyante
• Power Reserve: 24h
• Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
• Strap: Non-animal material strap with white gold pin buckle 

International RRP: CHF 463,000

Availability: Limited to 11 pieces. Visit GreubelForsey.com to find out more.

Square watches, and we’re not talking about your more formal rectangular dress watches either, no we mean SQUARE! – they can be divisive, as not everyone loves them. But, there are some great watches out there from some of the biggest, and not-so-big, names in the industry. They can be sporty, or they can be much more dressy, but either way, no matter what your style or lifestyle is, there is a square-shaped watch out there for most tastes. So, if you’re thinking about that perfect square-shaped watch, then we’ve hand-picked 10 square watches at a range of price points that are sure to win someone over this Christmas, even if that someone is you!

Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue

Bell & Ross are famous for their square watches, more specifically, the circle inside the square which was inspired by instrument panels on old planes – hence their tagline, Instruments for Professionals. However, their Urban collection takes this concept and refines it a little with sleeker and more modern-looking pieces, and the skeletonised BR-05 Arctic Blue takes this one step further with a skeletonised blue dial designed to look like it’s been carved out of ice. It is 40mm wide and 10.33 mm thick, so it will suit most wrists out there, Bell & Ross bracelets are comfortable, so it’s a great everyday piece for those who want something sporty and a little left of centre. The best part? It is limited to 250 pieces, so you will have something a little unique.

• Reference: BR05A-AB-SKST/SST
• Australian RRP: A$12,800

For more information, visit BellRoss.com

Cartier Santos de Cartier Green

Is there anything more iconic in the square watch world than the Cartier Santos? The Santos was the world’s first pilots watch, and wristwatch for that matter with a history dating back to 1904 when Louis Cartier gifted pioneering aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont a watch to help with his flying endeavours. These days, the Santos de Cartier is more modern, with different sizes and materials, but the DNA of the original is still there. We’ve chosen the Santos de Cartier Automatic Medium in green, hey, it’s Christmas and the green dial is perfect for the season, or anytime really. The Santos has an interchangeable green alligator leather strap as well, and with the quick change mechanism, you can swap between the two each day. A staple for any collection, or for someone who wants that one watch that can be highly versatile, worn each day and for any occasion.

• Reference: WSSA0061
• Australian RRP: A$11,500

For more information, visit Cartier.com.au

Cartier Panthère de Cartier Medium Rose Gold

Yes, it’s another Cartier, but this time, we’ve chosen the Panthère medium in rose gold. Cartier is famous for their case shapes, and they do square watches so, so well. The Panthère de Cartier is having a bit of a renaissance of late as well and can be for both men and women, so it’s quite the versatile piece. Due to its size: 29mm x 37mm, with a thickness of just 7mm, it is a quartz watch, but this means it’s highly accurate and will keep ticking for many years before a battery change is needed. The Panthère de Cartier is another timeless piece that will pair well with most outfits. it dresses up casual attire and completes any formal look too. A great one to put on the Christmas wish list!

• Reference: WGPN0007
• Australian RRP: A$43,200

For more information, visit Cartier.com.au

Hublot Square Bang Unico Titanium Blue Ceramic

We all know Hublot doesn’t follow the trends, they set them, and the Square Bang is their version of a square-shaped watch, with Big Bang Unico vibes. In this instance, it’s the titanium and blue ceramic version, which is a great versatile colourway, and coming in at 42mm, it’s not too big for most to pull off! It’s a bold-looking piece, but is light thanks to the titanium case and ceramic bezel, on top of that, it has Hublot’s in-house HUB1280 Unico 2 movement which is one of the smoothest flyback chronographs on the market today.

• Reference: 821.NL.5170.RX
• Australian RRP: A$37,600

For More Information Visit: Hublot.com

Hermès H08 Rose Gold

Hermès doesn’t get enough credit as a watchmaker. It is a typical story of a high-end fashion brand getting into the watch world, and people not associating it with pure horology. But, the leather goods manufacturer has come a long way with their watch division, now having in-house movements to the point where they are developing some amazing high complications, like the Arceau l’Heure de la Lune. The H08 Rose Gold is a great precious metal sports watch, with an 18k rose gold outer case, ceramic bezel and a black DLC titanium case back. Inside is the Hermés 1837 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve and this piece is 100m water resistant, so with the rubber strap, you can enjoy it without worry. It is a great mid-sized watch with a 39mm diameter and 42mm across the wrist, so will suit many wrists, both men and women, and the price is pretty good as well for a gold watch.

• Reference: W060124WW00
• Australian RRP: A$26,000

For More Information Visit: Hermes.com

Patek Philippe Cubitus

So we had to put the Cubitus in here, it would be wrong not to! There’s been perhaps no watch this year that’s had just a mixed reception to it than Patek Philippe’s Cubitus. But, putting all the conjecture aside, it’s a decent looking square sports watch, and lets face it, there’s quite a lot of celebrities that haver been seen wearing it and we’re going to go out on a limb here and say it will be a hot watch to get…eventually. It’s wide at 45mm, but its slim at just 8.3mm and from all reports, as long as you don’t have tiny wrists, you can get away with it. Can you easily get one? No, not unless you’re already a customer, or you’re in the know, but one to put on the list anyway!

• Reference: 5821/1A
• Australian RRP: POA

For More Information Visit: Patek.com

Rado True Square Open Heart

Rado is known as the Master of Materials and for good reason. The brand has been working with ceramics for decades and were one of the pioneers of it. Their High-Tech ceramic looks great and even better when polished, like this True Square in polished black High-Tech Ceramic. It’s also part of their Open Heart range, with skeletonised dials showcasing the movement underneath. Lightweight, almost scratch-proof (my wife has had a Rado True Thinline white ceramic for 10 years and still looks brand new!), water resistant to 50m and with an 80-hour power reserve, it is a good all-round watch. Coupled with this, at 38mm in diameter and 9.7mm thick, it can be worn by most wrist sizes on both men and women. Don’t like black? That’s ok, Rado has a range of colour variants to choose from.

• Reference: R27086152
• Australian RRP: A$4,350

For More Information Visit: Rado.com

SevenFriday CuXedo

You may not have heard of SevenFriday, it’s not a hugely well-known or popular brand, but it does have a strong following from those who know, and those who know, love it! They do some cool retro-styled pieces and in a rounded square shape for the most part and the CuXedo is a great example. With an openworked dial, rotating small seconds ring and rather than the date, a window indicating the day make this a fun watch. The animation ring is done in Damascene, a process that fuses different metals together to create a unique pattern. Sized at 47.6mm, it’s a large watch, but it’s fun and for someone who wants to buck the norm and go their own way in the watch world.

• Reference: PS2/02 CuXedo
• Australian RRP: A$2,550

For More Information Visit: AU.SevenFriday.com

TAG Heuer Monaco Titanium Pink

What would a square watch gift guide be without one of the OG square sports watches? The TAG Heuer Monaco is a classic, made famous when Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans over 50 years ago. Since then, it has become a classic, and the modern iterations have taken the DNA of the Monaco and made it relevant for today’s watch lover. This example is the latest Monaco released just last month and features a skeletonised dial with hot pink accents, housed in a black DLC titanium case and with TAG Heuer’s in-house TH20-00 chronograph movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Speaking from experience, don’t be fooled by the size on paper – 39mm, 47.4mm lug to lug & 15.2mm thick. This is a great watch that is super easy to wear each day, and looks great on the wrist, albeit a little different to what you may see others wearing at your local café. But that’s a good thing.

• Reference: CBL218B.FT6236
• Australian RRP: A$16,300

For More Information Visit: Tagheuer.com

Tissot Lovely Square

Tissot is known for its value-for-money propositions, and the Tissot Lovely Square is no exception here. Measuring 20mm x 20mm, this is a watch for those ladies who want something small and elegant on their wrist that can be paired with just about any outfit. Reminiscent of ladies’ dress watches from the 1960s, the Tissot Lovely Square is made from 316L steel, water-resistant to 30m and has a Swiss Quartz movement for no fuss. It is also great bang for buck at less than A$500, so it’s perfect as a gift for that special girl in your life, or a cheeky gift for yourself!

• Reference: T058.109.11.041.00
• Australian RRP: A$495

For More Information Visit: Tissotwatches.com

There you have it. 10 square watches at various prices for the discerning watch lover in your life. If you haven’t seen our Christmas Gift Guide To Chronographs, then make sure you check it out as well and stay tuned for more Gift Guide ideas over the next 2 weeks in the lead-up to Christmas.

Fine cigars and watches have a lot in common. Both are made by skilled people who have taken years to hone their craft, both are enjoyed by aficionados of their respective categories (sometimes both) and both have a history and story to tell. When a brand like Hublot, who likes to buck convention and go its own way teams up with one of the world’s best Cigar families, the result is always going to be striking. And this is what we have in the latest Hublot x Fuente timepiece, the sixth between the two. This time, is a King Gold Classic Fusion Chronograph, and I can say it is definitely a good-looking piece in the metal!

Back in 2012, Carlito Fuente and his family cigar business, Arturo Fuente Cigars celebrated their 100th birthday, and for this, joined forces with Hublot to create timepieces with a charitable bent – with a portion of the profits from the watches supporting the Dominican population through the Fuente Family Foundation. Since then, there have been five Hublot x Fuente collaborations, and this year it’s a special year as the Fuente family is celebrating the 25th anniversary of their Fuente Fuente OpusX line – the first Dominican puro cigar produced by Carlito Fuente and one of the most acclaimed cigars ever produced thanks to the way they are made.

This year, Hublot and Arturo Fuente, headed up by Arturo Fuente’s grandson, Carlito Fuente celebrate the family’s most sought-after cigars, the Fuente Fuente OpusX. These cigars are made by the most skilled and experienced cigar rollers, “torcedores” who have to undergo a further 10 months of training before being allowed to make the OpusX cigars. Unlike other premium cigars that use 5 leaves, OpusX uses 9 leaves, and are then left for 2 years to mature and gain the robust and mature aromas they are famous for. So, for Hublot, creating a piece that spoke to this craft was essential, and created the Classic Fusion Chronograph Arturo Fuente King Gold, with all the hallmarks of Hublot, the Classic Fusion and adding in elements that bring out the Arturo Fuente brand.

Done in an 18-carat King Gold (Hublot’s version of rose gold) case, and measuring 42mm in diameter and 11.9mm thick, the watch is striking in the metal as the contrast of the fumé gradient smoked green dial and green alligator strap really offset this piece. Hublot has laser-engraved tobacco leaves on the bezel, and this helps to bring to life the partnership and a nod to the famous cigar family. As a design aesthetic, it also helps to frame the dial and give the otherwise brushed bezel great character.

The dial has been done in a smoked gradient fumé green, that starts out as a deep, dark green at the outer, then lightens as you move towards the centre of the dial. This, mixed with the King Gold hands, hour markers, and chapter rings on the chronograph sub-dials give a striking contrast and if you’ve read previous articles of mine, I’m quite partial to a deep green dial matched and rose gold watch. The OpusX logo can be found on the small seconds dial at 3 o’clock, another nod to the cigar collection.

The Classic Fusion Arturo Fuente Chronograph has been given a celebratory case back, with a limited edition number of 50 inscribed into the case. The Fuente OpusX 25-year motif is engraved with black and green lacquer, along with Carlito Fuente’s signature and the name of the family estate in the Dominican Republic – Chateau de la Fentue. Inside is the HUB1153 self-winding chronograph movement, beating at 4Hz and giving the watch a 48-hour power reserve. It’s a passable power reserve, but at the end of the day, standard for this movement and not one to worry too much about if you’re wearing this piece on a regular basis.

Like other Fuente collaborations, this piece comes in a green lacquer box, that doubles as a cigar humidor, designed in collaboration with Manny Iriarte, long-time creative partner. For those who are cigar lovers, this is a great secondary prize here as you’re not left with a watch box lying around that like most of us with these, sitting in a drawer or closet gathering dust.

Initial Thoughts

I’m not a cigar guy, and I probably wouldn’t be able to tell you the difference between the OpusX Forbidden X or the OpusX Angel’s Share cigars. But that doesn’t matter as I know that these are made with skill and love for a craft that is over a century old in the case of the Fuente Family. And does it mean I like the watch less because of this? No. In fact, because of the watch, I want to delve deeper into the cigar side of this collaboration and learn more about it. It’s the innate curiosity in me I guess, but also, the watch has an altruistic component as well, which is a bonus.

No matter how much of a watch nut you are, or how much you delve into the ins and outs of the watch, the movement, and all that geeky stuff we do, sometimes a watch is just plain cool. You’re drawn to it because of the way it looks and feels on the wrist and the way it makes you feel. For me, this is exactly what happened with this piece when the team and I had a play with it prior to the launch this week. The green and gold colourway is great, it pops. The design of the bezel with the cigar leaves is cool, and it is different. The watch is a talking point, and with only 50 pieces available, not a piece you’ll see in the wild much, if at all.

Reference: 541.OX.8980.LR.OPX24 – limited to 50 pieces

Specification:

• Case: 42mm x 11.9mm thick
• Case Material: Satin-finished and Polished 18K King Gold
• Dial: Gradient Green Sunray with 18k King Gold hands and hour markers. OpusX logo on the small seconds dial
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
• Movement: HUB1153 Self-winding Chronograph Movement, beating at 4Hz / 28,800 Vph & pivoting on 39 jewels
• Case-Back: 18k King Gold with black and green lacquered OpusX 25 motif
• Water resistance: 50 metres / 5 ATM
• Power reserve: 48 hours
• Strap: Black Rubber and Green Alligator Leather Strap with 18K 5N Gold and Black-plated Stainless Steel Deployant Buckle Clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: A$60,500

Availability: Available through Hublot Boutiques, and online at Hublot.com

The search for the perfect gift begins with the festive season well and truly among us! For watch enthusiasts and those who appreciate watches, a well-crafted chronograph is an appealing model to add to the collection. Chronograph timepieces have become a symbol of versatility, combining functionality and aesthetic appeal. This Christmas, whether it’s for yourself, a loved one, or a friend who is into watches, a finely crafted chronograph may indeed be the perfect gift.

Chronographs are timepieces that are instruments of precision and utility. When chronograph models were originally developed, they were created for pilots, racers, and divers, for whom measuring time was crucial to the profession. From timing laps on a racetrack to calculating speeds or even keeping track of everyday events, chronograph timepieces are certainly a useful tool that comes with a dose of elegance. In the modern day, however, chronograph timepieces have gone beyond their functional origins to become icons of watchmaking design.

When it comes to the world of horology, the variety of chronograph timepieces you’ll find is staggering. Brands are always trying to innovate and incorporate new designs into this iconic complication, such as innovating the simple chronograph mechanism further by creating complications such as the split-second chronograph, rattrapante chronograph or even the flyback chronograph. When it comes to aesthetic design, there is a range of styles to suit various tastes as well. From the classic two-register layouts to modern three-register chronographs or configurations like the rattrapantes and flybacks, each type offers a unique story and appeal!

When choosing a chronograph timepiece as a gift, it is essential to consider the lifestyle of the recipient. Do they love motorsports? In that case, they may prefer chronographs with tachymeters, which are reminiscent of early chronographs used for racing. Maybe they like to travel the world, so a world-time chronograph would be a perfect gift. Or maybe in their downtime, they like to go diving, for which a divers chronograph watch would suit them great! It could also be simply that they like the look of a chronograph watch; the sight of a chronograph in action, its sweeping hands measuring time with the precision of the intricate and complex movement inside, can certainly be appealing. Whatever the passion or reason, a chronograph is a great addition to any watch collection. While there are too many chronograph models released this year to list, we’ve chosen some great stand-out pieces, shown below, that will cater to a variety of tastes, preferences and budget!

A. Lange & Söhne 

Datograph Up/Down 750 White Gold

A.Lange & Sohne introduced a new version of the Datograph Up/Down, this time presented in a 750 white gold case with an aesthetic blue dial with white counters. The Datograph Up/Down features a flyback chronograph mechanism, a precisely jumping minute counter, an outsize date and a power-reserve indicator. The flyback mechanism allows two quick consecutive time measurements, with virtually no delay between these. The chronograph is stopped, reset to zero, and started again in next to no time.

• Reference:  405.028
• International Recommended Retail Price: Price upon request

For More Information, Visit: Alange-soehne.com

Audemars Piguet

Code 11.59 Self-winding Chronograph

Audemars Piguet created quite the buzz when they released the Code 11.59 collection. This latest 18-carat pink gold version brings forth the latest design evolution for the Code 11.59 Chronograph, with the stand out signature embossed dial now being presented in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade. The blue contrasts beautifully against the pink gold of the case and dial to make a very attractive-looking timepiece.

RELATED READING: Audemars Piguet Drops Seven New Code 11:59 Pieces

• Reference:  26393OR.OO.A348KB.01
• International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 43,300 

For More Information, Visit: AudemarsPiguet.com

Breitling

Chronomat B01 42 Arctic White Australian Limited Edition

As part of Breitling’s 140th anniversary celebrations, the brand has released a limited-edition version dedicated to Australia and New Zealand. Limited to just 140 models, this timepiece features a crisp “Arctic White” dial done in a matte white coating to give it an almost lacquer dial look. The black counters for the chronograph functions not only contrast well, but also gives the dial the panda look.

RELATED READING: Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition

• Reference: AB01344B1A1S1
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $12,190

For More Information, Visit: Breitling.com.au

Glashuette Original

SeaQ Chronograph

The latest version of Glashuette Original’s SeaQ Chronograph has a not-so-straightforward black-and-white look. The dial features two subcounters with the outer rings being done in black, while the date window at 6 o’clock is oversized and is also done in black to stay in the colour theme. What makes this watch stand out, however, is the dial finish. The dial finish is achieved by using a galvanic silver dial that makes use of the same optical effect that cinema screens once achieved using a thin coat of silver paint: the surface reduces the dispersion of light to a minimum and enables more excellent contrast than a traditional white background.

RELATED READING: Introducing The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen”

• Reference: 1-37-23-03-80-34
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $23,000

For More Information, Visit: Glashuette-original.com

Hublot

Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic

During Watches & Wonders 2024, Hublot released two new colours for their Big Bang Unico collection, one in bright orange and another in a military green proving once again, that they’re masters of the coloured ceramic watch! This is arguably the first time bright orange ceramic has been used to create a watch case, showing Hublot’s daring spirt of innovation and being different.

Related Reading: Hublot Adds Two New Colours To The Big Bang Unico Collection

• Reference: 441.CU.5910.RX
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $44,100 

For More Information, Visit: Hublot.com.au

Seiko

Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph

Seiko has quite the extensive collection of Proxpex Speedtimer Solar Chronographs, providing a timepiece for a variety of tastes and colour preferences. This latest model, however, is arguably the stand-out timepiece of the collection. It features a striking sunburst gold dial with black counters in direct contrast. The tachymeter bezel is done in blue and red, further spicing up what is one colourful timepiece.

• Reference: SSC947
• International Recommended Retail Price: AUD $1,100

For More Information, Visit: Seikowatches.com.au

Swatch x Omega

Moonswatch Mission To Earthphase

The Swatch x Omega was all the buzz and hype when the Moonswatch was first introduced. Since then, the two brands have slowly been drip-feeding new models into the collection. One of the latest is the Mission to Earthphase, which comes with a grey dial with a grain texture to resemble the moon’s surface. What’s cool about this edition, however, is that it boasts both a moon phase and a patented earth phase function. Two oversized moons with Super-LumiNova® (white emission) can be seen on the moon phase disc, which rotates in the subdial set at 2 o’clock. The earth phase function located in the subdial at 10 o’clock is coloured.

• Reference: Mission To Earthphase
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $525.00

For More Information, Visit: Swatch.com

TAG Heuer

Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Silver Panda

Combining classic racing heritage with modern silver charm, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Silver Panda has many little details that make this one of the best Carrera models yet. While the case has the signature Carrera styling, it’s the dial that makes this watch drool-worthy. When you look at the Sunray silver panda dial, you’ll see that it has a brushed finish. Combine this with the circular engraved sub-dials and the touches of red found throughout the dial, and it quickly becomes a very aesthetically pleasing dial with a lot to offer!

RELATED READING: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda!

• Reference: CBS2216.BA0041
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $9,650

For More Information, Visit: Tagheuer.com.au

Tudor

Black Bay Chrono

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono released this year, is offered in two colour variants. Firstly we get the standard blue (which is still beautiful too) with contrasting white hour indices and hands. The second, which is just stunning, is the pink dial variant. There aren’t many pink dial offerings in the market today, and Tudor has absolutely nailed this colour. Presented on the 5-link bracelet, this watch is elegant, classy and looks stunning!

• Reference: m79360n-0019
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $8,370

For More Information, Visit: Tudorwatch.com

Zenith

Defy Skyline Chronograph

During Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith released a chronograph version of their highly popular Defy Skyline model. The Defy Skyline Chronograph keeps the design of the Defy Skyline intact, while now enhancing it with a 1/10th second chronograph function. The model is presented in either a blue dial or white dial, with the white dial variant getting a colourful green strap. Both dials also feature Zenith’s iconic star logo imprinted onto the dial. which adds a subtle aesthetic detail to the chronograph dial.

RELATED READING: Hands On With The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

• Reference: Ref 03.9500.3600/01.I00
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $20,700

For More Information, Visit: Zenith-watches.com

It’s the end of the year already! Well, it certainly doesn’t feel like it, to be honest. My mind kind of clocked out in July, so I’ve had precious little time to process this month if any at all. TAG Heuer shares a similar sentiment about the year gone by, as they seem to be ignoring any pretences of a relaxation period by revving up yet another release with longstanding partner, Oracle Red Bull Racing. 

Since 1976, Red Bull has made significant strides to transform their image. From Krating Daeng, the essential pick-me-up for truck drivers and jet lag, to the ‘cool people doing cool things (that are usually extremely dangerous)’ multinational icon, the rise of the now-culturally inescapable Red Bull brand is something worthy of admiration. No other energy drink brand has ever gone as far as they have to sponsor some of humanity’s greatest sporting feats, and it was only a matter of time before they entered the illustrious world of motorsports. They would do just that in 2004, when they became a sponsor of Formula 1, one of the most televised motorsports of all time. It wouldn’t take long for them to take advantage of the situation, though, as they penned a deal to replace the Jaguar Formula One team, effectively joining the organisation as the year closed.

In the wake of 6 Constructor’s Championships, 8 Driver’s Championships (half of which now belong to the venerable Max Verstappen), 122 race victories and 99 fastest laps, the Oracle Red Bull Racing Team has clearly gone from fledgling to legend. This year, they ring in the 20th anniversary of their union with Formula One, which of course needs an appropriate celebrant for the occasion. Who better to ask, perhaps, than TAG Heuer? The La Chaux-du-Fonds brand likely knows motorsport better than anyone out there: The brand formerly known as Heuer became the first ever non-automotive sponsor in Formula 1 in the early seventies, and even became the official timekeeper of the Oracle Red Bull Racing team in 2016 – the same year as Verstappen.

So while parent company LVMH is busy signing a 10-year deal to sponsor Formula 1, TAG Heuer has set aside appropriate time to properly commemorate the innumerable achievements they shared alongside the Oracle Red Bull Racing team. Of course, the only fitting model for the occasion was the Formula One collection, with TAG Heuer creating a new 3000-piece limited edition run.

Related Reading: Brand Essentials Tales From TAG Heuer 

Standing at a 43mm case diameter x 48.5mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness, you could be fooled into thinking that this watch is a lot larger than you bargained for. This is half true; The C-shape case DNA still runs true in the Formula One Collection, but you’d be happy to know that the watch wears more true to size than those of a similar width. The quartz chronograph movement – a Ronda-based calibre – remains in this watch, but it’s hardly a pain point considering the entry-level nature of the Formula 1 lineup.

Though the Red Bull Special Edition has long been a mainstay in TAG Heuer’s annual lineup, this celebratory rendition has a few tricks up its sleeve to help differentiate it from its original lineage. The case is now offered in a black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating, dramatically improving all-around scratch resistance, accompanied by a navy strap reminiscent of the Oracle Red Bull Racing uniform colours.

The dial has been significantly updated, with a grained finish that evokes a navy-coloured asphalt, with the Oracle Red Bull Racing logo also making its first-ever appearance on the dial. No other Red Bull Special Edition has ever done this before, so this one is definitely for the hardcore fans. Finally, the case back has been adorned with Oracle Red Bull Racing’s 20th season and team logos – a duo of defining symbols in the world of motorsports that remain of equal importance to TAG Heuer.

Initial Thoughts

Complete with a unique leather travel case and sleek branded box, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph X Oracle Red Bull Racing is a love letter to one of the best modern Formula 1 companies around. Built from the ground up as a tribute to the achievements of Red Bull and TAG Heuer, it’s a purpose-built piece with a sentimental design that can even make McLaren’s Lando Norris happy – I didn’t even know that was possible this season!

Yes, the Oracle Red Bull Racing team still has a long way to go before they can enter the Formula 1 Hall of Fame – Scuderia Ferrari, for example, has 15 Driver’s Championships and 16 Constructor’s Championships to their name. However, they’ve been in the game since the 1950s, and in about a third of the time, Oracle Red Bull Racing is already halfway to matching their resume. In any case, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph X Oracle Red Bull Racing stands as a double-decade victory lap for Oracle Red Bull Racing, celebrating all of their current achievements whilst anticipating how much more of the journey there is left to go. And with Max Verstappen recently collecting his fourth championship in a row, who knows how long until Ferrari starts quaking in their boots? Better start your engines!

Reference: CAZ101AZ.FT8090

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 43mm case diameter x 48.5mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness
• Case Material: Black DLC stainless steel
• Dial: Blue with Yellow & Red accents, Red Bull motif
• Movement: Quartz 
• Complications: Date, Chronograph with 1/10th sec & 30 min registers
• Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
• Strap: Blue rubber with black DLC steel pin buckle

Australian RRP: AU$3,850

Availability: Limited to 3000 pieces. Available at TAGHeuer.com and all authorised retailers.

Back in July, we reported the re-shuffling of CEO roles over at Richemont, which all started when Nicolas Bos, then-current CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels took the role of CEO of Richemont from June 1st this year. This move then started a domino effect of sorts, with a shuffling of other brands to fill the CEO role at Van Cleef & Arpels as well as the top role at Cartier thanks to Cyrille Vigneron’s departure.

These moves resulted in Catherine Rénier, then CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, moving into the CEO role at Van Cleef & Arpels, a good move by the company. Taking Cyrille Vigneron’s role at Cartier was Vacheron Constantin Boss, Louis Ferla. These two moves left a few empty CEO seats, and last week it was announced that they have now been filled.

Jérôme Lambert, an industry veteran has been tapped on the shoulder to take over the top role at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Some may know Jérôme Lambert already as he previously held the CEO position of Jaeger-LeCoultre from 2002 to 2013. He has had an illustrious career with Richemont, Starting out at Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1996 as the brand’s financial controller, then CFO before becoming CEO. Since leaving the CEO role, he has gone on to head up Mont Blanc and in 2017 he became Richemont’s Group Head of Operations, and in the same year, Group Operations Officer overseeing most of the Jewellery and Watchmaking operations. This set him up for the top role, with Mr Lambert becoming the Group Chief Executive Officer from September 2018 to May 2024, before stepping into the Group Chief Operating Officer role in June of this year.

“It is with profound honour and genuine pleasure that I return to the Grande Maison, the place where I first set foot into the magnificent world of Swiss watchmaking. This opportunity is both a privilege and a homecoming to the craft and heritage that have shaped my career.”

Jérôme Lambert, incoming Jager-LeCoutlre CEO

Alongside Mr Lambert at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Perves fills the CEO role at Vacheron Constantin, and again, is no stranger to the brand. Having joined the Maison in 2016, first as Chief Marketing Officer, then as the Chief Commercial Officer since 2021, he, too, is a luxury industry veteran with over 20 years of experience. Mr Perves has worked at the LVMH group as Change Manager over a number of years, and then 10 years in the ‘Prestige Products’ Division of Procter & Gamble, where he occupied various functions in Consumer Intelligence, Marketing, Creation and Business Development, before reaching a Global Brand Leadership position on Gucci Parfums.

In 2014, he entered the world of Swiss Watchmaking as Head of Brand Communication for Audemars Piguet before moving into the CMO role at Vacheron Constantin, where he worked hand in hand with Vacheron’s previous CEO, Louis Ferla.

Both Jérôme Lambert and Laurent Perves will start their new roles from the 1st of January 2025. We wish them all the best!

The Arsham Droplet is typically Hublot, even though it doesn’t look like anything else Hublot has produced. Ever. That statement sounds like an oxymoron a little, but if you know Hublot, then you’ll know that they pride themselves on creating pieces that are like no other watch brands out there. Just take a look at their watch collaborations. Orlinski, Sang Bleu, and Murakami to name a few. Or their Manufacture Pieces, like the MP-05 LaFerrari, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, or MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde. These are all Hublot, and while all very different, all have that distinct Hublot style, embedded with Hublot DNA at their core.

One of the main reasons these are all unique is Hublot gives create reign to their designers and collaborators, to infuse as much of them into the pieces as Hublot. To me, I love this. Rather than sticking a logo on an already existing watch with a new colour dial, Hublot makes its pieces in partnership with those people who work with the brand. Take the latest Big Bang Unico x Djokovic. Yes, it looks like a Big Bang Unico, but it is made with Novak Djokovic in mind, and also in collaboration with him, using his old requests and shirts and making the watch ultra-light and shock-resistant, designed to be worn whilst playing.

Another great example is the long-running partnership Hublot has with Takashi Murakami. What watch would better embody the famous Japanese artist than a flower, the shape and design Takashi Murakami is famous for and incorporates into his art? So a flower-shaped watch it is! So it would come as no surprise that when Hublot teamed up with Daniel Arsham, the multi-disciplined visual artist, this collaboration would be something not seen before. And it was!

First Impressions

This was one of those releases that as much as the images online showcased it, you had to see it in person to understand it and see how it actually looked and felt in the hand. It may have taken 6 months to get our hands on it, but it did not disappoint when we did. Firstly, it isn’t a wristwatch. So this alone puts it into the ‘intriguing’ basket. Secondly, Hublot and Daniel Arsham have come up with a unique drop-shaped, full sapphire watch, which is also a three-in-one piece. While it may sound contradictory, this fact makes it both versatile and usable, but also not at the same time. Again, this is Hublot through and through – a contradiction in terms but somehow, it works.

I’ll say this at the start – pictures don’t really do this justice, and photographing it with the way the sapphire curves and plays with the light isn’t easy, but that is not what is important. It’s how it feels in the hand and looks to the eye. The first time in the hand, you get the appeal instantly as it’s so different, and while you’re not 100% sure what to make of it, you just know you like it.

The Design

The Arsham Droplet is just that, a droplet. When coming up with the design, contemporary artist Daniel Arsham took his inspiration from the way water flows and forms drops in nature. You can see this in the strange asymmetrical-shaped case, which is made from sapphire crystal. It isn’t your typically shaped drop, but more a strange form of fluidity, like the way liquid metal starts to form and pull together when separated. What is instantly noticeable is the clarity of the sapphire, something Hublot excels at. It is as if the watch was dipped into a super clear liquid, and it solidified instantly forming the shape with no impurities or ripples whatsoever. What is more remarkable here is this isn’t one piece of sapphire either, it is two pieces, moulded and put together around an inner skeleton.

Inside the watch is a full titanium skeleton, which you can see in the image above clearly. This skeleton forms the base of the watch and holds all the vital organs in place. The titanium has been shaped with a range of different-sized circles and ovals, which together give the watch structure, but also enhance its visual aspect, assisting in bringing the droplet theme to life even more.

RELATED READING: In Person With Ricardo Guadalupe, Former CEO & Honourary President Of Hublot

Each half of the Arsham Droplet is crafted by the engineers at Hublot’s Nyon manufacture, and placed perfectly on either side of the inner skeleton and movement to create the overall shape. Sapphire is one of the hardest substances to work with, and somehow, Hublot has perfected it. Around the outside is a thin band of titanium, with a light “Arsham Green” rubber inset to assist when holding the watch. The last thing you want is this to slip through the fingers and become a very expensive insurance claim! The ‘H’ styled Hublot screws hold all this in place.

The dial is fully skeletonised to show off the Meca-10 movement. The hour markers with Super-LumiNova are done in Arsham Green varnish and are attached to the colour-matched outer track below the rehaut. At the top of this sits the Arsham logo, and the hands along with the small seconds at 9 o’clock are also done the same semi-matte varnished green. This gives off a fresh colourful vibe, and if this was a wristwatch, I’d be saying here that it just may be a great summer watch.

The watch has Hublot’s one-click system, which makes it easy to change the way you use the watch. The chains for the pocket watch or pendant can be easily interchanged with the click of a button, or with the desk clock mount, the watch can be attached to this. This fact means that you can have the Arsham Droplet on you all day, and when you get home, unclip it and place it in the dock for the table clock.

The chains for the pocket watch and the pendant are also made from full titanium with a combination of polished and microblasted areas. This keeps the weight of the Arsham Droplet down, as the piece itself has weight to it thanks to the full sapphire crystal construction, so the last thing you want when wearing it around the neck as a pendant is a full steel chain to add more weight.

How It Wears (no, wait) Usability & Versatility

This is the part where I usually talk about how the watch wears. The comfort on the wrist, the way the strap feels, how the watch sits on the wrist, the size in comparison to the wearer etc. But, this isn’t a wristwatch, so most of that is a little redundant. So instead, I’ll talk about how it’s used and its functionality, as this piece has been designed for those who want a statement piece of sorts, and one that is totally different from the crowd and used in a (now in modern-day) unconventional way.

Over 100 years ago, pocket watches were the norm. To tell the time, a gentleman would pull out his pocket watch from his fob pocket, which was attached to a chain, flip open the watch, glance at the time and then close it and put it securely back in. Nowadays, we have watches on our wrists, and replacing the pocket watch’s functionality is a phone. At least for most people anyway. So when you see a brand do something left of centre, like the Arsham Droplet, you know it will be appealing to a certain type of person. As we have stated many times before, Hublot is not a brand for everyone, and with the Arhsam Droplet, this is very much the case. There are also only 99 pieces, so by virtue, this is a piece for only 99 people in the world.

As I alluded to earlier in the article, the Arsham Droplet has been designed in a certain way, mimicking the flow of liquid in nature, but also to conform to the contours of the hand. It isn’t something you think about much until you hold the Arsham Droplet. The green rubber inset around the edge makes it non-slip, important when taking it out of the pocket to check the time, and the curvature of the piece itself means that no matter if you are left or right-handed, it fits. While it is larger than most wristwatches, coming in at 73.2mm in length x 52.6 mm wide x 22.5 mm thick, by our normal standards this would be a giant watch. But, it isn’t a wristwatch, so all that matters is this is easy to read, easy to hold, and will fit in a pocket, which it does!

My one small criticism of this piece is the way the crystal shape distors the light, especially around the lower dial. This in on way impedes reading the time, but it does make the lower part of the dial around the power reserve indicator and balance look slightly off. Depening on the angle you view it from, it will either look right, or like those fun-house mirrors. In person, as you can move the watch around in your hand, this becomes less of a problem when compared to still images, but depending no how you look at it, (no pun intended) you’ll either love the quirkiness of it, or you wont.

Now I’m not one for modelling a pendant, it’s not quite my style nor would I do this piece justice as I’m not super fashionable, but Daniel Arsham is, so I’ll show how he wears the piece, as it should be worn. I will say this though, if you’re not used to wearing heavier jewellery around the neck, this piece may not be for you as I mentioned earlier, there is a little bit of weight to the watch. I feel you would only wear it this way sparingly, as a statement piece of artistic jewellery to an event. I’ve been to plenty of events over the years with celebrities, influencers, and those who are into fashion and are at the pointy end of fashion who I can see wearing this easily. But for me, I’d rather have this as a pocket watch, and use it to tell a story, a conversation starter that I can pull out and show people.

The third way of using this piece is as the desk clock. Hublot has come up with an ingenious way of doing this, by detaching the Droplet from the chain and docking it into the clock via the One-Click system. However, the watch itself isn’t large enough to be used as a proper clock, so the mount and display itself is a large magnifying glass, designed with a similar style to the Arsham Droplet itself.

With a titanium base, and two “bubbles” one acting as the crystal clear magnifying glass to show the time, the other in a translucent green to match the Arsham Green on the watch, the clock set up is something unique, and again, a statement piece for the home or office. I’ve always been fascinated by unique and interesting desk clocks, and I would love to have a carefully selected desk clock in my house one day. That is as soon as my kids are a little older and my fear of them taking it and playing with it, thus ending in tragedy subsides. that aside, I could quite easily see the Arsham Droplet as a clock in my house, taking pride of place in the living area for all to see. For me, this is how it would spend most of its time, but it would be undocked occasionally and shown off at events, as per my previous comments about wearing it.

The Movement

The movement is on full display with the Arsham Droplet, which is kind of the point here being a sapphire watch. For this, Hublot has chosen the in-house designed and manufactured HUB1201 Meca-10 movement to power the watch. To me, this makes complete sense as you are not wearing it on your wrist, so you need a manual wind movement, and when it comes to Hublot, there is no better manual winding movement than the Meca-10. You can power it up, and then not have to worry about it for a full 10 days. While it would be great to see more of the movement through the reverse side of the Arsham Droplet, there is Daniel Arsham’s logo on the back in the Arsham Green and black, so this does obscure it somewhat. Personally I would have loved to have seen the Meca-10 on full display with the three bridges being visible – a hallmark of the Meca-10 movement which resembles Meccano sets.

For those that are not aware of how the Meca-10 movement was developed, or why, you can read about it in a lot more detail in our Watch Education Article on the Movements Of Hublot. For those who want the abridged version, then the inspiration for Hublot to create the Meca-10 began when the designers looked back into their childhood days (remember those?) when imagination was limitless.  As a homage to all those who spent hours designing and building with Meccano, a more sophisticated version of Lego Technic that includes plates, wheels, and gears, Hublot created the Meca-10 range. So groundbreaking at the time, the Meca-10 won the Red Dot Award back in 2017 for innovation, so it doesn’t stand as a testament to Hublot’s movement capabilities.

RELATED READING: Hands-On With The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic Blue

The HUB1201 Meca-10 is a hand-wound movement, with a full 10-day, or 240-hour power reserve stemming from two barrels inside the movement, both delivering 5 days’ worth of power to the watch. Unlike most watches, those with the Meca-10 are best viewed from the front, as this is where it is on full show. The genius of the Meca-10 is the way it both distributes the power, but more so, the way it lets the user know how much power it has left. This is shown on the two discs at the front, with the smaller wheel at 6 o’clock telling you how many days power if left, then on the larger disc at 3 o’clock, the oval-shaped window shows starts to go white when the power reserve is down to 48 hours, a little like your car when almost empty.

The other unique factor with the Meca-10 is the way it drives the power reserve indicators. The top barrel in the movement drives the rack and pinion mechanism, which can be seen just behind the Hublot logo at 12 o’clock, this in turn drives the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Another throwback to Meccano sets and the way the gears and mechanisms all come together to make the models work.

Final Thoughts

The Arsham Droplet is unique. It is quirky and serious at the same time, embodying everything that Hublot does best – meticulously crafted and shaped sapphire, an award winning in-house movement, and collaborating with an artist to design and develop a piece that other wont, or can’t! In addition to this, they have gone outside the box to develop a watch that is to be worn and admired, but not on the wrist.

This last statement is the reason why I said at the start, this piece is a little bit of a contradiction in the fact that it is versatile in it’s own nature, but at the same time it is not. However, this is not a bad thing at all, it’s just how you approach a watch like the Arsham Droplet. If you fully appreciate what Hublot and Daniel Arsham have come up with, then you’ll love it. If you fail to see the concept, then you’ll not, but then this is not a pice that is for you, or for everyone.

The price point will also make most of us think twice about it – at A$132,000 it’s definitely a piece for those who have means, and by virtue of the watch itself, as well as the price, it will be a piece for collectors who are looking for something new that is nothing like they have in their current collection. If I had the coin for this, would it be on my radar? Short answer – Yes, as it would look great in my house on display for me to admire, and for anyone who came over, a great talking point. I also fully appreciate how this piece is made, and what it represents, not just from a timekeeping perspective, but as a piece of functional and wearable art. Not to mention bringing it out at watch get togethers would be fun and something very different from the stock standard pieces you always see.

Reference: 916.NX.5202.NK – MP-16, limited to 99 pieces

Specification:

• Dimensions: 73.2mm in length x 52.6 mm wide x 22.5 mm thick
• Case Material: Polished Sapphire with anti-reflective coating, inner titanium skeleton with outer band made from titanium and rubber
• Dial: Skeleton dial in grey PVD with matte varnish Arsham Green hands, hour makers and small seconds. 10-day power reserve and low power indicator at 3 and 6 o’clock
• Movement: HUB1201 Manufacture Manual-winding Skeleton Power Reserve Movement. Beating at 21,600 VpH / 3Hz and pivoting on 24 Jewels
• Case-Back: Microblasted M3 Titanium Skeleton, engraved and printed Arsham Green logo
• Water resistance: 30 metres / 3ATM
• Power reserve: 10 Days / 240 hours
• Necklace: Full Titanium with Polished Links / Shiny Microblasted Clasp and One-click Tip
• Pocket Chain: Full Titanium with Polished Links / Shiny Microblasted Carabiner and One-click Tip
• Table Stand: Microblasted Titanium / Polished Green Arsham Colour Sphere and Mineral Magnifying Glass

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $132,200

Availability: Available through Hublot Boutiques or enquire online at Hublot.com

IWC Schaffhausen is bringing, most likely, the last update to the Ingenieur collection this year with a new blue dial variant for the Automatic 40 timepiece. IWC Schaffhausen currently has a variety of colours available in the Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection; however, adding the blue dial variant finishes off the three standard colour offerings of black, white and blue dials. In addition to these colours, IWC Schaffhausen also offers a beautiful and unique aqua dial and a grey dial.

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^{The all-new IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 Blue Dial}

The IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur has quite the heritage too. For those new to the world of horology, the Ingenieur represented a shift in watchmaking for the luxury Swiss watchmaker when it was first released in 1955. IWC Schaffhausen introduced the Ingenieur as a response to the increasing magnetic fields in everyday life, particularly in professional environments. To combat this, The Ingenieur featured an anti-magnetic soft iron inner cage, which protected the movement from magnetic interference. This was a crucial innovation especially for engineers and scientists, now allowing them to wear timepieces in their professional environment.

Unlike most heritage lines in the world of watchmaking, the original design of the Ingenieur didn’t carry through the ages. In 1976, the Ingenieur collection went through a major update and facelift. The famous watch designer Gerald Genta took hold of the Ingenieur and gave it his magic touch, just like he had done with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak a couple of years prior. When you look at the two designs, you will certainly see similarities between the Royal Oak and the Ingenieur, from the tonneau-shaped case to the bezel with screws design to the integrated bracelet. From this point forward, both these models will go on to be iconic in the world of horology and become signature timepieces for both brands.

Related Reading: Masters of Time: The IWC Journey Through the Ages

This latest version of the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 (Ref. IW328907) comes with a 40mm case, bezel and integrated H-link bracelet that is all made from stainless steel. IWC Schaffhausen have re-engineered the case to be more ergonomic to ensure excellent wearability. To enhance the visual aesthetics of the timepiece, IWC Schaffhausen has given the Ingenieur Automatic 40 multiple different finishes.

The bezel itself features a brushed finish on the surface, while the side profile has a polished finish. The case then features vertical brushed finishing (in the opposite direction to the bezel), and like the bezel, the chamfered edges have a polished finish. Finally, the bracelet follows suit, with the surface being a vertical brushed finish to match the case, while the chamfered edges are polished. This ultimately creates a timepiece that plays beautifully with light. The varied finishing of brushed to polish also lets the polished surfaces stand out more, creating an elegant timepiece.

The dial of this latest Ingenieur Automatic 40 keeps the signature and characteristic “grid” structure dial, which consists of small lines and squares stamped into a soft iron base using high pressure. Afterwards, IWC Schaffhausen applies this gorgeous new blue colour with a PVD coating. The rhodium-plated baton hands and the applied metal marker are all filled with Super-LumiNova^® luminescent mass to ensure perfect legibility in all lighting conditions.

The engine inside powering this new Ingenieur Automatic 40 is the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre movement. This self-winding automatic movement features an efficient double-pawl winding system. What is a double-pawl winding system, you may ask? Well, simply put, it’s a system that uses two pawls (levers) instead of one to engage with the ratchet wheel or similar. This effectively ensures a smoother operation and increases reliability since both pawls/levers can contribute to winding the mainspring. The 32111 calibre movement with this system can offer up to 5 days (120 hours) of power reserve.

Final Thoughts

If you are after a more “affordable” dress watch that has the looks, mechanical prowess and a rich history, then the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 is an ideal candidate. The timepiece fits well on the wrist thanks to the integrated H-link bracelet. The design is also iconic; the true work of Gerald Genta is still kept intact after almost 50 years, bar resizing of the timepiece to suit modern standards. If you want a full hands-on review of this model besides the dial colour change, Mario has done a deep dive into the aqua-coloured IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 released during Watches & Wonders this year.

Related Reading: REVIEW: Hands On With The IWC Ingenieur

This new blue dial variant brings a classic colour that stands out beautifully. Like the aqua dial version, the blue has a sunburst finish, which gives the dial different shades of blue depending on the light angle. The rhodium-plated hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova, which not only aids in nighttime visibility but also provides a stark contrast against the blue dial during the daytime. The IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 reflects bold aesthetic codes and has high ergonomics, wearability, finishing and movement technology standards while also now finished in an attractive blue dial.

Reference: IW328907

Specifications

• Case Size: 40mm case diameter x 10.7mm thickness
• Case Material: Brushed and polished Stainless steel
• Dial: Blue with a checkerboard pattern
• Water resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
• Movement: Automatic Cal. 32111 movement
• Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
• Power reserve: 120 hours (5 days)
• Bracelet: Stainless steel with sequential butterfly folding clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$17,300

Availability: Available now from IWC Boutiques or online at IWC.com

If there’s one thing that Perrelet is known for, it’s their Turbine collection. The unmistakable watch with 12 spinning blades activated by the wrist’s movement gives the wearer a fun piece to play with. And they are fun, take it from me. What seems as a non-serious watch, has in fact got serious engineering behind it, both on the dial side and in the back, and for those who aren’t aware of the brand’s story and history, Perrelet also has this to rival some of the industry’s biggest names.

RELATED READING: IN PERSON – With Hugo Lesizza, Brand Director For Perrelet

If you’ve been following us for a while, you will have seen some of our coverage of Perrelet’s releases at Geneva Watch Days 2024, and also our interview with Hugo Lesizza, Brand Director for Perrelet. In all honesty, the brand doesn’t get as much attention as they maybe deserve, at least out here in Australia. Perhaps it is because of the Turbine and its whimsical nature, perhaps like a lot of brands, they’re not marketing themselves as much as the big brands. Either way, all of us have Perrelet, or rather, Abraham-Louis Perrelet, to thank for the automatic winding mechanism most of the industry’s automatic movements are based on today, which he came up with when the brand was founded in 1777. This makes Perrelet one of the oldest watch brands in the world, up there with the likes of Vacheron Constantin, Brequet, and Blancpain etc.

And speaking of Geneva Watch Days, we had the privilege of shooting some of Perrelet’s unreleased pieces whilst there talking to Hugo, and we can finally showcase these in the metal today – the new Red, Yellow and Khaki turbines. Perrelet has also released a limited edition rainbow Turbine to coincide with the trio of colours, limited to 99 pieces. Whilst we would have loved to have shot this as well, it wasn’t yet ready. Nonetheless, we have the press shots regardless, but in our eyes, the other colours look just as good!

RELATED READING: Perrelet Unveils Two New Turbine Ice Blue Timepieces At Geneva Watch Days

The three new colourways are done in the 44mm polycarbonate and carbon fibre case, the same as the Ice Blue released at Geneva Watch Days. While this sounds a little daunting size-wise, the black slims the case down, and even as I was writing this, I did a double take on the case sizing as these definitely don’t wear like a 44mm case at almost 14mm thick. In fact I did go back to double check this was indeed the case!

The case itself is made in polycarbonate and carbon fibre, which gives the watches a lightness to them and the bezel is steel, but with a matte black PVD coating. The main star of the show is the dial, with the 12 lightweight aluminium blades that spin on a ball bearing and rotor system, which took Perrelet quite some time to perfect and get that perfect silky smooth spinning effect.

“Basically, the product team in charge took the inspiration for the turbine from the turbines on the jet engine, which was the initial inspiration for the development of the turbine. It took time to develop it because as you know in the watch-making industry you have constraints, which is not easy to handle, and with the turbine, we had to get the balance and spinning just right, even down to developing the ball bearings it spins on!”

Hugo Lesizza, Brand Director for Perrelet

Each watch comes with a colour-matching alligator leather strap, which has a great feel on the wrist and a sheen to it that really enhances the colour of each watch, not to mention the wrist presence. The strap drops away well thanks to the highly angled lugs, so the 44mm case dimensions are not in person what they are on paper. As you can see from the image below, this is 44mm on my 17.5cm wrist, but in my opinion, wears a couple of millimeters smaller at least.

In addition to the new trio, Perrelet has introduced a special limited edition Sunset piece, with 99 units available. This piece takes the best of their colours, and blends them all into one unique dial variant which is designed to mimic the colours at sunset – from the darker hues in the sky above, to the lighter oranges and reds towards the horizon where the setting sun fades. And looking at the dial, you can certainly see where they’ve got their inspiration from.

The Sunset edition keeps the same size and specs as the red, yellow and khaki versions, with the major exception of the strap. Rather than colour-matching the dial, which, lets face it, would have been a stretch (although other brands have done this to an extent) Perrelet have opted to keep the alligator strap black, for a more subtle look. This makes the dial stand out just that little more with a shroud of black for the gradient sunset colour to pop out of.

Inside all these watches is the in-house manufactured self-winding calibre P-331-MH. This is a full in-house movement via Perrelet’s movement manufacture, Soprod. Beating at 4Hz, 28,800 VpH and pivoting on 25 jewels, it is COSC certified and has a 42-hour power reserve. This is probably on the lower side of the power reserved spectrum, but, at this price point, I don’t think you can complain all that much.

Initial Thoughts

Perrelet is one brand that doesn’t come to mind all that much, and that is a shame as there are some real watch-making credentials within the brand, and while there is a rich history there, the brand has taken a more fun approach to watches with the introduction of the turbine on the dial. This has probably put off more serious watch enthusiast if I’m honest, and is a party trick that may not be for everyone. But that is ok, as Perrelet only make about 2,500 watches a year, then not everyone will be able to buy them, even if they wanted to. And that makes them unique in the watch world, which is something I like.

Sameera covered the Ice Blue releases at Geneva Watch Days, and he personally felt the smaller 41mm Titanium model was better, with less colour on the dial, whereas the 44mm Carbon has the Ice Blue outer track below the rehaut as well. With this release, Perrelet has taken the best of both worlds here and made the numeral track in the black, with just the small rehaut in the red, yellow and khaki, and Sunset. It is less overwhelming, but without taking away from the colour of the dial. All in all, these are fun pieces to add to a collection, and for those that want to walk on the not too serious side of watch collecting!

References:

• Turbine Carbon Red –Ref. A4065/6
• Turbine Carbon Yellow –Ref. A4065/7
• Turbine Carbon Khaki – Ref. A4065/8
• Turbine Sunset (99-piece limited edition) – Ref. A4065/S7

Specifications:

• Case Size: 44mm
• Case Thickness: 13.82mm
• Case Material: Case body in polycarbonate and carbon fibre, flat steel bezel in stainless steel with black matt PVD coating.
• Dial: Yellow, Red, Khaki or Sunset with the depiction of the turbine achieved through the polished/satin finish. 12 black anodised aluminium turbine blades with five tungsten counterweights. Colour matching minute flange with black hour track with a mix of luminescent white Arabic, Roman numerals and indices.
• Movement: In-house manufacture self-winding calibre P-331-MH beating at 28,800 VpH (4hZ)
• Power reserve: 42hrs
• Water resistance: 10 bar (100 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment on the dial
• Case back: Case back in stainless steel with black PVD coating and sapphire glass porthole
• Strap: Colour-matched calf leather strap with an alligator pattern and rubber lining. Folding clasp in black PVD stainless steel embellished with the Perrelet logo

International Recommended Retail Pricing: Red, Yellow and Khaki – CHF 4,980. Sunset Limited Edition – CHF 5,200

Availability: Enquire online at www.perrelet.com

Patek Philippe continues to dominate the auction world, with the latest new record for the highest-selling Nautilus timepiece. Earlier this week at the 30th anniversary of the Children Action auction in Geneva, Patek Philippe’s 5711 Nautilus sold for a record amount of US$7.67 million. This wasn’t just a standard Nautilus either, as it was intricately decorated with Maori-style engraving.

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Another factor that would’ve helped push the 5711 Nautilus to new record prices is that Patek Phillipe discontinued the model a few years back. The final “farewell” piece was the 5711 in Tiffany Blue dial with the Tiffany Blue stamp released in 2021. This means that three years after its retirement, it has made a comeback one last time to support a very worthy cause.

To give a sense as to how well this Nautilus did during the auction, the previous record for a Nautilus being sold in auction was the Tiffany Blue 5711, which sold for US$6.2 million. As this was a farewell piece for the 5711 line, it garnered global attention, driving the final price to astronomical heights.

The Nautilus isn’t the only model from Patek Philippe that’s done incredibly well during auction either. Patek Philippe holds the record for the most expensive watch (and wristwatch) sold at auction. On November 9th, 2019, in Geneva, Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 sold for an astonishing US$31.19 million during a Christie’s auction.

This was then followed by 10th edition of Only Watch held this year, where Patek Philippe “chose to highlight its know-how in the field of striking watches by reinterpreting the Grande Sonnerie reference 6301, an exceptional watch launched in 2020, combining a Grande Sonnerie (the “grail” of acoustic functions), a Petite Sonnerie and a minute repeater.” Only Watch is a biennial charity auction of luxury watches where the brands present a unique “one-off” timepiece for auction. This is where they can experiment and create something truly unique, or in the case of Patek Philippe, truly showcase the brand’s expertise of ultra-fine craftsmanship advanced complications.

While the Children Action auction doesn’t require brands to present unique watches, Patek Philippe still went the extra mile to make something special. The Children Action auction is an annual charity event organised by the Swiss foundation Children Action, which supports disadvantaged children worldwide. Patek Philippe has been supporting this auction since 2005, creating timepiece to help this great charity. During the Children Action auction in 2022. held in Geneva by Philipps, Bacs & Russo, Patek Philippe once again presented a unique timepiece that once again sold for a record price. The timepiece was the first ever titanium version of the perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 5270T-010, selling for a whopping 9.7 million Swiss francs.

For this year’s Children Action auction, Patek Philippe chose to resurrect the Nautilus in steel, reference 5711/1500A, accompanied by a pair of cuff links that have the same Maori-inspired engraving. Patek Philippe chose to keep this unique Nautilus timepiece in steel as the material has a special place in the collection. The original Nautilus was presented in stainless steel, which at the time of its unveiling went against most traditional watchmaking, where brands were releasing luxury sports timepieces in precious metals.

All proceeds from the sale of the most expensive Patek Philippe Nautilus will help fund support programs focused on health, education, and psychological well-being through Children Action, ensuring that the auction’s success translates into meaningful impact for children in need.