It’s Christmas time, and that means the man in the red suit will be coming our way soon. We’ve assembled a range of gift guides this year to help you pick something for that special someone, even if that someone is yourself! Today, we’ve got dress watches covered!

The end of the year can mean many things: the closing of a chapter, the perfect time for R&R, or perhaps the anticipation of gathering around with friends, family and loved ones for the holidays! However, it also means that Christmas is just around the corner, and with Black Friday having come and gone, time is ticking. Everyone not caught up in the shopping mania of weeks past are now scrambling for gift ideas before the 25th finally arrives!

Should the special someone (or someones!) in your life have a head for horology, then a beautiful new watch would be the perfect gift for them! If you’ve not seen them already, we’ve our Christmas Gift Guide to Chronographs as well as our Christmas Gift Guide to Square Watches on the site – make sure you check them out after this.  I’ve decided to tackle the holiday season with a more traditional approach: dress watches. Whether it be a black tie gala, a formal business outing, a romantic evening, or a graduation, a dress watch finds comfort in minimalism and extravagance in subtlety. It’s not something you’d traditionally wear every day, but you’ll be sure glad it’s there when you need to dress to impress. 

The resurgence of the watch industry also means the resurgence of the dress watch, so watch brands the world over have been under the pump this year, creating some of the best dress offers we’ve seen in a long time. Releases are plentiful, and we understand that it can get extremely confusing, which is why I’m here to help you out. So, enough blabbering, and read on as I count up a variety of beautifully understated dress pieces that are sure to stun at any price point!

Timex: 1960s Marlin Series

At the lower end of the price bracket is the Timex 1960s Marlin. The unique retro design of these timepieces, with slim Arabic numerals for the quarter indexes, presents a fascinating yet fairly boujee aesthetic for the money. It’s for this reason, combined with the reliability of their automatic Miyota movement, that makes watch fans everywhere revere this series within Timex’s Marlin collection. Standing at 40mm case diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug (length), and 13mm thick, the 1960s Marlin comes in either sunray-brushed salmon, green or blue dial colours, as well as a more demure black with gilded accents. For those pursuing elegance on a budget, I couldn’t recommend them enough – especially since you can get 15% off your first purchase!

• References:  TW2V44600 (Green), TW2W33900 (Black/Gilt), TW2V44500 (Blue), TW2W33800 (Salmon)
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$499.95

For More Information, Visit Timex.com

Seiko: Presage Cocktail Time ‘Mockingbird’/‘Cosmopolitan’

Really, how could I start off a list with a value proposition and not include the kings themselves? Seiko is to watches what Toyota is to cars, and their watches are no exception to the rule. One of my favourite Seiko series to date is the Cocktail Time collection, which has various coloured dials that represent different cocktails made at a bar. For the price you pay, you get an incredibly attractive timepiece that I find can be worn for practically any occasion, thanks to the reputable reliability of Seiko themselves. My recommendations would be the deep green SRPD37J1 ‘Mockingbird’ for men, or perhaps the light pink SRP839J1 ‘Cosmopolitan’ for women – but there are so many different versions, I know you’ll find one you like even more.

• References: SRPD37J1 (Mockingbird), SRP839J1 (Cosmopolitan)
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$699 (Mockingbird), AU$695 (Cosmopolitan)

For More Information, Visit here for the ‘Mockingbird,’ or here for the ‘Cosmopolitan’

Tissot: Chemin des Tourelles Blue

The first Swiss watch to make an appearance here is the always-popular Tissot with the Chemin de Tourelles collection. Initially released just last year, they have taken the affordable dress watch world by storm, thanks to a value-driven, beautifully finished package.

Related Reading: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review

With a whopping 80-hour power reserve, this is a watch that can worn on the daily as well as for special occasions. Like the Seiko Cocktail Time, variations are aplenty – and with so many male & female versions to choose from, it’s impossible to lose! I prefer the blue variant pictured above – but if you need a second opinion, check out the review Matt did last year!

• Reference: T139.807.16.041.00
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$1,240

For More Information, Visit Tissot.com 

MIDO: Baroncelli Chronometer Silicon Gent

While the Mido Commander collection is more well-known as part of this Swiss brand’s lineup, the Mido Baroncelli is perhaps more representative of the dress watch genre as a whole. This particular reference is especially stunning, as its dark anthracite dial carries a unique finishing along with it.

Related Reading: Certifications Explained – What Chronometer Actually Means?

The dressy nature of this watch is only furthered by the introduction of rose gold on the hands and indexes – a fitting and elegant addition to this incredible sleeper hit. For those horologically inclined, the added price tag also introduces COSC Chronometer certification, meaning that this watch is a beautiful as it is remarkably accurate.

• Reference: M027.408.16.061.00
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$1,975

For More Information, Visit Mido.com

Raymond Weil: Millesime Silver

Okay – if you’ve been reading my stuff for a while now, you must be getting sick of seeing me glaze this watch to no end. Counterpoint: I don’t care, because this watch absolutely deserves it! Ignoring the absolute comeback tour that Raymond Weil is currently on, the Millesime’s addition to their lineup was both unexpected and welcome.

Related Reading: Hands On With The Raymond Weil Millesime

So welcome, in fact, that they won a GPHG Award for their efforts – the equivalent of an Oscar for watches. At a middling price point, this gorgeous watch now comes with an endless amount of colours, sizes, and complications, perfect for celebrating any special occasion. But don’t just take it from me now, take it from me in the past, when I reviewed the award winner earlier this year:

• Reference: 2930-ST-65001 
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$3,800

For More Information, Visit RaymondWeil.com

Frederique Constant: Classics Premiere

Frederique Constant, often relegated to the background of the watch industry, has been putting exceptional work into their timepieces as of late. This Classic Premiere watch is more than enough proof to verify that claim, as it is as mechanically sound as it is aesthetically. The watch is reasonably sized at 38.5mm, and features Roman Numerals for each quarter index, as well as apple-style hands reminiscent of Cartier. The movement inside – a La Joux-Perret G100 – sports a satisfying 68-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to carry on long after the party is over. For those that love a contemporary take on a tried-and-true classic, this one is surely for them. 

• Reference: FC-301N3B6
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$3,950

For More Information, Visit FrederiqueConstant.com

Longines: Flagship Heritage Moonphase Green

We at WatchAdvice are pretty familiar with Longines, and we know that they are far and away one of the most consistent watch brands of all time. It may not surprise, you, then, that their standards, as high as they are, have always been consistent – a sentiment especially true thanks to the Flagship Heritage Moonphase series. The above rendition, decked out in green, is a delicate new take on the Flagship Heritage collection, and seriously proves why Longines deserves all the flowers it has received and more. Sure, the watch may not have a display case back like some of the others on this list, but if you took one look at the enamelled 18k gold medallion, you wouldn’t be complaining.

• Reference: L48154022
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$5,100

For More Information, visit Longines.com 

Cartier: Santos Dumont Large Black Lacquer

Speaking of familiarity, the Cartier Santos Dumont is a collection that we have reviewed on several occasions (2020 and 2024 respectively). While both of the watches mentioned here were stunning in their own right, they both pale in comparison to the demure black lacquer rendition. This version carries with it an understated aura that is matched by a scant few and, compounded with the reputation of the brand name, has been elevated to a legendary status. It’s why we’ve reviewed it so many times – and quite frankly, I can’t wait until I review it again!

• Reference: WSSA0046
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$9,850

For More Information, Visit Cartier.com.au

IWC: Portugieser Horizon Blue

At first glance, it’s easy to write IWC off as yet another aviation-focussed watch brand. Yet, the delicately crafted yet bold Portugieser lineup stands out in contrast to the primarily utilitarian designs the Schaffhausen brand is known for. Available in all sorts of shapes and sizes, my pick of the bunch would have to be the new 40mm in Horizon Blue.

Related Reading: Legacy Of Iconic Watch Designs – The Portugieser

It effectively ticks all the boxes of what a quintessential dress watch should be: simple, yet ruthlessly engineered; subtle, yet extravagantly finished, yet obvious to those in the know. By all accounts, the Portugieser is the modern man’s dress watch. 

• Reference: IW358402
• Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$28,000

For More Information, Visit IWC.com

A. Lange & Sӧhne: Saxonia Thin

You just can’t beat this. The best is – and always has been – German, thanks in part to the monumental effort that A. Lange & Sӧhne go to make the most excellent wristwatches in the world. This piece, standing at a mere 7.5mm thickness with a 39mm case diameter, represents the very best of the dress watch genre. Decked out in 750 white gold, with an aventurine dial mimicking the stars above, this rendition of the Saxonia Thin is as crazy as you can get whilst still exercising restraint. Remember, a dress watch isn’t built to grab attention but instead to attract it, and when you take one look at this you will be attracted for sure.

• Reference: 205.086
• International Recommended Retail Price: Price upon request

For More Information, Visit ALange-Soehne.com

When watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey came together for the first time in 1992, little did the watch world know that they were soon in for the ride of their lives. Founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 2004, the titular brand is the epitome of horological superiority. Just two decades into the game has seen the independent brand ascend to the very top of haute horlogerie, effectively landing them in 50th place in Morgan Stanley’s highest-grossing watch brands of 2023. 

That might not sound like a high spot at first, but their creativity and engineering prowess saw them sell just 255 watches, totalling CHF 50 million for the entire year.  That’s an average transaction value of CHF 196,078! By contrast, Bell & Ross in 49th sold 13,600 watches to get to the same point, averaging CHF 3,676 per watch. Never content to rest on their laurels, however, Greubel Forsey has opted to celebrate this momentous 20th birthday with the introduction of their 10th ‘Fundamental Invention,’ by way of the new Nano Foudroyante EWT. This is the first chronograph watch – and the first flying tourbillon – ever made by the brand, but by no means is it easy to comprehend at first glance, even if you have read our article on Chronograph watches.

That won’t stop me from trying, though! The Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT contains a highly complex and rare complication in the watchmaking industry: a seconde foudroyante, or ‘lightning seconds.’ For most mechanical watches, the second hand appears to move smoothly, but it actually jumps in fractional increments, commonly called ‘beats,’ to enhance overall time-telling precision. In this case, the Nano Foudroyante EWT runs at 6 beats per second, which is around 21,600VpH (Vibrations per Hour/Beats per Hour) or 3Hz. This means that it can tell time accurately to one-sixth of a second.

The seconde foudroyante is a visual representation of such, mounted atop the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s flying tourbillon. Simply explained, a seconde foudroyante complication displays each sixth of a second as it occurs, allowing for an incredibly precise reading of time. With the chronograph being the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s primary complication, the seconde foudroyante in theory permits the most accurate reading of elapsed time. 

Related Reading: The Art Of Complications – The Tourbillon

The downside to a seconde foudroyante is that it consumes a ton of juice to operate. Even traditional chronographs with monstrous power reserves like TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 movement falter at the sight of one. If you’re Jaeger-LeCoultre, then the most practical solution would be to use a completely separate barrel to operate the complication, as per the Duometre system present in, for example, this JLC Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual released at Watches and Wonders 2024. However, Greubel Forsey’s MO isn’t in maximisation, but in minimisation. Ever the specialists in nanomechanics, their engineers discovered a method of reducing the seconde foudroyante’s impact on the power reserve.

Where a traditional seconde foudroyante consumes 30μJ (microjoules) per beat, the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s mechanism has reduced it to a mere 16 nJ (nanojoules) per beat – requiring 1,800 times less energy than the original. In layman’s terms, imagine if a Dodge Hellcat SRT, which averages 3–4 miles per gallon at full acceleration (199mph/320kph), was modified to maintain 3,600mpg whilst sacrificing absolutely nothing. That’s 38 times more than the Toyota Prius’ world record-breaking 95mpg!

It’s for this reason that, instead of keeping it synced with the monopusher flyback chronograph, Greubel Forsey has elected to keep the Nano Foudroyante EWT running perpetually with the tourbillon. Yes, it still eats into the power reserve – only lasting 24 hours on a full wind – but it serves more as a proof of concept than anything. It just goes to show that, despite how anachronistic mechanical watchmaking may be, there are still rules to be made, and many more yet to be broken!

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As always, though, the mechanics are only half of the story, and Greubel Forsey’s design chops shine through despite the Nano Foudroyante EWT’s simplistic layout. Standing at a scant 37.9mm with a 10.49mm thickness, this timepiece comprises a centre case of 18k white gold sandwiched between a tantalum bezel and case back. The dial is textured white gold, with the seconde foudroyante affixed to the flying tourbillon at 5:30. The watch also consists of a small seconds counter at 7:30 and a 60-minute register at 9 o’clock. Finally, the chronograph function is operated by the 2 o’clock monopusher, with the flyback system built into the crown itself.

Initial Thoughts

I knew that unpacking this watch would mean that I would go onto some serious technobabble, but the Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT deserves it. In fact, all watches from Greubel Forsey deserve this treatment, as they are all examples of micro (and in this case, nano) mechanical engineering done to the highest degree.

I have said ad nauseam that we still have plenty more to learn in the realms of mechanical watchmaking, and the Nano Foudroyante EWT is absolutely no exception. To integrate such a rare and complex mechanism into a wristwatch is a challenge in of itself; To make a dramatically improved version, whilst maintaining a modest set of dimensions, seems damn near impossible. But of course, if you’re either Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, or any of the incredible engineers and craftsmen under their employ, the impossible is accomplished on a daily basis. That’s how it’s been at Greubel Forsey over the last 20 years, and that’s surely how it will remain for the next 20.

Reference: Nano Foudroyante EWT

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 37.9mm case diameter x 10.49mm thickness
• Case Material: Tantalum & 18k white gold
• Dial: Textured white gold
• Movement: Manual wind Greubel Forsey 10th Fundamental Invention with flyback chronograph, tourbillon, & seconde foudroyante
• Power Reserve: 24h
• Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
• Strap: Non-animal material strap with white gold pin buckle 

International RRP: CHF 463,000

Availability: Limited to 11 pieces. Visit GreubelForsey.com to find out more.

It’s the end of the year already! Well, it certainly doesn’t feel like it, to be honest. My mind kind of clocked out in July, so I’ve had precious little time to process this month if any at all. TAG Heuer shares a similar sentiment about the year gone by, as they seem to be ignoring any pretences of a relaxation period by revving up yet another release with longstanding partner, Oracle Red Bull Racing. 

Since 1976, Red Bull has made significant strides to transform their image. From Krating Daeng, the essential pick-me-up for truck drivers and jet lag, to the ‘cool people doing cool things (that are usually extremely dangerous)’ multinational icon, the rise of the now-culturally inescapable Red Bull brand is something worthy of admiration. No other energy drink brand has ever gone as far as they have to sponsor some of humanity’s greatest sporting feats, and it was only a matter of time before they entered the illustrious world of motorsports. They would do just that in 2004, when they became a sponsor of Formula 1, one of the most televised motorsports of all time. It wouldn’t take long for them to take advantage of the situation, though, as they penned a deal to replace the Jaguar Formula One team, effectively joining the organisation as the year closed.

In the wake of 6 Constructor’s Championships, 8 Driver’s Championships (half of which now belong to the venerable Max Verstappen), 122 race victories and 99 fastest laps, the Oracle Red Bull Racing Team has clearly gone from fledgling to legend. This year, they ring in the 20th anniversary of their union with Formula One, which of course needs an appropriate celebrant for the occasion. Who better to ask, perhaps, than TAG Heuer? The La Chaux-du-Fonds brand likely knows motorsport better than anyone out there: The brand formerly known as Heuer became the first ever non-automotive sponsor in Formula 1 in the early seventies, and even became the official timekeeper of the Oracle Red Bull Racing team in 2016 – the same year as Verstappen.

So while parent company LVMH is busy signing a 10-year deal to sponsor Formula 1, TAG Heuer has set aside appropriate time to properly commemorate the innumerable achievements they shared alongside the Oracle Red Bull Racing team. Of course, the only fitting model for the occasion was the Formula One collection, with TAG Heuer creating a new 3000-piece limited edition run.

Related Reading: Brand Essentials Tales From TAG Heuer 

Standing at a 43mm case diameter x 48.5mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness, you could be fooled into thinking that this watch is a lot larger than you bargained for. This is half true; The C-shape case DNA still runs true in the Formula One Collection, but you’d be happy to know that the watch wears more true to size than those of a similar width. The quartz chronograph movement – a Ronda-based calibre – remains in this watch, but it’s hardly a pain point considering the entry-level nature of the Formula 1 lineup.

Though the Red Bull Special Edition has long been a mainstay in TAG Heuer’s annual lineup, this celebratory rendition has a few tricks up its sleeve to help differentiate it from its original lineage. The case is now offered in a black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating, dramatically improving all-around scratch resistance, accompanied by a navy strap reminiscent of the Oracle Red Bull Racing uniform colours.

The dial has been significantly updated, with a grained finish that evokes a navy-coloured asphalt, with the Oracle Red Bull Racing logo also making its first-ever appearance on the dial. No other Red Bull Special Edition has ever done this before, so this one is definitely for the hardcore fans. Finally, the case back has been adorned with Oracle Red Bull Racing’s 20th season and team logos – a duo of defining symbols in the world of motorsports that remain of equal importance to TAG Heuer.

Initial Thoughts

Complete with a unique leather travel case and sleek branded box, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph X Oracle Red Bull Racing is a love letter to one of the best modern Formula 1 companies around. Built from the ground up as a tribute to the achievements of Red Bull and TAG Heuer, it’s a purpose-built piece with a sentimental design that can even make McLaren’s Lando Norris happy – I didn’t even know that was possible this season!

Yes, the Oracle Red Bull Racing team still has a long way to go before they can enter the Formula 1 Hall of Fame – Scuderia Ferrari, for example, has 15 Driver’s Championships and 16 Constructor’s Championships to their name. However, they’ve been in the game since the 1950s, and in about a third of the time, Oracle Red Bull Racing is already halfway to matching their resume. In any case, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph X Oracle Red Bull Racing stands as a double-decade victory lap for Oracle Red Bull Racing, celebrating all of their current achievements whilst anticipating how much more of the journey there is left to go. And with Max Verstappen recently collecting his fourth championship in a row, who knows how long until Ferrari starts quaking in their boots? Better start your engines!

Reference: CAZ101AZ.FT8090

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 43mm case diameter x 48.5mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness
• Case Material: Black DLC stainless steel
• Dial: Blue with Yellow & Red accents, Red Bull motif
• Movement: Quartz 
• Complications: Date, Chronograph with 1/10th sec & 30 min registers
• Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
• Strap: Blue rubber with black DLC steel pin buckle

Australian RRP: AU$3,850

Availability: Limited to 3000 pieces. Available at TAGHeuer.com and all authorised retailers.

An undeserved pariah of the watch world, Maurice Lacroix have made significant strides to improve their horological lineup as of late. As they move away from lower-tier watchmaking and department store timepieces, the engineers and craftsmen behind the Saignelégier-based brand have garnered widespread acclaim for their recent releases. Between the sporty remaster of the Pontos to the highly complicated Masterpiece collection, there is a lot more of Maurice Lacroix to be interested in these days compared to the past.

In spite of this acclaim, it seems that the Aikon collection has been gathering most of the spotlight, both in terms of good press and the Maurice Lacroix R&D department – and for good reason! Despite its relative youthfulness in the horological sense, the Aikon’s debut was extremely well-received by the global community, becoming their best-selling watch in a remarkably short amount of time. In the modern day, it’s often unfairly perceived as yet another take on the exhausted integrated bracelet sports watch trend – but, if the average ignoramus deigned to do some research, they would find that it’s hardly the case.

Firstly, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon’s design is actually a remaster of a previously popular collection from the 1990s, entitled ‘Calypso.’ The Calypso, featuring a five-link articulated bracelet and the iconic six ‘claws’ on the bezel, informed the eventual modernised design of the Aikon collection. Additionally, the Aikon’s 2016 debut was far ahead of the integrated bracelet renaissance we know and love today, predating the Tissot PRX – a watch commonly agreed upon as the revival of the integrated bracelet – by five years. It does feel a bit strange to use words like ‘predating’ when it comes to two watches released in the 21st Century, but the point still stands: Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon collection is indelibly etched into the watch world’s unfolding modern history.

It’s this respectable modern reputation that has prompted the brand to use class-leading innovative materials to bring the Aikon up to snuff. Starting with the Aikon Automatic Titanium released at Geneva Watch Days 2024,  their quest for the ultimate modern timepiece continues with the debut of two Aikon Automatic Ceramic watches! Joining the current lineup, the pair come in either demure black or bright white ceramic cases, sized to 42mm and 39mm respectively, with beautifully contrasted finishing across the case and bracelet.

Related Reading: The Countdown To Geneva Watch Days Is On!

This isn’t just your ordinary ceramic, though, as Maurice Lacroix have taken three years of careful research to develop a modified ‘technical ceramic.’ This involves the doping of the original zirconium oxide (Zr02, the scientific notation of the ceramic) with three others: hafnium oxide (HfO2), yttrium oxide (Y2O3) and aluminium oxide (Al2O3). The result is a new shatter-resistant, fade-resistant ceramic that retains the base factors of lightness and scratch resistance – ensuring that the brilliance of the ceramic finish remains overtime.

All the familiar fixings of the original Aikon design still remain in this tough and fashionable package: The Calypso’s ‘claws’ and articulated bracelet, the Clous De Paris dial, and 200m water resistance maintain the Aikon Automatic Ceramic’s urban versatility and signature toughness under pressure. This reliability is only furthered by the recommissioning of the Cal. ML115, a Sellita-based movement offering a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beatrate and a respectable 38-hour power reserve. Not anything particularly mind-blowing in the movement department, but you can count on it to get the job done in a pinch, and for good value at that!

My Thoughts

Founded in 1975, Maurice Lacroix has now been a part of the watch game for almost half a century. While that still sounds relatively young compared to esteemed icons of horology like Vacheron Constantin or Blancpain – both of which have produced watches for hundreds of years – I believe it’s high time they step up to the plate and claim their flowers. The brand seems to have agreed on this too, as they have set out to establish their legitimacy by using their experience to move to a higher calibre of watchmaking.

These new Aikon Automatic Ceramic timepieces are an indication that the tide has begun to shift for Maurice Lacroix. Developing a new type of ceramic is neither simple or cheap, so to present not one, but two new watches in an innovative case material is certainly not something to scoff at. Yes, the Cal. M115 is not an in-house movement or a technical marvel, but it’s excellent at doing the one thing that a watch is supposed to be good at: telling the time. And for the Aikon Automatic Ceramic, it’s a perfect fit in terms of value and reliability.

It’s not like Maurice Lacroix’s manufacture doesn’t have the capabilities to develop a new movement – just look at the Masterpiece collection! However, these things take time, and while the changes within Maurice Lacroix will be monumental, they will also be gradual. It’s releases like the Aikon Automatic Ceramic, though, that should encourage you to stick around and see what happens next – I think you might be surprised if you do!

Model: AI6008-CRM22-330-2 (Black), AI6007-CRM72-130-7 (White)

Reference: DB28XPSWT

Specification:

• Case: 42mm case diameter x 48mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness (Black), 39mm x 45mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness (White)
• Case Material: Black or White technical ceramic
• Dial: Black or White
• Crystal: Sapphire (1800 vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective treatment
• Movement: Automatic Cal. M115 (Base SW200-1a)
• Case-Back: Screwed case back in polished titanium and open on a linear power reserve indicator
• Power reserve: 38h
• Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
• Straps: Black or White ceramic bracelet with Easychange system & butterfly clasp

International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 2,990 (Both)

Availability: Available now, at MauriceLacroix.com and authorised retailers.

Digital time is such an underrated complication in mechanical watches. Yes, you can access digital time on practically any screen, phone, or piece of wearable tech these days. But, it’s infinitely more satisfying to see how mad craftsmen the world over have harnessed digital time displays through flawless feats of engineering. This list comprises some of my favourites that represent the very best of this complication!

1 – Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon

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I just had to talk about this one, as I can confidently say it’s one of the most incredible feats of microengineering have ever seen. Vanguart is a fairly new independent brand in the haute horlogerie scene, having been founded in 2017 by Axel Leuenberger, Jeremy Frelechox, Thierry Fischer, and Mehmet Korutürk. Leuenberger and Frelechox are both seasoned veterans of APRP (Audemars Piguet, Renaud & Papi) and Fischer is a seasoned watch designer, with Korutürk standing as the President of the company.

Despite its gargantuan 49mm wide, 48mm long and 10.5mm thick stature, the Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon’s design is as abstract as it is organic and sleek. Every line of the watch flows seamlessly, with no visible screws or pins. This allows for an alien, yet seamless wearing experience – a credit towards the design chops of Fischer. The dial features three concentric rings of Arabic numerals, designed with a subtle concave shape to enhance the illusion of depth. A tourbillon has been placed into the centre of the dial, evocative of the timepiece’s namesake. 

Related Reading: The Art Of Complications – The Tourbillon 

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The movement powering all this horological goodness is the manual wind T-1701, which runs on a 3Hz (21,600VpH) beat rate backed by 42 hours of power reserve. While 42 hours may not seem like the best in the world, keep in mind that it’s not only powering the central tourbillon, but the Vanguart Black Hole carries a few more tricks up its sleeve, such as the vertically tracked power reserve, visible at the 9 o’clock; and dual crowns with what Vanguart calls ‘joystick time setting.’ Instead of having to spin either crown to adjust the time, Vanguart’s crowns require just a nudge forward or backwards to dynamically adjust the time of the watch. 

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The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon is simply magical in both form and function. It really goes to show that, even now, new ground is being broken in watchmaking almost every single day. No wonder why they were able to get the support of investors like Hayden Kho and James Harden – who wouldn’t want to be a part of this craziness?

Availability: 8 pieces in each material (Titanium, rose/white gold), International RRP CHF290,000 (Titanium) or CHF320,000 (Rose/white gold). Find out more at Vanguart’s official website.

2 – Amida Digitrend

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Certainly in more accessible territory is Amida, which has burst onto the scene in 2024 after nearly five decades in hibernation. Founded in 1925 in Granges, Switzerland, the fledgling watch company would be one of many brands unfortunately swept up in the Quartz Crisis, collapsing in 1979. The Digitrend, introduced three years prior at the Basel Fair, would become one of the company’s crowning achievements. One of the first casquette watches in the world, the Amida Digitrend’s modern (for the time) driver-style design became an immediate sensation.

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In 2024, the brand was brought back into the limelight thanks to a renewed Amida crew, led by Matthieu Allègre and Clément Meynier. Naturally, the Digitrend was the first place they decided to go, resulting in a faithful remaster of their most iconic watch. The smooth, retro-futuristic design features a 39.6mm x 39 x 15.6mm monobloc brushed stainless steel case, accompanied by either a brushed steel strap or one of black Alcantara textile.

The core of the Amida Digitrend is powered by an automatic Soprod Newton P092 movement, with a respectable 44-hour power reserve and specialist modifications for the time display. At first glance, a horizontal time display the way that Amida does it seems to have ‘engineering nightmare’ written all over it. However, that is far from the truth – in 1973, Amida was able to solve this simple problem by way of optical illusion, utilising reflective crystal prisms to reflect light similarly to a submarine’s periscope. 

Related Reading: MB&F Relives The Dream With The HM8 MkII

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In this modern watch world, I’ve found that more and more brands are being brought back out of extinction – kind of like Jurassic Park for watch enthusiasts, and it’s only ever a good thing! By bringing back the brands of the past, not only are we able to spiritually succeed their founders, but also learn from their achievements and shortcomings. For the watch industry to see the way forward, it must learn to look back. In Amida’s case, they’ve done the looking back part – now the real work truly begins.

Availability: Available for waitlist (Launch Edition no longer available), International RRP CHF3.250. Find out more at Amida’s official website.

3 – A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

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Of course, we can’t talk about digital time without talking about what I deem to be the world-beater of the digital time complicatiion. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk collection, initially released in 2008, is one of the more abstract offerings from the Glashütte-based brand. At 41.9mm in case diameter and standing 12.2mm thick, it’s certainly not your typical delicate dress watch. But, the insane level of mechanical and aesthetic complexity has made it one of the most desirable timepieces around. 

So much so, that A. Lange & Söhne have released six different versions of the Zeitwerk (German for ‘time work’) as of 2024. This includes an assortment of additional features such as: date wheels; minute repeater and decimal strike complications; translucent dials; and further accompanied by cases of platinum, white gold and their proprietary HONEYGOLD®!

Related Reading: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in Honeygold

It’s hard to talk about the Zeitwerk without first mentioning that dial, which is unlike anything you will ever see in another watch. Enlarged, outsize hour and minute indicators take up the 9 and 3 o’clock positions respectively, followed by a small second sub-dial at 6 o’clock with the signature ‘Auf/Ab’ power reserve indicator situated right above. What I love the most is that the outsize digital time indicators are made separate from the rest of the dial, with A. Lange & Söhne making no pretences as to the mechanical nature of this masterpiece.

And that’s only the half of it, considering the manual wind L043 series of movements – complete with an oddly situated 2 o’clock crown – is one of the most gorgeous pieces of machinery ever hand-crafted by a human being. Just creating a movement efficient enough to withstand the level of complexity that the Zeitwerk offers is an achievement in of itself; yet the master watchmakers of A. Lange & Söhne have managed to do so whilst offering power reserves of up to 72 hours – and still have time to hand finish every aspect of the watch! 

Availability/RRP: Upon Request. Find out more at A. Lange & Söhne’s official website.

4 – Franck Müller Curvex CX Master Jumper

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However, if there’s anyone that’s going to contend with A. Lange & Söhne in the digital time arena, Franck Müller is a brand that would be eager to step up to the plate. Unveiled in July 2023, the Curvex CX Master Jumper series is one of those timepieces that can either establish or re-establish a legacy. For Franck Müller, a brand that has lost some popularity in the Western world, it does the latter, permitting them to gleefully live up to their reputation as the ‘Master of Complications.’

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Presented in a 40mm x 55.4mm x 10.8mm case, the Curvex CX Master Jumper proves that, for a mechanical watch, no hands is no problem. The dial is completely barren, save for the simple yet elaborate guilloché and three vertically aligned digital displays. These displays tell the hour, minute, and date respectively, and are connected by a circular cut-out meant to evoke the image of the movement on the front of the dial.

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Speaking of movement, the Franck Müller Curvex CX Master Jumper contains the manual wind Cal. MVT FM 3100-C1, which powers all the above complications with ease. Yes, it only has about 30 hours of power reserve, but a watch like this is hardly suited for everyday wear (unless you can afford it). Additionally, Franck Müller also has to contend with not just the complications, but the challenges of restricting their engineering prowess to the confines of the Curvex case. At the end of the day, it’s a beautifully designed watch, and Franck Müller has invested their time to ensure that the movement perfectly fits into the case. And for that, I think it’s a kick-ass statement piece.

Availability: Upon Request, International RRP CHF72,800 (Rose/white gold). Find out more at Franck Müller’s official website.

5 – De Bethune DBD

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Related Reading: De Bethune kicks off Dubai Watch Week 2023 With Brand New DBD Evergreen!

Coming a little out of left field is independent brand De Bethune, who specialise in keeping within a unique horological aesthetic. It’s hard to stand out in haute horlogerie, especially when every release is as spectacular as the last, but the L’Auberson brand prefers it that way. They love keeping to themselves whilst at the same time producing ruthlessly well-crafted timepieces, dropping them to the surprise and wonder of enthusiasts worldwide. At Geneva Watch Days 2024, for example, they would find themselves close to the mainstream spotlight with a double drop of watches within their DB28 collection.

Related Reading: De Bethune’s DB28 goes XS x2 for Gevena Watch Days 

As much as I gushed about those two, I would have to say my favourite release from them is one of their lesser talked about – especially considering that it’s extremely limited. The DBD collection, initially referred to as DBS Digitale in 2006, is an unorthodox watch among unorthodox watches. 

At 42.6mm diameter with just 9.4mm thickness, the minimalist nature of the De Bethune DBD plays extremely well with its vertical crown and bizarre case shape, complete with ‘ogive-shaped’ lugs. Côtes de Genève striping is prevalent on the dial, available in either red (DBD ‘Season 2’) or green (DBD ‘Evergreen’), and comes complete with a completely symmetrical complication layout: a triple calendar (day/date/month) flanked by two rubies, with the minute and hour indicators situated below.

Completing the watch is the innocent-looking Cal. DB2044 movement, which has been delicately shaped and completed with a heat-blued escapement. However, don’t let the simplicity fool you, as the DB2044 carries with it a monstrous amount of specs, thanks to the in-house development team at De Bethune. In the relatively thin case, the brand has still managed to cram in a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate, and a scarcely believable 120 hours of power reserve! Such a thing would be almost impossible to believe, were it made by anyone else. However, De Bethune takes themselves extremely seriously, and despite its simple and innocent nature, the De Bethune DBD collection is as serious as it gets.

Availability: Limited to 20 pieces (Evergreen) and 13 pieces (Season 2), International RRP CHF105,000. Find out more at De Bethune’s official website.

6 – IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years

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As I said, to move forward in the watch industry is to look back. IWC proved to be no exception to the rule, as the Schaffhausen-based brand is highly regarded to be one of the progenitors of the digital time complication with the Pallweber pocket watch. Invented by Josef Pallweber in 1883, he would grant the production licenses to IWC, who would make and sell over 16,000 copies of Pallweber’s invention until the 1890s.

Related Reading: The History Of IWC Schaffhausen

In 2018, IWC would celebrate their 150th anniversary by heralding in the IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition collection, effectively resurrecting the classic aesthetic for a more contemporary (and wristwatch-oriented) audience. 

IWC preserved the design elements that enthusiasts loved about the original pocket watch – particularly the hour/minute/small second layout – in a 45mm diameter, 11.9mm thick case. These timepieces were available in both steel and red gold, with lacquered dial options of deep blue or stark white. Three discs comprise the digital time display of hours and minutes, with a minimal yet elegantly designed small second sub-dial sunken down for dimensionality’s sake. Forgive me if I don’t sound super excited about these watches, though; It’s not that I don’t like the design, but the classic and simplistic design does more of the talking than I could ever possibly describe.

What I can talk about with excitement, though, is the movement they used for this special tribute. The manual wind Cal. 94200, an offshoot of the Cal. 94000 series of movements, was specifically made to hold up to the added complexities of the Tribute to Pallweber Edition collection. The Cal. 94200 was complete with a 60-hour power reserve, 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate, beautiful finishing, and a commemorative medallion inside the movement. 

The IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition collection would the perfect nod to one of their earliest and most significant horological contributors. Josef Pallweber’s innovation and craftsmanship would set the standard high, inadvertently paving the way for other legends like Albert Pellaton, Richard Habring and Gérald Genta to indelibly mark their legacy in IWC, with the brand paying tribute to all of them in kind. 

Availability: No longer available, Grey Market Est. AU$30,000 – AU$60,000 (Chrono24). Find out more at IWC’s official website.

With every new year comes two more reasons for me to be excited: Watches &Wonders and the GPHG. Now that it’s passed, you may already be familiar with the world’s biggest watch fair , but I’m more than happy to explain the latter.

How Does It Work?

Standing for Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the GPHG is to the watch industry what the Oscars are to the film industry. To compete, the best watchmakers and watch brands from all around the world submit various timepieces for consideration. These watches are then nominated by the GPHG Academy to compete in any of the 15 award categories, including: Best Sports Watch – timepieces notable for their performance in intense environments; Best Ladies’ Watch; Best Tourbillon; Even the Petite Aiguille and Challenge categories, consisting of the best timepieces made within a certain budget (CHF 3,000 to CHF 10,000 and under CHF3,000, respectively)

The Academy itself is an assortment of nearly 1000 of the best and most experienced stakeholders in the watch industry, including: Hodinkee’s Ben Klymer; Arnault brothers Jean and Frédéric; YouTubers Jennifer Leingang (Jenni Elle) and Nico Leonard Van Der Horst; Akrivia’s Rexhep Rexhepi; and the venerable Richard Mille, among countless others. From these nominations, just six watches are chosen per category, which are then judged by a panel of 30 GPHG jurors. These include some of the greatest minds that horology has to offer, with master watchmakers such as Raúl Pagès, Bart Grönefeld, and Philippe Dufour among others.

The Aiguille D’Or – The GPHG’s Highest Honour

Like most award shows, there exists the ‘big one’ – the award that everyone is gunning after. For the GPHG, this is the Aiguille D’Or (Literally translated to ‘Golden Needle’), denoting the GPHG’s watch of the year. Not only is this a big deal for the brand, but it also permits the winning brand’s CEO to sit at the judge’s table for the next GPHG Award Ceremony. This year, Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta has been invited to sit on the jury, as the Le Brassus brand won the Aiguille D’Or in 2023 with the Code 11:59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD4 under the leadership of previous CEO François Bennahmias.

Related Reading: All the GPHG Winners From Geneva 2023

Like every GPHG, competition between the nominated pieces was as fierce as ever. However, there can only be one winner, and IWC Schaffhausen was destined to receive the top honours. The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, while appearing as unassuming as perpetual calendars go, is a viciously engineered masterpiece. This is IWC’s first secular perpetual calendar complication, factoring in the rules of the Gregorian calendar and skipping three leap years over the next 400 years.

Not only that, but the Porgugieser Eternal Calendar’s moonphase complication has been re-engineered, making it accurate to 45 million years! To do this, they had to use a specialised computer program that simulated over 23 trillion possible gearing systems to determine which one would be most ideal for the task, resulting in an engineering feat that permits the Portugieser Eternal Calendar to display accurate moon phase readings until the year 45,364,079. 

While its 44.4mm case diameter and 14.9mm thickness are rather imposing for all but the largest of wrists, no other watch in the world has perhaps taken the phrase of ‘withstanding the test of time’ any more literally than this one. IWC has deservedly taken the Aiguille D’Or for 2024, undoubtedly making CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr an extremely happy man. Congratulations from WatchAdvice to all at IWC and to Christoph – we can’t wait to see you on the juror’s table next year!

The Highlights

While IWC gets the biggest share of the spotlight with the Aiguille D’Or, there still remain 15 categories and 5 honorary awards to play for. As much as I want to break every single nominated watch down in excruciating detail, by the time I’m finished the Portugieser Eternal Calendar would probably reach its end. However, here are three of the award winners that I felt best encapsulated the spirit of GPHG 2024 and this incredible landmark year for watchmaking:

Audacity Prize: Berneron Mirage Sienna

In my opinion, this has to be the best release of 2024 – barring the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, of course. Sylvain Berneron, former Chief Product Officer at Breitling, felt that it was high time for him to explore his own horological vision beyond the large corporate confines of the esteemed Swiss brand. His ventures beyond Breitling would lead him to found Berneron alongside his wife, architect Marie-Alix Berneron, in 2022. 

The Mirage collection, their first solo foray into the watchmaking world, is perhaps what all enterprising watch brand founders aspire to create. Complete creative freedom for the Berneron duo saw the Mirage take form as a uniquely asymmetrical timepiece that is as deliberate as it is imperfect. Due to the shape of their in-house Cal. 233, it became the first shaped watch to ever be built in reverse, tasking Berneron to design the case around the movement instead of the other way around.  

This gives the Mirage an almost otherworldly appearance—melting, yet meticulously deliberate in every design element. It’s exemplary in its expression of Surrealism (Think Salvador Dalí’s The Persistence of Memory), transforming a fantastical art form into a tangible, wearable masterpiece unlike anything else.

Designing a harmonious timepiece is hard enough, but to purposefully warp and distort its elements in a way that not only preserves the flow but enhances its organic aesthetic requires a singular, audacious, and innovative vision. Berneron’s Mirage Sienna, however, does so with extreme skill and craftsmanship. This timepiece and all the creativity it represents stand as a bold reminder that, even after centuries of horological artistry, the watchmaking world still has a lot to learn. It’s because of this that Berneron’s maiden voyage into the industry has secured the Audacity Prize at this year’s GPHG Awards Ceremony.

Intl. Retail Price & Availability: CHF 61,000, order book re-opening 2025. Find out more at the Berneron Official Website

Iconic Prize: Piaget Polo ‘79

Piaget in the modern day is oftentimes overlooked, which is tragic. I believe they are one of the most criminally underrated watchmakers out there, and their illustrious heritage proves it. Once such example of this heritage is the returning Piaget Polo ‘79: A far cry from the Polo designs of the 21st Century, but one that was so groundbreaking and disruptive that its aesthetic still holds up to this day. This seems to be a sentiment that was shared by the rest of the GPHG Academy, as this incredible timepiece was crowned with the Iconic Watch Prize for 2024.

Related Reading: Piaget Brings Back An Icon With The Polo ’79

A major player in the sports watch revolution amidst the Quartz Crisis, the Piaget Polo ‘79 is an exquisitely refined watch that can take on the rigours of everyday wear. Water resistance, shock resistance, and ultra-thin wearability were the three key features of the original design, all of which still persist today. Despite being encased in 18k gold, the Polo ‘79 still features a 50m water resistance. A bit low for some dissidents, perhaps, but still uncommon amongst the 30m water resistance of equally dressy watches.

Speaking of, describing the Piaget Polo ‘79 as simply ‘dressy’ barely scratches the surface. The remastered design remains faithful to the extravagance of the original, complete with an uninterrupted set of striped gadroons across the case and dial of the watch. The most major (and perhaps only) change that Piaget made to the Polo ‘79 is the addition of an ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic movement, as opposed to the original’s quartz. Giving the watch it’s incredible 7.85mm thickness, the in-house 1200P1, is a welcome addition to the remaster. Beautifully decorated and visible through the sapphire caseback, it is also a wake-up call to those who still believe they can write off the Richemont brand’s horological talents. 

Aus. Retail Price & Availability: AU$120,000, available to order via Piaget.com and Piaget boutiques

Challenge Prize: Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6

My taste in watches has always been rather eclectic, in contrast to some of my peers. That’s hardly a bad thing, though – if we liked all the same things, everything would be boring! We even established a fun rule of thumb: ‘If Matt doesn’t like it, Mario probably will.’ I suppose, then, that the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6 is one of many manifestations of precisely what I look for in a watch. That is, if I could get a hold of it – The No. 6 is only available by raffle and Japanese domestic shipping only!

While the microbrand remains low-key and modest, the efforts of watchmaker Jiro Katayama have beat the Swiss at their own game, capturing the Challange Watch Prize for GPHG 2024. Founded by Katayama-san in 2008, Ōtsuka Lōtec is his outlet of creative horological expression, with a focus on creating watches that are machine-like in nature. While that seems like a normal lens with which to view a mechanical watch, the No. 6 is almost opposite to what the Berneron Mirage represents: Instead of organic, flowing shapes, the No. 6 is cold, raw, and unforgivingly industrial.

Don’t let appearances fool you, though. The Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6 is incredibly detailed in its own right, and every element works together to evoke a unique charm. The dial and crystal, taking inspiration from a Japanese desk fan, have been uniquely shaped; the crown has been situated at 2 o’clock as opposed to the usual 3; and exposed screws across the case and dial, accompanied by clear Arabic numerals and printed Japanese text, further enforce the utilitarian aesthetic.

While the design is charming in its own right, this is the Challenge category; Compromises had to be made somewhere, and an in-house movement might have ruled Ōtsuka Lōtec out of the competition. The Miyota 9015 that powers the No. 6 is hardly a horological marvel, but it is more than capable of getting the job done where it matters. However, it has also been extensively modified by Katayama-san, resulting in a module that allows for a double retrograde complication for the minutes and hours. This complication, most often seen in watches ten times the No.6’s price point, is an incredible and cost-effective modification of a seemingly bog-standard watch movement, and elevates this strangely beautiful timepiece above its contenders. 

Intl. Retail Price & Availability: ¥440,000, raffle & Japanese domestic shipping only. Find out more at the Ōtsuka Lōtec Official Website

The Results

Finally, here is a recap of all the results and nominated timepieces per category and speciality prize. Jeweller-watchmakers Van Cleef & Arpels made away with the most GPHG awards of any brand (3); And the award winners, though predominantly Swiss, also consisted of: France (3, Van Cleef & Arpels); Germany (1, Kudoke); Japan (1, Ōtsuka Lōtec); Finland (1, Voutilainen); and Malaysia (1, Ming).

INDIVIDUAL PRIZES (Open to All Contenders)

Aiguille D’Or

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar

ALL CATEGORIES

Ladies’ Watch Prize

• Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Jour Nuit
• Other Nominees: Hermès Cut, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36mm Diamond-Set,  Fabergé Colours Of Love Rose Gold Rainbow, Chopard Alpine Eagle 33, Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Night Tide

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize

• Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Arpels Brise d’Été
• Other Nominees: Andersen Genève Sakura x BCHH, Chaumet Swing, Fabergé Compliquée Butterfly Blooms Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours Sakura, Trilobe The Exquisite Hour Secret

Men’s Watch Prize

• Winner: Voutilainen – KV20i Reversed
• Other Nominees: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum, Garrick S3 Mk2, Grand Seiko SLGW003, Hajime Asaoka Tsunami “Art Deco”, Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum

Men’s Complication Watch Prize

• Winner: De Bethune – DB Kind of Grande Complication
• Other Nominees: ArtyA Purity Central Tourbillon Blue, Byrne Meca, Chopard L.U.C Strike One, Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper, Kazuo Maeda Heures Universelles

Iconic Watch Prize

• Winner: Piaget – Piaget Polo ‘79
• Other Nominees: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler, Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, Hublot Classic Fusion Original Yellow Gold 29mm, Louis Vuitton Tambour, Urwerk Ur-102 Reloaded

Chronograph Watch Prize

• Winner: Massena Lab x Sylvain Pinaud – Chronograph Monopoussoir
• Other Nominees: Angelus Instrument De Vitesse, Louis Vuitton X Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe À Sonnerie, Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Split Seconds Chronograph, TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

Tourbillon Watch Prize

• Winner: Daniel Roth – Tourbillon Souscription
• Other Nominees: Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier, Sartory Billard SB06-24HM “La Nuit”, Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary, Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize

• Winner: Laurent Ferrier – Classic Moon Silver
• Other Nominees: Anton Suhanov Chronotope, IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, Frédérique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture x Peter Speake, H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Chinese Calendar, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize

• Winner: Bovet 1822 – Récital 28 Prowess 1
• Other Nominees: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé, Mb&F HM11 Architect, Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

Time Only Watch Prize

• Winner: H. Moser & Cie – Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
• Other Nominees: Berneron Mirage Sienna, Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer, Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier, Czapek Goutte D’eau, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Pf Micro-Rotor No Date

Jewellery Watch Prize

• Winner: Chopard – Laguna
• Other Nominees: Bvlgari Fenice, Damiani Margherita Desert Garden, Dior Montres Grand Soir Reine Des Abeilles, Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium, Piaget Aura

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize

• Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté
• Other Nominees: Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone, Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Year Of The Dragon, Hermès Arceau Chorus Stellarum, Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Of Wonders Snake’s Jungle, Piaget Glowing Weave

Petite Aiguille Prize

• Winner: Kudoke – 3 Salmon
• Other Nominees: Amida Digitrend, Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Ariadne, Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture X Seconde/Seconde/, Furlan Marri Perpetual One, Tudor Black Bay 58 Gmt

Sports Watch Prize

• Winner: Ming – 37.09 Bluefin
• Other Nominees: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph X Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition, Singer Reimagined Divetrack, Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

Challenge Watch Prize

• Winner: Otsuka Lotec – No. 6
• Other Nominees: Beaubleu Seconde Française, Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase, Furlan Marri Disco Verde, kollokium Projekt 01, Spaceone Tellurium

Though not as widely recognized as its peers, the La Côte-aux-Fées brand has repeatedly proven why it deserves a place among the world’s finest jewellers and watchmakers. In 2024, they have only served to strengthen this reputation by way of release both innovative and nostalgic. From releasing a new version of the modern Piaget Polo Skeleton in Ceramic to re-introducing the legendarily retro Piaget Polo ‘79, Piaget’s 150th anniversary in review is shaping up to be something special. As the year winds down, however, Piaget turns its gaze not only toward honouring the classic timepieces of its past but also toward celebrating their most dedicated collector. 

An icon of the visual art landscape, Andy Warhol likely needs no introduction. Throughout his career, he was one of the pre-eminent leaders of the Pop art movement, alongside contemporaries such as Roy Lichtenstein and Keith Haring. His work inspired countless people to take in the beauty of things often overlooked, even mundane items like Coca-Cola bottles, Campbell’s Soup cans, and even a banana. 

One of his most famous paintings, the Marylin Diptych, paid homage to the legendary Marylin Monroe. While it would help to immortalise her life and likeness on silkscreen, his usage of bold colours and faded grey-scale is suggested to evoke the duality of Monroe’s glamorous, fame-fuelled public image and the price of such, which would result in her untimely passing weeks before the painting was finished.

But What Does Andy Warhol Have To Do With Piaget? As a matter of fact, a lot: While Warhol is a legendary artist in his own right, he was also known to be an especially prolific watch collector. Not only that, but Warhol was a well-known member of the Piaget Society – a moniker given to those by fourth-generation family member Yves Piaget that held a deep connection to the brand. 

Warhol would come to own seven Piaget watches in his life, but has always been most commonly associated with the Piaget Black Tie. The Black Tie collection is one of Piaget’s vintage icons, debuting in 1972 and predating the original Polo by seven years. Outfitted with the Beta 21 quartz movement and a unique rectangular cushion shape, the Black Tie was a fantastically period-appropriate yet somewhat timeless piece. Perhaps that’s why the general aesthetic remained largely unchanged – case gadroons included – when the Black Tie relaunched in 2014. This time, the Black Tie with an ultra-thin automatic movement to suit, as well as both rose gold and white gold cases and even a malachite dial rendition.

After ten years hibernating in the background, however, Piaget have deemed it time for a shake-up. In collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, the modern Black Tie collection has now officially been renamed to the Piaget Andy Warhol Celebrating this momentous occasion, of course, needs an appropriate celebratory watch, and Piaget is hardly one to disappoint.

While the new Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris stands at an imposing 45mm in case diameter, its stature is delicately compounded by a conservative 43mm lug-to-lug and a 7.6mm thickness. This new piece, whilst still distinctly Black Tie in nature, comes with a blue PVD meteorite dial and Dauphine hands – the latter of which was added with the 2014 relaunch. 

Encased in 18k white gold, the new piece has done away with the heritage-inspired gold gadroons, opting for a clous de paris (a.k.a. hobnail) bevelled finish. This case finish, typically associated with the art of guilloché in watch dials, is tremendously more difficult in this context. The patience required to nail this finish on an angle presents a litany of challenges that only the capable craftsmen of Piaget are able to tackle.

Finally, the internal mechanics have also been given a minor update, as the Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris is powered by the Cal. 501P1. With a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate backed by a 40-hour power reserve, the Cal. 501P1 is more than capable of keeping up with the horological needs of the wearer.

Initial Thoughts

When art and watches come together, it’s always guaranteed to be a blast. Just look at 2024 as an example. We’ve had a countless number of art styles, artists, and artworks referenced in the watch world, drawing upon a veritable sea of cultural influences that push the boundary of horological engineering and craftsmanship. It’s why TimeForArt is one of my favourite piece unique watch auctions of all time, as it directly funds contemporary arts and artists – but that’s a story for another time.

Piaget’s Andy Warhol Clous De Paris is exemplary of such worlds colliding. Warhol is one of the most famous artists of all time, so to hear that he too shared a deep connection with horology and time was both fascinating yet almost entirely unsurprising to me. After all, he did coin the phrase ‘fifteen minutes of fame.’

And while these days, fame is often fleeting, the new Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris. Not many watch collections get a second life, but the watch collection formerly known as Black Tie has the privilege of living three: Once when it was invented; Twice when it relaunched; And once more in 2024 as the Andy Warhol. Joining its younger brother the Polo ‘79 in the limelight, the Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris is yet another feather in the illustrious cap of the Swiss jeweller/watchmaker, as they bask in this year’s retro renaissance. 

Reference: G0A49238

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 45mm case diameter x 43mm lug-to-lug x 7.6mm thickness
• Case Material: 18k white gold
• Dial: Blue meteorite
• Movement: Automatic Cal. 501P1
• Power Reserve: 40h
• Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
• Strap: Blue alligator strap with 18k white gold pin buckle

Australian RRP: A$100,000

Availability: For availability, please contact your local Piaget boutique or head online to Piaget.com

While some dissidents may see Bulgari more as a jeweller than a ‘proper watchmaker,’ the mark that they have left on the modern industry is undeniable. This has been reflected not only in their designs but also in the level of technical expertise required to produce any Bulgari timepiece, resulting in an innumerable amount of outstanding achievements. These have been by way of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, which in its time in the Bulgari lineup has broken several records, including the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon (2018) and the World’s Thinnest Chronometer (2024).

Since 2014, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has also proven to be one of the greatest canvasses with which notable craftsmen and artisans the world over have left their impression. From Executive Director of Watch Design Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani’s Sketch Edition to the highly sought-after Tadao Ando collaboration, the Roman brand has proved themselves on the horological battlefield countless times since their 1977 entry into the industry.

Related Reading: Five of the Best Watches from High Fashion Houses

It seems, then, that another major collaboration with another esteemed artist was not too far out in the future, as the Italian jewellery and watch house has chosen to team up with the venerable conceptual artist Laurent Grasso to work the canvas of the Octo Finissimo into his own image. The Parisian artist uses an art style that combines history, science, mythology and the supernatural, evoking the pursuit of all things unknowable. This conceptual and thought-provoking imagery makes him one of the best candidates to bring a fresh new take to an already beloved timepiece.

Thus, his efforts have resulted in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso: A perfect coupling of Bulgari’s hyper-modern, brutalist and understated design and Grasso’s singular creative vision. Though the sharp, geometric frame of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso wears significantly larger than the 40mm diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug suggest, it’s compounded by the signature titanium case material and remarkable 5mm thinness. Having worn the original Octo Finissimo before, it almost feels like part of an Ancient Roman gauntlet – an aesthetic and tactile trait that I’m sure Stigliani and the Bulgari team are proud of. 

While the silhouette is familiar, the similarities to the original article stop very abruptly. In conjunction with the traditional sandblasted finish, the titanium case and dial have been entirely PVD coated in a midnight blue. This has been done to reflect the tranquillity of a post-sunset sky, serving as the perfect backdrop for viewing the wonders of space.

Recalling the epistemological nature of Grasso’s works, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso uses the matte blue dial to reflect a mysterious, iridescent cloud, floating in the seemingly endless blue void. Said Laurent Grasso: “I thought of iridescent clouds—unique and almost magical formation… The particles in suspension and myriad frozen water droplets diffract light, rendering the cloud iridescent with multiple colours. I find this phenomenon fascinating…”.

Executing such an artistic display of the Great Unknown required some brainstorming between Stigliani and Grasso. They would eventually turn to serigraphy – a fancy way to say silkscreen printing – as their medium of choice, utilising metallic pigments to create the colourful diffusion. This is a well-known technique that has pervaded the art world for years, but was always remarkably ahead of its time and used by icons such as LeRoy Neiman and the venerable Andy Warhol.

Of course, the fine artistry of this piece is only matched by Bulgari’s level of mechanical craftsmanship. One of very few movements worthy of such a feat of horological engineering is the BVL 138, the signature micro-rotor movement of the LVMH brand. Beating at 3Hz (21,600VpH) backed by a remarkable 60 hours of power reserve, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso is as horologically and creatively sound as watches can get, even bearing the signatures of Bulgari and Grasso on the transparent sapphire case back.

My Thoughts

Every time the Bulgari Octo Finissimo comes up in conversation (read: watch conversation – I don’t talk about watches all the time!), the Tadao Ando collaboration comes up about nine out of ten times. And really, who can blame us – It’s one of the most gorgeous minimalist timepieces ever made! Up until now, I was thoroughly convinced that Bulgari couldn’t possibly create a collaboration as good – or find an artisan as good as Ando – to create another timepiece that’s worth looking at.

I’m glad to say that, as of 2024, I believe I am wrong. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso is one of the best re-interpretations of the Octo Finissimo I have ever seen. The timepiece comes with such a high horological standard that is already difficult to touch. Laurent Grasso’s unique attitude and signature touch seem to have turned that standard into gold. Or, in this case, matte PVD blue. 

At the end of the day, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso demonstrates both the talent of the Roman brand’s craftsmen and the mysterious and philosophical flair that Grasso brings to the table. I highly advise those lucky enough to see any of the 200 pieces in person to pick it up when you can – I hardly believe these will stay on shelves for long.

Reference: 104005

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 40mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 5mm thickness
• Case Material: Blue PVD titanium
• Dial: Blue with serigraphed cloud pattern
• Movement: Automatic BVL138 with micro-rotor
• Power Reserve: 60h
• Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
• Strap: Stainless steel with folding clasp

Australian RRP: AU$32,900

Availability: Limited to 200 pieces. Available online at bulgari.com.au and all authorised retailers.

For the last couple of years, Bremont has been known for their aviation-inspired watchmaking – inspired by their love for airplanes, mechanics, timepieces and a mutual appreciation of one Antoine Bremont. In just over two decades, brothers Nick and Giles English would see themselves become the face of British watchmaking. However, they had also built a reputation for building beautifully engineered, high-performance timepieces. This became most evident in 2009 with the release of the Supermarine 500, the first-ever dive watch in the Bremont lineup. Its simple design combined with ruthless practicality planted the seed for what would be Bremont’s biggest and most divisive shake-up.

With Davide Cerrato taking over the reins in 2023, it was only a matter of time until Bremont fully realised this directional shift. The release of the Terra Nova collection in 2024 marked the beginning of a new era of watchmaking for the British brand, and has been promptly followed up with an updated rendition of the Supermarine collection! Crafted for toughness in the most arduous of environments, the Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic in Jungle Green and Tactical Black mark the continuation of an ambitious new era for the Henley-Upon-Thames brand.

We’ve been privileged enough to get our hands on a plethora of Bremont timepieces, including the Martin-Baker II, the Supermarine GMT Diver, and even the recently released Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve. While many of these watches have been disruptive in their design and engineering in their own rights, this new pair of Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic timepieces may be the most disruptive of all. Standing at 43mm case diameter x 50mm lug-to-lug x 13mm thickness, the Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic is certainly a big boy, but I’m confident that a guy like me (6.3in/16.5cm wrists) could still pull it off on the NATO strap. 

The wearability would most certainly be helped by the ceramic case and PVD-treated titanium bezel, which combined make the watch head weigh a paltry 74 grams! Don’t let the lightness fool you, though – both ceramic and titanium are some incredibly tough stuff, and provide levels of scratch resistance and strength respectively that steel could only dream of touching. Two colour options are available for the Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic: The 250-piece limited edition Jungle Green, with a green gradient dial and dark green ceramic/titanium construction; and Tactical Black, which has all the same features but in a non-limited black colourway with orange accents. 

While the brand may now have a new logo and a remastered collection, the new Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic timepieces are still signature Bremont in aesthetics and engineering. For example, the new watches maintain the original Supermarine’s whopping 500m water resistance, complete with a helium escape valve. They also still keep the Super-LumiNova®-lumed indexes, as well as the 12 o’clock arrowhead index that was introduced in the 2023 Supermarine GMT. Additionally, the Cal. BE-92AV, based on the ETA2892-A2/SW300 architecture, still powers all the internal functions. Beating at the luxury standard 4Hz (28,800VpH), this reliable movement has been extensively modified to suit the Bremont manufacture’s rigorous standards, including the extension of the power reserve to 50 hours.

My Thoughts

There are already so many icons of British watchmaking out there. Legendary names like John Arnold, George Daniels, and Roger Smith are often thrown around as examples of such. However, the 21st Century has brought about a horological renaissance for those in ‘Old Blighty.’ Even more so, British watchmaking is beginning to appeal significantly more to the mainstream watch community – think Studio Underd0g or Christopher Ward – as modern tastes lean towards finding the ultimate GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watch. 

Related Reading: REVIEW: Hands-On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

For this, Bremont needs to be given a significant amount of credit where credit’s due. Before Richard Benc, Christopher Ward, Mike France, or Peter Ellis, The poetically named English brothers had begun their watchmaking journey just after the turn of the millennium. Together, they helped to revolutionise the perceived horological capabilities of the Brits, beyond their artistic archetypes, making watches that can withstand the world. Never in those days would you think that you could see an entirely British made timepiece dive 500m underwater and come out without a single issue, yet in 2009 Bremont was capable of just that!

With the release of the Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic, the Henley-Upon-Thames brand yet again pushes British watchmaking standards to the limit. With a combination of state-of-the-art craftsmanship, high-performance materials, and over 20 years of experience, Bremont has truly crafted a watch whose durability and capabilities are only limited by where the wearer dares to take it.

Reference: Jungle Green, Tactical Black

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 43mm case diameter x 50mm lug-to-lug x 13mm thickness
• Case Material: Green or black ceramic
• Dial: Green or black
• Movement: Automatic BE-92AV
• Power Reserve: 50h
• Water Resistance: 500m (50bar)
• Strap: Black NATO with hook-and-loop fastening system/Black rubber strap with quick release and pin buckle

Australian RRP: AU$11,250 (Jungle Green), AU$10,350 (Tactical Black)

Availability: Jungle Green Limited to 250 timepieces. Available now at the Bremont official website and authorised retailers.

If you recall the article I wrote covering A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary, you may remember that I included this whole preamble about how exceptional German manufacturing is. However, Lange is only half the story, and there are always two sides to a coin. 

For every A. Lange & Söhne that comes out of Germany, there is also a Sinn: Founded by Helmut Sinn in 1961, the titular brand evolved with one very German goal in mind: Efficiency. All Sinn watches, even to this day, are all created to be tools. The brand glorifies precision and robustness above all manner of superfluous things like flashiness or complexity.

However, they aren’t above flexing their design capabilities every once in a while. Not that they go over the top, but the Frankfurt-based brand is capable of creating dazzling timepieces – with the signature Sinn simplicity, of course. The Sinn 1800 S DAMASZENER, released almost ten years ago in 2015, as an example of just that. 

Damascus steel is a commodity not often explored in the watch industry, so for Sinn – a company often set in their ways – to get adventurous like this was very much unheard of, Especially since they were among one of the first mainstream brands to embrace the illustrious material. Thus, it would seem natural for Sinn to continue working in the field, seeing exactly how far they could push their craftsmanship and engineering capabilities.

In 2024, the Sinn 1800 TITANDAMASZENER is the result of Sinn’s many experiments, combining state-of-the-art technology and the traditional watchmaking methods that put them on the map in the first place. For those of you that can speak German, you may already know why this piece is so special, but bear with me as I go through the specifics. 

Standing 43mm in diameter, with a 51mm lug-to-lug, and 10.4mm thickness, the Sinn 1800 TITANDAMASZENER is by no means a small watch. If you’re like me and have small wrists, I would recommend you avoid this one. However, the aesthetics of the watch are hard to ignore. The grey and glossy blue provides a healthy amount of contrast for both legibility’s sake. 

It’ll be hard to miss those shining blue indexes and hands anywhere, and of course the boar leather strap is colour/accent-matched to boot. The Sellita SW300-1 movement serves as the ‘old reliable’ beating heart of the watch, and brings with it a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate backed by a 38h power reserve. You won’t be grading this one for finishing, though, as it’s hidden behind the solid case back, giving the 1800 TITANDAMASZENER a respectable 100m water resistance for all occasions.

Okay, I’ve danced around talking about the main feature for long enough. As the name probably suggests, the Sinn 1800 TITANDAMASZENER is similar in nature to the original 1800 S DAMASZENER. Instead of Damascus steel, however, the new timepiece is constructed entirely out of Damascus titanium. 

If you’re unfamiliar with Damascus steel, the basic gist of it is that several thin sheets of steel are layered on top of one another, heated to red-hot, folded, cut, and folded again – similar to how you’d make puff pastry or potato pavé, but with metal. The result is a stunning block of steel, with swirls and patterns inside it similar to that of carbon fiber. 

The Sinn 1800 TITANDAMASZENER has been created in the same manner, using sheets of Grade 2 and 5 titanium – but as titanium has a melting point 200𝇈C higher than steel, this never-before-seen feat of horological engineering requires unfettered access to the world’s best technology and craftsmen.

Between Sinn and Weilmünster-based Damascus specialists BALBACHDAMAST, they have both. Their combined efforts have not only resulted in an absolutely gorgeous, tough, and light watch, but have also been combined with Sinn’s signature TEGIMENT technology – a metal hardening process often only reserved for either the toughest of Sinn timepieces, or for building submarines.

My Thoughts

Sinn has always remained the definition of ‘sleeper build’ in the watch industry. Like Lange, they don’t bother to talk about how amazing they are, but instead let their watches do the talking. Generally speaking, Sinn watches aren’t often much to look at, but when you need a reliable time-teller in a pinch, you’ll be thankful you bought German.

However, one sore spot for most people will be the price. I’ve already seen a myriad of negative comments online about the AU$15,500 price tag for what is ostensibly a Sellita watch. I find myself agreeing – it certainly isn’t pocket change. But for those who have a major affinity for what Sinn do (of which there are plenty), this marks one hell of a departure from their traditional aesthetic and worthy of a pick-up. That is, if you’re one of the lucky 100 that can get one.

In any case, the new Sinn 1800 TITANDAMASZENER isn’t what I would call the exact opposite of everything they stood for. At the end of the day, it’s still a simple three-hander watch, a design they know all too well. But through the use of Damascus titanium and TEGIMENT technology, they have demonstrated once again why they are the best at what they do. When the going gets tough, the tough get going. The toughest of all, though, are made in Frankfurt.

Reference: 1800.060

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 43mm case diameter x 51mm lug-to-lug x 10.4mm thickness
• Case Material: Damascus titanium with Sinn TEGIMENT technology
• Dial: Damascus titanium with blue accents
• Movement: Automatic Sellita SW300-1
• Power Reserve: 38h
• Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
• Strap: Grey nubuck boar/black cowhide leather strap with Damascus titanium buckle

Australian RRP: AU$15,500

Availability: Limited to 100 pieces. Available online at Sinn.de or via Define Watches in Australia