In the modern world of entertainment, Jake Paul is a name that is impossible to ignore. He is a controversial influencer and entrepreneur who rose to fame through the internet trend of “vines” followed by Youtube. Jake Paul has amassed a huge following on social media for his outlandish content and for the lifestyle he displays.  

Jake Paul is more than just a social media and Youtube celebrity. He is also known for his business ventures and boxing, while also being in the spotlight for controversies and media attention. Over the years the Youtube star has expanded his career into starting his own clothing brand, while also stepping into the boxing ring. As controversial as his high-profile boxing fights may be, he has set out and achieved what he intended to do, gain internet fame, media attention and ultimately make a substantial amount of money from these ventures.  

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To put this into perspective, his latest boxing fight has been the talk of the town, with the YouTube star going up against retired professional boxer Mike Tyson. This was the first time that the subscription streaming service giant Netflix broadcasted the event live, showing just how popular and “in-demand” this fight was. Regardless of how the fight went, it’s safe to say that both boxers were the centre of attention the past few weeks to months, with Jake Paul advertising it constantly through his social media as well. This attention would have garnered more sponsors, deals and viewers for the fight, and in the end, more income for both! 

With Jake Paul striving for status and spectacle, his watch collection is no different. It is as bold and attention-grabbing as his career. He is well known for showing high-end, blinged-out timepieces (the Jacob and Co. Timepiece he wore to the Mike Tyson fight, for example). Jake Paul wears his watches to make a flashy statement.  

Jake Paul’s watch collection varies from diamond encrusted watches such as iced-out Rolexes, Audemars Piguet to Jacob and Co., to incredibly intricate and eye-catching timepieces such as the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon to the Richard Mille Abu Dhabi Special Edition.  

Jake Paul’s watch collection varies from diamond encrusted watches such as iced-out Rolexes, Audemars Piguet to Jacob and Co., to incredibly intricate and eye-catching timepieces such as the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon to the Richard Mille Abu Dhabi Special Edition.  

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Reference 26320ST Ice Out Edition

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This is a special version of Audemars Piguet’s iconic Royal Oak Chronograph, which has been customised to now be fully diamond encrusted. The case, bracelet, bezel and dial all feature diamonds, with the tri-counter’s for the chronograph remaining intact to still give the presence of the Royal Oak Chronograph sitting underneath all the shimmering glamour.  

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Vampire” Edition

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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Vampire” Edition is an attention-grabbing limited edition timepiece released as part of the brand’s Offshore collection. The watch gets its “Vampire” edition name due to its striking black and red colour scheme, which references the look a Vampire. The stainless steel case comes with a black ceramic bezel and a red rubber strap. The dial continues this black and red colour scheme with the black background contrasting against the red being used for the sub-counter hands as well as chronograph hands, along with the tachymeter scale.  

Richard Mille – RM-011 Abu Dhabi Special Edition

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This Richard Mille is exceptionally rare. The RM-011 FM sapphire Flyback Chronograph “Abu Dhabi Special Edition” was limited to only 5 timepieces. Jake Paul is fortunate to be one of the few to make the list. The watch features a sapphire crystal case with a skeletonised flyback chronograph dial. The hour indices are transparent, which plays in nicely with the sapphire crystal case. The blue colour seen throughout the timepiece is “Abu Dhabi Blue”, a colour that is also known as the speed colour.  

Cartier Two Tone Santos de Cartier Skeleton Diamonds

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It’s not every day we see a Cartier as blinged out as this, even if it is celebrity watch spotting. The Cartier Two-Tone Santos de Cartier Skeleton Diamonds is iced out to the max, with the entire watch being covered in aftermarket diamonds. The base of the timepiece is two-tone, which is 18k yellow gold for the bezel and screws, while the case and bracelet is stainless steel. The only part of this watch that doesn’t feature diamonds is the blue-steeled hands!  

Richard Mille – RM72-01 Automatic Winding Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph

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The Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle Automatic Chronograph adopts the design codes of modern-day Richard Mille’s whilst synthesizing the know-how accumulated by the brand over the past 20 years. The watch comes with the brand’s first in-house flyback chronograph, which features a patented design that is a coupling system that consists of two oscillating pinions that are mounted on rockers, which control the start, stop, flyback and reset functions.  

Richard Mille – RM11-03 ‘Ivory’

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Richard Mile’s RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ is an incredibly rare timepiece that features a 45mm case in white ceramic and titanium. The dial is skeletonised and features gold elements that make it stand out nicely. The RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ can only be purchased by brand VIP clients. It is also one of the most sought-after watches from Richard Mille, which could also be why it’s Jake Paul’s favourite timepiece, having been spotted on his wrist more times than any other watch in his collection.  

Jacob and Co. 18k White Gold Billionaire Ashoka Tourbillon

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Jacob and Co.’s latest Billionaire Ashoka Tourbillon is born out of the love Jacob Arabo (founder) has for diamonds. The Billionaire Ashoka timepiece takes everything to the next level, with a skeletonised dial and tourbillon complicaiton, the watch is entirely set with very large diamonds. The diamonds are also a special level of exclusivity, being Ashoka-cut diamonds. This cut was invented by William Goldberg and is derived from a classic emerald cut. A task of precision, the Ashoka cut gives the stone a larger appearance overall.  

Jacob and Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon

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Back in 2019, Bugatti Automobiles and Jacob and Co. entered into a partnership that would see the creation of unrivalled hypercar-inspired timepieces. The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is a masterpiece of artistic timepiece creations where it evokes the daring design and spirit of the Bugatti Chiron. The exterior shape of the Chiron inspires the case of the timepiece, while the movement references the Bugatti’s W16 engine block. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 124300 Turquoise Dial

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Released in 2020 amongst a variety of new Oyster Perpetual models with different dial colours was the stunning Turquoise dial Oyster Perpetual 124300. Nicknamed the “Tiffany Blue” dial due to the colour hue being the same as the iconic Tiffany colour, this Oyster Perpetual was incredibly popular, with many enthusiasts and collectors alike trying to get their hands on one. This is certainly one model in Jake Paul’s collection that is a bit more “down to Earth”.  

Rolex GMT Master II 18 Ct Everose Gold

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Released in 2018, Rolex’s GMT Master II in 18 Ct Everose Gold is a stunning model that’s worth over $60,000 AUD. To complement the case and bracelet, Everose gold material, the bezel features black and brown shades of ceramic. These two colours, as we know from Rolex GMT models, are used to indicate the “day” and “night” time. The material 18ct Everose gold was introduced by Rolex in 2005, which the brand has a patent for.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is presenting its third edition of the Capsule Collection, which is a meticulously curated collection of rare and sought-after timepieces created by the manufacturer. These timepieces were produced during the ‘golden age’ of watchmaking, from the 1920s to the 1970s. Jaeger-LeCoultre already unveiled two Capsule Collections last year, the first in January 2023 in Geneva and the second in June 2023 in Los Angeles, as part of the brand’s 190th-anniversary celebrations. Make sure to check out our first article on the Jager-LeCoultre’s “The Collectibles” as we take a deeper look into these first two collections!

Related Reading: Jaeger-LeCoultre “The Collectibles” Is The Rebirth Of The Brand’s Vintage Timepieces

Watch Advice had the opportunity to sit down with Mathieu Sauret (Product Marketing and Heritage Director) from Jaeger-LeCoultre in Singapore to discuss the story behind “The Collectibles” and how the third Capsule Collection will feature. The third Capsule Collection has been unveiled in Singapore as a token of appreciation for the country’s strong watch community.

The watches were unveiled at the iconic “The Warehouse Hotel” in Singapore. Matthieu Sauret flew in from Switzerland to introduce the third capsule to the Singaporean market. After the watches were introduced to the local press, a panel discussion was held between Casimir Watteau (Managing Director of South East Asia and Oceania for Jaeger-LeCoultre), Matthieu Sauret, and local vintage watch expert Shawn Tan.

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This third Capsule Collection features ten exceptional timepieces curated for avid watch collectors. For those who may not know, Jaeger-LeCoultre released “The Collectibles” for those collectors who wish to acquire one of La Grande Maison’s most emblematic timepieces. It was also conceived for those enthusiasts who wanted to deepen their knowledge of a period where the watches created were significant in the advancement of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the world of horology.

Matthieu Sauret

“Initially, we felt the need to create a collector’s book. We felt the need to write the story of each of the watches and it started to look like chapters, and since we didn’t really have a collectors book, we felt we should start this endeavour. So there was a lot of discussion around the selection of the timepeices, because we have created so many timepeices in our history and collections, very interesting collections too. So we decided to create a collection of the most interesting and collectible timepieces in our history.“

“We ended up choosing seventeen watches, and really, with this idea of collectability and the most interesting to collect. Therefore we came up with the name “The Collectibles” from Jaeger-LeCoultre. We felt that with all the chapters of different timepieces, it could also become a book. At the same time, we buy watches for the museum and the exhibitions we have worldwide. Several watches on the upper market should be auctioned with dealers and whatnot, and there are some watches that we already own, maybe several models in perfect condition for museum condition. But we always see new ones coming up in auctions around the world, so we felt maybe we could buy those timepeices, and when we already have a very good model in our books, we can put it for sale in this concept of “The Collectibles” along with the book.“

“From the 17 models in the book, we sell the 17 that come up for sale! We do a full restoration of them, we don’t touch the outer part of the timepiece, so that we can keep the vintage aspect intact, we keep it unpolished, we don’t change the hands unless they are too worn off, we don’t change the dial and so on. Still, we do a complete cleaning, dismantling, and reassembling the calibre movement. These watches that are maybe 60 or 70 years old are good to live a long life again, and people who want to buy them can enjoy a museum timepiece in their collection, which is very important for us and makes a lot of sense.”

The Collectibles series has seventeen watches in total. The brand chose the number seventeen specifically because these were some of the significant timepieces that made history for Jaeger-LeCoultre or watchmaking as a whole, created during the period defined as the “golden era” of watchmaking. Each timepiece that is part of “The Collectibles” has its own distinctive style, which stems from the period it was created in.

The third Capsule Collection features ten timepieces that range from rarely-seen interpretations of the Reverso and Memovox with eye-catching dials to classic examples. This Capsule Collection also features more highly sought-after models like the Master Mariner Deep Sea from 1970 and the Triple Calendar from 1945. Another timepiece that stands out in this collection is the Powermatic. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Powermatic was known for its reliability, beauty and the power-reserve indicator on the dial.

Matthieu Sauret

“In regards to the selection number, we didn’t plan to do exactly 17 models; we started with the list, and we ended up on 17, because all these watches that span from the late 1920s to the late 1970s represent a time period where its called the “golden age” of fine watchmaking where watches were designed by hand without computer editing tools etc. Watches were worn and made for a reason, such as telling time; there was no digital tool that could tell time during this “golden age” period.”

“The 17 pieces were selected basically from 3 important criteria. The first one was the “historical importance” of the manufacture of Jaeger-LeCoultre and watchmaking as a whole. For example, we created a generation of watches when you see the Reverso. The second is the watchmaking pedigree. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker, so it’s quite important to have agreeable watchmaking content, and all of them, in a way, represent a watchmaking first or a decisive moment for watchmaking in the watchmaking pedigree. The third element was the design element that the watch represents. All of the chosen models represent a period of style and design that was important in the history of mechanical watchmaking. All of this makes these watches go down in history, interesting for collectors to buy because they are unusual. They bring out something, and they have changed the history of not only Jaeger-LeCoultre but also watchmaking as a whole.”

For Jaeger-LeCoultre, the hunt for vintage timepieces is not only for The Collectibles series but also for the museum in the Manufacture. Finding vintage timepieces is all in the thrill of the chase. Sometimes you may come across some incredible and rare timepieces in places that you may also least expect. Its also the case of having a great network that you can rely on when a rare Jaeger-LeCoultre piece pops up, they are able to notify you and jump on the chance.

Matthieu Sauret

“The beauty of what we do and buying watches for museums is that you never know what you are going to find. Because watches come up for auction, you cannot look for something particular; just have to be aware and have a lot of people be in touch with you and have a good relationship with everybody, so when they spot something amazing when the pieces go up for sale or auction. Sometimes, you find a time capsule that takes you through what this watch is, what this watch is made for, and who owned it, so it’s really a travel through time, and you are never really sure when and how you are going to find it. So, all the watches that are here for sale in Singapore represent a story behind each piece. But the beauty is not only just sort of newer stock; it’s also with watches that are 70 or 80 years of age that have aged beautifully with time. And some of these watches will have a patina that will bring more beauty in the design. So, it’s a time capsule within each watch being sold.”

When The Collectibles first started, it was a way for Jaeger-LeCoultre to increase awareness and knowledge about the history of their timepieces. While some collectors know of the historical value of the timepiece they may hold, and, in turn, may want to sell it back to Jaeger-LeCoultre, most of the time, it has been the case of the owner not knowing they have such an interesting timepiece on their hands. They watch could have been passed down from generation to generation as some of these timepeices can be more than 80 years old!

Matthieu Sauret

“What has happened the most is that a lot of collectors have really interesting watches, but they may not think that it’s that interesting or valuable when they purchase them on the spur of the moment. After they learn the history of this watch and they find out that its a whole other world, and they find it to be fascinating. It’s also the case that the collectors that might have wanted to sell the timepiece, after finding out about the history of the watch, actually want to keep it now and get it serviced, at least for the calibre to enjoy the watch much longer. This has definitely been something that has been like a side-effect of the project. This was the goal from the beginning: to get people interested in the watches and to learn the timepiece’s story.”

Just for clarification, The Collectibles only feature 17 historical Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces. This means that from 1920 to 1980, Jaeger-LeCoultre found 17 references that, as mentioned earlier, have either a historical significance for the brand or the world of horology, or have a unique design that belongs to the specific time period it was created in. From these 17 references, Jaeger-LeCoultre will hunt down as many as possible, to which they will then put them towards a “Capsule Collection”. These Capsule Collections will feature different versions of the 17 references; however, they won’t feature all 17 at once. It can be the same reference from the original 17 models, but perhaps in different materials or dial colours.

Matthieu Sauret

“So we cater to only 17 models, and among the 17 models we offer in each capsule collection, what we found is that each timepiece of that particular reference can be quite unique and quite different. Within the Reverso for example, there is an array of different dials, and there is different case materials, some cases for ladies, some for men. Even within those 17 models, it also shows the wide array and inspiration of Jaeger-LeCoultre in those years to create really amazing watches with different iterations of the same reference model.”

“Collectors have always been driven by different interests, so I think all the models that we have shown have captured attention. I suppose one of the things that comes to mind is the Memovox. It’s a calibre that is present among several models, but one that stands out is the deep sea alarm. It’s the first diving watch of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and it was the first diving watch in the world with an alarm. They are very rare, and we have never offered one in a capsule because they are very hard to find. So this is certainly a model that has captured the attention of people a lot, and when we do the capsule collections, we always try to bring the Museum pieces along so people can see that what we sell is really museum-worthy quality.”

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Restoring Vintage timepieces is certainly no easy task. However, jaeger-LeCoultre have been fortunate enough to be doing restoration works for over 40 years. When Watch Advice had the opportunity to take a Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture tour, we saw some parts of the facility where restoration of vintage timepeices occur, with several watchmakers hard at work! Through these restoration works, it also gives you a deeper appreciation for the timepieces, and Jaeger-LeCoultre rich and extension history.

Matthieu Sauret

“You know we at Jaeger_LeCoultre were very lucky because first, we have been doing restoration works for over 40 years, and all the watches we feature in this Collectibles collection are born from the Manufacture. We were established in 1833, and all the watches that we are selling in Singapore for the third capsule collection have calibres that have been manufactured within the company. So all the watches that came have been assembled within our walls. So, we not only have the plans, all the calibres, information, and some of the vintage parts, but We also have the knowledge that has been passed on from watchmaker to watchmaker. Restoration is still a challenge, of course, because the calibres are vintage and historic, but it’s not something that we haven’t done before. In a way, these watches are “coming back home”, so it makes it a bit easier for us to work on them.”

The three different Capsule Collections in The Collectibles have all had three different locations in which they were unveiled, and watch aficionados, collectors, and clients could see these special vintage watches up close. The first Capsule Collection was unveiled in Geneva in January 2023, while the second Capsule Collection was showcased mid-way through last year in Los Angeles. Now, this third and latest Capsule Collection is being shown in Asia in Singapore, a country in which Jaeger-LeCoultre has seen a lot of love, especially in regards to their vintage timepieces.

Even though the third Capsule Collection is being unveiled in Singapore, this doesn’t mean that the sale of these vintage timepieces is restricted. The whole collection is up for purchase online, which means that it gives buyers the possibility of owning a Jaeger-LeCoultre Capsule Collection timepiece regardless of where you are in the world!

Matthieu Sauret

“So each time we present a Capsule timepiece, we put it for sale, and it goes really quickly. Unfortunately, we never have enough. We have many more requests than we can offer watches, and on the two first Capsule Collections, we have a lot of sales from around the world. In Asia, there are a lot of sales. Singapore was one of the markets that captured a lot of attention. So when we discussed about having one capsule revealed in Asia, we chose Singapore. It’s a place that I feel has people who are very into vintage watches, and interest is high in collectible pieces. We wanted to do a celebration for Singapore for the love they have shown towards this project!”

“And yes, the collection is available to everyone! We’ll, of course, accommodate a digital preview of the piece if a client is interested, but yeah, we wanted to keep a global view of the Collectibles project and be able to share this around the world and not just selective to just one area, even though we have this nice exhibition here in Singapore and people are able to view it in person. The idea was to travel but also be available around the world as it is very important for us that everybody has a chance to buy this kind of timepiece, not just be restricted to one country or territory.“

When The Collectibles venture started, it certainly bought a lot of demand for Jaeger-LeCoultre vintages back into the spotlight. With demand for certain vintage models being high, its a point to consider whether the brand may release a modern re-interpretation for that particular historical reference, much like how other Swiss brands have done it.

But Jaeger-LeCoultre doesn’t see it this way. The modern collections are rather a “continuation” of the historical timepieces, and The Collectibles collections bridge the gap between historic timepieces and modern re-interpretations. In a way, this is the brand offering a modern interpretation of a historical reference by keeping much of the timepiece in the same design as when it was released and only changing what’s required to keep it ticking.

Matthieu Sauret

“Jaeger-LeCoultre always works with the past. Every creation that we have has some inspiration from our history, and when we make watches, it’s a continuation of our past creations, so I would be more inclined to talk about continuity rather than bringing back a model from the past. In our range of watches, for example, we have the Reverso along with the Polaris, which are all part of The Collectibles. Still, it’s more of a continuation of the line rather than simply a reproduction of an original model. For this, we have The Collectibles, whereby you can buy a vintage piece and a reproduction of a vintage timepiece with modern technology.“

“I think the beauty and fun of watchmaking is that you have watches here that are almost 80 years of age, and they still can be worn and operate beautifully, and I think that’s the beauty of fine watchmaking. Something that is extremely timeless that you are going to be able to wear for your entire life and also be able to pass it to your kids. So I think watchmaking with this essence is extremely beautiful, and “The Collectibles” adds to this timelessness of watchmaking.“

So this all begs the question, what is the main benefit of buying through Jaeger-LeCoultre, rather than buying it straight from the vintage market or through auction? The main obvious answer is that through Jaeger-LeCoultre, you aren’t just simply getting a historical timepiece. You are getting a watch that’s part historical and slightly modern. The timepiece has been restored where required (mainly the calibre movement) to keep the watch operational while keeping the design and vintage appearance of the timepiece intact.

Buying the watches through these Capsule Collections also offers the buyer protection incase the watch needs maintenance or if anything was to go wrong. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers buyers a two-year warranty, which gives confidence in knowing that it can be taken back to Jaeger-LeCoultre to be repaired free of charge. This is certainly not something you’ll get through the vintage watch market.

Matthieu Sauret

“So the brand is curated and working on curation, so we see several dozen watches every day that are going to auction, so our knowledge or our ability to find very rare pieces helps with finding these rare pieces. Sometimes, finding these watches can be a service, and we see it as such, but we, of course, encourage people to hunt the watches for themselves. If you want a service provided to you, then we can do it. It’s also in terms of the knowledge. We bring out the knowledge of the watches, and then maybe you go out into the market and find a similar watch. You can always send it back to the Manufacture for restoration, as this is something we offer and enjoy doing.”

“The auction market is full of great watches, and “The Collectibles” is a great way to shed light on the great history of fine watchmaking. It’s a way to tell the history of the La Grande Maison and watchmaking as a whole. But it’s also a way to highlight the beauty and the interest of collectors in going and hunting for pieces. So we really encourage you to do it alongside us!“

“All the watches in “The Collectibles” are sold with a new box and a new strap. We also feature instruction and an extract from the archives done by our expert watchmakers, which tells the year of the production, the exact reference model, the metals used, and the name of the calibre, alongside other useful information. Also, we gift a book of The Collectibles, the official collector’s book in this venture, as part of the purchase.”

When one gets involved this closely with a project like this, it can be quite difficult not to get caught up in the interest of it all and want to own a vintage timepiece. With so many different pieces that come through the Manufacture, each with its own story, not only about the timepiece but also about its ownership, each individual timepiece is unique. For Mathieu, however, this isn’t the case, as he has to refrain from buying watches for private ownership that can form part of The Collectibles or even go towards the Jaeger-LeCoultre museum.

Matthieu Sauret

“So for the sake of the project, I refrain from getting any vintage timepieces that are part of The Collectibles collection, I’m more into “young timers” which are like 1990 watches. Of course, when you work on a project like this, you cannot be a part of it privately also. But it has certainly developed my love for vintage watches immensely. I first wrote The Collectibles book with my team through lengthy research. I was also involved in the process of being able to buy these hidden gem watches for not only the museum but also for The Collectibles collection.“

“It’s definitely a hunt; it’s very adrenaline-driven to sort of go on a quest to find those nice watches. And when they come up, when you receive them for restoration, it’s always amazing to see, and when you present them to collectors, you are also enjoying the moment and sharing the love of the Jaeger-LeCoultre. The whole company embarked on this project, and I think it’s wonderful to have the whole team behind it because a lot of people who work on the new watches at the manufacturer probably didn’t know all the stories of the watches also themselves. They knew some stories we didn’t, so there were many rich knowledge exchanges.”

“But buying vintage watches and following the vintage market, it’s crazy how some gems have been there forever and been worn, and sometimes they come up, and the person wearing them didn’t know how rare or extraordinary the timepiece was! So when they realise they are actually owning a timeless watch with significance in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history, its exciting to see!“

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The Collectibles – Capsule #3 Timepieces

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Small Seconds

Reference: QVE20100
Details: 39 x 21 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 69,500
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Parking

Reference: QVE85802
Details: 34 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 36,500
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner Deep Sea Barracuda

Reference: QVE55802
Details: 40 x 37 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 44,700
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris II

Reference: QVE87002
Details: 50 x 43 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Automatic Calendar

Reference: QVE85504
Details: 37 mm – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 82,500
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duopan Coulissante

Reference: QVEDUO01
Details: Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 36,500
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Lady’s Watch

Reference: QVE64000
Details: Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 73,000
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Powermatic

Reference:  QVERASC2
Details: 33 mm – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 32,900
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Lady

Reference: QVE50101
Details: 16 x 33 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar

Reference: QVE27210
Details: 35 MM – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au

Third Capsule Collection Location

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s third Capsule Collection will be available for viewing from October 13th to 23rd at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Official Boutique in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore.

Address

2 Bayfront Avenue
B2M-231 & 231A, Casino Level
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
018972 Singapore – Singapore

Opening Hours

Monday: 10:30 – 22:00
Tuesday: 10:30 – 22:00
Wednesday: 10:30 – 22:00
Thursday: 10:30 – 22:00
Friday: 10:30 – 23:00
Saturday: 10:30 – 23:00
Sunday: 10:30 – 22:00

For more information, please head to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Collectibles website!

WOLF is celebrating its 190th anniversary in style, going through their rich history to bring a modern interpretation of what made the brand iconic. WOLF was founded in 1834 by Philipp Wolf I in the Silver District in Hanau, Germany. The brand first started with high-quality jewellery boxes, then transitioned into also making watch winders, safes and watch boxes. WOLF’s products offer a combination of function and aesthetic beauty, thanks to the brand’s reputation for meticulous craftsmanship, attention to detail and innovation.

WOLF’s remarkable 190-year history is made up of five generations of family ownership that bring forth craftsmanship and innovation. Each generation contributes to the evolution of the brand and, in some cases, the brand’s survival during turbulent times.

The story of how Philipp Wolf I started the brand in 1834 goes that, as a silversmith by trade, he discovered that his silver jewellery sold better when presented in attractive boxes. As he started working more and more with the presentation boxes, he Philipp Wolf I realised there was more value in the beautiful presentation. He then shifted his focus to creating high-quality jewellery boxes and hence, laid the foundation for the inception of the WOLF company.

Each of the five generations has its own unique story in WOLF’s timeline. In celebrating the its 190-year history, WOLF will be releasing different products that represent the very essence of each generation, with each of these modern products being a reference to that generations unique creation.

“To say that I am proud of what we, as a company, have achieved would be a big understatement.
The business has continued for 5 generations, 190 years, with many ups and downs, but always
with a singular vision of making great product and taking care of the people who work in the
company. I am humbled by how hard they work and care, it is an honour to work with such
dedicated people. The future looks very exciting…here’s to the next 190 years!”
Simon Wolf, CEO, WOLF

Philipp Christoph Wolf I – The Silversmith (1836-1896) (First Generation)

The story of WOLF begins in 1834, when one simple concept from the visionary founder Philipp Wolf I brings about the company’s creation.

“It is logical to protect one’s possessions by storing and safeguarding them in a fine quality case.”

As mentioned previously, Philipp was a silversmith by trade. He made many different items in silver, including jewellery and cutlery. Then, he also started making boxes so as to present his stunning silver items. He created presentation boxes for his silver goods for some time until he realised that he was doing something that hadn’t really been done before. This is how presentation boxes first started! Upon releasing the value of these presentation boxes, he stopped his silversmith business to concentrate full-time on making boxes for his fellow jewellers.

Silver Watch Jewellery and Legacy Box

As a celebration of the first generation in WOLF’s history, the brand released a silver-plated box with an engine-turned exterior pattern. The box also has a beautiful piano-hinged lid. The inside of the silver box has a rich, deep blue LusterLocTM Ultrasuede lining. The interior also comes with two suspended watch cufs, ring slots, multiple small compartments for jewellery, pens, cufflinks and other small accessories. This jewellery box can be customisable, as it has multiple trays that can be completely removed to use as keepsake box.

Reference: 190001
Size: 25cm length x 20cm wide x 7cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $785

Ida Wilhelmina Theresia Peterzon – The Traveller (1889 – 1991) (Second Generation)

Ida Wilhelmina Theresia Peterzon played a significant role in WOLF’s 190-year history. Not only was she a “travelling salesman” for the company, her efforts actually kept the company afloat as it went through a turbulent time in its history.

Philipp Wolf II was an accomplished box-maker who moved to Sweden in 1895. Fifteen years later, in 1910, he married the love of his life, Ida Wilhelmina Peterzon. A few years later, Philipp went through a huge amount of psychological trauma as he tragically lost two of their five children to the Spanish flu and the Rickets. This loss became too much to bear for Philipp, who retreated from his work and life. Sadly, due to the profound mental issues, he passed away in 1946.

With Philipp unable to work, Ida Wilhelmina Peterzon stepped up and took it upon herself to take the reins of the business so that she could support the love of her life and their three children: Philipp Wolf III, his brother Ernst and sister Anna-Lisa. This certainly was no easy task, as Ida would travel large distances across Sweden and Scandinavia by rail and horse-drawn carriage to sell the products that the factory could make, all stored in a large wooden banded trunk. This sheer will and determination to take care of her family is also what kept the WOLF business alive, highlighting a difficult but also a time of perseverance in the brand’s history pages.

IDA Trunk Jewellery Box

In reference to the large wooden banded trunk she used to carry around to sell the company’s products, WOLF has created an IDA Trunk Jewellery Box to celebrate the second generation of the brand’s history. The trunk features numerous draws and compartments. It also comes with wooden runners and brass hardware, while the exterior is made up of a recycled striped canvas in luxurious muted tones.

Reference: 190041
Size: 28cm length x 21.5cm wide x 22cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $1,415

Philipp Wolf III – The Fisherman (1911-1993) (Third Generation)

Ida Wilhelmina Peterzon and Philipp Wolf II’s son, Philipp Wolf III, would eventually follow in the footsteps of his parents to take over the reins of WOLF. Those around him deemed him as a visionary.

Philipp Wolf III developed numerous new production techniques and processes at the WOLF factory in Malmo, Sweden. He was also the first to invent the iconic musical pirouetting ballerina box, which, as we know, would go on to become one of the most famous jewellery boxes in the world.

Philipp Wolf III also went on to buy the Hastad Mill near Lund, Sweden, in 1948. The mill was where he created the Swedish Salmon and Trout Association. The other side of Philipp III was that he deeply cared about the environment long before the term “climate change” came about. He could see the drastic effects that farming and humans in general were having on the ecosystem and environment, especially the health of the rivers, fish and waterways. His responsibility to make the world a better place is what has been carried onto the future generations of WOLF.

Ballet – Swan Lake Musical Jewellery Box

As a celebration of the third generation of WOLF family and ownership for this 190th anniversary, the brand has created the the Ballet Swan Lake Musical Jewellery Box. This has been created using inspiration from the original WOLF turning ballerina jewellery box, which now features a wooden inlay exterior pattern which is based on the workmanship of Ida’s vintage writing box.

Inside the box is its true beauty. We are treated to a grand theatre-inspired layout with one large and seven small individual jewellery compartments. These are all handmade from wood and have WOLF’s patented LusterLoc^TM ultra suede lining in the beautiful midnight blue.

Behind the ballet dancer, sold as two custom-sculpted interchangeable dancers with different skin tones, is a custom scallop-edged mirror surrounded by embroidery inspired by Swan Lake. The embroidery depicts a tree and lake silhouette designed by Fiona Howard. To bring the ballet dancer to life with the music of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake to life, simply wind the box with the silver “W” key and open the box!

Reference: 190106
Size: 26cm length x 20cm wide x 9cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $785

Philipp Wolf IV – The Aviator (Fourth Generation)

Philipp Wolf IV was born in 1936, and when he was ready, he took to the box business, helping his father by making samples and spending time at the factory. Philipp IV also had a love for the aircraft, as he would spend hours gazing at the aircraft Sturup airfield. His passion for the technical and mechanical came to full light when he took the reins of WOLF.

Philipp IV moved to England in 1960 and met a woman named Judie, whom he would marry after a week of knowing each other! Now that he was based in the UK, he was given the “green light” by his father to build a factory. A box production would be completed in Llanelli, South Wales in 1968, with the factory covering almost 100,000 square feet.

Phillipp Wolf IV’s passion for flying would also come to fruition. He obtained his private pilot license at a young age, and living in the UK, he take his beloved Beechcraft Staggerwing D17S from Biggin Hill to the WOLF factory in Wales, which would save hours spent driving on the road. Through his aerial journey, he would often take supplies and even customers!

Philipp WOLF IV – The Aviator

The brand is releasing the Philipp Wolf IV The Aviator to celebrate the fourth generation of WOLF history. This jewellery box is inspired by the original box designed by Philipp Wolf IV in the 1970s. The Aviator retains the classic 1970s vintage styling, with a modern twist to it. The jewellery box comes with a rich brown vegan leather and beige nubuck exterior. The Design Philipp “DP” iconic logo is done in gold finish, which matches beautifully with the leather.

The interior of the jewellery box comes with a LusterLoc^TM lining, that has a darker conker brown concertina stationery storage, snap close pocket and space to store a WOLF credit card case (not supplied). The jewellery box also features suspended watch cuf, removable covered keepsake tray, cufflink/ring tray and large scoop tray.

Reference: 190206
Size: 30cm length x 20cm wide x 10cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $785

Simon Philip Wolf V – The Designer (Fifth Generation)

The WOLF we know today is run by Simon Philip Wolf V, who joined the business in 1985 working alongside his father. He gained experience in the business by first working in the factory and understanding sample making and factory production. The economy and WOLF business was flourishing in England. So it was the perfect time to tackle the USA and Canadian markets.

Simon’s father, Philipp IV, guided him as he was sent on a business trip to America to face one of their biggest challenges. As with any new market, there was some initial turbulence, but Simon persevered and eventually flourished, spending 30 years in America before heading back to the UK in 2021.

Just like his grandfather, Philipp Wolf III, Simon would also focus on looking after the Earth. He has developed many sustainability initiatives, including the WOLF’s latest project, the Positive Luxury Butterfly Mark. Simon is now the driving force behind WOLF, managing a team of more than 60 people across the globe. He is both the Creative Director and CEO, from WOLF to the future, with design, innovation and sustainability at its very core.

Earth

To celebrate the latest generation, WOLF is releasing a host of products in three different colourways from nature: blue, green and brown. With sustainability being the main focus of the collection, the Earth range features single, double and triple watch winders, a watch stand box, 10-piece watch boxes and a triple watch roll.

The watch winders all come with WOLF’s patented technology Turns Per Day, Return to Start and Lock-in Dynamic Cuf, and also for the first time in WOLF’s smaller winders, Bluetooth control via WOLF APP. Earth has an apple leather exterior and recycled satin jacquard lining in a WOLF Signature pattern. Coloured matte metallic hardware with a custom circular lock finishes the look.

Single Watch Winder

Reference: 190341, 190306, 190317
Size: 19.5cm length x 20.5cm wide x 12cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $1,575

Double Watch Winder

Reference: 190441, 190406, 190417
Size: 33.5cm length x 20.5cm wide x 23cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $2,845

Triple Watch Winder

Reference: 190341, 190306, 190317
Size: 45.5cm length x 20.5cm wide x 12cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $4,115

Triple Watch Roll

Reference: 190641, 190606, 190617
Size: 19.5cm length x 8.5cm wide x 8.5cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $465

Watch Stand Box

Reference: 190741, 190706, 190717
Size: 26.5cm length x 26.5cm wide x 12cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $785

5PC Watch Box

Reference: 190941, 190906, 190917
Size: 33cm length x 26.5cm wide x 12cm height.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $1,255

In January 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated its 190th anniversary in style by introducing “The Collectibles” collection. This is the brand’s way of restoring its vintage timepieces from the 1920s to 1970s, the golden age of watchmaking. As we know, Jaeger-LeCoultre created some impressive-looking timepieces with equally impressive movements during this period, so bringing some of this history back into the modern world of horology is certainly special.

“The Collectibles provides a unique service to enthusiasts and fine watches collectors who wish to acquire a piece of history from La Grande Maison. The Collectibles presents a meticulously curated capsule collection of rare and sought-after timepieces representing high-water marks for both Jaeger-LeCoultre and 20th-century watchmaking.”

When I was in Switzerland for Geneva Watch Days recently, I had the opportunity to visit Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture with the Watch Advice team, where we were given a tour of their facilities and all things watchmaking. One of the sections of the Manufacture was the archives. In this section we say almost everything related to the brand’s history, including their vintage timepieces. This is one area of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture that certainly stood out, as we were indeed incredibly lucky to see these vintage watches up close.

Related Reading: A Day Out At The Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture

As we went through the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture, we also saw where the watch restoration of vintage pieces was done. This shows that Jaeger-LeCoultre already has the means and capability to carry out restoration works. It is said that there are 10 specialised restoration watchmakers at the Manufacture. These watchmakers have access to all the necessary parts to restore the vintage timepieces. We were given a brief snippet into this through our visit to the archives, where we saw a whole shelf of spare parts of historic Jaeger-LeCoultre movements and cases. Even if the spare part of a historic Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre movement doesn’t exist, the restoration watchmakers will certainly be able to create a new one.

So, seeing Jaeger-LeCoultre bring some of its historic models back to life is more than simply restoring vintage timepieces. They are bringing back a piece of history, with watches that not only defined their own watchmaking, but playing a pivitol role in the history of horology.

“Scarcity, desirability, condition. The three reasons behind the thrill of the chase. Pursuing a rare vintage piece can sometimes escalate into a genuine quest.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre is releasing these vintage timepieces through what’s called “Capsule Collections”. As mentioned earlier, the first of these Capsule Collections was unveiled in January last year, and it featured 12 timepieces that were restored and could be bought. As a part of this Capsule Collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre also released a book called “The Collectibles”, which featured all the references that were up for potential restoration. I say potential because the book has seventeen references in total, while only twelve were part of the first Capsule Collection. The reason why Jaeger-LeCoultre didn’t restore all seventeen at the time was because they were not able to source perfect examples of the five remaining timepieces.

In June 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the second series of the Capsule Collection in Los Angeles, this time offering eleven historic timepieces for sale. If you look at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s website now, you’ll see that every single one of the historic pieces from the Capsule Collections has been sold, which is not a big surprise, even with some of the said watches fetching over AU$50,000.

The watches that form the two Capsule Collections include some of the most iconic timepieces from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s extensive history. Watches like the 1933 Reverso, Duoplan Jewellery, the Triple Calendar, Futurematic, the Deep Sea and a fair few Memovox timepieces. The watches in the Capsule Collections vary in style and design, showcasing the different Jaeger-LeCoultre collections. Below are twelve timepieces we picked from the two Capsule Collections!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duoplan Jewellery

When the partnership between Jaeger and LeCoultre first started, they created a timepiece called the Duoplan, which was an industry revolution at the time. The timepiece was the groundwork for both Jaeger and LeCoultre to impress the world of horology with their creative and beautiful designs. The creation of the Duoplan also allowed LeCoultre & Cie to go from a movement manufacturer to a full-time watch manufacturer.

1933 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Special Edition Rouge

This ultra-thin Reverso paid tribute to the historic original Reverso 201 model, which houses an extra-slim calibre 822 movement. The special thing about this timepiece was the standout red lacquer rouge dial, which was certainly an uncommon sight in the era of the Great Depression in which it was released.

1946 Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Triple Calendar was created in the early 1940s and features a classic horological complication. It was created with timeless elegance in mind while also bearing useful function, bringing together form and function. It was one of the first complications designed explicitly for a series-produced wristwatch, it has left an indelible imprint on the history of the Manufacture, but also on the history of watchmaking as a whole.

1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic

As part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 125th anniversary celebrations in 1958, the brand released three timepieces, one of which was the Geophysic. As Jaeger-LeCoultre states, “The objective was to produce “a watch model able to withstand even the toughest conditions and meet the highest standards, particularly in terms of water resistance, anti-magnetism, and precision timing. “Subsequently, it became a symbol of excellence for the Manufacture.

1957 Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic

Nicknamed the “Porthole,” the Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic was created in the 1950s. It was a watch that was well ahead of its time, hence the name “Futurematic.” The watch came with no crown but rather an adjustable wheel found on the case back to adjust the time as needed. The dial also featured two “portholes,” with the 3 o’clock porthole indicating the seconds, while the 9 o’clock porthole indicates the power reserve.

1961 Jaeger-LeCoultre Geomatic Chronometer

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geomatic Chronometer was an inspired creation from the brand’s Geophysic timepiece. At the time of it’s creation in 1961, the Geomatic brought together all the knowledge of the watchmakers from the Vallée de Joux. The watch was incredibly precise, symbolising the ultimate combination of state-of-the-art technology and understated elegance, all thanks to the timepiece’s chronometer-certified movement.

1968 Jaeger-LeCoultre Deepsea Barracuda

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deepsea Barracuda was launched in 1968 in response to the popularity of deep-sea diving watches. The Barracuda can be easily recognised thanks to the truncated tonneau case and the inner sporty diving bezel, which measures diving times. As highlighted by the Master Mariner and Deep Sea signatures at 6 o’clock, a symbol of its rich legacy, it is the perfect union of style and performance.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Small Seconds

This Reverso Small Seconds was released during a time when white and silver-toned dials were the norm, making it stand out beautifully. Jaeger-LeCoultre was one of the few Maisons to offer coloured dials, giving timepieces like the Reverso added character. Even though the Reverso was made in coloured dials, colours like red, brown and blue were made on request, making the timepiece even more rare.

1970 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris II

Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Polaris II in 1970, with the timepiece representing a clear difference in design and style from the previous versions of the Polaris. The timepiece featured iconic 1970s design cues, such as the bright colours and the large case size with rounded shapes. The Polaris II also came with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest developed movement calibre, giving the Polaris a totally new look.

1970s Jaeger-LeCoultre “Shark” Deep Sea

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Shark Deep Sea was created on the back of Maison’s successful diving watches produced since 1959. This deep sea timepiece, however, was unlike anything Jaeger-LeCoultre had created before. The timepiece came with two core features that made it stand out from any other divining watch on the market at the time. The first was the chronograph, which was a first for Jaeger-LeCoutlre for a diving watch. The second was the bezel interchangeability, allowing you to change the bezel from diving and telemeter to world time (featured in the picture above).

1972 Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Speed Beat GT

The Memovox Speed Beat GT was released in 1972, with the timepiece being produced only for that year. Jaeger-LeCoultre called “Speed Beat GT” because of the size of the oval case (GT stands for Grande Taille), while Speed Beat is meant for the high-frequency movement that’s beating inside. As stated in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 1970s ad, “For the man who lives a busy and fast-paced life, the Memovox Speed Beat GT is the perfect companion.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre Automatic “Lapis”

An iconic timepiece in Jaeger-LeCoultre history is the Automatic “Lapis.” The watch was nicknamed “Lapis Lazuli” by enthusiasts and collectors alike due to the blue-coloured dial and the pattern in which the lacquer has been applied to create subtle nuances on its surface. This gives the dial an aesthetic appearance of ornamental stone. The beauty of this dial is that due to how lacquer is applied, it gives varying shades of sky blue, navy blue and black, meaning that each Automatic Lapis timepiece will have a different appearance. This makes the timepiece unique, and in the case of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “Collectibles”, a highly prized find for collectors and enthusiasts.

Third Capsule Collection

Jaeger-LeCoultre will continue its Collectibles project with the unveiling of the third Capsule Collection, which will be released soon. While it’s unclear as to exactly which vintage timepieces will be on display, what we can certainly expect from the brand’s previous Capsule Collections is that they will have played a vital importance in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history. If you want to be among the first to see which timepieces will be part of the third Capsule Collection, sign up for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newsletter here!

At the start of September, I had the amazing opportunity to visit the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture for a tour. During this visit, I also had the chance to take the brand’s Stellar Odyssey Workshop. Being in the Manufacture, I got to experience all things Jaeger-LeCoultre. We were shown the finer details in the art of watchmaking and how Jaeger-LeCoutlre, one of the oldest watch manufacturers in continuous production, has shaped the world of horology.

Related Reading: A Day Out At The Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture!

The first part of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture visit took me and the rest of the Watch Advice team straight into the Stellar Odyssey Workshop. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Stellar Odyssey Workshop Experience is more than just an exploration of watchmaking. It takes us on a journey through the cosmos, bringing together centuries of horological creations and celestial phenomena that have inspired timekeeping.

The Stellar Odyssey workshop offers a rare glimpse into the brand’s deep-rooted connection to astronomical complications. Time transforms into an art form shaped by the stars’ movement and different moon cycle phases. It also offers an insight into the birth of timekeeping, with how the first pocket watches with astral complications were created and how the first calendars were derived!

Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Stellar Odyssey Workshop into the Manufacture tour back in 2022. Since then, it has transformed into an immersive experience that you have to sometimes book months in advance, due to its rising popularity. The workshop caters to up to eight people and is usually run by two team members from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture. One team member will take you through the immersive experience of the Stellar Odyssey Workshop, and the other is a watchmaker who will explain the finer details of the complications.

The Stellar Odyssey Workshop is located in the Atelier d’Antoine room of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture. As we entered the room, I felt like I was walking into a piece of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history, especially how beautifully the room was designed. The Atelier d’Antoine room had plenty of natural light thanks to the large windows, and the windows also gave a view of the beautiful scenery of Vallée de Joux, where Jaeger-LeCoultre is located.

The Atelier d’Antoine room is a mix of very modern and traditional interior design, which, in a way, references not only Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking but also the Stellar Odyssey workshop, where historic complications are still found in modern-day timepieces. On the beautifully polished white table that takes centre stage of the Atelier d’Antoine room, I saw several of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s timepieces that included astronomical complications, along with several astral time clocks that will be used in the Stellar Odyssey Workshop presentation later on.

As the Jaeger-LeCoultre team introduced themselves and we made ourselves comfortable, we were given a presentation on the importance of astronomy and how it has guided humans to create calendars and timekeeping machines. The presentation started by discussing the watches on the table and how they all featured some astrological complication, whether it was moon phase, perpetual calendar, or even the shooting star complication!

We were then taken on a journey of celestial watchmaking, where we learned how astrology played a major role in the invention of time and calendars. One part of the presentation focused on building an accurate calendar and how many of the early calendars had irregularities, with leap years and months of differing lengths. This indeed presented a complex problem for watchmakers, as you would need a highly complex system of gears to account for all the irregular events that would occur.

One of the first calendars made was by Egyptian astronomers around 100 BC. The calendar measured a year’s length by observing the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky, ultimately completing a full cycle of seasons. This Solar year is measured as 365.242180 days, which works out to be approximately 6 hours longer than our 365-day calendar year.

Then, the Jaeger-LeCoultre team gave us further insight into the other calendars that came after the Solar calendar, for example, the Julian Calendar. This calendar was first introduced by Julius Caesar in 46 BC, and it was the very first calendar that was divided into 12 months that featured 30 or 31 days per month. This Julian Calendar, however, fell short by 6 hours from the solar year, so to compensate for this, February was given an extra day.

This was still considered an over-compensation, and in 1582, Pope Gregoy XIII eliminated some leap years and brought the length of the solar and Julian calendar years within 27seconds of each other. This also created the “leap years”, which we still use in modern day calendars.

One of the most interesting facts that was given to us by the Jaeger-LeCoultre team, which I found to be completely surreal, was that in October 1582, 10 days from the Gregorian calendar were dropped from the calendar to bring the “vernal equinox” from March 11 back to March 21. The Church decided to remove ten days specifically from October so that any major Christian festivals wouldn’t be skipped. After finding out this fact, all of us immediately went to our phones, and some of us went to our iPhones and scrolled all the way back to 1582 to see the ten missing days from the calendar!

The Stellar Odyssey presentation also touched on the Sundial and Astrolabe, the very first mechanisms for timekeeping and astronomical timekeeping. Jaeger-LeCoultre presented a physical version of the sundial during the workshop. As we know, the sundial is one of the oldest known instruments used for measuring time, dating back thousands of years to ancient civilisations such as Egypt and Greece. Early sundials divided daylight into equal parts, which eventually led to the development of the 12-hour day system!

On the other hand, the astrolabe is a much more complex mechanical apparatus used by astronomers, navigators, and even astrologers to chart the stars and calculate the time of day or night. Once again, Jaeger-LeCoultre had an astrolabe on hand during the Stellar Odyssey workshop to show us how it worked. The astrolabe could measure the altitude of celestial bodies, providing precise information about their positions relative to Earth.

The astrolabe has also directly been linked with the development of astronomical complications in watches, such as tracking the movement of celestial bodies like the sun, moon and stars. The concept of the astrolabe can be found in modern Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces such as the Rendez-Vous Celestial or the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which come with complications such as celestial charts and moon phase indicators, all direct descendants of the astrolabe.

The final part of the Stellar Odyssey workshop was an interactive scenario, where we split into groups of two and were given a perpetual calendar complication to be set up. We were taken to the back of the Atelier d’Antoine to wear a watchmaker’s coat. After looking the part, we started to work the perceptual calendar complication. This large-scale model was mostly completed, with the final few pieces missing. The exercise of putting together this perpetual calendar complication was there to show us how the intricate mechanism worked, but also give us a small insight into the life of a watchmaker!

After we finished putting the perpetual calendar together, it also concluded this incredibly informative display on the celestial side of watchmaking. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Stellar Odyssey Workshop is a celebration of horological mastery and a reminder of the timeless bond between the heavens and the art of watchmaking. Participants of the workshop are invited on a journey of discovery to see how ancient celestial timekeeping instruments like the astrolabe continue to inspire the brand’s most intricate complications!

With the Stellar Odyssey Workshop, Jaeger-LeCoultre has crafted a great experience that leaves an undeniable mark on both the mind and heart. It certainly has left me with a much deeper appreciation for the celestial forces that shape our perception of time and, ultimately, the world of horology.

This was only a glimpse into the 3-hour-long Stellar Odyssey Workshop! If you would like to book the Stellar Odyssey Workshop along with the Jaegery-LeCoultre Manufacture visit, please head to jaeger-lecoultre.com.au for more information!

When you think of Switzerland, what comes to mind? Is it the snowy Swiss Alps, the beautiful green rolling hills, the fresh country air? You would certainly be right to think this, as this is precisely what we experienced on our latest trip to Switzerland. While the Watch Advice team was in Geneva to cover Geneva Watch Days, we also had the opportunity to head into the Swiss Jura and into the Vallèe de Joux.

As we made our way out of the hustle and bustle of Geneva and drove about an hour into the Swiss countryside, our perspective on life did change. They say that humans tend to be happier when we are more exposed to nature, and I found this to be very much the case. I was instantly happy as we drove through the countryside and saw the scenic side of Switzerland. We were there during summer, which in Switzerland, you experience 30-degree warmth that probably only lasts a month. It also brings with it lush green grass and warm summer breezes, and you can even hear the sound of cowbells ringing!

As we drove down the hills that are dotted with small towns, we arrived in the Vallèe de Joux and the small town of Le Chenit. It is said that, during the 17th century, watchmaking became widely spread throughout the Swiss Jura region – The Vallée de Joux in particular came to specialise in the field of Grande Complications, one of the noblest arts in watchmaking. For almost 100 years, almost all the ultra-complicated movements were completed in the Vallée de Joux. Add to this the fact the region is absolutely stunning in terms of natural beauty and scenic views; it would also serve as inspiration for the watchmakers to create beautiful mechanical art!

Located in the ever-so-beautiful Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s multi-storied manufacture stands proudly as a testament to the incredible watchmaking that goes on inside.  Nestled in the Valley, the first thing you notice is the quiet. Other than the odd car that passes us on the road, the entry into Jaeger-LeCoultre epitomises the journey we took to get there. Known as the “Grande Maison”, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture is quite the establishment. It features different buildings dedicated to the different watchmaking areas of the brand, along with a museum showing us an extensive history of the Grande Maison. This is one Manufacture that, if you aren’t careful, you can certainly get lost in!

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture is the birthplace of countless innovations that have helped shape the world of horology as we know it today. From the brand’s iconic Reverso to the intricate Atmos Clocks, Jaeger-LeCoultre has continually pushed the boundaries of watchmaking. A visit to this horological heaven is simply more than just a tour. It represents the heart of Swiss watchmaking, where the past, present and future converge to the sound of ticking watches.

Before even entering the manufacture, I was quite impressed as I got to see a beekeeper busy extracting honey. This already shows Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to local sustainability to use their own produce and products that is sourced from the local surrounding regions. Without even starting the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture tour, I was already getting the sense of how the brand operates!

My journey into the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture started with meeting the team who would take us on the guided tour. I was there alongside Chamath and Matt from Watchadvice, and we were certainly fortunate to be on the only ones on the tour, making it a more personal experience. We had the initial meet and greet with the Jaeger-LeCoultre team who would show us through the manufacture.

We were then guided to our first activity, which was an addition to the actual Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture visit. However, what I witnessed walking through the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture were several photographs showing the past, present and future of Jaeger-LeCoutlre. A piece, or should I say a collection of photographs, that stood out for me was the wall that had several photos showing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture and its upgrades over the years. This was really interesting to see, as it showed the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture from 1833 all the way to 2020, showing the progression of expansion through the decades!

We then arrived at the Atelier d’Antoine, a stunning room where precision watchmaking workshops occur. We, however, sat down to undertake the “Discovery Workshop – Stellar Odyssey”, which, in this case, is where we took a deep dive into the celestial side of watchmaking, understanding how moon phases, day and night indicators, annual calendars and perpetual calendars come about, along with the deep-rooted history behind each complication. There will be a separate article on this, where we will showcase Jaeger-LeCoultre’s celestial complications in detail, along with a deep dive into the workshop where we got to assemble our own perpetual calendar movement!

After the workshop, we were fitted into white cotton lab coats and headed to a workshop where movement finishing was completed. We were shown by a Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmaker the art of perlage finishing. Perlage finishing is a complicated finishing technique that is usually found on the baseplates or bridges of a movement and creates beautiful concentric circles. The simple explanation of the process of doing perlage finishing is when the machine “stamps” the plate and, when removed, leaves behind a circle. Watchmakers use a rotating abrasive rod, which is attached to a drill to “stamp” the plate.

While this is straightforward, it gets complicated from here on out. While it’s easy to do a single circle, it also comes down to how hard you press the drill onto the desired plate and how long you leave the drill pressed onto the plate. This is what I certainly noticed when I tried my hand at the perlage finishing technique. After you get the weight and length of pressing the drill right, then you have to complete the “pattern”, which for a watchmaker is putting one circle next to another with them slightly overlapping, and then doing this in large circular patterns to cover the plate as required.

This is by no means an easy task, as when we each had our own turn at it, we quickly found out how hard it is to have the stamped circles overlaying on each other even in a straight line, let alone creating a full pattern! I opted to create my favourite number seven, and as you can see the weight was off initially due to the darker circles, and keeping it in a straight line was no easy task, even though it looks simple!

After the Perlage demonstration and workshop, we took a break, and that’s when we had time to explore the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture at our own pleasure, restricted to the floor we were on; however, as the rest of the Manufacture we required the Jaeger-LeCoultre team. As we made our way through, we came across the Maison d’Antoine, where we would have lunch later (again, this was an extra part that was added for the Watch Advice team). This was when we came across the VIP Lounge, which, when opened…was jaw-dropping.

As soon as you open the door, you are greeted with large windows that go from one end of the room to the other and extend all the way to the top of the roof. The view through this room was just purely stunning. It’s hard to put into words what we felt the first time we opened the door, entered this room, and saw the view. It overlooks the stunning farmlands adjacent to the Tete Du Lac nature reserve, and the Jura mountains in the background. Imagine working alongside this view every day! Can certainly imagine being inspired to create some magic with Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces!

After we had some time to look around, we were then treated to lunch with Mathieu, the heritage director of Jaeger-LeCoultre. We were presented with a beautiful lunch that was all sourced locally from the surrounding farms, as well as the fish that was sourced from the nearby lakes. It was a great experience being able to eat alongside him and talk all things watches and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Certainly grateful for this experience!

After lunch, we started our second phase of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture! We were taken to the Heritage Gallery, where Jaeger-LeCoultre’s archives show us the brand’s rich history! The Heritage Gallery was created only a few years ago in 2017. If you want to know about the history of the Grande Maison, look no further than the Heritage Gallery, as the organised shelves of documents and records are presented in an eye-catching modern display. We had a separate dedicated guide for this section, which explained this history in quite detail.

What we saw in this section of the manufacture was everything you can think off related to the brand’s history. The first pocket watch designs, the manufacture sheets, the purchase order books, how the location for the manufacture was initially chosen and even the family tree of LeCoultre! There was too much information and too little time to go through it all!

A few pieces that did stand out for me, however, was the Circa. 1900 Patek Philippe Pocket Watch for Tiffany. This is a pocket watch that is triple signed, meaning three different manufacturers came together to assemble and create the piece. It is unique and almost unheard of today! The pocket watch’s case was produced by Patek Philippe, the dial by Tiffany and, of course, the movement by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Another piece that stood out among the historic timepieces was the world’s “smallest” watch. If you think the ultra-thin movements these days are impressive, then this is sure to blow your mind! In 1929, Jaeger-LeCoultre created the world’s smallest mechanical movement (and, incidentally, watch) with the calibre 101. This record has not been broken to this day!

Alongside this, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a tremendous amount of historical pieces on show, all the way from some of the very first movements created, to the iconic Reverso from 1931, to modern-day pieces. It is a treasure-trove and something most watch enthusiasts would salivate over.

Historical Pieces

When Le-Coultre Met Jaeger

in 1903, Jacques-David LeCoultre met businessman, Edmond Jaeger – a french engineer and their collaboration gave birth to one of the greatest ultra-thin calibres in watchmaking and the birth of the Master Ultra Thin

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (1931)

The Reverso was invented by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1931 for the British army officers in India who wanted to protect the crystals on their watches while playing polo. As we know, the Reverso is a modern-day icon!

Heading Into Modern Day

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 1

In 2004, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 1. This was the brand’s first grand complication timepiece. This is a watchmaking marvel, as the gyrotourbillon gravitates around two axis to counteract the negative effects of gravity in any position.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à chrongraphe (2007)

In 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dual-Wing concept was born. It was a genuine micro-mechanical revolution that made the whole Duomètre collection possible. The watch works by having two independent mechanisms which is united by a single regulating organ, guaranteeing excellence in performance and precision!

As we proceeded through the archived sections of the Heritage Gallery we came across arguably one of the most notable sections in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Manufacture. When we entered this part of the Heritage Gallery, we were first greeted with a wall full of ATMOS clocks! This is where all the different Jaeger-LeCoultre ATMO clocks through the ages were showcased, from the ATMOS 1 in 1930 to the modern ATMOS Infinite created in 2022.

On the opposite side of the ATMOS wall was a spiral staircase that led to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacturing departments. This staircase was quite remarkable, however, as it was decorated with watch movements in a very aesthetically pleasing manner. The glass casing of the staircase featured movements that were placed in a spiral arrangement to mimic the design of the staircase. The movements shown are what Jaeger-LeCoultre have used to date, going all the way back to the brand’s first pocket watch movements.

As we made our way upstairs through the spiral staircase, the first thing we noticed when we reached the upper floor was the watchmaker’s desk, which had various tools used to adjust the movement and fix the dials onto the timepieces. An interesting fact about the desk shown in the photos below is that Antoine LeCoultre used it from his original workshop! Check out Jaeger-LeCoultre’s video on “The Genesis of Precision” to see an animation of Antoine LeCoultre using some of these tools and machines!

The next part of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture visit involved walking through the watchmakers’ various workshops. One of the first ones we passed through was the watch restoration and repair section, and although we didn’t get to be up close and talk to the watchmakers, we still got to see them hard at work!

Our Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture guide took us to a department where “dial stamping” was executed. There, an expert watchmaker took us through a presentation (with television imagery!) of the process of stamping the dials. We were shown the beginning to end of dial stamping, including physical pieces of each of the different stages in the stamping process. The final product is the dial that is used for the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948!

From there, we briefly looked at the material’s storage section of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture. This is where they keep all the metal sheets, spare parts, and waste. From this point, we then walked to the manufacture’s high-complication section, a place that I was probably looking forward to the most in this tour! I mentioned earlier how large the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture is from the outside, but when you have actually to go through the different sections, it is indeed quite a walk (the entire manufacture is equivalent to almost walking 11km!), so make sure to wear walking shoes!

The Jaeger-LeCoultre’s high-complication department was next and it was only I was quite looking forward to seeing. While we couldn’t go inside due to them working on new timepieces and proprietary information, we still had the privilege of seem them work through the windows. I must say, it was quite the team in this department, which seemed substantially larger than the other sections of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture.

Nestled in the middle of the high-complication department (we were still sitting outside the department, however), we were given a presentation once again with a watchmaker who explained to us what this department was about. We also got a hands-on feel with three of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s high-complication timepieces. The first was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication timepiece, which honestly is one of the most incredible timepieces I’ve had the pleasure of holding. The watch has a celestial chart on the dial, highlighting all the different star patterns and a revolving tourbillon that moves around the dial! Oh, and it also comes with a minute repeater complication that we also engaged to hear the beautiful chime!

The second timepiece was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar. Fortunately, I’ve had the chance to hold and try this piece on already; however, I certainly wasn’t going to pass up the chance to see this masterpiece again. The last timepiece was another one that was breathtaking to hold and by far my favourite so far. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon is a watch that I personally thought I’d never get the chance to hold!

The Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon is an engineering masterpiece, and seeing this timepiece towards the end of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture visit made it all the more special. Seeing the gyrotourbillon in action for me is an amazing piece of watchmaking, and the fact that it’s on a Reverso, whereby we can see the second “dial” that is a skeletonised version of the front, makes this timepiece even more exceptional!

The last part of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture tour took us to the ATMOS atelier. This is where they create and test all the ATMOS clocks before they hit the shelves in retail stores and Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques. Our tour guide gave us a fascinating demonstration of how the ATMOS clock keeps a continuous power reserve. The simplest explanation is that the clock generates energy through very minor temperature changes. Within a sealed capsule at the back of the ATMOS clock, there is a mixture of gas that expands and contracts as the temperature changes, allowing the “movement” to wind naturally. The demonstration showed us that an expanded capsule quickly contracts when it’s exposed to a different temperature, such as ice water.

As the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture visit came to an end, it became increasingly clear to me that the true value of a luxury timepiece was not measured by the materials used or the brand name engraved on the dial. After witnessing first-hand Jaeger-LeCoultre’s relentless pursuit of perfection in every part of the manufacturing process, from the hand-finishing of movements to the intricate assembly of the complications, it’s easy to understand why the brand’s watches carry such a premium.

If you have ever wondered why a luxury watch commands its price, a visit to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture will quickly make you understand in a way that words simply cannot! For me, it was an experience that changed the way I see not just the brand and their timepieces but the whole concept of watchmaking itself. After leaving the Grande Maison, I had a deeper appreciation for the art of Swiss watchmaking, along with a knowledgable respect for the skill, passion and time it takes to create Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces. Now I know why they are the watchmaker’s watchmaker.

One of the things that goes through my mind when looking at a potential watch purchase is, is it good for travel? Now I’m not talking about watches with GMT functions or watches that are specifically designed to track multiple time zones like a Worldtimer etc. These are great, but not essential. I’ve traveled lots without a specific watch like a GMT. What I’m more interested in is this: Is the watch versatile enough to wear in different climates with different clothing? Can I wear it day and night should I take it as my only piece? Will I enjoy wearing it out and about, exploring new places and seeing new sights, and the last one that goes through my mind (a side effect of doing what I do) how will this piece photograph and will it look good on Instagram? Ok, the last one is a little more specific to me, but you get my gist!

Now I’m a bit of a sucker for a green dial. I use to gravitate towards blue, but these days, I’m liking watches with more colour, or something that isn’t your standard blue or black. Don’t get me wrong, both of these colours are great, but if you have a few watches that are blue or black, then you kind of want to venture out of this box a little. With this in mind, I’ve managed to get my hands on the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green that was released this year at LVMH Watch Week 2024 and to answer the above question, we took it to New Zealand, in and around the Queenstown area to see how the Zenith faired as a daily to travel with!

RELATED READING: Zenith Goes Green With The New Chronomaster Sport

A green Zenith Chronomaster Sport may not be most people’s average watch choice when heading off on a trip, but this was the whole point of this exercise – could it be? My short answer is yes, most definitely. Why? I revert to my aforementioned point – because it is not the first choice for most people. Ok, those are the short answers and this would be a very short and boring article if I stopped there. So let me elaborate if you will indulge me…

I’ve traveled quite a bit over the last decade or so. Normally you would find me traveling with several watches in my collection, and in most cases, I would be reaching and placing into my travel case a few pieces. My trusty Panerai 312 is always in the case, but then I just look for something that is robust, water resistant, and easy to wear with whatever the day brings – this normally means a diver of some sort, or a few depending on the length of the trip. For me, dive watches are that perfect blend of style and function so they are an easy choice, and normally, classic black. Hey, it goes with everything! But…my tastes are changing a little, and for this trip, I wanted something with a little more colour and fun, just to break it up and obviously, to see if I could change my mindset and habit. Enter the Zenith Chronomaster Sport!

The Zenith Chronomaster was a hit for the brand when released back in 2021. Even though some compared it directly to the Rolex Daytona, once you get past the surface-level evaluation that it is a chronograph with three subdials and tachymeter, you see that it most definitely is not. This and the fact that Zentih used to supply the El Primero to Rolex for the Daytona perhaps gives it more historical significance to be a sports chronograph than its competitor. But that’s another topic for another day. And now with new colour variants and materials, the Zenith is most definitely setting itself apart, which in my eyes, is a good thing for both Zenith and collectors alike.

Speaking of colour, look at that green! Green dials and colours can be a little hit-and-miss. Too dark and subtle and it looks close to black in certain light. Too light or the wrong tone and the watch loses its appeal – sort of hits you in your face. But in between, striking a happy medium and you are on to a winner. This is where I feel Zenith has hit the mark here. And now we are in winter, you don’t want a “Summer Watch” but some colour is very welcomed with those shorter and cooler days. In New Zealand, even more so as the sunrise is after 8 am, and sunset is around 5 pm.

When holidaying, adventuring or just traveling abroad for whatever reason, a steel sports piece is always welcomed. The ease of slipping it on in the morning and not having to worry too much about it means they are an easy choice. Plus the water resistance means you’re covered for anything life throws at you. The other plus is with a bracelet like on the Chronomaster Sport, the watch wears comfortable all day. I mentioned in my write-up on the release of this piece that the bracelet isn’t as solid due to it having hollow links, but this is offset by making it lighter and easier to wear. And unless you’re doing something dangerous or hardcore, you’re not going to damage them anyway, so it’s a mute point.

Whilst over in Queenstown, I had the chance to explore the town a lot too, something I always like to do. It is a good way to immerse yourself in a place, just go about your day and do as the locals do in between the sightseeing and tourist activities. Queenstown is steeped in history and is a wonderful mix of great little restaurants and bars, high fashion and of course, amazing scenery that acts as the backdrop to the town.

I had a chance to stop into Partridges, which is one of New Zealand’s leading watch and jewelry specialists. Whilst they don’t unfortunately stock Zenith, talking to the staff there was a joy, and obviously, they had to check out the Chronomaster Sport too – they don’t get a chance to see these all that much in the wild and the green was an absolute hit with the staff there.

Asking about the watch scene in Queenstown and the state of the market, it seems that Queenstown is bucking the down-trend a little, thanks to tourism and also the fact that they are one of the only specialist dealers outside of Christchurch and service the southern part of the South Island. It was also nice to get out of the cold for a little bit, and take off the puffer jacket, beanie, gloves, and talk watches.

Now, if you’re over in NZ for winter, especially Queenstown, then there is plenty of adventure and sightseeing activities to do whilst there. These are perfect to test the Zenith on the wrist getting out and about, and I’m pleased to say that I never found myself getting sick of looking at it on the wrist. One such place I decided to venture with a hire car is Deer Park Heights, which is around the other side of Lake Wakatipu and near Frankton. It’s a beautiful drive up the hills, albeit a winding and twisting drive. But the views from the top are remarkable (and of The Remarkables!)

Now, did I use the chronograph to see how long it would take to navigate up the mountains? I’d be lying if I said no. I have a chronograph on my wrist, why wouldn’t I?! For the record, 10 minutes, 37 seconds, and 4/10th of a second to be exact, if you don’t count the stops along the way to continually marvel at the sights and look at the deer.

Now I will mention that I did venture up Coronet Peak to the ski fields, but being the responsible watch owner I am, I used my better judgment and didn’t take the Zenith up there should something unexpected happen. Queenstown hasn’t had a lot of snow of late, and the ski fields are using a lot of the man-made snow (essentially loads of shredded ice) to fill them out, so the conditions up there are more ice than soft powder. As a result, the ground was quite hard and I wasn’t going to risk falling on my left wrist with the Zenith on. I’d be less than popular let’s just say with Zenith’s Brand Manager (You’re welcome Fiona!) But it was great to get some shots up there nonetheless which I’m happy to share.

There are plenty of places in and around Queenstown to visit, and not all of it is adventure activities either. If you head out of town a little, past Arrowtown, there is a great food and wine precinct called Ayrburn – essentially a restaurant, cellar door, function venue, and loads of areas to sit and enjoy good food and wine. It seemed like a must-do to me, so with the Zenith on my wrist, I jumped in the car and drove out to Aryburn, which funnily enough was gearing up for Christmas in July!

I settled down for a drink and some food in the weirdly named “Manure Room”. Sounding like storage for fresh fertiliser, it’s actually a cool wine and tapas bar. Inside it’s a cosy bar, and outside, the wood fire and heaters keep you warm as you soak in the atmosphere.

Here I take the time to relax and take some pictures of the Zenith while I wait for my food and Shiraz in the outdoor area. At the same time, it has given me a little time to think about how the Zenith has kept me company over the last few days, and the fact that it hasn’t missed a beat and nor should it. The El Primero 3600 Calibre beating away at 36,600 VpH or 5Hz keeps great time. The high-beat movement helps to ensure a greater level of accuracy over those watches that have a lower beat rate. When traveling, accuracy and reliability are essential, and the Zenith has this in spades. You also get a 60 hour power reserve, so a full 2.5 days should you want to rest it for a day or so depending on what you are doing.

There is also an abundance of coffee shops and cafés in and around Queenstown. These are perfect for sitting down, taking off a few layers and relaxing with a coffee, catching up on the happenings around the world. One of my daily routines was to wander up to The Bathhouse for a morning coffee and breakfast.

It’s a great spot right on the lake, and somewhere you can sit and watch the world go by and ponder the meaning of life, or maybe your next watch purchase which is probably much more likely! And really, when you have a view like the one below, why wouldn’t you just sit and admire this for hours on end? I know I could, and with a great watch on my wrist, I’m one happy traveler!

As I sit, sipping my coffee, and as my time over in Queenstown is coming to an end, I find myself pondering my original question about travel and choosing the right watch to accompany you, does the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green tick all those other boxes?

Is the watch versatile enough to wear in different climates with different clothing? I think it is. These days (and this is based on personal preference) I’m loving watches that have some colour about them. And when on a trip like this, the Zenith works well in a cold climate, and I can only imagine it would be right at home on my wrist in a tropical location as well. Can I wear it day and night should I take it as my only piece? Again, the answer is yes. This is a piece I wore day and night, and works well for both. Whilst I’d love a little more lume on the dial and hands for nighttime, the Zenith was able to go from one to the other and I didn’t have any issues with it being my only watch on for the entire day. Will I enjoy wearing it out and about, exploring new places, and seeing new sights? Most definitely. In fact it was a good change to see that green dial and bezel on my wrist, and being in various locations doing different activities, it was a joy to wear and look down at it. And last but not least, how will this piece photograph and will it look good on Instagram? I took the photo’s so I may be a little biased here, so you tell me, does it?

Working through that above checklist, for me, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport is a piece you can put on before you head out the door on your next trip, and not worry about taking it off until you get back. Yes, the white or black dials may be the safer option, but I can tell you I’m amazed at the number of people who have commented on the green and how good it looks on the wrist. This tells me that many people appreciate colour when it comes to watches and whilst how a watch looks is totally subjective, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green seems to be a hit.

Reference: 03.3119.3600/56.M3100

Specification:

• Case: 41mm, 47mm lug-lug, and 13mm thick
• Case Material: Brushed and Polished Steel with green ceramic bezel
• Dial: Green-toned sunray-patterned with tri-coloured sub dials
• Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Movement: El Primero 3600 high-frequency automatic movement. Beating at 36’000 VpH / 5Hz with 1/10th second chronograph function
• Power reserve: 60 hours
• Bracelet: Stainless Steel Bracelet with brushed outer and polished inner links and folding clasp

Australian Retail Pricing: $17,500 AUD on steel, or $16,700 on rubber.

Availability: Available now through Zenith Boutiques, Authorised Dealers and online at Zenith-watches.com

Full Image Gallery + Bonus Photos

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is an icon in and outside of the world of watches. In part one of The Legacy of Iconic Watch Designs: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, we looked at the brand’s early years and how it gained recognition for creating complex timepieces.

Related Reading: The Legacy Of Iconic Watch Designs: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – Part One

While Audemars Piguet established itself in the world of horology through its innovative creations, such as being one of the first to create a minute repeater, it really put itself on the radar after the launch of the Royal Oak. The story of Royal Oak’s inception is quite the tale as well (which you can read in part one!), as the design concept for the watch was thought overnight, the day before the 1970 Basel Fair.

The bravery of two gentlemen, Georges Folay and Gerald Genta, weathered the storm of the Quartz crisis to create one of the most iconic timepieces in watchmaking history. In Part One of this story, we looked in-depth at how the Royal Oak came to be and what inspired its design. We also examined the finer details (such as the tapered bracelet design) that went into creating this iconic masterpiece.

In Part Two, we will examine the evolution of the Royal Oak and how the timepiece retains its core signature design while keeping up with modern horology by using new materials, different complications, and concept designs.

The Royal Oak Timeline: A Journey Through Design Eras

When the Royal Oak was first released in 1972, it had a unique design that broke away from the traditional aesthetics of luxury timepieces at the time. It was rare to see a stainless steel sports watch, and almost unheard of in Royal Oak’s design language of a tapisserie dial with an octagonal bezel on the tapered integrated bracelet. All these elements came together to set a new standard for high-end sports watches, which served to establish Audemars Piguet as a forward-thinking brand willing to step outside the boundaries.

Since its creation, exactly 50 years ago, the Royal Oak has undergone numerous evolutions, incorporating various complications and different materials into the signature design to not only stay with modern times but also adhere to a variety of clientele.

Early versions of the Royal Oak model were mainly centred around the time-only models, while the women’s Royal Oak model was also released. However, almost a decade later, Audemars Piguet started incorporating gem settings for a more luxurious finish while creating new additions with different complications, such as moon phases, chronographs, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons. Audemars Piguet also released the Royal Oak Offshore, a design variant of the Royal Oak that pushed the boundaries further by offering a larger and more robust version of the original Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet’s use of different materials also plays a significant part in the evolution of the Royal Oak. The first Royal Oak (reference 5402ST) was presented in stainless steel; however, as time went by, later versions of the Royal Oak incorporated a variety of materials, from gold, platinum, and titanium to ceramic. The use of these different materials on the Royal Oak not only served to enhance the aesthetic of the timepiece but also to showcase that the brand isn’t afraid to explore new frontiers in watchmaking. The use of forged carbon and ceramic on the watch gave it more durability while upgrading the model for more modern clientele.

With the aesthetics of the Royal Oak changing over the years with different materials and complications, Royal Oak Offshore and even concept watches, Audemars Piguet has constantly evolved the movement to suit these various designs. The brand has produced an extra-thin version of the original Royal Oak with a slimmer movement for those who prefer Royal Oak on the thinner side. This continuous evolution of the Royal Oak, whether it’s through design innovation, the use of different and new materials, or technical advancements in the movement, ensures that the Royal Oak remains at the forefront in the world of horology, appealing to both long-time watch enthusiasts and new-watch lovers alike.

1976- Birth of Women’s Royal Oak (II)

After the release of the first Royal Oak in stainless steel in 1972, Audemars Piguet presented the second version of the timepiece, this time marketed towards the female clientele. The birth of the first woman’s Royal Oak, named the Royal Oak II (reference 8638), was for the first time presented to the buyer in two different material versions: tow-tone and yellow gold. In 1978, the brand presented the Royal Oak II in white gold.

The Royal Oak II came in a smaller 29mm diameter case. None of the core features of the watch changed, with only the movement needing to be changed to a small self-winding Calibre 2062 (Rayville – LeCoultre blank) to suit the new measurements of the watch. Audemars Piguet states that the timepiece sold approximately 3,889 units starting from 1976, with sales continuing until 1990.

1977 – Royal Oak III

The Royal Oak III, as the name suggests, was the third evolution of the Royal Oak. The timepiece was designed by Jacqueline Dimier and was presented as Royal Oak reference 4100 in 1977. This reference was the first Royal Oak to feature a centre seconds hand! With this slightly tweaked design, this men’s model was also slimmed down to a size of 35mm diameter, to better cater for the clientele that considered the original Royal Oak 5402ST (39mm) to large.

Building on the success of the woman’s Royal Oak II (ref. 8638), this latest men’s version was also presented in three materials: steel, two-tone and 18-carat yellow gold. Audemars Piguet states that more than 8,400 models of Royal Oak III were sold between 1997 and 2002.

1979 – First Royal Oak to be Gemset

In 1979, Audemars Piguet presented the first Royal Oak gem-set timepieces. Between 1979 and 1991, the brand started transforming 19 examples of the first Royal Oak ref. 5402 by gem-setting the bezel rim. Audemars Piguet placed 8 diamonds per bezel size, totalling 64 diamonds around the bezel. The new reference for these gem sets was Royal Oak 4187.

Audemars Piguet presented the gem-set Royal Oaks in either white gold or 18-carat yellow gold. The brand states that “only nine examples of Model 4187 in yellow gold appear in the Audemars Piguet registers. The watches were sold between 1980 and 1985. As with the white gold variation, the German market accounted for more than half of the sales.”

1982 – First Royal Oak Haute Joaillerie

The First Royal Oak to be fully gem-set was presented shortly after the release of Royal Oak ref. 4187 in 1982. This timepiece, named reference 4331m, had a top of its bezel adorned with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds, while the case middle featured 80 brilliant-cut diamonds. The bracelet was also adorned with diamonds, with each bracelet link having three horizontal rows that encased diamonds. Together, the bracelet featured 460 brilliant-cut diamonds. With the 10 diamonds on the dial, the Royal Oak ref. 4331 had a total of 584 brilliant-cut diamonds!

Audemars Piguet states that “To date, only two Model 4331 watches have been identified in the Audemars Piguet records. The first, in yellow gold, was sold in Singapore on April 9, 1982. The second, in white gold, was delivered to Abu Dhabi the following year. Their small Royal Oak numbers belong to Model 4100.”

1983 – Royal Oak Receives Its First Complication

The years 1983 and 1984 were major milestones for the Royal Oak in that this is when we see the first complications being fitted into the iconic timepiece. The first complication for the Royal Oak was neither a chronograph nor a perpetual calendar, even though by this point, Audemars Piguet was a master of the two complications. It was rather a “small complication”, whereby two counters indicate the day and date with a hand. The appearance of this model was nicknamed the “owl” at the time due to the large appearance of these sub-counters.

This model, released in 1983, was presented in a 36mm case size and was named ref. 5572. The brand states that “more than 600 of these watches had already been delivered; one may safely assume that it corresponded to extremely strong market demand. From the very first year, several variants were offered in steel, yellow gold, two-tone (steel and yellow gold) and even white gold with white, black, guilloché or smooth dials.”

1984 – First Royal Oak Day-Date Moon Phase

Following the success of the Royal Oak Day-Date, Audemars Piguet presented the next evolution of the complication the following year: a moon-phase aperture on the dial. The moon phase sits between the day-date complications at 6 o’clock, providing a much better-balanced aesthetic look.

This moon phase edition was named ref. 25594, and upon its release, it was an immediate success. Understandably, if this model were released today, I would see it having the same success! A total of 333 timepieces were sold in 1984, with a further 600 being sold in 1985. However, as impressive as this was, what really makes this model stand out in Audemars Piguet’s history is the fact that ref. 25594 remained in the brand’s catalogue for over 20 years, from 1985 to 2006!

1984 – First Royal Oak to feature Perpetual Calendar Complication

At the same time Audemars Piguet was designing the Royal Oak Day-Date and the Day-Date Moon Phase, the brand was also creating the first-ever Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. On April 5th, 1984, Audemars Piguet presented the first Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar on the opening day of the Basel Fair. The calendar was initially named reference 5554 but was later renamed reference 25554. The first recorded model of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar being delivered to a customer was in December 1984, with the model being in yellow gold.

Audemars Piguet states that they did take longer than expected to finalise the design and construction of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar as “the watchmakers had set themselves the objective of fitting Calibre 2120/2800 (3.95 mm thick) into the same extra-thin case as the Royal Oak 5402, which until then housed Calibre 2121 (3.05 mm). To achieve this, the bezel was slightly raised, the sapphire crystal was trimmed, and three places were created to accommodate the three calendar correctors. As a result, Model 2554 is only 7.5 mm, thick, i.e. barely 0.4 mm thicker than Model 5402.”

The brand sold 270 models of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar between 1984 and 1992 in steel and yellow gold, with one reference being in platinum (possibly a custom order, as it was for a client in Germany).

1986 – Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked!

Two years after the release of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Audemars Piguet released one of my favourite timepieces yet from the brand, the Perpetual Calendar Openworked! Taking the name ref. 25636, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked was born in a workshop that has played a very special role in the history of the Manufacture Audemars Piguet. 

The story goes that “Régis Meylan was the foreman from 1974 to 2018 at the Manufacture Audemars Piguet. He recalls that it was here that the art of openworking was revitalised in 1975, at the dawn of the quartz crisis. It was also here that the legendary Calibre 2120/2800 was created in 1978, and the first Royal Oak perpetual calendar watches were born in 1984.”

It’s recalled that the openwork design on the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar from 1984 required more than a month. Model 25636 lasted for 10 years in production, with the materials used for case construction evolving over this period of time. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked was presented in steel, yellow gold, platinum, pink gold and two-tone variations including steel + platinum, pink gold + platinum and platinum + pink gold. With all these variations, the total sales of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked amounted to being 313 models from 1986 to 1997.

1986 – Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked Gemset

While gem-set timepieces became popular much later, the earliest record of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked with gemstones was in 1986, the same year the model was created. Audemars Piguet didn’t put this model into production, possibly because of low interest at the time.

Only one model of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked Gemset was created, with the name given as ref. 25651. This model, like Royal Oak ref. 4187, released in 1979, had a gem setting on the rim of the bezel, and the 12-hour indices were gems as well. The model was sold in yellow gold to an owner in Hong Kong.

1987 – Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25654

In 1987, Audemars Piguet reworked the case of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to offer a timepiece with better water resistance. The case of this new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25654 had a slight increase from 7.5mm to 8.3mm to better its water resistance.

For almost 10 years, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25654 was at the heart of collection, with this reference being accounted for almost half of the perpetual calendar collection sales. This reference was taken out of Audemars Piguet’s catalogue in 1996, when the brand introduced its successor with a new updated movement (Calibre 2120/2801) that now featured a leap-year cycle indication. Sales of ref. 25654 from 1987 to 1998 totalled 851 models!

1989 – First Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with Sapphire Caseback (Not Openworked)

The first Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to feature a see-through sapphire case back was reference 25686 released in 1989. Now, this isn’t to be confused with model 25636, released in 1986, as that was the open-worked version. Reference 25686 allowed buyers to enjoy the beauty of the complicated movement through the sapphire case back, without having to go down the skeletonised dial route.

The brand states that “distributed between 1989 and 1998, this model features a wide range of dial interpretations. It plays on their colour (gold, blue, salmon, pink, etc.) and varies their finish. In particular, this was the timepiece that introduced the guilloché pattern known as T21 Tapisserie into the world of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, as well as the finely engraved “Tuscany blue“ dial and the mother-of-pearl dials.” Between 1989 and 1998, ref 25686 sold a total of 299 units.

1990 – First Royal Oak Travel Watch – Dual Time Ref. 25730ST

The very first Royal Oak designed by Audemars Piguet for travel was the Dual Time ref. 25730ST in 1990. With the advancement of the Royal Oak day-date and perpetual calendar complications, the brand branched out into creating dual-time travel watches for the collection.

The 36.5mm case Royal Oak Dual Time came with a date indicator at 2 o’clock, a secondary time at 6 o’clock, and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. This was by far one of the more usable complications in the Royal Oak catalogue while still staying true to Gerald Genta’s signature design.

1992 – 20th Anniversary of Royal Oak Ref. 14802

Audemars Piguet celebrated the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak by releasing the Royal Oak Jubilee ref. 14802 in 1992. In the 20 years of Royal Oak production, the 39mm was the only ultra-thin model produced. This makes the Royal Oak Jubilee ref. 14802 the second “Jumbo” model in the brand’s Royal Oak history.

The timepiece stood out thanks to its three-part case construction, which also came with a transparent sapphire case back, which revealed the specially designed oscillating weight created for this 20th-anniversary jubilee model. This might also be the first time we see the Royal Oak being presented in a salmon pink-coloured dial. The brand states that a total of 998 units of ref. 14802 were sold between 1992 and 2002.

1993 – First Royal Oak Offshore

1993 marked a pivotal point in the history of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, as this was when the first variant of the timepiece was presented. The Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25721 was born from the demand of the German market, who requested for a watch with “Offshore Spirit”. As Royal Oak’s 20th anniversary was the year before, this presented the perfect opportunity for Audemars Piguet to rejuvenate the Royal Oak with a new interpretation of the iconic timepiece.

However, model 25721’s release at the Basel Fair in April created quite a scandal. Audemars Piguet explains, “At that time, the average size of men’s watches was around 36 mm in diameter. With its 42 mm diameter and 14.05 mm thickness, the first Royal Oak Offshore was considered outrageous. Not to mention the huge water-resistance gasket protruding from its bezel. Its price is also shocking because its price tag was CHF 16,600, i.e. twice that of a classic Royal Oak. This was due, on the one hand, to the extreme complexity of its case, which is water-resistant to 100 metres; on the other, to its self-winding chronograph mechanism, which was a first in the Royal Oak family.”

While the first Royal Oak Offshore had a turbulent ride in its first couple of years, as the timepiece won over only a handful of owners, it paved its way to success. In 1995, Audemars Piguet presented the Royal Oak in several precious material versions. In 1996, the Royal Oak Offshore was presented as a woman’s model in a 30mm case size and medium-sized 38mm models. 1996 was also the year in which the Royal Oak Offshore was presented in leather and rubber strap variants for the first time, something that is quite popular today. The leather strap Royal Oak Offshore timepieces came with the reference 25770.

To put into perspective Audemars Piguet’s bold decision to create the Offshore in a market that suited smaller timepieces, in the 2000s, the Royal Oak Offshore collection became so important that sales outnumbered those of the Royal Oak. This gradually led the entire watch industry to join the bandwagon of oversized watches, a segment for which it effectively blazed the trail. The Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25721 was marketed for 20 years, with sales amounting to 10,896 models (with different dials and different materials) over this period!

1996 – Royal Oak Offshore Complete Calendar 25807

Up until 1996, Audemars Piguet’s only Royal Oak Offshore model was the reference 25721 (42mm). Now, the brand has released a newer version, reference 25808. The timepiece has all the same characteristics as its previous version, such as the oversized gasket, large case thickness (12.05mm), tapisserie dial, and integrated metal bracelet with curved links and studs.

For the first time in the Royal Oak collection, the Royal Oak Offshore Ref.25807 came with a complete calendar complication. The previous version of the Royal Oak Offshore featured a chronograph complication, making it a sportier model. The Royal Oak Offshore Complete Calendar Ref.25807 featured two apertures symmetrically placed at 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock to display the day and the month, while the date is indicated around the dial by means of a dedicated pointer.

1997 – The First Royal Oak Tourbillon watch (Model 25831)

On the 25th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet decided to release something truly special. While tourbillon timepieces weren’t all that common for the Swiss watchmaker before this, to suit this special occasion, the brand gave the Royal Oak family it’s first tourbillon timepiece with ref.2583, which was powered by the 2875 calibre movement.

Audemars Piguet decided to release only 25 steel models for this 25th-anniversary Royal Oak Tourbillon, which at the time was the world’s most expensive steel watch. The brand also released the first-ever Royal Oak Tourbillon watch in pink gold, platinum, and yellow gold, along with a pink and white gold version. All these precious metal models were limited editions of 5 timepieces each.

1997 – Royal Oak Grande Complication (Ref. 25865)

The endgame of Royal Oak complications came in 1997, during the Royal Oak’s 25th anniversary celebrations. Even to this day, the Royal Oak Grande Complication is the most complex timepiece in the Royal Oak collection (as the name suggests). With its release in 1997, the Royal Oak Grande Complication showcased Audemars Piguet’s leadership in creating modern high-complication timepieces. The Grade Complication ref. 25865 was built by Audemars Piguet Renaud and Papi (known as AP le Locle).

This masterpiece in high horology consists of 648 parts and is finished to such a high level that it requires the manufacture six to eight months to complete one timepiece. As Audemars Piguet states, “To be considered a Grande Complication, a watch must include a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and a perpetual calendar. Since 1882, Audemars Piguet has made a point of keeping the Grande Complication at the spearhead of its production even during times of crisis, perpetuating this ancestral craftsmanship from one generation to the next.”

2002 – Royal Oak Concept Watch CW1

To mark the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet bought out a new model featuring an all-new design, making it the second Royal Oak variant outside of the original and Royal Oak Offshore models. The Royal Oak Concept was the “futuristic” variant, and as its name suggests, it is a “concept” watch where Audemars Piguet has the freedom to experiment with materials and avante-garde designs.

The Royal Oak Concept CW1 is where Audemars Piguet can showcase their innovation to the world without having to worry about keeping the core design codes of the Royal Oak intact. In saying that, we can still clearly see that the model has Royal Oak heritage with the eight-sided bezel and the tonneau-shaped case.

When Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Concept CW1, it came with a completely new alloy for watchmaking. The new alloy, Alacrite 602, has never been used for watchmaking. Alacrite 602 is a cobalt-based super-alloy that has been used almost exclusively in the aerospace and medical industries. The material’s stand-out properties are that it’s incredibly light and strong, making it perfect for watch cases.

2005 – First Openworked Royal Oak Grande Complication Ref. 26065

In 2005, almost a decade after the release of the first Royal Oak Grande Complication, the brand released the first open-worked version of this model. This is a historic moment for the Royal Oak, as the Openworked Royal Oak Grande Complication would become a crowd favourite, even though it is extremely hard to get a hold off.

This timepiece is also hands down one of my favourite Audemars Piguet watches. I love seeing a watch’s technical mastery, and the Royal Oak Grande Complication shows this in all its glory. Reference 26065, when it was released in 2005, was a beautiful display of Audemars Piguet’s capability to create highly technical timepieces while also making them incredibly aesthetically pleasing!

2007 – First Royal Oak in Carbon – Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Forged Carbon

With the Royal Oak Concept Watch CW1 leading the way for materials innovation for Audemars Piguet, the brand was more than comfortable experimenting with different case materials for their Royal Oak timepieces. This led to the first use of forged carbon on a watch in the world of horology. The timepiece was created as a commemoration for the Alinghi Swiss sailing team created by Ernesto Bertarelli, for winning the America’s Cup trophy for the first time in 132 years. While this win was a few years prior to the release of this limited edition Royal Oak Offshore, it still served as the source of inspiration.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Limited Edition ref. 26062FS.OO.A002CA.01 was also the first time the brand created the Offshore in a 44mm sized case. The timepiece came with a case and bezel in forged carbon, matched with a black rubber strap. This was also the first time the brand used blackened hex bolts for the screws on the bezel.

2007 – First Royal Oak Concept Watch in Carbon

Following Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team Forged Carbon’s success, that same year, Audemars Piguet released the first Royal Oak Concept Watch in the same carbon material. This much more audaciously designed Royal Oak variant now comes with a forged carbon case, with the bezel, crown, and chronograph pushers made from black ceramic!

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Carbon, with its technical mastery—the movement features a tourbillon complication, a linear chronograph, a power reserve indicator, and a crown position indicator—now gets the aesthetics updated to meet its technical brilliance.

2012 – Royal Oak 15202

As part of Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary celebrations, Audemars Piguet released several timepieces which commemorate the iconic Royal Oak. One of them being the Royal Oak 15202. This timepiece was originally released in 1999 as a replacement to the 15002.

Rhe 15202ORST (stainless steel) was equipped with dials faithful to the 1972 series A, with the AP monogram at 6 o’clock, Petite Tapisserie motif and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 colour. The timepiece also featured Audemars Piguet’s ultra-thin Calibre 2121 movement.

2016 – Royal Oak Concept SuperSonnerie

In 2015, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Concept RD#1, the most sonically concept watch of modern times. The timepiece took eight years to make, with Audemars Piguet being the key sound producer. A year later, in 2016, the brand released the Royal Oak Concept SuperSonnerie, which features a minute repeater with super acoustic intensity.

The timepiece was presented in a titanium case and crafted to make the minute repeater’s acoustic sound the clearest and highest quality in the market by quite some distance. Alongside the minute repeater, the Royal Oak Concept SuperSonnerie also featured a tourbillon and chronograph complications.

2017 – First Ceramic Royal Oak with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic (Ref. 26579CE)

2017 was another milestone year for the Royal Oak collection as this was the first time a model featured a full ceramic case and bracelet finish. Previously, we have seen Audemars Piguet integrate ceramic into the bezel of the watch, but never a full ceramic finish.

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic Ref. 26579CE was one of Royal Oak’s most significant achievements, as it combined a highly technical movement with a highly technical material finish. The timepiece came with a black ceramic finish, appealing to a wider audience with its subtle yet beautifully finished look. While this ceramic timepiece certainly wasn’t new to the market, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic Ref. 26579CE was unlike any other. It presented Audemars Piguet with a unique problem as they had to craft the highly detailed integrated bracelet and tonneau-shaped case with an octagonal bezel in ceramic and polish it to a level that is acceptable for a watch in this calibre.

2018 – Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

In 2018, Audemars Piguet updated their Royal Oak Concept with a new flying tourbillon complication. The timepiece was presented at the 2018 SIHH fair, and was certainly one of the standout watches. As we have previously seen, the Royal Oak Concept is Audemars Piguet’s playground for experimentation and creating futuristic timepieces with complex mechanisms.

Audemars Piguet first introduced the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT in 2011, which is the basic foundation of the watch we see here. The flying tourbillon is a different complication altogether, as it is a tourbillon suspended from underneath, creating a floating effect for the complication on the dial. This is a much more complex way of making the already intricate mechanism, resulting in off course a more unique and expensive timepiece.

2019 – The World’s Thinnest Perpetual Calendar

In 2019, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak featured a world first when the brand created the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch. This is a ridiculous feat of engineering, as the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar only measures 6.3mm in height. The brand already has a history of creating thin timepieces, with the movement of the 1921 pocket watch measuring only 1.32mm.

The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a true technical marvel and a testament to not only the Royal Oak collection but also Audemars Piguet for constantly pushing the boundaries of what’s possible. Understanadbly, the whole perpetual calendar display and movement from previous Royal Oak editions had to be reconfigured for this timepiece to be able to create a watch so thin!

2022 – 50th Anniversary Edition of Royal Oak “Jumbo”

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet released a range of timepieces. One of these models was the replacement for the Royal Oak “Jumbo” 15202, released a decade ago. This new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 “Jumbo” didn’t have too many variations from the 15202, besides a slightly updated dial and all-new movement to suit modern times.

The only major variation noticeable on the watch is actually seen through the case back, where we are treated to the winding rotor being engraved with a special anniversary detail: the “50 years” logo.

2024 – Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked Sand Gold

Earlier this year, Audemars Piguet unveiled another first for the Royal Oak collection, this time in a brand new material for the watch industry. The Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked Ref. 26735SG was presented as a world-first crafted in sand gold, a new 18-carat gold alloy that hovers between white and pink gold, beautifully playing with light. Audemars Piguet has also used this sand gold material on the open-worked movement, further re-iterating the beauty of the material.

The Future of Royal Oak

In conclusion, Audemars Piguet’s constant evolution of the Royal Oak stands as a true testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to furthering craftsmanship skills, innovation, and design excellence. When the Royal Oak was first introduced in 1972, it was a groundbreaking model, pushing aside boundaries set by traditional watchmaking to define what a luxury sports watch can be.

Audemars Piguet’s constant progression of the Royal Oak gave birth to variants of the iconic timepiece such as the Royal Oak Offshore with its controversial yet loved bold and robust design, and the Royal Oak Concept, essentially the brand’s playground for experimentation and creating unique timepieces with futuristic designs. While these timepieces branch out in their own collections, they still honour the original Royal Oak design while being able to embrace contemporary trends and innovation, ensuring that the Royal Oak stays relevant in the modern world of haute horology.

If these past few decades are anything to go by, the journey and legacy of this iconic watch design is far from over. Audemars Piguet promises that there will certainly be exciting new developments that will keep pushing the Royal Oak to new heights and continue to shape the future of watchmaking.

Last week, Anant Ambani married Radhika Merchant, his childhood sweetheart, to become one half of a very influential power couple. Anant Ambani is the youngest son of one of Asia’s richest men, Mukesh Ambani, and he is a partial heir to the $118 billion fortune. His wife, Radhika, is also the daughter of extremely wealthy pharmaceutical tycoons!

Born on April 10, 1995, in Mumbai, Anant Ambani has two other siblings, Akash and Isha. He is seen as one of the heirs to Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Industries Empire. Anant gained widespread media attention in 2016 due to his incredible transformation, in which he lost around 108 kilograms in less than 18 months through a very disciplined fitness program.

Despite being incredibly wealthy, Anant Ambani’s journey to better his health has inspired many around him and has people admiring him outside of his family’s successful business empire. Another reason why he’s loved in India is that he is also known for his involvement in various philanthropic activities, which are conducted through the Reliance Foundation, headed by his mother, Nita Ambani. The foundation focuses on initiatives such as healthcare, education, rural development, and sports, with its sole aim being to make a positive impact on the lives of millions across India.

More recently, as many of you would have seen across social media, he married the love of his life in one of the most international glamour weddings to date. The wedding festivities spanned across several months, with events happening in Gujarat, Mumbai and even a cruise across Europe! The couple were officially wed on July 12th, with a grand reception on July 14th.

The wedding itself was certainly a lavish event, with celebrities worldwide coming to celebrate the special occasion. Celebrities such as former British Prime Ministers Borish Johnson and Tony Blair, John Cena, Nick Jonas, Priyanka Chopra, Shah Rukh Khan, Salman Khan, and Kim and Khloe Kardashian, to name a few.

Much like the wedding, there were also some incredibly lavish timepieces on show. We watch enthusiasts were treated to wonderful watch spotting, with celebrities wearing luxury pieces to match the extravagant event. But no one could match Anant Ambani’s display of wealth with the massive collection of extravagant timepieces.

In this latest Celebrity Watch Spotting article, we focus on 10 breathtaking timepieces in Anant Ambani’s watch collection, while also providing a broader look at his overall collection!

Anant Ambani Watch Collection

Patek Philippe – Grand Complications – Grandmaster Chime 6300G-010

The Patek Philippe Grand Complications Grandmaster Chime is the brand’s current most complicated timepiece. The timepiece boasts 20 different complications with a reversible face. What you see in the image above is actually the “back face” of the watch, showcasing the perpetual calendar complication. The development and assembly process of this timepiece takes over 100,000 hours, making this a truly unique timepiece. Check out our Celebrity Watch Spotting article on this timepiece (click here) for more insight into this amazing creation!

Model Reference: 6300G-010

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $9,135,000

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon

This stunning Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon was released in 2014. The majority of the watch is crafted in white ceramic, including the crown, bezel chronograph pushers, and upper plate of the movement. The movement has an incredible 10-day power reserve, showcasing Audemars Piguet’s expertise in materials and watchmaking engineering.

Model Reference: 26580IO.OO.D010CA.01

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $230,000

Richard Mille – RM 52-05 Manual Winding Tourbillon Pharrell Williams

The Richard Mille Pharrell Williams RM 52-05 is the first timepiece to bear the singer’s name, conjuring the visions, fantasies and other imaginary projections of Pharrell into the design of this otherworldly timepiece. The timepiece is artfully created to showcase the galaxy, a source of inspiration for the singer and rapper. Besides the creative design on the dial, the timepiece also boasts mechanical complexity as the movement features a fast rotating barrel and free-spring balance with variable inertia as two upgrades to the standard automatic movement.

Model Reference: RM52-05

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $2,582,500

Patek Philippe – Sky Moon Tourbillon

Another incredible Grand Complication timepiece spotted on Ambani’s wrist was the Sky Moon Tourbillon. This is Patek Phillipes’ current second most complicated watch (the first being the Grandmaster Chime above!). Like the Grandmaster Chime, the Sky Moon Tourbillon has displays on both the front dial and case back. The complications on the dial side include a perpetual calendar, civil time, and moon phase, while the back face shows astronomical complications!

Model Reference: 6002R-001 

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $8,750,000

Patek Philippe – Nautilus Travel Time Ruby 5990/1422G

Patek Philippe presented this rare Nautilus Travel Time in various gem-set colours. This particular model spotted on Ambani’s wrist is the Ruby version, with the watch being presented in ruby gems set into the bezel and bracelet, surrounded by baguette diamonds. The travel time features dual time zone complications and is perfect for the luxury travel connoisseur.

Model Reference: 5990/1422G

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $1,972,740

Patek Philippe – Travel Time Emerald 5990/1422G

Ambani clearly seems to be a fan of this travel time gem-set Patek Phillipe, with him two out of the three models. This time, it is the extremely rare emerald gem-set timepiece. It follows the exact same design as the ruby version above, with the emerald gemstones swapping out the ruby ones. These timepieces are indeed very rare, as the brand released them in 2021 and are only available to the VVIP clientele. Amabni now only needs the blue sapphire version to complete the gem-set!

Model Reference: 5990/1422G-001

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $2,241,750

Richard Mille – RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon

On the back of Richard Mille’s tremendous challenge of creating a sapphire case timepiece being overcome with the creation of the RM 056 in 2011, the brand released several variants thereafter, including the RM 56-02 Sapphire. The timepiece took cues from the mechanical architecture of the RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal, and its cable-suspended movement is at the pinnacle of transparency. The timepiece is manual wound and is limited to just 10 pieces.

Model Reference: RM 56-02

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $6,874,700.

Richard Mille – RM35-01 Rafael Nadal

The Richard Mille RM35-01 White NTPT is a timepiece dedicated to Rafael Nadal. Created in conjunction with the Tennis superstar, the watch features a case in NTPT carbon, a brand new material to watchmaking at the time of its release. NTPT translates to North Thin Ply Technology, and it has been used previously for the sails of racing yachts, aeronautics and Formula 1 racing.

Model Reference:  RM35-01 WHITE NTPT

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $601,300

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Full Diamond

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Full Diamond takes one of the brand’s most sought-after models and gives it a glamorous makeover. The 18-carat pink gold timepiece is set with 436 baguette cut diamonds that are placed on the bracelet, bezel and crown to give a stunning shimmering appearance that makes way for a skeletonised dial showing the double balance wheel movement.

Model Reference:  15417OR.ZZ.1267OR.01.A

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $2,540,650

Richard Mille – RMS-10 Koi Fish Tourbillon

Another Richard Mille that was spotted on Ambani’s wrist was the Koi Fish Tourbillon RMS-10. The timepiece features a beautiful artistic display, where 3D Koi fish appear to swim through the gears and movement of the watch. Adding to the “bling” factor of the watch is the case being made from 18K rose gold, with diamonds encrusting the sides and face of the case.

Model Reference: RMS-10

Approximate Australian Price: AUD $1,868,125

Other Timepieces In Anant Ambani’s Watch Collection

2024 has already been a good year to be an NBA fan. That is, unless you are a Dallas Mavericks supporter – In exciting yet inevitable fashion, the Boston Celtics finally won an NBA Championship after sixteen years. But as the confetti is brushed away in TD Garden, preparation has already commenced for the 2025 Season.

The 78th Annual NBA Draft has now come and gone, with the attention now focussed on the finest emerging superstars in basketball. Although the talent of these athletes is not to be underestimated, our focus is more on their wrists than their skills! Hublot, a known supporter of the world’s most talented athletes, are proud to recognise that some of their iconic models were present alongside these future legends. These are the four Hublot watches that made their presence known at the Brooklyn Barclays Center this year.

Isaiah Collier & Cody Williams: Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic 42mm

Isaiah Collier and Cody Williams had the same idea coming into this year’s draft, but that’s not a bad thing! The former, a Marietta, Georgia native, played guard for the USC Trojans before being drafted into the Utah Jazz. He has also notably won both the 2023 Naismith Prep Player of the Year award and was even crowned Mr. Georgia Basketball, declared as the best player in the entire state. The latter, also drafted into the Jazz, hails from San Luis Obispo, California. His reputation is similarly stacked, having been selected to play in the Pac-12 All Freshman Team and the 2023 McDonald’s All-American Boys game, in which Williams would compete against Collier.

Now that they’re teammates, it’s good to see that things have gone off on the right wrist, as both boys would be spotted at the draft wearing the 42mm Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic. Initially introduced in 2005/06, the Black Magic has become a staple of practically every Hublot collection with its lightweight and scratch-resistant black ceramic case. The matte black dial finish only served to enhance the sleek modern aesthetic, and serves as the ideal piece for two of the NBA’s future superstars.

Reference: 542.CM.1171.RX

Australian Retail Pricing: 14,600.00

Specification:

• Size: 42mm
• Case: Black Ceramic
• Dial: Matte Black
• Movement: Automatic HUB1110 Movement
• Power reserve: 42hrs
• Water resistance: 5bar (50 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective coating
• Case back: Steel case-back.
• Strap: Black Rubber with Ceramic Folding Clasp

Ron Holland: Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic 42mm Chronograph

For Ron Holland’s Hublot, The Classic Fusion Black Magic seemed to not have been doing it for him. The Duncanville, Texas power forward opted for the 42mm chronograph rendition of the ceramic timepiece, backed by the HUB1153 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

The Black Magic Chronograph is a stealthy statement piece perfect for Holland. While he has also played in the 2023 McDonald’s All Boy’s Game, he has also represented the United States in the FIBA Americas Under-16 and the Under-17 World Cup in Spain – both of which he won gold medals for. He also took Duncanville High School to an unprecedented 29-1 record in this past season! As he was drafted into the Detroit Pistons, the Black Magic Chronograph would accompany him at the start of his journey to the NBA.

Reference: 542.CM.1171.RX

Australian Retail Pricing: 18,400.00

Specification:

• Size: 42mm
• Case: Black Ceramic
• Dial: Matt Black
• Movement: Automatic HUB1153 Chronograph Movement
• Power reserve: 42hrs
• Water resistance: 5bar (50 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective coating
• Case back: Steel case-back.
• Strap: Black Rubber with Ceramic Folding Clasp

Devin Carter: Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey 42mm Chronograph

Moving away from the Black Magic pieces is Devin Carter. From sunny Miami, Florida, Devin has some generational experience with the NBA – his father, Anthony Carter, was hired as a player development coach for the Miami Heat. Although a shoulder injury would cut his senior career tragically short, it wouldn’t stop him from becoming 2024’s Big East Player of the Year.

Drafted into the Sacramento Kings, Devin’s weapon of choice is the titanium Classic Fusion Racing Grey Chronograph. Again backed by the HUB1153 chronograph movement, this Classic Fusion may not be as exceptionally scratch resistant as ceramic, but wears exceptionally light and is incredibly tough. Resistant to corrosion, heat, and pressure, this timepiece is a resilient as Devin himself.

Reference: 541.NX.7070.RX

Australian Retail Pricing: 16,800.00

Specification:

• Size: 42mm
• Case: Titanium
• Dial: Grey
• Movement: Automatic HUB1153 Chronograph Movement
• Power reserve: 42hrs
• Water resistance: 5bar (50 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective coating
• Case back: Steel case-back.
• Strap: Black Rubber with Steel Folding Clasp

Jared McCain: Hublot Classic Fusion Yellow Gold 42mm Chronograph

Finally, Jared McCain also wears a Classic Fusion chronograph, but this time he has opted to make it a little more extravagant. Similar to Isaiah Collier, Jared was also named Mr. Basketball in California, and has also won a gold medal in the FIBA Americas Under-18 Championship in Mexico. Up until the draft, he played for the Duke Blue Devils, a reputable college team that has the fifth-most NCAA basketball wins of all time.

His draft into the Philadelphia 76ers was met with a Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph in 18k yellow gold. As opposed to his peers, the yellow gold makes an extremely loud yet elegant statement at the draft, putting all eyes on the young prospect before he has even played a game.

Reference: 541.VX.1130.RX

Australian Retail Pricing: 44,100.00

Specification:

• Size: 42mm
• Case: 18k Yellow Gold
• Dial: Black
• Movement: Automatic HUB1153 Movement
• Power reserve: 42hrs
• Water resistance: 5bar (50 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective coating
• Case back: Steel case-back.
• Strap: Black Rubber with Ceramic Folding Clasp

Final Thoughts:

It’s always awesome to see the watch world collide with other cultures, particularly in sports. While watch brands have been pervasive in all cultures, the fact that it’s been widely accepted somewhat makes it less special.

However, it’s good to know that brands like Hublot don’t look to steal the spotlight at these events, but instead opt to elevate those that wear it! For these five prospects, the pressure is on for them to strive for excellence in every form – and Hublot is all too familiar with that concept. I look forward to seeing them play on the court, as well as seeing their watch game evolve off the court!