Opinion – Watch Advice

6 Incredible Mechanical Digital Time Watches!

Mario C — Wed, 27 Nov 2024 10:33:00 +0000

Who says you can’t mix digital and mechanical together? In this article, we delve into the marvels of those who are taking mechanical pieces of art and displaying the time digitally…

Digital time is such an underrated complication in mechanical watches. Yes, you can access digital time on practically any screen, phone, or piece of wearable tech these days. But, it’s infinitely more satisfying to see how mad craftsmen the world over have harnessed digital time displays through flawless feats of engineering. This list comprises some of my favourites that represent the very best of this complication!

1 – Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by V A N G U A R T (@vanguart)

I just had to talk about this one, as I can confidently say it’s one of the most incredible feats of microengineering have ever seen. Vanguart is a fairly new independent brand in the haute horlogerie scene, having been founded in 2017 by Axel Leuenberger, Jeremy Frelechox, Thierry Fischer, and Mehmet Korutürk. Leuenberger and Frelechox are both seasoned veterans of APRP (Audemars Piguet, Renaud & Papi) and Fischer is a seasoned watch designer, with Korutürk standing as the President of the company.

Despite its gargantuan 49mm wide, 48mm long and 10.5mm thick stature, the Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon’s design is as abstract as it is organic and sleek. Every line of the watch flows seamlessly, with no visible screws or pins. This allows for an alien, yet seamless wearing experience – a credit towards the design chops of Fischer. The dial features three concentric rings of Arabic numerals, designed with a subtle concave shape to enhance the illusion of depth. A tourbillon has been placed into the centre of the dial, evocative of the timepiece’s namesake.

2 – Amida Digitrend

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by AMIDA Watches (@amida_watches)

Certainly in more accessible territory is Amida, which has burst onto the scene in 2024 after nearly five decades in hibernation. Founded in 1925 in Granges, Switzerland, the fledgling watch company would be one of many brands unfortunately swept up in the Quartz Crisis, collapsing in 1979. The Digitrend, introduced three years prior at the Basel Fair, would become one of the company’s crowning achievements. One of the first casquette watches in the world, the Amida Digitrend’s modern (for the time) driver-style design became an immediate sensation.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by AMIDA Watches (@amida_watches)

In 2024, the brand was brought back into the limelight thanks to a renewed Amida crew, led by Matthieu Allègre and Clément Meynier. Naturally, the Digitrend was the first place they decided to go, resulting in a faithful remaster of their most iconic watch. The smooth, retro-futuristic design features a 39.6mm x 39 x 15.6mm monobloc brushed stainless steel case, accompanied by either a brushed steel strap or one of black Alcantara textile.

The core of the Amida Digitrend is powered by an automatic Soprod Newton P092 movement, with a respectable 44-hour power reserve and specialist modifications for the time display. At first glance, a horizontal time display the way that Amida does it seems to have ‘engineering nightmare’ written all over it. However, that is far from the truth – in 1973, Amida was able to solve this simple problem by way of optical illusion, utilising reflective crystal prisms to reflect light similarly to a submarine’s periscope.

3 – A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by A. Lange & Söhne (@alangesoehne)

Of course, we can’t talk about digital time without talking about what I deem to be the world-beater of the digital time complicatiion. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk collection, initially released in 2008, is one of the more abstract offerings from the Glashütte-based brand. At 41.9mm in case diameter and standing 12.2mm thick, it’s certainly not your typical delicate dress watch. But, the insane level of mechanical and aesthetic complexity has made it one of the most desirable timepieces around.

So much so, that A. Lange & Söhne have released six different versions of the Zeitwerk (German for ‘time work’) as of 2024. This includes an assortment of additional features such as: date wheels; minute repeater and decimal strike complications; translucent dials; and further accompanied by cases of platinum, white gold and their proprietary HONEYGOLD®!

4 – Franck Müller Curvex CX Master Jumper

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Franck Muller Geneve (@franckmuller_geneve)

However, if there’s anyone that’s going to contend with A. Lange & Söhne in the digital time arena, Franck Müller is a brand that would be eager to step up to the plate. Unveiled in July 2023, the Curvex CX Master Jumper series is one of those timepieces that can either establish or re-establish a legacy. For Franck Müller, a brand that has lost some popularity in the Western world, it does the latter, permitting them to gleefully live up to their reputation as the ‘Master of Complications.’

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Franck Muller Geneve (@franckmuller_geneve)

Presented in a 40mm x 55.4mm x 10.8mm case, the Curvex CX Master Jumper proves that, for a mechanical watch, no hands is no problem. The dial is completely barren, save for the simple yet elaborate guilloché and three vertically aligned digital displays. These displays tell the hour, minute, and date respectively, and are connected by a circular cut-out meant to evoke the image of the movement on the front of the dial.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Franck Muller Geneve (@franckmuller_geneve)

Speaking of movement, the Franck Müller Curvex CX Master Jumper contains the manual wind Cal. MVT FM 3100-C1, which powers all the above complications with ease. Yes, it only has about 30 hours of power reserve, but a watch like this is hardly suited for everyday wear (unless you can afford it). Additionally, Franck Müller also has to contend with not just the complications, but the challenges of restricting their engineering prowess to the confines of the Curvex case. At the end of the day, it’s a beautifully designed watch, and Franck Müller has invested their time to ensure that the movement perfectly fits into the case. And for that, I think it’s a kick-ass statement piece.

Availability: Upon Request, International RRP CHF72,800 (Rose/white gold). Find out more at Franck Müller’s official website.

5 – De Bethune DBD

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by De Bethune (@de_bethune)

6 – IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches)

As I said, to move forward in the watch industry is to look back. IWC proved to be no exception to the rule, as the Schaffhausen-based brand is highly regarded to be one of the progenitors of the digital time complication with the Pallweber pocket watch. Invented by Josef Pallweber in 1883, he would grant the production licenses to IWC, who would make and sell over 16,000 copies of Pallweber’s invention until the 1890s.

OPINION: Beyond The Runway – Why ‘Fashion Watches’ Matter (And Always Have!)

Mario C — Wed, 03 Jul 2024 06:00:00 +0000

In this article, we take a deep dive into what the ‘fashion watch’ is, and address the misconceptions that the watch world has about them.

Ever since I wrote my article regarding Five of the Best Watches from High Fashion Houses, I’ve been thinking about how much outsider brands have been influencing horology. Yet, not many people seem to be talking about them – other than the occasional social media vitriol that bubbles up to the surface, courtesy of some gatekeeping dissident of the watch community.

Although gatekeeping is present in virtually every niche interest (goodness knows how many times I’ve been called a ‘casual’ while watching MMA), watchmaking seems to have the most vocal and cannibalistic minority. ‘[brand name] is much better than [brand name],’ ‘never wear a watch from [brand name],’ ‘[brand name] is the only watch brand you should wear’ – the list goes on.

One term I see constantly cropping up, however, is ‘fashion watch:’ A controversial term in the industry, and one often used to keep others from enjoying timepieces from nontraditional watchmaking brands regardless of their merits. But are they all as bad as the naysayers tell you they are? Are these ‘non-watch’ brands truly dedicated to the artistic expression and technical expertise of horology? And do established watchmakers like Cartier fall into this classification?

More Than A Brand Name

But what exactly is a ‘fashion watch?’ To reiterate from my previous articles, the term is generally used by the watch community to classify any watch made by a nontraditional watch company. For some, it’s a derogatory term closely associated with cheaply-made, poor-quality timepieces created solely for branding purposes. These pieces, varying in their successes, commonly reflect a lack of respect for the art form.

In horology, ‘fashion watch’ is a dangerous term, as it also inadvertently undermines the legitimacy of any brands wishing to defy such stereotypes. It promotes the idea that faceless corporations are exploiting watchmaking’s platform for profit in favour of mass-produced products.

The reality, however, is far from the truth: There are several brands that, despite their ‘fashion watch’ label, have made significant strides to distinguish themselves in both design and craftsmanship. For instance, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps workshop houses two of the ten remaining master watchmakers in the world. Chanel owns half of the manufacturing company Kenissi, reputable for creating movements for Tudor. Parisian leather makers Hermès own a 25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, who also make movements for Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, and TAG Heuer’s haute horlogerie division. Even Gucci, who up until recently shared a parent company with Girard Perregeaux and Ulysse Nardin (who have now gone fully independent), now possesses in-house micro-rotor and tourbillon movements.

Despite these achievements, one could argue that these companies aren’t succeeding in the watch world off of their own merits. Instead, they are acquiring the expertise of others to do the job for them, leveraging their amassed wealth and collective business acumen. Again, this promotes an ‘Us vs Them’ mentality within the community, which is also fundamentally flawed.

There is evidence to suggest that, as opposed to a complete hostile takeover of the industry, these companies are also driven by a genuine passion for horology. Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani, for example, are both known to be longtime watch nerds. As such, they have collaborated with significant players in the industry to ensure their own offerings are up to snuff. Ralph Lauren’s brand utilises calibres from both Piaget and Jaeger-LeCoultre for their collections, whilst the Giorgio Armani 11 is a vast departure from the commonly found Emporio Armani timepieces, created in collaboration with Parmigiani Fleurier.

Ralph Lauren’s Polo Vintage 67 (Left) and Giorgio Armani’s 11 (Right) are both timepieces informed by their respective founders’ enthusiasm for watchmaking.

This isn’t an entirely new concept, either – Montblanc has made frequent appearances at Watches and Wonders, and is reputable for releasing classically designed timepieces with incredible craftsmanship and innovative technologies (more on that later). However, their upmarket movement strategy was most likely expedited by their own acquisition of watch company Minerva in 2007. These days, you don’t get many eyebrows raised at the pen makers regarding their place in horology, so who’s to say that others shouldn’t earn their stripes any time soon?

The Cartier Paradox

Circling back a little bit, ‘fashion watch’ is a boogeyman term, used by those who only see timepieces from ‘non-watch’ brands as platforms for branding clout. To them, ‘non-watch’ brands are devolving the industry into nothing more than status symbols, ‘flex pieces’ for those wishing to flaunt that they have more dollars than sense.

While major watch brands engage in similar tactics, their reputations are built on a legacy of watchmaking. Thus, their branding is ‘more justifiable’ as it has a perceived legitimacy that outsiders lack. It implies that, because a company has been making watches for a long time, they automatically know what makes a good watch.

The belief that ‘non-watch’ brands are illegitimate due to a lack of relevant heritage and authenticity is completely unfounded. Historically, many ‘non-watch’ brands have been authentically navigating their way into the watch world for far longer than their objectors realise.

Perhaps the biggest detractor of this popular argument is Cartier. Founded in 1847 as a jeweller, their contributions to the watch world would not occur until 57 years into their tenure; In 1904, the founder’s grandson, Louis Joseph Cartier, would invent the Cartier Santos – the world’s first wristwatch.

Innovation From Anywhere

Ultimately, what does it matter whose name is on the watch if it’s something that’s attractive, high-quality, and meets the expectations of the budding enthusiast? Depending on who you ask, however, quite a bit. The watch community feeds into the mentality that the only worthwhile contributions to the watchmaking industry are from brands that have only ever made watches. Most outsider brands are almost immediately ostracised by the vocal minority, regardless of their intentions or ability to invest time into the art form.

But, as Ratatouille character Chef Gusteau says, “Not everyone can be a great cook, but a great cook can come from anywhere.” Innovations and technical finesse should not be restricted to those ‘chosen few’ in the industry, as the watch world’s thoughts run the risk of being homogenised.

While this may seem ideal, the growing demand for sameness will provoke a response by the manufacturers. A slew of lukewarm timepieces will ensue, serving only to appease the gate-kept community and not the average consumer. This would effectively stagnate the creativity that this industry has been known for.

Yes, there are exceptions, but the message is the same: This industry demands innovation. Watches are an anachronistic accessory, and consistently ‘breaking the mould’ is what prevents the industry from falling into irrelevancy. If that means letting outsider brands explore the art for themselves, so be it – See what they’ve achieved already!

Bulgari recently topped Richard Mille to create the world’s thinnest wristwatch for the second time. The aforementioned Montblanc has recently experimented with the “Zero Oxygen” concept at Watches & Wonders Camera company Leica has developed a new hacking seconds mechanism with zero-reset abilities at the push of a button. Chanel has been working with high-tech ceramics ever since the release of the J12, and Porsche Design was responsible for the world’s first all-black wristwatch in 1972!

To say that only the established watch brands of the world are capable of innovation is folly. The contributions of these so-called ‘non-watch’ brands is difficult to ignore, and the integration of new design and technical philosophies is what drives the industry to be vibrant, dynamic, and compelling for all.

The Future & Final Thoughts

As we look to the future of the watchmaking industry, it’s vital to realise the importance of the ‘fashion watch.’ There are so many brands unfairly pigeonholed into this term; It’s become difficult for the community to distinguish between the parties dedicated to horology and the ones simply looking to make a quick buck.

It’s because of these brands, however, that allow for a growing inclusivity in the watchmaking industry and has led us to the brink of a technical and creative renaissance. Fashion brands like Louis Vuitton and Hermès, jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, tech companies like Casio and Leica – all these brands are contributing or have contributed in shaping the horological landscape we know today.

In the future, this shift may not just improve the quality of design and craftsmanship but also democratise watchmaking as we know it. This will do away with the haughty exclusivity of yesteryear, allowing timepieces to be appreciated for what they are: high-quality expressions of both art and technical excellence.

Of course, the road is still long, and they face the same issue as any business straying away from their main niche: they’re not yet known for it. For the brands already integrating themselves at the upper echelons, this has been mitigated. For those known for making cheaply made, disposable timepieces, the issue is much worse.

The other point of contention is that, while I personally believe that the perception of a product should solely be based on how it performs, that’s not how marketing and branding work. There are many in the watchmaking community who have been raised to know which brands are good and which are not, and while the former comprises mostly of household names, moving outside this circle of trust can feel too risky.

I’m not proposing a conquest of the industry by ‘non-watch’ brands, though – precisely the opposite. They should be welcomed into the industry, and be allowed to invent, innovate and contend with every other established name. If we are able to embrace a unique and diverse input, it can only serve to make the industry better and more accessible, pushing the limit of watchmaking for generations to come.

What’s Your Ultimate Three-Watch Collection?

Matt Clymo — Mon, 24 Jun 2024 08:40:33 +0000

We asked the team here at Watch Advice, and here are their picks for a three-watch collection, where money is no object! (Ah we can dream can’t we?!)

If you’re a watch lover, and someone asks you, “If you could buy any watch in the world and you had unlimited funds, what three watches would you pick as your ultimate three-piece collection?” The answer usually starts along the lines of “That’s easy” followed by, “Hang on, maybe this one, oh wait, no this piece…” and so on. It is a ‘How long is a piece of string’ question, as there are so many choices out there! When we asked the Watch Advice team this exact question, the answers were along those lines, so we thought, why not have a good think about it, and then let’s pick three each and see what we all chose and why.

Matt’s Three Watch Collection

This was a hard one for me, as I’m traditionally more about functionality and versatility with my watches. But that’s me in real life now, but I’d like to think that with unlimited funds, then this would change substantially. In fact I know it would! But me being me, I would want to wear them all on a regular basis, so they need to be able to stand up to daily life. Hey, in this scenario I’ve now only got three watches to rotate across the week! So, here are my picks…

Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe

This is a grail of mine and one I would buy should I have the means to. It’s art and high horology at it’s best, and the best thing about this is, it’s a sports watch and designed to be worn with both form and function in perfect balance. With the curved case that hugs the wrist, the sports strap, curved sapphire crystal and that little globe spinning around to tell the world time, it is just a cool-looking watch.

GMT Balancier Convexe Specs

Dimensions: 43.5mm (at the base) x 17.4mm thick
Movement: Greubel Forsey Patented hand-wound movement
Material: Titanium
Power Reserve: 72hrs
RRP: US$400,000 (Approx A$600,000)

But the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe is more than good looks. The GMT function is ingenious with a summer and winter time zone function, the balance is on a 30 degree incline, seemingly suspended in air by a single black bridge and the globe is constantly rotating on a 24-hour cycle, mimicking the Earth’s rotation. Oh, and it’s 100m water resistant, so it’s ready for that active life!

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech

Now I know what you’re thinking. I can have any watch in the world and I choose a Panerai as one of my three. Well, the answer is yes as I’ve been a fan of Panerai since I can remember. In fact I’m wearing my 312 now as I write this. There is something about the unmistakable shape and design of a Panerai Luminor that I love, and given Panerai was one of my very first grail pieces over 10 years ago, I couldn’t have a three-watch collection without one. But, if I’m going in this direction, I want one with a complication or two, so the Perpetual Calendar in Platinumtech seems the right pick for me!

Luminor Perpetual Calendar Specs

Dimensions: 44mm x 53mm x 18mm thick
Movement: Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.4100 calibre
Material: Platinumtech
Power Reserve: 72hrs
RRP: A$108,600

The great thing about this perpetual calendar is that much of the functionality is on the caseback. Now this may seem weird, but on the front, you still have the Day, Date, Month (the 3rd hand indicates this) and timezone with AM/PM – so all the main useful functions you would want without altering the look of the dial aesthetic too much. The rest that you don’t need on a daily basis and used to set the watch is on the back. It’s a great blend of usability and technicality.

F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical

François-Paul Journe makes some incredible timepieces. With the attention to detail at all levels, his finishing is impeccable, even on parts that aren’t going to be seen with the eye. Hand Guilloched dials and expertly crafted parts all go together to make what is an F.P. Journe. And the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical is no exception featuring a vertically positioned tourbillon, hand guilloched dial, grand feu enamel dials for the time and deadbeat seconds, which was a first for F.P.Journe.

Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Specs

Dimensions: 42mm x 13.6mm thick
Movement: Manual wind Caliber 1519 with Hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve indicator, 30-second vertical tourbillon, remontoire d’egalité
Material: Platinum or 18k 6N rose gold
Power Reserve: 80hrs
RRP: CHF 248,400 (approx A$418,000) Discontinued

The F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical is one special piece and one that not many people will know, or appreciate in the general watch world. But for those that know, know why it is special and the quality and craftsmanship you’re getting from one of the world’s best watchmakers. Plus it looks stunning on the wrist…

Mario’s Three Watch Collection

Listen, I’m a sucker for unusual watch designs. Don’t go rattling about a Rolex Submariner and saying that it’s better for the ‘practicality’ – any watch above $250 bucks has already thrown practicality out the window, and that’s me being generous. I don’t want this to sound like I hate expensive watches, but I instead love them for what they are – ultimate forms of artistic expression, made portable and ‘alive,’ in a manner of speaking. So, if I had an unlimited budget for three watches, why bother trying to ‘cover all bases,’ or ‘stick to what’s necessary?’ You have unlimited money! Don’t be boring! That’s why these three are on my list:

MB&F: Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO (Orange)

A perpetual calendar is one of the most complex and expensive complications on the planet. MB&F is one of my favourite brands, both aesthetically and mechanically. So of course I was going to combine the two! The LMP EVO in orange was one of the first haute horlogerie watches that jumped out at me when I first got a taste of what this world could offer, and I don’t think any watches have captured my imagination since.

LM Perpetual EVO Specs

Dimensions: 44mm x 50.2mm x 17mm thick
Movement: MB&F perpetual calendar, manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Material: Zirconium
Power Reserve: 72hrs
RRP: 182,000 CHF (Approx $A$306,500)

Seeing Chamath’s LM101 in person almost made me scream, so seeing one of these would make me jump out of my seat like a KPOP fan. I did tell Chamath that I would be choosing the HM11 Architect over this one, but it’s the first watch that always gets you – and this has got me, bad.

Trilobe: Une Folle Journée (Blue)

Founded in 2018, Trilobe’s strange design is an immediate eye-catcher. ‘A watch with no hands?’ You may be saying. ‘Don’t you mean a bracelet?’ But the innovative use of rotating discs, accompanied by the symmetrical X-Centric micro-rotor movement, is a match made in heaven. I’m shocked I don’t see Trilobe talked about enough, especially since the price point seems reasonable in the context of their watchmaking quality.

Une Folle Journée Specs

Dimensions: 40.5mm x 48mm. 17.5mm thick (10.5 for the case, 7mm for crystal)
Movement: Calibre X-Centric, self-winding mechanical calibre with micro-rotor
Material: Grade 5 Titanium
Power Reserve: 48hrs
RRP: 23500€ (Approx $A$37,700)

Une Folle Journée just takes it a step further, by doming the crystal and exposing all the inner mechanics of every single disk. It’s a hypnotically camp design that is bound to draw endless attention and enjoyment from the user – as soon as they figure out what time it is.

Daniel Roth: Regulateur Tourbillon C187

In my first screening for the WatchAdvice writing position, Matt asked me ‘What would be your dream watch?’ My response was instant: Daniel Roth Regulateur Tourbillon, specifically reference C187. This has always and perhaps will forever be my dream watch – the odd yet elegant case shape, the two-minute tourbillon, the double-sided dial, the guilloché decorations, and the Roman numerals on an offset face…

Regulateur Tourbillon C187 Specs

Dimensions: 38mm x 35mm x 11mm
Movement: Tourbillon 1 minute manual winding
Material: Stainless Steel
Power Reserve: 42hrs
RRP: discontinued – limited to 20 pieces. A$338,205 (Chrono24)

It’s a highly complex watch, with a perfectly eclectic design and a hilariously insane level of engineering to back it all up – it’s the perfect watch for me. I’ve always said that, if I am ever able to purchase one watch that’ll get me out of the game forever, this is it. Of course, we’re still way too far off the saving goal at the moment – but a man can dream…

Sameera’s Three Watch Collection

When Matt asked me to choose three watches with an unlimited budget, I immediately thought of the watches on my grail list. But this is the more “achievable” list of watches. I got to thinking, well, if I had an unlimited amount to spend, would I still choose these timepieces? This sent me down quite the rabbit hole. However, I managed to compromise by still having grail pieces mixed with ultra-high-end luxury timepieces.

My thought process was that even though I had an unlimited amount to spend on these watches, I would still want to be able to wear them and not just store them away in some safe. For me, it’s about wearing and loving what the brands have spent countless hours designing, engineering and creating. With this in mind, I’ve split the three timepieces into daily, weekender, and “for a special event.”

Daily Wear

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Offshore (Ref. 26420CE.OO.A043VE.01)

This version of the Royal Oak Offshore is a watch that is on my grail list. Even though I would have unlimited money, this watch will always be in the collection regardless. While it may seem like a boring choice to some, for me, it’s the ideal daily wear timepiece. The colour combo is spot on for me, as I love the blue, black and white colour combination. As a daily wearer, the watch fits nicely as a luxury sports piece, making it a versatile choice for most outfits. It’s not an understated piece, that’s for sure, and will certainly be a great conversation starter. Having the choice of changing between a rubber strap and a leather strap also makes it comfortable to wear, another point to consider when choosing a daily wear timepiece.

Royal Oak Offshore Specifications

Dimensions: 43mm x 14.4mm thickness
Movement: Calibre 4401
Material: Black Ceramic
Power Reserve: 70hrs
RRP: Approx. $85,750 AUD

This version of the Royal Oak Offshore has a 43mm black ceramic case paired with a stunning blue ceramic bezel. The chronograph push buttons and winding crown are also blue, allowing the watch to repeatedly contrast the black and blue colours to a “stylish effect.”

The Weekender

Roger Dubuis – Knights Of The Round Table Titanium Damascus

The choice for the weekender timepiece was certainly tough. When you move away from a “daily” wear timepiece, and its restrictions, the haute horology world opens up with a vast number of highly complicated and intricate timepieces. One model that came to mind instantly, and I found a hard time trying to think past it, was a variation of the iconic Knights Of The Round Table by Roger Dubuis. I mean, does it get any cooler than 12 knights ready to fight on your timepiece?

Knights Of The Round Table Titanium Damascus Specifications

Dimensions: 45mm
Movement: Cal. RD821
Material: Titanium Damascus
Power Reserve: 48 hours
RRP: Approx. $562,700 AUD

This particular version has a Titanium Damascus case, with 12 pink-gold knights facing an icey centre, ready to fight what is about to break out of the frozen lake. The ice is made from unique Limoges biscuit porcelain, while the lake underneath is made from the Murano glass technique. Each of the 12 knights has its own unique expression and fighting pose, making this timepiece both a technical and aesthetic masterpiece.

The “Special Event”

Breguet – Classique Complications 3795

This timepiece, for me, is one that, as the name suggests, is reserved for a special occasion. A fancy dinner, black tie event or anything formal. I wanted to keep this timepiece more “traditional” in the sense of showing pure complications and let that be the aesthetic feature of the timepiece. For this category, three brands came to mind: Louis Moinet, Bovet and Breguet. All three brands make watches that are insanely complicated, especially Bovet. However, Breguet’s Classique Complications 3795 was the winner, with its beautifully skeletonised balanced dial showcasing the brand’s technicality and attention to detail, all in pure mechanical art form.

Classique Complications 3795

Dimensions: 41mm x 11.6mm thickness
Movement: Cal. 558T
Material: 18-carat rose gold
RRP: $451,200 AUD

The Breguet Classique Complications 3795 is offered in either an 18-carat rose gold or platinum case. The 18-carat rose gold, I feel, offers a nice colour contrast to the dial, with the platinum model mostly blending in with the dial aesthetics. The two main stand-out complications are the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar. There are retrograde dates indicated at 12 o’clock, days at 9 o’clock, months and leap years at 3 o’clock and small seconds on the tourbillon axis. While it may not host as many complications as its competitors, the dials’ skeletonised aesthetics of the complications is pure artistry.

Five of the Best Watches from High Fashion Houses

Mario C — Tue, 11 Jun 2024 11:09:23 +0000

The watch world is much larger than you think – while we often repeat the same five or six names ad nauseam, there is still much more to explore! For example: You may not know them for their watches, but here are some of the best timepieces from the realms of high fashion.

‘Fashion Watch’: A term that makes a lot of enthusiasts shudder at the mere mention of it. If you’re unfamiliar, the term often carries with it negative connotations – think cheaply made, drop shipped knockoffs with stamped logos, often made to get another quick buck out of the consumer.

Yet, in the arenas of haute couture and joaillerie, there are brands that have broken into the watch world to massive acclaim. Perhaps the biggest example is Cartier, who boasts iconic model after iconic model in their lineup of luxury timepieces. However, there are so many others who similarly respect the watch game, which is reflected in their own creations’ artistry and craftsmanship. Here are five of those brands that use their vast knowledge of the luxury space to go far beyond the simple and tacky branding that ‘fashion watches’ are often lampooned for.

Chanel J12

Chanel has long been a powerhouse of high fashion. The Classic handbag, N°5 fragrance, and the Boucle tweed jacket are just a handful of instances where Chanel has left her indelible mark on the fashion landscape. Relatively young in the watch world, they would enter the scene in 1987 thanks to longtime artistic director Jacques Hélleu with the aptly named Première collection. However, the release of the J12 at the turn of the millennium would cement their name as a staple of modern horology.

With its sleek and minimalist design, the unisex 38mm J12 exudes an elegance that captivates watch enthusiasts, yet does so whilst embodying the refinement synonymous with Chanel’s original ethos. Constructed from high-grade ceramic, it’s durable and lustrous, but don’t let appearances fool you. The J12, in classic Chanel fashion, is as pretty as it is capable – 200m water resistance and a diver-style unidirectional turning bezel transforms it from a novelty accessory into a ruthless Go Anywhere, Do Anything (GADA) tool watch.

What’s even crazier is that the J12 is also COSC Chronometer Certified, but you wouldn’t know it just by looking. Inside the J12 is the Cal. 12.1, based on the MT54 family of Tudor movements. Chanel doesn’t mess around with their watchmaking – they’ve not only borrowed Tudor’s movements but they also own half of the company behind them, Kenissi. Also, Fun fact – The Chanel J12 is the only watch in this entire article that has a standalone Wikipedia page. Neither the AP Royal Oak nor the Patek Philippe nautilus has one!

Learn more about and browse the Chanel J12 collection here

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo

Founded in 1884 by a Greek silversmith in Rome, Bulgari’s impact on the fashion world was palpable, helping to popularise the Art Deco movement through their inspired use of jewellery and precious gemstones. However, the Bulgari family has maintained an interest in watchmaking since the 20th Century. They began with simple gem-set watches, but their timepieces would evolve and eventually become renowned for their artistic finesse and precision.

No watch in their lineup expresses this more soundly than that of the Octo Finissimo. Commonly associated with legendary watch designer Gérald Genta, the Octo collection seamlessly blends brutalist aesthetics with exceptional engineering and technical innovation. The 40mm Octo Finissimo lineup takes those elements and not only refines them but also slims them down.

The slimness of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo

And I mean slim down literally. Powered by the BVL 138 micro-rotor movement, the watch has a 60-hour power reserve but stands at a remarkable 5mm thick. To put it in perspective, 5mm is about as thick as a pencil eraser! It’s a wonder that they’re able to make a watch in a space that small.

Introduced in 2012, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has quickly become a darling of the Bulgari roster, having been accompanied by a wide variety of limited editions. From a collaboration with famed architect Tadao Ando to this year’s revival of Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani’s Sketch Edition, there is no artistic height that Bulgari cannot reach, and no record they aren’t willing to break. Speaking of, they just did – one of their newest Octo Finissimo novelties is the thinnest watch in the world!

Learn more about and browse the Bulgari Octo lineup here!

Tiffany & Co. x Onlywatch Bird On a Rock

Tiffany & Co.’s significance in the world of jewellery is undeniable, as is their impact on the watch world. Their patented blue is pervasive in both realms, transcending both to become a staple of the luxury world. It’s only right, then, that this veritable juggernaut of the industry has a timepiece they can proudly call their own. I’m not talking about just any old timepiece, nor am I talking about the endless array of Tiffany Blue watch dials – Tiffany & Co.’s Bird On a Rock is a completely different beast.

Designed for the 2023/24 OnlyWatch auction, this Tiffany & Co. original was handcrafted by their Swiss artisans, a re-imagining of the brooch created in 1965 by iconic jewellery designer Jean Schlumberger. Powered by a manual mind LTM2000 movement with a 38-hour power reserve, this piece was not meant for a wrist but is to be worn as a pendant!

Upon inspection, it’s exactly how it should be. The timepiece is encased in 18k yellow gold atop a 34 carat faceted aquamarine; The bird itself is platinum, gold, and diamonds with pink sapphire eyes; both the crown and diamonds are also similarly further set with diamonds. If it wasn’t already apparent, Tiffany & Co. love their gemstones.

A dizzying array of light, The Bird On a Rock is a timepiece that uses watchmaking as a vehicle to further demonstrate the brand’s mastery of high jewellery and is exemplary of Tiffany & Co.’s legendary status in both worlds.

Learn more about the Tiffany & Co. Bird On a Rock here!

Hermès H08

Hermès is undoubtedly one of my favourite fashion brands ever. To be honest, it’s not even because of the products they make – they were my first ever luxury retail experience outside of dealing with watch brands, and they’ve been nothing but kind to me, especially since I just go in mostly to look at stuff to put on a wishlist.

Even still, the French fashion house has remained a significant player in the luxury industry. Beginning as an expert leather goods brand, they have grown to be commonly associated with the A-Listers, popular with iconic figures such as Princess Grace Kelly and the irreplaceable Jane Birkin, whose titular Hermès bag is one of the highest symbols of exclusivity today.

With a watchmaking legacy spanning over a century, it’s no surprise that Hermès doesn’t take horology lightly. While they are still coming off their most recent successes in the field with the Hermès Cut, and the Arceau Duc Atellé, it’s their 2021 release that began to set themselves apart from the rest of the competition.

The H08 is a uniquely contemporary sports watch offering by the fashion house conceived by Hermès’ creative director Philippe Delhotal, who formerly worked for Patek Philippe in the same role – with experience like that behind them, you know that these watches were never destined for disappointment. Standing at 39mm in case diameter (for some reason Hermès says 42, which is the lug-to-lug), the square H08 is unlike any other sports watch offering on the market. The design, from case shape to font, is wholly original, hearkening back to Hermès’ design language rather than extrapolating the popular elements of other popular sports watch models. It almost feels like a conceptual piece that was destined for an art museum, but ended up on the wrists of prospecting enthusiasts instead!

Similarly to Chanel, Hermès doesn’t shy away from hardcore mechanical engineering. The H08’s Cal. H1837 delivers a comfortable 50 hours of power reserve, which they made using Vaucher Manufacturer Fleurier. Hermès owns a 25% stake in Vaucher, whose other work includes making movements for Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille among others.

All this technical excellence backed by a durable rubber strap and a case constructed of varying materials. Over the years, Hermès has been able to experiment with titanium, 18k rose gold, ceramic, graphene and even slate fibreglass as the primary case material of the H08.

Learn more about the H08 collection here!

Louis Vuitton Tambour

Louis Vuitton’s recent ventures into the horological sphere are perhaps some of the best examples of what an era fashion-forward watchmaking looks like. Known for their revolutionary and trend-setting designs in all forms of fashion and life, LV’s approach to watchmaking has been fraught with challenges and general pushback from enthusiasts and consumers alike.

That’s why Jean Arnault, lead director of LV’s watchmaking arm, took an incredibly risky gambit: He essentially threw everything out the window and started them over from scratch. As it turned out, that gambit paid off, as the new Louis Vuitton Tambour was the result.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg)

This newest iteration of the Tambour has preserved the beloved design language of the original, but with a couple of new twists to give it a breath of fresh air. Louis Vuitton has maintained the drum-like shape of the Tambour, but with a slimmer profile and added integrated bracelet, expressing both sporty versatility and dressy appeal. All the new models have the same dial layout, with a small second hand and Arabic numerals for maximum legibility and freedom to style the timepiece however you please.

Like all the other companies before, the LV Tambour takes watchmaking to the extreme. The luxury juggernaut owns their own Swiss watch manufactory, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which they now use to make their Tambour’s LFT023. This movement is complete with the industry standard 4Hz (28,800bph) beat rate, 50 hours of power reserve, COSC Chronometer certification, and a level of finishing that defies all stereotypes of a ‘fashion watch.’ Plus, I’m a sucker for micro-rotor movements, so in my book this is an absolute win.

Learn more and browse the Tambour collection here!

Final Thoughts

So, despite ‘fashion watch’ being a dirty word, it does make me happy to know that there are many brands that seek to defy such conventions. While maybe they aren’t accessible to the general public (the truest definition of ‘luxury’), these five pieces prove that watchmaking as an industry is becoming more accessible to any brand that wishes to be a part of it.

You can see it from the microbrand perspective, the independent perspective, and from here – companies generally considered watchmaking’s ‘outsiders,’ operating a levels that closely compete with homegrown brands. It shows a lot of promise for the future of the watch world, and is bound to keep captivating audiences far into the future. There’s no fun in watching the same teams over and over again – it’s always more interesting to see new players in the mix.

These Watch Collabs Don’t Exist (But I Wish They Did!)

Mario C — Mon, 01 Apr 2024 11:15:28 +0000

Watch collaborations, once theory and ‘politics,’ now flood the landscape of the industry. But what makes a good watch collab? More importantly, what do I think that certain companies are missing out on?

Watch culture has changed significantly over the last few years, and now collaborations seem to be at the forefront of both the normal fashion world and our niche watch market. Everybody seems to want a piece of everyone else! But what makes a collaboration in the watch industry special? And what else could we be seeing out there? I’ve got a few ideas.

Oris: With Our Powers Combined…

One of the most compelling arguments out there for a watch collaboration is through shared core values. The synergy between brand and collaborator is of utmost importance and can get easily confused if the collaboration just blends logos with no creative direction. When the two come together and share a common principle, that needs to be defined and purposeful, capturing the hearts, minds, and eventually the wallets of their respective audiences.

To me, no brand is better at conveying this than Oris. The independent Swiss brand takes pride in its environmental principles, having invested heavily in environmental sustainability and conservation projects, as well as celebrating its climate neutrality in 2021. It’s a value that has translated beautifully into their watches – Aside from their ever-popular Oris Aquis Date Upcycle, a more recent addition to the Oris lineup is their latest collaboration with Bracenet. Bracenet is a company that creates bracelets from upcycled fishing nets, and their core values line up serendipitously with Oris’. So it’s of no surprise to anyone that they decided to team up, thus producing a unique Oris Aquis sporting a kaleidoscopic dial made from the same material. It’s a noble joint vision that comes to fruition in a gorgeous timepiece and one that has the respect of not just myself, but the Oris, Bracenet, and environmental communities.

The Oris Aquis Date Bracenet.

This is exactly why I think they can do so much more! I think that, in the context of shared core values, Oris should look into doing a series of watches with the WWF. No, not the Attitude Era wrestling company, the World Wide Fund for Nature. The WWF is the mother of all environmental conservation foundations, having been founded in 1961 to combat the effects of humanity on animal and environmental welfare. Not to mention, the WWF is based in Switzerland, as is Oris, so geographically speaking they are about a two-hour drive away from being able to team up!

Yes, I searched it up – it takes about 2 hours and 6 minutes to drive from Holstein (Oris’ HQ) to Gland (WWF’s HQ). Switzerland is a small place.

It’s not that far-fetched of an idea, either – WWF has already collaborated with the likes of Meistersinger for their Edition Planet Earth watch, so the avenue is there for them to do it. This time around, Oris should shift their focus from the environment as a whole. Instead, I think Oris should focus on paying tribute to the beauty of some of the world’s endangered animals, spreading awareness whilst creating a respectful collaboration with an inspired design. For example, I would love to see an Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five Chrono with a colourway reminiscent of the Red Panda (Ailurus Fulgens), a ProPilot X bearing the patterns of the Monarch Butterfly (Danaus Plexippus), or perhaps a tribute to the funniest scientific name in history – an Oris Big Crown dedicated to the Western Lowland Gorilla (Gorilla Gorilla Gorilla).

The Meistersinger x WWF Edition Planet Earth

Zenith: Gotta Go Fast

Though sharing core values is a feasible touchpoint for a collaborative effort, it’s not the only one. Sometimes, for a collaboration to be successful, you need to create a watch that doesn’t just appeal to the core values of the brand and collaborator but also appeals to the values of their respective audiences. Of course, the ideal scenario is that the values of brands and consumers align, but when that is not the case, it’s best to listen to what the audience is looking for.

Zenith has been a shining star (no pun intended) in that aspect, being able to draw in the subcultures of both parties with their timepieces. One that comes to mind is their collaboration with Aaron Rodgers in 2023, attracting the NFL community as much as the watch community where neither are seen together all that often. For us Australians, it may not mean too much, but Aaron Rodgers is a rather big deal for our American compatriots, having been a star quarterback in both the Green Bay Packers and the New York Jets – both of which are good football teams, depending on who you ask (and of course, whichever one has Aaron Rodgers on the field).

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Aaron Rodgers.

Zenith has effortlessly shown that they can reach two opposing audiences at the same time – a phrase easier said than done. So why not challenge themselves further? Following in the footsteps of their LVMH brother TAG Heuer, it would be fun to explore a collaboration within the videogame sphere. This is why I think that a Zenith and Sonic Collaboration would also be fun to explore. It’s not LVMH’s first rodeo with regards to whimsical videogame collaborations, although I think for a watch brand with the heritage and manufacturing calibre of Zenith it would be a fine line to tread, albeit a fun one.

The TAG Heuer x Super Mario Formula One collection.

In all seriousness though, a blue dial/blue bezel Chronomaster Sport with some sleek, futuristic design elements from the Sonic universe would be amazing. The swiftness of the ten-second chronograph coincides with the fast life the SEGA icon lives. Throw that into a brushed titanium case with the hedgehog’s silhouette on the case back, three different shades of blue on the sub-dial as well as a skeletonized version of the Sonic Ball as the chronograph seconds’ counterbalance, and you’re all set!

Sonic the Hedgehog’s silhouette logo. Credit: Game Informer.

You could even do a few different variations based on what hedgehog you’re revolving the design around – the Zenith ‘Knuckles’ and ‘Tails’ could even be different models outside the Chronomaster (Defy for Knuckles, Pilot for Tails).

Swatch: For The Love of Hype

In this new watch world, however, a new element has entered into the fray: hype. People love to get excited about the next big thing, and capitalising on building and maintaining hype for a new release has very quickly become one of the most important contributing factors to any watch brand’s success. Building hype is arguably the best way to promote a collaboration timepiece, but to utilise it is to play with fire: Do it right, and a timepiece might sell out the minute it’s on the market. Do it wrong, and people will abandon the bandwagon as fast as they get on.

The new Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Snoopy!

No one understands the former more than Swatch. Ever the masters of collaborative watches, they have perfected the art of building hype and promoting accessibility through their collaborations. Recently, they have begun to collaborate within their own Swatch Group, having released models such as the MoonSwatch and the Scuba Fifty Fathoms to meteoric levels of acclaim. Most timepieces and brands within the Swatch Group are not particularly accessible to younger and less economically inclined people – myself included – so the prospect of owning an ‘Omega Speedmaster’ in a crazy colour at a fraction of the price is something that will reach a wide audience. So imagine the buzz that could come out of a collaboration between Swatch and McDonald’s.

Both McDonald’s and Swatch are not strangers to highly unusual collaborations.

Believe it or not, it’s not as far-fetched as it sounds! The Golden Arches’ involvement in the collab game is as storied as Swatch’s, having collaborated with a plethora of popular entities – Think Travis Scott, Kerwin Frost and even Crocs. It would be a walk in the park for a company as audacious as Swatch to create playful and vibrant designs that capture the essence of both brands, perhaps evoking nostalgia through the use of iconic logos or characters like Grimace, the Hamburglar, or my personal favourite Mac Tonight (see the video clip below!). Synergising Swatch’s and McDonald’s business acumen and global appeal could yield a timepiece that doesn’t just tell time for cheap but could also generate a massive level of appreciation and hype beyond the watch world itself.

Final Thoughts

So, in the ever-evolving landscape of watch collaborations, what makes a good collaboration idea great? Collaborations in the watch world have to go beyond contract signing and logo blending and should access the untapped potential for innovative, purposeful and exciting collaborations in the industry. As exemplified by Oris, Zenith, and Swatch, the keys to a successful collaboration lie in the sharing of core values, the diversification of audiences, and mastering the art of building a universal appeal. However, the path to creating a special collaboration timepiece is not linear, and I highly encourage all watch companies to engage with communities outside of ours. After all, while watchmaking is always special, it’s the people who keep it going. Reaching beyond the traditional boundaries of the industry allows for the infusion of fresh perspectives, creativity, and a broader appreciation for the art of horology.

OPINION: Has Our Perception Of Watch Values Changed?

Matt Clymo — Tue, 26 Mar 2024 06:40:47 +0000

Expensive, overpriced or fair value? We explore how our value perception of watches has changed over the past few years and ask the question – do we have a realistic expectation of watch values & pricing these days?

Time and time again, we hear people talking about how expensive watches are these days to a few years ago. For the sake of the argument, let’s say over the past 5 years as COVID had a major effect on prices, as it did with everything in the world. However, many, if not most watch brands have had price rises much greater than the inflation rate, sometimes 2 or 3 times or more. And each year when this happens, we inevitably see a flood of comments online and in person about the prices and how they are not justified. In some cases, these comments are in reference to a specific piece being singled out, which to us here at Watch Advice got us thinking…Is this really fair and has our perception of value in this world of watches been skewed by certain factors? What makes one watch worth the retail price and another, seemingly comparable on paper, not worth it?

This thought was sparked by the new Speedmaster White Dial released at the start of the month when people on seeing the price were suddenly saying things like “Wow, that’s a lot for a Speedy”, and “are they this much now? Expensive!” Even though it was A$200 more than the standard sapphire sandwich Speedmaster, which in our minds is justified due to the white lacquer dial and applied indices, which created a dial aesthetic that lifted the piece compared to the OG. However, people still commented on the price point and the fact that a Speedmaster Moonwatch with sapphire crystal is north of A$13k. This got us thinking, how does a person justify value and if a piece is worth the price or not?

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg)

I don’t want to single out Omega, as this seems to happen with many other great brands with a rich heritage, and personally, I feel Omega punches above its price point. The Seamaster Diver on steel bracelet is 60% of the retail price of a Rolex Submariner Date. This means that the Sub Date is 67% MORE expensive than the Seamaster Diver which competes with it directly. Hand on heart, I can honestly say that the Seamaster is closer in terms of quality, accuracy, durability, and overall specs with the Sub Date than its price at 60% of the Rolex suggests. Whichever way you look at it, the Omega is either priced right, and the Rolex is overpriced, or if the Submariner Date is fairly priced, then the Seamaster Diver is comparatively cheap. Or maybe it’s a bit on both sides…

The Rolex Submariner Date, worth. 67% premium over the Omega Seamaster Diver, even more so on the secondary market?

Now before you say, “Yes, but look at the brand and Rolex is worth more on the secondary market” then you would be correct. Rolex is worth more on the secondary market due to a range of factors that aren’t just plain supply and demand economics. Brand caché is worth something. It’s why brands invest a lot in their branding, how they position their pieces, and which celebrities and ambassadors they align themselves with among other things. This is a sentiment that somehow has permeated the watch world in recent years.

I’m not hating on Rolex either – I have a couple in the collection primarily as I love their look and what the brand originally stood for when Hans Wilsdorf created Rolex. This and they are quality and rock solid and I know I can go anywhere with them and not worry about wrecking them. They’re not safe queens at all, just check out my Instagram with the pics I take of them and my other pieces!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Matt Clymo (@digital_escapement)

The point that I’m trying to make is this – when (Insert mainstream brand here) has had price rises equating to 20% over the last 3 years, people complain that this is a lot and they’re not worth it. When Rolex does this, not a peep. Audemars Piguet has gone even further by raising the price of selected pieces more than this in one go overnight. Again, crickets on this. Yes 20% is more than inflation, and sometimes these rises are hard to justify, other times models have had upgrades in the movement or other elements that cost more than just what the material it’s made from. Research, development, manufacturing process, watchmaker upskilling etc all go into this. However, if the piece is the same as the day prior to the rise, and has been for the past few years, then this for many (rightfully so) is a hard pill to swallow.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is one brand that’s copped a lot of flack lately over price rises, but the Polaris Chronograph was one of the best chronograph releases last year. Priced the same as the Daytona, but you can actually walk in and buy it, and with better finishing and heritage.

So this brings me back to the original question. What constitutes value in a watch? And why are we so surprised when a luxury brand (remember, these are all expensive items that are a LUXURY that we don’t actually need) puts their prices up? If the demand is still there and can support this, good for them. If anyone in business is able to sell their products for more without affecting the demand it makes sense. And unfortunately just like the saying goes, “If you have to ask, you can’t afford it!” Ok, that was harsh, but my point stands. Luxury isn’t for everyone, nor should it be, otherwise it wouldn’t really be luxury. Let’s face it, we’re not obsessing over mass-made sub-$500 pieces, are we? Well, most people aren’t.

As far as I can tell, this all comes back to the secondary market. I’m generalising somewhat here, but if a watch is worth 40%-50% less second-hand, then people find it hard to justify price rises. If it’s worth 50%-100% more on the secondary market, then people seem to care a lot less, even if they’re not planning to sell the piece. It’s a bit of a black-and-white statement, but it seems to be accurate. A Daytona that was A$16,450 back in 2019 and now retails for A$24,250 – an increase of 47%, doesn’t seem to worry people. Why? Perhaps it has something to do with the fact you can then sell it for about double the retail should you want to.

The Rolex Daytona has risen over 47% since 2019 with no shortage of slowing down!

Read Our Hands-On Review of the Rolex Daytona 116500 Here

But in our view, a purchase shouldn’t be made based on this as markets can change and change rapidly. (Remember when Daytona’s used to be discounted?) Plus, the value of a watch should not be intrinsically tied to its secondary value. If this were the case, then basically 99% of watches out there are not worth their retail price, which in turn means they’re not value for the money, plain and simple. Do I believe this? No. Is this what others believe? It seems that many people do, and there’s nothing wrong with that, BUT, those people most probably need to re-evaluate their choices in watches and accept that prices rise, luxury is luxury and if you can’t afford it, then see what else is out there. I include myself in this as well. Oh, and let’s not forget that a secondhand piece needs to be new first, so someone has to buy it at the retail (discounted or not) price.

I’ve had to think twice as hard about buying certain pieces due to their costs and had to accept that others are now not in my current buying range as they’ve crossed that line, whatever that line is or was at the time. Just like certain cars, houses in certain locations, and other things in life, there are certain watches I can’t afford now, and those I won’t be able to ever. I’d love an Aston Martin, but it’s not in my current financial means right now. But neither is a house in Vaucluse, Toorak, or on the river in Hawthorn. The same goes for watches.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo 39mm Openwork – one piece way out of reach for me

Watches as a hobby is one that we all love, and in a perfect world, would love to have lots of pieces in the collection to choose from. The new JLC is out? Great, I’ll get it! The IWC Big Pilot in green? Yes, please! But the reality for most of us, we need to be a little more discerning these days, and what we may have been able to buy 5 years ago may not be the case now. But conversely, we shouldn’t look at the secondary market price to dictate whether or not a watch is worth the retail. We should evaluate the piece on its merits and most importantly, do we love it?

I wrote some time ago that one of my guiding rules for buying a new watch was asking myself this question: “If it was the only watch I had, and had to wear it every day, would I love wearing it each day?” Maybe next time you’re after a new piece, ask yourself that, and it may re-frame your way of thinking. If the answer is yes, and you can afford it, then go for it. If the answer is no, or you have a certain budget, then maybe a secondary piece is the way to go – nothing wrong with that at all. But most of all, we should enjoy watches for what they are, and what they represent, and not an investment or asset. Trust me, it’s more fun that way!

Do you think I’m crazy? Agree or disagree? Leave us a comment below!

OPINION: Is Hublot The Most Misunderstood Brand In The Industry?

Matt Clymo — Thu, 21 Mar 2024 04:20:25 +0000

There’s no brand more polarising than Hublot, and we take a look into the reasons why, and look to tackle these misconceptions head on!

Let’s face it. Hublot is a love-or-hate brand. It seems that there is no shortage of people who are not the brand’s biggest fans, but on the flip side, there is plenty of love for Hublot going around. And why wouldn’t there be? Honestly, they make some amazing watches, and when you start to deep dive into the brand today, the Hublot of 2024, there’s a lot more to them than meets the eye. Now even as I write this, there will be some people who are reading this rolling their eyes. But stay with me, dear reader as I delve into just why we think Hublot is the most misunderstood brand and try to dispel some of these misconceptions.

Now, before we get into it, a point to note. These misconceptions are a collation of us scouring the web, socials, blogs, comment sections, passing conversations we have with watch enthusiasts, and even some “watch journalists’ and commentators. And reading and hearing much of this we have to laugh, as much is incorrect and coming from not being informed and people parroting what they hear others say. Ah, social media echo chambers are the best aren’t they? Whilst we don’t pertain to be Hublot experts, (we’ll hopefully be talking with some of these throughout this year) it’s what we know about the brand, speaking to people from the brand and looking into its history and even what Hublot is doing as a brand today. So, let’s get going…

Hublot Is Too Big, Bold & Polarising vs Other Brands

We thought we’d start with an easy one, or at least, a very common overarching theme. And to be honest, this isn’t really a misconception, but rather a negative moniker Hublot shouldn’t have. Yes, they are bold, and yes they are polarising (potentially because of their size and boldness), but is this such a bad thing? The wonderful thing about loving watches like we do is that you quickly learn that there are watches for everyone out there and all styles and tastes. Some brands choose to be conservative and classic, which is something I personally like as their pieces never go out of style. Other brands, like Hublot like to go against the trend and rather than following, set them themselves.

The Hublot Big Bang Unico SAXEM Green 42mm

You could liken this to the fashion world. Classic brands with classic looks, and others that are more Avante Guarde. Dior is a household name today because of their out-there designs and Haute Couture in the 40’s and 50’s, and if it wasn’t for Christian Dior’s imagination, Dior as a brand may be less Dior and more of a retail department store brand today. Hublot is bold, and as a result polarising, but as they say in Brand Strategy 101, you need to have haters to have lovers of your brand, and if you try and target everyone, you target no one. Polarising is actually good for brand growth!

As for the issue of size, Hublot went through the large watch phase, as did many brands like AP, Breitling, TAG Heuer, and Panerai, to name a few. However, gone are the days of giant Hublot watches. The Big Bang Unico now comes in 42mm, and their Classic Fusion in a range of sizes to suit from 45mm down to 33mm. In fact, 45mm pieces are becoming less and less across all collections, which shows Hublot is taking note and following the market’s wants. A prime example is the Unico Full Magic Gold on my 17.5cm wrist, (pictured below) and it fits very well. My Rolex Sea-Dweller is larger and thicker – which no one seems to complain about!

A 42mm watch on my 17.5cm wrist. No lug overhang, and sits squarely and wears very comfortably!

Hublot Is Too Artsy, & Not For The Average Person

This theme is kind of an extension of the above. When Hublot launched the collaboration with Takashi Murakami, the internet went into meltdown (ok, maybe not the whole net, just the watch blogs and social media sites etc) with people being polarised by the watches. Even when Hublot launched their latest collaboration with the Japanese artist, the MP-15 Floral Sapphire Central Tourbillon, we saw so many people out there saying how ugly it was and why anyone would wear a flower on their wrist!

The Takashi Murakami MP-15 Floral Sapphire – not for everyone, but nor should it be!

But here’s the thing, and this takes me back to one of my previous points. There’s a watch out there for everyone. And I’ll say this. Most of the people having negative comments about the MP-15 have never seen it in person, will never have the $475,000 to own it, and also have no idea about the engineering and craftsmanship that goes into designing a watch shaped like a flower (Takashi Murakami’s signature design by the way, so this makes complete sense). Sapphire isn’t the easiest to work with, especially when talking about a flower-shaped case and the complexity of achieving the clarity and light-reflecting properties that piece has adds another layer of difficulty to it. And let’s remind ourselves that a lot of brands do sapphire cases; still, only Hublot dares to push boundaries to bring us a creation such as this!

Flower shaped sapphire is not easy to create and is a marvel in its own right.

On top of this, fitting a central tourbillon mechanism within this intricate sapphire case is a feat in itself that deserves recognition. Oh, and with only 50 pieces available, they’re almost all spoken for, with only a few remaining pieces left in the world. Having seen and handled this piece, I can say that it is an amazing piece of art, craftsmanship, and watchmaking.

The caseback of the limited edition Takashi Murakami floral sapphire

Would I wear it? It’s not really my style or conducive to my lifestyle (or bank account for that matter), but there are hundreds of watches that I wouldn’t wear as it’s not what I like personally. But I know people who would and could wear it should they choose to. Being a watch lover and journalist, I can appreciate it for what it is as I know the effort, skill, and R&D it takes to create it. Again, it’s wearable art, and art is subjective – not every piece is for everyone, especially a piece that is the better part of A$500,000!

Hublot Has Too Many Limited Editions

It seems these days, many brands are doing limited editions and limited yearly production runs. We actually tackled this topic somewhat in our opinion piece, What Makes A Good Limited Edition Watch? Hublot is not unique to this. Panerai has been doing limited editions and runs for decades, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer, Breitling, many micro brands and independents do limited edition pieces. Just look at every brand that jumped on board the limited edition Year Of The Dragon bandwagon this year. Pretty much all! So when you look at a brand like Hublot, yes it does limited editions, however, it’s really only for very high-end pieces, special collaborations, or celebratory pieces (like most brands do).

A fusion of style, boldness and Arabica! (ChampsG with the Big Bang Unico Nespresso and Hublot CEO, Ricardo Guadalupe with the blue Big Bang Unico)

As an example, the collaboration Hublot did with Nespresso was a genius idea. Not only did it get people talking about a watch that was all green (in person, it looks very good, just saying!) but it combined two worlds together – coffee and watches, and made each aware of the other. Add to this, the piece used manufacturing techniques that were good for the environment: Utilising used ground-up coffee in the strap and recycled Nespresso Pods to make the watch itself. Here is an interesting take on these limited editions that one may not have thought of. As a brand, limited editions are about expanding the reach of the brand and, in turn, increasing brand presence.

For example, if we take the Nespresso collaboration, Nespresso has a US$5.6 billion Net Worth and a US$7 billion revenue, strategy, and business model. Tapping into this market is a genius move for Hublot and a massive win for the brand, as it opens Hublot up to this market and people who may not have previously been exposed to the brand. Not only this, but the manufacturing process of this piece also uses environmentally sustainable manufacturing practices by incorporating recycled coffee grounds into the strap. The case, bezel, crown, and pushers are made of recycled aluminium Nespresso pods, so it’s a win-win for both brands.

Oh, and speaking to the brand, it works! People love rarity, and limited editions still entice people to buy those pieces. It’s human nature – we want what we can’t have, and want to feel special by having something others don’t!

Hublot Has A Lack Of Heritage & Expertise

We’ve heard this one pop up every now and then. The watch industry and brands within it have, for the most part, built its reputation off history, heritage, and expertise. How often do you see a brand talk about its heritage in watchmaking, the founders who started up the brand 200 years ago, and how it evolved? In fact, many brands now have Heritage (or insert synonym) Directors who help to design new pieces by looking into the past, pulling designs from their back calatogues and giving them new life as either re-editions, re-interpretations or homages to those vintage pieces. It’s part of the brand’s story, and important from a marketing perspective. I love a good brand story and have fallen in love with certain brands because of this, and something I appreciate very much.

The Classic Fusion Original is not inspired by a vintage watch from the ’50s, but by Hublot’s historical roots back to the early ’80s, now almost vintage!

Hublot, on the other hand, is just over 40 years old, meaning it doesn’t have a heritage dating back to 1775, nor did its founder train under Abraham-Louis Breguet. As a result, people naturally equate this with a lack of expertise. But, how many watchmakers, (and I’m talking about the actual people designing the movements and putting them together), out there today are 200+ years old? None. But there is a generation of watchmakers who are changing the industry and carving out their own path and who are very well trained and talented. Just look at the likes of Raúl Pagès who won the Louis Vuitton Prize for Independent Creatives, or Rexhep Rexhepi with Akrivia, or Max Büsser and MB&F. None of these brands have heritage so to speak, but all have massive amounts of expertise working for them.

Master Pieces from Hublot. The MP-10, MP-15 and MP-13 required massive amounts of expertise to design, develop and create!

Hublot is no different. They are 44 years young and, like the aforementioned names, are able to carve a path for themselves, just like John Arnold or Abraham-Louis Breguet did centuries ago, or more recently, Francios-Paul Journe, Roger Smith, Kari Voutilainen, and George Daniels to name a few. On top of this, Hublot couldn’t achieve some of the innovations they have like you see in their Master Pieces collection, or the use of material science for the creation of new polymers and materials, or the crazy things they do with movement innovation without this level of expertise. In fact, this is a nice segue to the next misconception…

There Is No Innovation In Hublot

As crazy as it sounds, people still believe Hublot is not an innovative brand. Really? Hublot is a brand that has many firsts within the watch industry. Some are innovative in thought, like combining rubber and precious metal watches together, which on the surface doesn’t sound innovative, but the fact that no other brand dared to do this until Carlo Crocco did with the Classic Original is innovation.

The Classic Fusion Original Collection – and ode to the innovation of rubber and gold!

Others are the very definition of innovative like their collaborative designs with artists such as Takashi Murakami or Richard Orlinski, or their movements found in pieces like the MP-10 released this year. In fact, the MP-10 was delayed five years (hence the naming convention being out of sync with the next most recent MP-15) due to it being so complex, and the fact that Hublot wanted to get it perfectly right.

The MP-10 was 5 years overdue thanks to the complexity of this piece. Click the pics to see them in detail

Or let’s not forget about their material science for case designs, such as SAXEM. Tell me another brand that is experimenting with space-aged materials to create a see-through sapphire composite using rare earth elements like thulium and holmium, as well as chromium to create a perfectly translucent case with consistent clarity from every angle?

The Hublot Big Bang Unico SAXEM Green 42mm

And let’s not even mention Magic Gold. A scratch-proof gold alloy that no other watch brand uses, and trust me, I’ve seen an example of an over 10-year-old, worn almost every day, well-travelled predecessor of Magic Gold, and it is pristine. Not a single mark on it and like new. Show me another precious metal watch that has these properties.

Scratch proof Magic Gold!

Hublot Is Expensive & Uses ETA Movements

Now this is an interesting topic that pops up time and time again. “Hublot is expensive” is a pretty vague comment and this is why. Expensive as a term is subjective. $1,000 for a watch can be expensive for one person, and cheap for another. In the higher-end luxury watch world, expensive can be into six figures or even seven figures. Is $36k expensive for an inhouse fly-back chronograph movement with an openworked dial and case and bracelet made of full blue ceramic with a 72hr power reserve? I’ll let you be the judge, but if the name of the said piece was Audemar’s Piguet, you would say “I’ll take 3!” But I’ve just described the Hublot Big Bang Unico Integrated Blue Indigo Ceramic, whose ceramic and finishing of the case can go toe to toe with Audemars Piguet any day of the week. And this leads me to the second part of this misconception.

Big Bang Unico Integrated Blue Indigo Ceramic

People still talk about Hublot using ETA movements in all their watches. Now, this is partly true as some of their more entry-level pieces do use ETA-based movements. But this is also true of almost every mass luxury watch brand out there, and some of these charge much more for a similar or the same movement base. In addition, these particular pieces are not priced through the roof either.

The Classic Fusion Orlinski in Sky Blue Ceramic is innovative, artistic and in-house with a manual wind, skeletonised tourbillon movement!

However, the HUB1280 Unico movement is an in-house movement developed for Hublot by LVMH and used exclusively in the Big Bang Unico pieces. In my opinion (and I’ve tried, worn, and tested many, many chronographs), the Unico flyback chrono movement is one of the best on the market in terms of functionality and ease of use. Go try it out if you’re not sold. The same goes for the HUB6021 Manufacture Manual-winding Power Reserve Skeleton Tourbillon Movement found in the Classic Fusion Orlinski. Not quite ETA!

The 105-power reserve, manual-winding HUB6021 In-House calibre. Does this movement look like a standard ETA movement to you?

Hublot Is Better Bought Second Hand

Yes, as are most products in life. Watches are no different – they depreciate in value from retail the moment you walk out of the store. Buy a new car, and it depreciates. Handbags, jewellery, shoes. This is just economics for 99% of things out there. Yes, some watches appreciate in value instantly or over time, depending on the model and brand, but for most, they don’t. This means that if you subscribe to this theory, then all watches are better off bought second-hand. But here is the unfortunate truth.

If a product is not bought new, it can never be re-sold as pre-owned. It’s a stark reality that most people forget about, it’s economics. Personally, I have never bought a second-hand watch, and at this stage of my collecting journey, probably won’t in the foreseable future Why? Several reasons – I like the experience of buying new; Going into the boutique or retailer and talking to them, trying out pieces, and getting great service. It’s kind of nice! The other major reason; I know what I’m getting, and there’s very little risk. The watch has a full warranty, and if anything goes wrong, I can take it back, and someone will help me get it fixed.

The service at boutiques has always stood out, and one reason buying new is great. It’s not quite the same on the secondary market

On top of this, I like the fact that I’m the first owner, and it’s fresh out of the box. There’s no better feeling and with this, I can create memories with it from day one. You don’t get that with second-hand pieces anywhere near as much. But people will always want a bargain, and there will always be a secondary market, which is great and makes for a healthy industry. This, in turn, caters to both types of people. Those who want to get a piece cheaper on the secondary market and those who want the experience of buying new and happy to pay retail. Neither is right or wrong; it’s about personal preference.

Hublot Is Expensive To Service

This misnomer comes up now and again. People have taken their Hublot in for service and complained about the costs. Those people are well within their rights to do so, but again, we’re talking luxury watches here. Highly complex mechanical machines on our wrists that do need a service every now and then or they’ll run less than optimal. But again, I’ll make a point. Not many watch brands that are over a 5 figure price point are all that cheap to service. The more technical and advanced a movement is, the more it is to service it. Just like a car, a Hyundai is cheaper and has fixed prices, and a Porsche is not. Hublot has, however, a solution to this problem.

A Hublot technician servicing the MP-11 with 14 days of power reserve

Hublot now offers customers who purchase online or through their boutiques a complimentary service within the first seven years of ownership for any piece with an in-house movement or El Primero movement. This does take away the pain and expense of the service, and knowing that you don’t need to then pay for it for at least the next decade means that when you average it out, you’re probably paying the same, if not less, than other well-known luxury watch brands. Caveat: This all depends on the brand, service interval, and costs, but you get my drift. It’s a great example of a brand listening to feedback, and offering some additional value for its clients.

Hublot Has Misaligned Bezel Screws

Ok, this isn’t a misconception, as it’s true. It’s more of a pet peeve of people who believe that the screws on the bezels of Hublot’s need to be aligned to the centre circularly so they follow the lines of the bezel and dial, just like they are on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Now, we can’t do much about anyone’s OCD tendencies, but we can explain it so people understand why they are the way they are.

The Royal Oak Ceramic vs the Big Bang Integrated Black Magic – look at the screws on the bezel of each…

For those that are not aware, AP uses a bolt and screw combination to secure the bezel and case and caseback. The bolts are inserted from the front, which are placed into the hexagonal-shaped holes so the “screw top” perfectly aligns, and then the screw is inserted and screwed into the hollowed bolt from the back. Hublot, on the other hand, uses actual screws that are screwed in from the font to secure the bezel to the case. A different approach to the design and build of the watch. Neither is right or wrong, just different. It all comes down to how particular you are with this type of thing. Personally, I don’t find it an issue, but then others do.

The Average Hublot Wearer Isn’t Who You Think!

Last but not least, there is now a misconception of who the average Hublot owner and wearer is. In the past, it was common to associate Hublot with, how should we say it, less than reputable people, which may have been the case 10+ years ago. However, as times have changed, so have Hublot, their watches, and the people who now typically wear them. Just look at their ambassador roster and partnerships these days – a veritable who’s who of sport across Football (Soccer), golf, tennis, and athletics, contemporary international artists and musicians such as Depeche Mode, and even world-renowned chefs have jumped on board, like 3 Michelin Star Chef, Clare Smyth, the only woman to hold 3 Michelin stars in the UK not to mention her 3 Chef Hat restaurant, Oncore at Sydney’s Crown.

Clare Smyth – Taking the art of fusion (both gastronomically and horologically) seriously!

I realise these are ambassadors for the brand, but the point here is this: By Hubot aligning with these people who are at the top of their chosen fields, and many of them in the arts, showcases that Hublot is squarely targeting the modern and discerning consumer who wants to stand out from the crowd. Talking to Hublot, not to mention having spent considerable time in their boutiques, we can safely say that the average customer is now a lot more in line with their ambassadors (that’s the goal right!) than previous notions of underworld figures and people without taste.

Concert Pianist and virtuoso, Lang Lang with his Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon

How Watch Advice Sees Hublot Today

Many brands in the watch world are currently at a turning point in their history, changing with the times. They also take a look at what made them who they are today and how they can tap into this history and blend it with modernity. Hublot is in the same boat as well – shaking off the stigmas of the last decade or so and tapping into its original DNA to bring the modern consumer a fun and innovative alternative who is not afraid to be different compared to the old guard of Swiss watchmaking.

Hublot to us is an exciting brand based on what it stands for, the pieces it makes, and how it approaches its watchmaking. They’ve never been a conventional watch brand – from the very beginnings when they fused rubber with precious metals, something that is now common in the industry, to the out-there Master Pieces that showcase Hublot’s expertise in engineering and craftsmanship, not to mention the innovation that goes into these.

Personally, I’m excited to learn a lot more about the brand this year, how they make their pieces, and also talking to not only some of the great people who make the pieces but Ricardo himself on how he sees the brand today and where it is heading into the future. On the surface, Hublot is a brand that gets overlooked and a bit of bad press. Peak under the hood of the brand and it’s watches and there’s a lot more to it. As the saying goes, you can’t always judge a book by its cover!

OPINION: What Makes a Good limited-edition Watch?

Mario C — Fri, 19 Jan 2024 07:34:50 +0000

Limited Edition is one term that gets thrown around a lot in the watch world, but what is limited really? What makes a watch exclusive and desirable?

In the world of haute horlogerie, the idea of exclusivity is one entertained by many and humoured by few. After all, if you’re going to be forking over exorbitant amounts of money to express your status or personality, would it not be best to have a timepiece that stands out from the rest?

This is just one reason why some collectors go after limited-edition watches. A distinctive watch produced in restricted quantities is bound to further the ultimate goal: A perfect collection, one that symbolises both the collector’s personality, preferences, and attitudes to horology.

The limited edition Breitling SuperOcean Heritage II ‘Ocean Conservancy’ – 1000 pieces produced

Not all limited-editions are made the same, so of course, not all limited-editions are equally lucrative. So what makes a limited-edition so attractive to the average customer, and what timepieces out there mark the standard of what it means to be a ‘piece unique?’ Let’s find out.

The Power of Branding: Limited-edition vs Limited Production

Before we get started, though, I thought I’d throw in a quick disclaimer concerning how I’m going to be assessing these timepieces: Though there are plenty of factors that can make a limited-edition watch appealing, it is important to understand that the power of a brand name, reputation and marketing strategies almost always reigns supreme.

There are many watch brands out there that create ‘limited production’ runs of certain collections that become insanely popular due to how scarce they are/how scarce they are perceived.

Take Rolex, for example. They don’t make limited-edition watches per se but instead limit their production and distribution, thus boosting overall demand. In my opinion, this isn’t what a true limited-edition watch is, and the idea of marketing artificial exclusivity isn’t something I’m attracted to.

Rolex – limited run? Fake scarcity? Or just over-demand and under-supply?

To me, a ‘true’ limited-edition is in the literal sense: One of fifty, or one of two hundred or two thousand, where after the last watch is sold the piece is never made again. This is the hallmark of exclusivity, and thus the timepieces that I mention in this article are all examples of such. This is also why I won’t be looking too much at resale value; On the secondary market, how much any watch is worth is equal to what it’s worth to someone else, and the market is adapting and changing almost everyday. It would be impossible to justify buying a limited-edition watch for the resale value alone (though it helps), as what could be extremely popular one minute could be considered basic in the next.

Unique Designs & Materials

As previously mentioned, if you’re a part of the limited-edition collector’s community it’s likely that you want to own a distinctive timepiece. The easiest way to do this would be to get a watch with a singular approach to either its overall design or creative process. For a watch brand, creating a timepiece with either a unique design or materials is a surefire way to draw eyes, ears, and eventually wallets towards limited-edition pieces.

I’m not just talking about changing the colour, painting the case back, and then calling it a day. To make an excellent limited-edition timepiece, the changes to the watch must be transformative enough for it to stand out amongst its peers by brand or collection.

The limited production 50th Anniversary Omega ‘Snoopy’ Speedmaster

Of course, it’s hard to view a subjective topic such as transformational change objectively, but elements such as dial design, finishing, engravings and the innovative use of materials must all be considered in the creation of a limited-edition.

One example of a limited-edition done right contextually is the Hublot x Nespresso collaboration. Hublot is no stranger to using new and unusual materials to create some of their standout timepieces, and the Nespresso collab is no exception, employing disruptive design elements to create a truly special rendition of the Big Bang Unico. This 1/200 timepiece expresses itself through the use of Nespresso coffee capsules, which have been recycled to create the watch; The leftover coffee grounds were used to make the rubber and nylon straps, whilst the capsules themselves have been transformed into the lime-green aluminium case housing the movement.

The Hublot Nespresso on Champs’s wrist with CEO Ricardo Guadeloupe’s Unico on his

Another brand that exemplifies itself in this field is Grand Seiko, albeit done to more conservative tastes. The 1/50 SBGZ009 takes elements previously seen on the SLGH005 “White Birch” and dials them up to 11. Whilst the immaculate dial design remains, Grand Seiko instead opts for a manual-wind, time-only movement encased in mirror-polished platinum, a metal as decadent as it is dense. If that wasn’t enough, the case is then further painstakingly hand-engraved at their Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri to extend the texture of the dial. The engraving process has been undertaken on just three Grand Seiko models to the time of writing, ensuring that, despite their understated nature, they remain highly iconic and recognisable. Do yourself a favour and watch the video of it below!

New & Innovative Features

If you are one of the collectors who believe looks aren’t exactly everything, then perhaps what attracts you to a limited-edition is the propensity for a brand to flex its technical excellence. Thankfully, the debut of new and innovative features in a limited-edition timepiece is yet another way to be drawn to these special watches.

Some can argue that room for innovation in this industry is few and far between, given the Quartz Crisis and the rise of wearable tech. However, I firmly believe that the range of innovations available to watchmakers of the modern day is only limited by their imagination. If you look closely, never-before-seen complications, new in-house movements and feats of ruthless mechanical engineering can still be found in the horological sphere. As a result, these all reinforce the air of exclusivity around a new timepiece.

One company that has risen biblically on this reputation over the last couple of years is MB&F, where the joyfully twisted mind of Max Büsser and his friends wake up every morning to create a brand new mechanical masterpiece. The venerable ‘Willy Wonka’ of watchmaking exemplified this through the creation of the HM11 ‘Architect’ in 2023. The main concept behind this watch was not to be a traditional time-telling piece, but to simulate the golden era of 60s neo-futuristic architecture by asking one ridiculous question: “What if that house is a watch?” A centrally mounted tourbillon, rotating tri-faced case including power reserve and thermometer dials, assembled inside a Jetsons-esque case would be the resounding answer.

The MB&F HM11 Architect from Dubai Watch Week 2023

One of Max’s friends, Edouard Meylan, is also highly praised for having a similar reputation with his own company, H. Moser & Cie. Ever the trolls of the horological world, H. Moser has established itself as the most non-serious, yet hardcore Swiss watchmaker around. The easiest example of this is the 1/50 Swiss Alp Final Upgrade, which was built from the ground up, ‘coincidentally’ resembling a certain smartwatch first released in 2015. However, perhaps you are looking for something more familiar and iconic. H. Moser has you covered there, too, with the Swiss Icons, a timepiece packed with so many ‘innovative’ features that it received several cease-and-desist orders and had to be destroyed before it could even hit store shelves. Can you spot them all?

The H Moser & Cie 1/50 Swiss Alp Final Upgrade

Even traditionalist watchmakers Cartier had gotten into the fun as of late – look no further than their 2022 release, the Masse Mystérieuse, which houses a movement that is not only visible from both sides, but also acts as the rotor for the watch to be wound; A feat not many people thought possible, but was executed masterfully by the watchmakers of Cartier and parent company Richemont.

Cartier’s Masse Mystérieuse showcased at Watches & Wonders 2022

Return of a Classic

Let’s say that you are neither of these kinds of collectors. New materials and unique designs? Yawn. Mechanics and technical specs? Don’t really care for it. However, you love a good story. As a collector, you are enamoured with the narrative-rich heritage and values behind the brands that interest you. You’re deeply invested in the stories behind certain models, or perhaps you’re simply obsessed with the idea of capturing an iconic moment in history on your wrist!

In that case, the dominant factor that results in you pursuing a limited-edition timepiece is when a watch brand dives back into its heritage, resulting in an inspired timepiece brimming with nostalgia and thematic storytelling.

One of the most distinct companies engaged in this practice is none other than Omega. Those who know of Omega as a brand most likely know their two proudest (and most advertised) associations with the 1969 Moon Landing and their ongoing appearances in the James Bond film series. Whilst there is much to say concerning their leveraging of the former, Omega also delights in exploring limited-editions concerning the latter.

The Omega Seamaster Ref. 212.30.41.20.01.005 was a 1/11,007 limited-edition sold in 2012 to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the suave British spy. This commemorative piece is emblazoned with the signature ‘007’ graphic across the entirety of the dial, with the 50-minute marker on the bezel also coloured red to celebrate the special occasion.

The Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Edition

Another company has also recently reveled in anniversary celebrations, only this time it’s less of a matter of pop culture and more of a commemoration of the collection itself. In 2023, the 60th birthday of the TAG Heuer Carrera, the Swiss brand held nothing back. The 1/600 TAG Heuer Carrera “Panda” paid homage to the highly regarded 2447 SN model whilst integrating the Heuer02, their latest in-house movement at the time. It’s changes like these that appeal to me the most personally, where iconic, heritage-inspired design meets modern technology, and thus serves its purpose as a lucrative limited-edition piece.

The 60th Anniversary TAG Heuer Carrera

Interestingly, this hardly covers all of the other limited-edition watches out there that adhere to some of these conventional ‘rules,’ so to speak. However, the principle still stays the same: if you, as a collector, can find a limited-edition piece that speaks to you on any of these three levels (or perhaps, all of them), then it is truly something worth pursuing.

Feel free to leave me a comment if you agree or disagree with me…

Is Breguet One Of The Most Under-Rated Watch Brands Out There?

Matt Clymo — Sat, 09 Dec 2023 11:18:45 +0000

Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of the fathers of modern watchmaking. Yet Breguet as a legacy brand seems to be languishing a little. Which leads us to ask the question, why?

When you think of watch brands, many come to mind, from the hype watch brands we know and covet today, to the mainstream luxury brands that are readily available to high horology that many of us will potentially never own. I won’t put names in your head, but I think you know several from each of those categories. But, where in this list does Breguet fall? For many, it probably doesn’t come to mind instantly, or even in the top 5. I know for me, it normally doesn’t which is a shame as it’s one of the oldest brands around. But this got me thinking – why is this?

A couple of months ago, Breguet invited us to Sydney to view some of their pieces, some newly released this year and some that have been in their catalog for a little while. Breguet is not a brand we’ve done a lot with, so needless to say we jumped on a plane and flew to Sydney to meet the heads of the brand here in Australia and to get hands-on with some great pieces in their lineup. And you forget, they have some very nice pieces!

My artistic shot of the Tradition 7097 in white gold and retrograde seconds

It was this trip and getting up close and personal with the brand that sparked this idea in my mind. Why isn’t Breguet seen in a higher light in the wider watch world? They have some amazing pieces for both men and women ranging from sports to dress pieces. They have some of the highest levels of finishing out there, which Champs can attest to when he visited their Manufacture earlier in the year (which you can see here on his insta page) ahead of their global Type 20 and Type XX release in Paris, and they make some crazy pieces both looks-wise and complication-wise. Their Tradition and Classique collections are some of the best in their catalogue and within these, some pieces like the Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 blue are some of the most unique and dare I say, amazing watches out there.

The Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde with blue guilloche dial and retrograde date arc.

When you explore a piece like the 7597, you start to understand just the level of detail that goes into these pieces. Whilst they may not be for everyone, and yes, the price points on these are not the standard given many of these are high 5-figures edging into the 6-figure price point, you can’t deny they’re not a great brand. From the dial layout, guilloche gold dial that’s hand turned, anthracite plates and bridges, and semi-exposed movement with the retrograde date arc, you’re looking at a very fine piece of watchmaking, and one hell of a watch should you have the means to afford the $64,200 AUD asking price.

The caseback of the Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597

However, the demand for these pieces is not what you see with the likes of Rolex, or AP. Their secondary market values are nowhere near their retail, which is great for potential buyers out there who want to get an incredible bargain and a watch with meticulous finishing and history to boot. But it showcases that the brand is maybe not where it should be when it comes to collectors and the wider market alike. My very strong hunch is that staunch collectors and those who know appreciate Breguet, but outside this, the “street cred” isn’t there.

The back of the Classique Quantieme Perpetual is one reason these should have a lot more demand!

But it should be. Breguet is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, dating back to 1775 when Abraham-Louis Breguet first set up his workshop in Paris, and soon caught the eye of the French aristocracy, including then Queen, Marie Antoinette. Having masted the automatic winding mechanism, The Perpétuelle, which none of his counterparts had at the time, Breguet made a name for himself, and even today, parts are named after his inventions, like the Breguet Overcoil spring, Breguet styled hands and the anti-shock mechanism, the pare-chute. All of these are still present today in Breguet watches and many other brands on the market.

The Tradition 7097 with off-centred dial in silvered gold, engine-turned by hand and the pare-chute devices on the left and right and the Bregeut Coilover hairspring at 4 o’clock

Whilst it’s true that Breguet is not the brand that was started back in 1775. The Breguet family sold it over 150 years ago and since then, has undergone many changes, including multiple owners which has not helped. Now owned by the Swatch group, the brand is looking back to its roots like many others for inspiration and guidance to help propel it along over the next 100 years. This being said, nostalgia has a place in the watch world and sometimes what is old is new again, and hopefully, this will be for Breguet.

The rose gold Classique Quantieme Perpetual is one piece you should try on at least once!

The launch of the Type XX and Type 20 this year showcases that the brand is committed to looking back at its aviation association with the French Airforce, which you can read our coverage and history of starting here. These are very nice pieces that are a little different, you won’t see on too many people’s wrists, and come with some great history as well. What’s not to like?

The Breguet Type XX and Type 20 Champs shot earlier this year in Paris at the global launch

For the females out there, they’ve some unique and beautiful dress pieces as well. The Reine de Naples collection are not your standard ladies’ watches. Oval-shaped, off-centre dials, diamond set bezels, and hour markers and for those wanting to be a little more adventurous, some come with very artistic dials.

The Reine de Naples 8918 in rose gold and Bezel, dial flange and crown set with 118 diamonds

They are not your everyday pieces, but they are a standout in any collection. Yes you can get less expensive dress watches, but you won’t get the provenance, the craftmanship, precious metals and jewels that set these apart. Even the more traditional Classique ladies collection are beautiful and will set you apart!

The Breguet Classique 8068 in rose gold and set with 64 diamonds, Mother Of Pearl dial and hand engraved on a rose engine

The question I have in my mind is, how does Breguet get back to being the brand it once was? What should the Swatch Group be doing to help elevate its high horology maison to where it should be? The answer normally comes down to marketing and how the brand is being showcased in the market, not to mention who they’re targeting for their watches. When you have executives and well-off business people, influencers, and tech tycoons choosing to wear Rolex, AP or Patek (which are all justified) but not Breguet and you look at well-known people who are celebrities and influencers and what they’re wearing, you start to realise why.

The Tradition Quantieme Retrograde

It’s less about the watches and their heritage, and more about how brands stay relevant these days. Patek Philippe is steeped in heritage and craftsmanship. But you see people like Jay Z, Connor McGregor and Ed Sheeran wearing their pieces. Regardless if they’re been given these by the brand or are ambassadors, it creates an air of relevancy. Put a few Breguets on some celebrity wrists who are also watch nuts and I imagine the image will start to turn.

The Type XX and Type 20 could be a good option for some Breguet ambassador love

Now, I’m not advocating for Breguet to sell out at all, most definitely not. This is more of a gentle nudge to look at how can they get people to see their pieces the way they should be seen. Tradition and heritage in watchmaking is important, as is the brand’s story, but by the same token, brands, and any brand in any industry for that matter, need to stay relevant and contemporary. We now live in a TikTok world after all!

The Breguet Classique Calendrier 7337 in 18-carat gold with gold dial hand engraved on a rose engine

Coming back to the title of this article, is Breguet one of the most underrated watch brands out there? We here at Watch Advice think so. Yes, it is and it should be up there with the best when you think of great watch brands. If you value the artisanal work, the materials, the designs, and the amazing amount of heritage and history in any watch brand, then Breguet has this in spades. And if you’re thinking about that Daytona, or that Royal Oak, maybe have a look a Tradition 7057 or Marine Chronograph, or if you’re after something a little more dressy, the Classique Quantieme Perpetual, you won’t regret it!

COMMENTARY: Does A Watch’s Ability To Photograph Well Change Your Love For It?

Matt Clymo — Sat, 02 Dec 2023 06:00:00 +0000

In the age of social, many of us are taking pics of what’s on our wrists, which led us to ask, “Does how a watch photograph affect your love for it?

It’s an interesting question. Social media has changed a lot of things in our lives, and one of those things for many of us is living our life online, sharing with the world our adventures, trips, families and hobbies. Whilst this doesn’t affect all of us out there, it does for most. How many times do you head out now and see a table of people at a cafe or restaurant and rather than talking deep in conversation with their friends or family, you’ll see at least one or two of these on their phone? Possibly taking pics of their food or drink #lovinglife #foodporn #celebration

Yes, coffee and watches are a thing!

But if you’re a watch nut like me, and many of you out there, the chances you’ve taken a wrist shot or wrist roll and put it up on Instagram or Facebook (or insert your social platform of choice here!) And if you are like me, it’s a daily occurrence and you want to make them great pics as there are a lot of good photographers out there now, especially with the advancements in phones and editing apps. It seems that it’s getting harder to take a bad photo of our watches.

The Zenith Skyline is one watch that is hard to take a bad picture of, like this one taken on the iPhone 13

However, some watches are naturally more photogenic than others. There are some watches that just can’t take a bad pic, and then some that can’t seem to take a good pic at all! Now this all depends on how the watch is designed, the dial colour and material as well as the crystal shape and how effective the anti-reflective crystal is. There are a lot of factors that get taken into account and depending on the combination of all these, you can have a highly photogenic supermodel, or something that you can never quite capture the beauty of.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph is one watch that is a pleasure to shoot, the grey on the wrist above, and the blue in the car below!

Being an avid watch photographer, I love it when you find a watch that takes great photos, no matter what. It’s a joy to know you can pull out your phone for that quick wrist shot to share on a Facebook group with minimal editing, or take it off your wrist and set up a great moody shot with a camera and create a masterpiece shot. On the flip side, it’s highly annoying when you just can’t seem to get a decent pic no matter how hard you try. Or you have to go to much greater lengths to get the right shot and if you don’t have an at-home studio (which I don’t) then it’s a lot of trial and error!

The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni – love the watch but the domed crystal makes it very hard to get a clean photo!

It’s the latter that got me thinking about this small niche corner of the watch world. Does the watch’s ability to photograph well impact how you feel about it on a daily basis? Does it impact how much you wear it or does it affect how much enjoyment you get from said timepiece? Personally, I had to think about this for a while and the conclusion I came to was that for me personally, it does and it doesn’t. Yes, I know this is fence-sitting, but hear me out.

The Tudor Black Bay Third Generation – one of my current favourites to wear and photograph

When I think about my collection over the years, how it’s changed, and what I’ve kept and let go depending on the situation, I’ve realised that some pieces were a dream to take photos of, but for some reason, just didn’t do it for me in person and on the wrist. Conversely, others were the complete opposite – love it on the wrist and how it wears and makes me feel, but terrible for photography! There have been many, many images I’ve taken and then deleted as I wasn’t happy with them and when you’re an active member on forums, chat groups and just building your Insta page, then the final photo in my mind is important.

The Omega Seamaster was one piece that was great in real life, but hard to capture due to the polished ceramic dial and laser-etched waves. The black also reflected the light quite a lot.

I’ve previously worn watches more for their ability to photograph than I have for my pure love of the piece, which in the end, has ultimately led me to let it go to a better home – to be loved and cared for, not treated as some prize piece just being used for it’s good looks! But is that wrong to wear it as it takes great pics even if you don’t love the piece as much? Surely part of the joy of owning it is what you do with it regardless, right?

The Tudor Black Bay GMT – one piece I let go due to it not connecting with me the way I thought it would, but great to capture on camera.

Maybe. The purist in me says buy only what you love and will wear and enjoy each day, as the reality is, you look at your watch more each day than you take a photo of it. But then there is that part of me that wants the watch to take great photos, to share my love of the hobbies that are watches and watch photography. #Spreadthelove #watchphotography!

The Rolex Sea-Dweller. One piece that I love to wear, and love to take pics of, and one I’ll be keeping around for quite some time!

Let me know your thoughts on this topic. Have you this issue, or am I just being plain weird? Leave your comments below and if you want, add your Instagram handle in the comments to let people know about your account. In the meantime, here are a few of my other favourites from the past few months…Spread the love #Watchfam!

Opinion – Watch Advice

6 Incredible Mechanical Digital Time Watches!

Who says you can’t mix digital and mechanical together? In this article, we delve into the marvels of those who are taking mechanical pieces of art and displaying the time digitally…

1 – Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon

Related Reading: The Art Of Complications – The Tourbillon

2 – Amida Digitrend

Related Reading: MB&F Relives The Dream With The HM8 MkII

3 – A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Related Reading: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in Honeygold

4 – Franck Müller Curvex CX Master Jumper

5 – De Bethune DBD

Related Reading: De Bethune kicks off Dubai Watch Week 2023 With Brand New DBD Evergreen!

Related Reading: De Bethune’s DB28 goes XS x2 for Gevena Watch Days

6 – IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years

Related Reading: The History Of IWC Schaffhausen

OPINION: Beyond The Runway – Why ‘Fashion Watches’ Matter (And Always Have!)

More Than A Brand Name

The Cartier Paradox

Related Reading: The Santos Stories – A Brief History Of The Iconic Watch

Innovation From Anywhere

The Future & Final Thoughts

What’s Your Ultimate Three-Watch Collection?

We asked the team here at Watch Advice, and here are their picks for a three-watch collection, where money is no object! (Ah we can dream can’t we?!)

Matt’s Three Watch Collection

Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe

GMT Balancier Convexe Specs

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech

Luminor Perpetual Calendar Specs

F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical

Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Specs

Mario’s Three Watch Collection

MB&F: Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO (Orange)

LM Perpetual EVO Specs

Trilobe: Une Folle Journée (Blue)

Une Folle Journée Specs

Daniel Roth: Regulateur Tourbillon C187

Regulateur Tourbillon C187 Specs

Sameera’s Three Watch Collection

Daily Wear

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph

Royal Oak Offshore Specifications

The Weekender

Roger Dubuis – Knights Of The Round Table Titanium Damascus

Knights Of The Round Table Titanium Damascus Specifications

The “Special Event”

Breguet – Classique Complications 3795

Classique Complications 3795

Five of the Best Watches from High Fashion Houses

Chanel J12

Learn more about and browse the Chanel J12 collection here

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo

Learn more about and browse the Bulgari Octo lineup here!

Tiffany & Co. x Onlywatch Bird On a Rock

Learn more about the Tiffany & Co. Bird On a Rock here!

Hermès H08

Learn more about the H08 collection here!

Louis Vuitton Tambour

Learn more and browse the Tambour collection here!

Final Thoughts

These Watch Collabs Don’t Exist (But I Wish They Did!)

Watch collaborations, once theory and ‘politics,’ now flood the landscape of the industry. But what makes a good watch collab? More importantly, what do I think that certain companies are missing out on?

Oris: With Our Powers Combined…

Zenith: Gotta Go Fast

Swatch: For The Love of Hype

Final Thoughts

OPINION: Has Our Perception Of Watch Values Changed?

Expensive, overpriced or fair value? We explore how our value perception of watches has changed over the past few years and ask the question – do we have a realistic expectation of watch values & pricing these days?

OPINION: Is Hublot The Most Misunderstood Brand In The Industry?

There’s no brand more polarising than Hublot, and we take a look into the reasons why, and look to tackle these misconceptions head on!

Hublot Is Too Big, Bold & Polarising vs Other Brands

Hublot Is Too Artsy, & Not For The Average Person

Hublot Has Too Many Limited Editions

Hublot Has A Lack Of Heritage & Expertise

There Is No Innovation In Hublot

Hublot Is Expensive & Uses ETA Movements

Hublot Is Better Bought Second Hand

Hublot Is Expensive To Service

Hublot Has Misaligned Bezel Screws

The Average Hublot Wearer Isn’t Who You Think!

How Watch Advice Sees Hublot Today