Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status. 

In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020. 

Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving. 

Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’. 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: 

I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santos-Dumont, it’s look and feel, from the moment I closed the buckle. Previously, I’ve danced around purchasing a piece from Cartier’s Santos De Cartier collection, after being drawn in by the iconic design and the appeal of more recent updates – like the interchangeable strap system. It started with the Santos De Cartier Large in Gold and Steel. Then when the Large Steel model was released with a graduated blue dial – I was at the boutique the day of the release to try one on. 

Evidently I purchased neither, because it felt a little too chunky and out of proportion for my personal tastes. These aren’t large or bulky watches by any means, but I own plenty of sports watches, and sought something more refined. 

Enter, the Santos-Dumont. Admittedly, this was my first close encounter with the ‘newer’ Santos-Dumont collection, updated last year at SIHH 2019. I’ll be the first to say it – I’ve been missing out. 

Obvious dressiness aside, I found the Santos-Dumont to be super versatile, pairing nicely with my double denim ensemble. The Santos-Dumont, particularly in two-tone, is not a watch you ‘dress down’, but a watch that dresses you and your outfit up! 

[For a full recap of my first impressions, as they happened, check out this episode of my podcast, OT: The Podcast.] 

THE WATCH: 

Measuring in at 43.5mm x 31.4mm the Santos-Dumont in Large, isn’t that large, and felt perfect on my wrist. At just 7.3mm in thickness, the Santos-Dumont has a respectful and unobtrusive profile. The case is also water-resistant to nifty 30 bar, which is plenty for any well-intentioned wear. 

Framing an anthracite dial with Roman numeral markers is a yellow gold bezel matching the hands, which are gold-toned steel sword shaped. At 3 o’clock, you’ll find a beaded crown, with a synthetic blue cabochon spinel. 

On wrist is where you feel the difference in refinement between the Cartier Santos and the Santos-Dumont. If you found the regular Santos a little large, I strongly encourage you to seek a Santos-Dumont out. In fact, if you’re like me and don’t own a dress watch because you’re well aware of how rambunctious (or even downright rough) you can be with your timepieces – then I recommend you try a Santos-Dumont. 

Surprisingly, this watch induced a slight behavioural change on the wrist. Not only do you feel an overwhelming desire to protect it, but the proportions insist on a near bespoke fit, as Cartier offers a range of Santos-Dumont pieces in Small, Large and XL. 

As mentioned earlier, the Cartier Santos-Dumont No.14 Bis LE features an in-house manual movement, which is a step up from the quartz movements seen at the entry level of Cartier’s watches. To those held back by the quartz movements in the first generation, the new mechanical Santos-Dumont’s are a game changer. If I owned this watch, it wouldn’t be something I wore everyday, so hand-wound movement would work just fine. 

The grey alligator strap was everything you’d expect from a luxury brand like Cartier. The strap matched the anthracite dial and provided a nice contrast to the yellow gold bezel, giving youth to this gentlemen’s watch. The strap also features quick release pins, which always earn extra points. 

FINAL THOUGHTS: 

If the Santos-Dumont came on a bracelet, I’d already own one of these modern day classics. 

It’s a gentlemen’s watch, which made me feel more responsible. And, for the money, you’re getting a solid package of stylish and timeless design, from a brand with huge pedigree. The limited nature of the No.14 Bis offers up something a little more special, and unique. 

Australian Retail Price: $10,900.00

Availability: Available now, Limited to 500 pieces worldwide

For more information visit Cartier.com.au

Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection has always piqued my interest, and when a 42mm variant was released back in 2016 – I paid attention. Primarily because I saw the size as more accessible, and the design more refined and in proportion. In fact, back then I wrote about this exact model —  The Hublot Spirit Big Bang Moonphase Titanium — for another publication. Surprisingly though – it took a good four years before I actually went hands-on for proper inspection.  After a couple of weeks on loan, I’m happy to report back on what it’s like to wear the Spirit of Big Bang around town.

First Impressions

As far as first impressions go, the Spirit of Big Bang is bold, brawny and makes quite the splash. Although fairly monochromatic in design, the SOBB feels significant, carrying an aura of cool on wrist. The size isn’t outrageous, it’s comfortable to wear, and from a distance, the Skeleton dial seamlessly blends into the titanium case. Although watch enthusiasts will instantly recognise the tonneau case shape, the Spirit of Big Bang maintained an ‘under-the-radar’ feel to it – which I found appealing.

On The Wrist

On the wrist, the Hublot SOBB sits snugly thanks to the curve on the underside of the tonneau case, which balances its height. Coming in at a reasonable 42mm, the case has a balanced blend of polish and satin finishing. Initially, I found the height took some getting used to, being a little thicker than my usual. The Spirit Of Big Bang isn’t going to fit under any shirt cuff, but with a watch like this – that’s sort of the idea. As the SOBB has both small seconds display and a moon phase,  the height is likely a result of a larger movement thanks to the dual complications. 

Framing the dial is an industrious titanium bezel, which also has a mixture of polished and satin finishing and the quintessentially Hublot ‘H’ screws. The high-quality rubber strap itself was comfortable, supple, and luxurious. The matching stainless steel deployant buckle was easy to use and adjust, featuring a solid amount detail. Fuelling the SOBB is the Hublot Caliber HUB1770, which is visible thanks to a sapphire caseback. This Caliber also has a 50-hour power reserve, and the SOBB is water-resistant to 100 metres.

Visually, there’s a fair bit going on, and being an openwork dial – legibility naturally takes a bit of a back seat. That said, I had no issues with readability thanks to the strong lume-filled hour markers and hands. The hands themselves are brushed stainless steel, and part skeleton (at the base) and part lume filled, politely matching the case. The oversized and exposed date wheel at 12 o’clock (or thereabouts) balances nicely with the sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and of course – the moon phase display at 6 o’clock. Like the rest of the dial, the moon phase has an industrial feel to it and brings a touch colour to the dial. Additionally, we see red accents sprinkled on the black inner-bezel, with a dark red minute (or seconds) track. 

Final Thoughts

There are so many features of the Spirit of Big Bang that excite me, from the skeleton dial to the lightweight titanium tonneau case. This is not a low key timepiece, and it’s not supposed to be. The Spirit of Big Bang maintains plenty of Hublot’s DNA, and the barrel case doesn’t stray too far from the Big Bang family. If you’re after a watch you can wear daily, and your days lean more towards luxury streetwear than suiting – the SOBB could be the watch for you.

Based on what I normally wear, the SOBB felt like a holiday to an exotic destination that you wouldn’t normally have chosen, but you’re glad there once you arrive. It’s a welcome reminder to leave your comfort zone once in a while, and to try out new designs – like open-worked dials!

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Specification:

Model Reference: 647.NX.1137.RX
Case Diameter: 42mm
Dial: Skeletonised
Case: Satin-finished and Polished Titanium
Bezel: Satin-finished and Polished Titanium with 6 H-shaped Titanium Screws
Movement: HUB1770 Self-winding Skeleton Big Date Moonphase Movement
Power Reserve: Min. 50 hours
Water Resistance: 10 ATM / 100 meters

Australian Retail Pricing: $26,300.00

Availability: Available now

For enquiries visit the Hublot Boutique Sydney : Shop 5, 84 King St , Sydney , NSW, 2000

Or enquire at local Authorised dealers :

• Brisbane – The Hour Glass and Monards Gold Coast
• Melbourne – The Hour Glass, Monards and Watches of Switzerland
• Sydney – The Hour Glass, Monards and Swiss Concept
• Perth – Watches of Switzerland

Clipping shut the deployant buckle of the just-refreshed IWC Portugieser Chronograph; it’s easy to see why this is one of the brand’s most popular watches, in Australia at least. It’s dressy, but still offers a healthy dose of sports functionality.

What makes this new reference, announced back in February, even better the movement beating away inside. For the first time, it’s an IWC-manufactured calibre, and while it can’t be seen on the wrist, or make much of a difference to daily wear, it still feels like a significant step up.

The Dial and Hands 

The face of the Portugieser Chronograph is refreshingly familiar, thanks to that iconic combination of applied Arabic numerals and leaf (or feuille) shaped hands. The chronograph layout puts a minutes register at the top and a running seconds display at six. I’m more familiar with the white-dialled version of the Portugieser so was happy to give the black a try. And boy, is this dial black. The colour is incredibly deep and dynamic; if you catch it on the right angle, it takes on a blue-ish sheen around the edges. I must say that, because of the dark dial and the slender, highly polished hands and hour markers, legibility was a bit of an issue at times. Still, the overall beauty made me forget about that fact almost immediately. 

The Case and Strap 

At 41mm, this watch is sized just right. The steel case sits well on the wrist, flush and, even though it is on the larger side for a dressy style like this, it looks right and is very comfortable. The polished surfaces, slim filigree bezel and refined chronograph pushers match the dressy dial of the Portugieser well, as does the strap. Now, usually, I’m a fan of swapping stock straps out, but for me, the IWC Portugieser is a watch that belongs on an alligator strap. It just works. The newly-designed double folding clasp is comfortable and secure too, with some nice detail to it.

The Movement

Here’s where things get interesting. Up until now, this chronograph has relied on third-party movements. Classic and reliable, but lacking that something special. Well, the Portugieser Chronograph has finally been given an in-house upgrade in the form of the Calibre 69355, which brings with it a range of incremental mechanical improvements, but most importantly for me — a pretty view through the clear caseback. Every time I took this watch off, I took a few extra moments to stop and stare. Now, it’s worth noting that IWC offers other in-house versions of the Portugieser Chronograph, but they’re slightly larger (and more expensive) models using the 89000 series movement. For most people, this movement will offer the best of both worlds. 

Final Thoughts

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph was already a watch that did pretty much everything right. Balanced, refined and offering substantial value. There wasn’t too much that IWC could do to improve it … except add an in-house movement. And now that they’ve done that, it’s one of the best in class dressy chronos out there.

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Specification:

Case Diameter: 41mm
Dial: Black dial
Case: Stainless Steel case, Sapphire glass, convex, anti-reflective coating on both sides
Movement: IWC-manufactured 69355 Calibre
Power Reserve: Approximately 46 hours
Functions: Chronograph with minutes and seconds, small hacking seconds
Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30 meters

Australian Retail Pricing : $11,500.00

Availability : Now

Local Authorised Dealers :

• Brisbane – Hardy Brothers and The Hour Glass
• Melbourne – IWC Boutique, Kennedy ,Watches of Switzerland and Anton Jewellery
• Sydney – IWC Boutique, Gregory Jewellers , Swiss Concept, Watches of Switzerland and The Hour Glass
• Perth – Kennedy Crown and Watches of Switzerland

There is a story that is Bremont. One of hardship and loss. One of innovation and perseverance. A young brand, perhaps, in an industry filled with centuries-old maisons, but perhaps by virtue of this very fact, Bremont is not burdened by legacy approaches and is boldly pushing forward to create timepieces of exceptional character and quality in house, at their own workshop in Henley-on-Thames.

Aviation is the defining theme for the company, and it shows in their watches, their partnerships, and in the love of flight of brothers-founders Nick and Giles English.

I’ve had the pleasure of recently acquiring the distinctive MBII watch, and today I am glad to be sharing some words about my experience, feelings, and thoughts on it with you.

Nick and Giles love for aviation has heavily influenced Bremont’s direction, from it’s branding to partnerships. And, although Bremont has since expanded beyond the category, Pilots watches are still very much the essence of the brand, remaining its core focus since launch.

Over a decade ago, Bremont was approached by aviation company Martin-Baker, who supply over 70% of the world’s air forces with ejection seats for their fighter jets, with collaboration in mind. In 2010 these discussions led to the development of the Martin-Baker (MB) range, which included the MBI, a model reserved solely for Martin-Baker ejectees. Now a decade into production, the  MB range is quintessentially Bremont, and their most popular collection.

Luckily for the rest of us who have not ejected out of a moving aircraft, the MB Series includes several other models, including the MBII, featured here today.  Let’s go hands-on with the Bremont MBII White – my personal watch, featuring a distinctive green central barrel.

THE DIAL & HANDS

The MBII’s crisp white dial is visible through a domed, anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The dome of the crystal is rather subtle, and ties in beautifully with the curvature on the watch. The dial features a well-proportioned day and date function at 3 o’clock, and a 60-second inner-bezel. Accents of red, including some anti-shock iconography and a red-tipped seconds hand, adds the perfect amount of vibrancy to the white dial.

The large black handset contrasts with the white face and makes reading the time on the fly a breeze. Although featuring SuperLuminova on both the hands and dial, there’s a noticeable difference in strength between the two. The lume is much stronger on the hands, and unfortunately quite weak on the markers and numerals. 

The second hand features a yellow and black loop, in a direct reference to Martin Baker’s distinctive ejection seat pull handles. It adds a welcome pop of colour and casts a lovely shadow as the second’s sweep by.

The MBII is also available with a black dial.

THE CASE

The MBII is constructed of hardened stainless steel, which has been built to be worn – and worn hard. In fact, the Bremont MB range is tough enough to endure the same extreme testing as Martin-Baker ejection seats themselves. This includes vibration, temperature extremes, salt fog – and of course – ejection. Having previously interviewed several Martin-Baker ejectees, I’ve heard first hand how extremely taxing, brutal, and sometimes lethal the experience is (RIP Goose).

Bremont’s innovative shock protection includes its famous and unique Trip-Tick case technology. The Trip-Tick system is made up of three core parts – the case bezel, a separate case middle, and the case back. This highly unorthodox approach to case construction has helped Bremont establish individuality in design and brand identity.

The MBII comes in at 43mm in diameter and 22mm between the lugs, which is ordinarily something too large for my tastes. On the wrist, however, the MBII wears smaller than one might expect thanks to a streamlined caseback and deceivingly compact lugs. The lugs and case were originally inspired by the ‘leading edge’ of a wing section, again a nod to Bremont’s lineage in aviation.

Propelling the MBII is the BE-36AE automatic chronometer. Based on an ever-reliable ETA movement, and featuring a 38-hour power reserve, the MBII is chronometer rated to ISO 3159 standard and is water-resistant to a handy 100 metres. 

My favourite feature of the MBII is the knurled, green anodized aluminium central barrel. Bremont offers a variety of different barrel colour options in addition to green, including orange, blue, and anthracite. Red is also an option exclusive to the MBI, for those who choose to terminate their flight early by ejection. 

Adorning the right of the case are two grippy and decorated crowns set at 2 and 4. Featuring Bremont’s trademark propellor motif, the crown at 2 quickly sets the day, date, and time. The crown at 4 features a bullseye and operates the MBII’s internal bi-directional bezel with the brands incredibly smooth ‘roto-click’ technology, with a rewarding tactile click for every minute turned.

THE STRAP

The MBII is available on either a black leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, with all models accompanied with a bonus ‘Temple Island’ rubber strap. Knowing that this piece was destined for either a Rubber or NATO strap, I chose to pass on the bracelet. Bremont offers three different strap sizes, and it’s worth sizing yourself properly when making your purchase.

At 22mm between the lugs, the rubber strap is slightly chunkier than I’m used to, though after a week or so, it has broken in nicely and begun to mould to the shape of my wrist.

WHY I CHOSE IT?

Of all the watches Bremont makes, why did I choose this particular model as the one to get my feet wet with? A number of factors drew me to the MBII White.

Firstly, the dial – which is surprisingly a colour I had not yet owned. It’s a refreshing, clean, and fun alternative to the rest of my collection. The MBII is also impressively tough. Having never been one to spare my watches from their intended use, the all brushed design and lack of polished surfaces are absolutely perfect for me. 

Functionally the MBII has everything I need and more, and the overall design allows enough versatility and variety to keep me interested. Couple this with a green central barrel, which for obvious reasons felt like the perfect fit.

A lovely design, a lovely dial, and a great bit of story make a compelling choice for anyone looking for a proper GMT sports watch for use inside and outside the cockpit.

Click here to read more about the Bremont MBII Range.

French micro-brand Baltic first popped up on my radar back in 2019 after making a splash on social media, and across watch media. What caught my attention was how this entry-level brand seamlessly entered the collection’s of several high profile watch collectors, and onto the wrist’s of a couple of highly-respected watch editors. Intrigued initially by the Instagram hype and drawn in by the rave reviews from trusted friends, I knew it was time to take a closer look.

Being an unapologetic fan of the dive watch who was entering the peak of Australian Summer, I thought it only appropriate to get my hands on the Baltic Aquascaphe. Of the combinations offered, I opted for the Black and Silver, with both a bracelet and additional rubber strap.

The Dial and Hands

Interestingly within Baltic’s Aquascaphe collection, the brand offers two dial variants – a grain finish and a sunray finish. The grainy dial (WHICH THIS ONE HAS) adds lots of texture, which combined with the ‘sandwich style’ markers, brings a lot of character to an otherwise subtle watch. The cleanliness of the white super-luminova markers offer contrast to the textured dial.

The double-domed sapphire crystal gives perfect clarity as you gaze at the pebbly black dial, whilst oozing vintage charm. Baltic’s use of sapphire extends to the unidirectional black bezel to add some extra-depth, and emulate the bakelite bezels of yesteryear. The curved sapphire crystal across these two important watch parts adds depth, and a bounty of interesting surfaces for light to bounce off.

The Case

Made from 316L stainless steel, the delightfully proportioned case comes in at 38mm (or 39mm including the bezel) in diameter, and 47mm lug-to-lug. On the wrist, the Aquascaphe sits comfortably, and the smaller-than-usual case feels just about perfect. The case sits at 12mm high, meaning the diver remains deliberately low-key. Baltic earn some extra points from me here, as they tug on my vintage watch enthusiast heart strings.

Powering the Aquascaphe is a Miyota 9039, with a 42-hour power reserve, which given the price point is totally acceptable. As you might expect, the Baltic has an ample water resistance of 200 meters.

The Bracelet

The Baltic Aquascaphe comes equipped with a ‘beads of rice’ style bracelet, which drapes smoothly around your wrist. Visually, the bracelet is quite dynamic thanks to the mixture of polished and brushed stainless steel links. The best part – Baltic have included ‘quick release’ endlinks, which make changing the bracelet a breeze. Honestly, it’s something which is traditionally quite painful, and this thoughtful feature reduces the risk of scratching your precious lugs, losing a springbar, and messing about with endlinks. You can remove the bracelet in just a matter of seconds.

Even better, the bracelet is actually interchangeable with all Baltic models, and available to purchase individually. You can also purchase the Aquascaphe with a black rubber (tropic) strap separately, or in addition to the bracelet. The black rubber strap accompanying the Aquascaphe is well matched to the rest of the watch and is light, comfortable and breathable – thanks to the pattern of perforation.

Final Thoughts

Priced at just over 1,000 Australian dollars for the bracelet version, it’s hard to fault the Aquascaphe package. The attention to detail doesn’t end with the watch – and extends to packaging and box – which pay tribute to dive watches of the 1970s.

Dive watches are known and loved for their versistily, and the Aquascaphe is no different. It’s a watch you can comfortably wear all week long in the office, or – as a no-fuss weekend warrior. Aesthetically, the Baltic Aquascaphe works hard to be a very thoughtful vintage-inspired dress watch.

Baltic sell the Aquascaphe as the ultimate ‘everyday’ watch, and given the price – they’ve made a strong case. It’s clear that Baltic have created the Aquascaphe in earnest, striving to solve the trade-offs we tend to see in entry level micro-brands, and have made a splash in doing so. From product to packaging to website, Baltic has clearly been created from a place of passion, and is a brand I’ll be keeping a close eye on over the next 12 months.

If there’s one thing that IWC has a handle on, it’s Pilot’s watches. Within the brands iconic Pilot’s collection is the popular Mark XVIII range, which serves as a charming entry point to the family. I recently had the pleasure of spending several weeks with the Mark XVIII (reference IW327009), which is the stainless steel, black dial model, on a leather strap. 

Having previously reviewed several other IWC Pilot’s pieces, including the Pilot’s Automatic Spitfire, I was curious to explore the brand’s entry-level offering further.

The Dial & Hands

Featuring a black dial with white luminescent markers, the Mark XVIII is simple and understated. The large white markers and numerals are easy to read at a glance, and perfectly contrast with the black dial. Even in full sun, it’s easy to read the dial, which under harsher light appears to turn matt. There’ll be no red-eyes come evening thanks to the generous luminescence and large markers.

Since it’s release, the Mark XVIII’s date window has been a sticking point for some, primarily for its lack of symmetry, or it’s mere existence. Ultimately this comes down to personal taste, and after several weeks of wearing the Mark XVIII – I took no issue with it. The date window, admittedly a little out of place, blended in nicely with the rest of the dial, thanks to a matching date wheel. It’s also worth noting that this is an undeniable improvement on the it’s predecessor’s (the Mark XVII) date display.

The Case & Strap

The brushed stainless steel case comes in at 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick, which is a fairly standard size in today’s market. On wrist, the IWC Mark XVIII is comfortable and although a little long in the lugs, still feels low key. The case itself has very little in the way of polished surfaces, adding to the overall subtlety of the watch. 

The Mark XVIII is 20mm between the lugs, and this particular reference comes equipped with a lovely calf strap, that tapers gently to the buckle. The beauty of such a versatile design is that it allows you to swap the strap out and introduce some variety. The cruisey nature of the Mark XVIII means it can easily be dressed up with a bracelet, or down with a nato or canvas strap. The monochromatic dial makes for endless strap options.

The Movement

Propelling the Mark XVIII is the 35111 Calibre, which is a modified Selita movement, with a standard 42-hour’s power reserve. IWC does offer in-house movements on more pricey offerings within the Pilot’s collection, such as the Spitfire Range, which was recently updated to with in-house calibres. The Mark XVIII is priced at a level where we start to expect in-house movements and given the recent update to other parts of the range, we can only speculate as to the future of this collection.

Final Thoughts

The Mark XVIII is a refined and comfortable watch that flies under the radar. It’s a robust piece, water resistant to 60 meters, and the kind that you can effortlessly wear with just about anything. As there are 8 variations on the IWC Mark XVIII, including the one with a stainless steel bracelet (the reference IW327015), you’ve got plenty to choose from. 

The IWC Mark XVIII makes for a great everyday watch and would thoroughly be enjoyed by aviation enthusiasts, put off by larger pieces typically seen in this category. All in all, the Mark XVIII is robust, well-priced, and an understated take on the classic Pilot’s watch.

Specification

Case Diameter : 40.0 mm case and a thickness of 11mm
Dial: Black dial with luminescence
Case: Stainless Steel case, Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Movement: 35111 Calibre
Power Reserve: Approx 42 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes with central hacking seconds in the centre. Date indication at 3 o’clock. 
Water Resistance: 6 ATM

Australian Retail Pricing : $6,550.00

Availability : Available now 

Local Authorised Dealers :

• Brisbane – The Hour Glass
• Melbourne – IWC Boutique, Kennedy ,Watches of Switzerland and Anton Jewellery
• Sydney – Gregory Jewellers , Swiss Concept, Watches of Switzerland and The Hour Glass
• Perth – Kennedy Crown and Watches of Switzerland

Just a glance at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, and there’s no mistaking this bronze watches heritage, which draws inspiration from the original IWC Mark 11- a definitive Pilot’s watch, with legitimate military provenance.

First Impressions

If you’re on the hunt for a unique take on the iconic Pilot’s watch and want an in-house movement with impressive power-reserve, look no further. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a robust and well-proportioned take on the quintessential military classic.

The Case

The sandblasted bronze case serves up an interesting texture, and attractive take on bronze. The case is warm with a golden sheen, especially under sunlight, where it becomes quick playful with the light. As you might expect, the bronze case is designed to patina over time, and develop a distinctive look reflecting the owner’s wear pattern. The press piece provided was well worn, having already developed its own unique patina. And being bronze, after just a few weeks of wear, you’ll begin to notice the uniqueness and individuality present itself. The steel caseback features an engraved Spitfire – a reminder of the timepieces namesake.

At 39mm in diameter and 10.6mm in height, the Bronze Automatic Spitfire sits neatly on the wrist. Although a little long in the lugs, it does wear slightly larger than you’d expect but is by no means obtrusive. IWC proudly highlight the smaller case as a demonstration of the brand has taken note of market shifts towards smaller, more wearable timepieces. Having seen plenty of bronze watches fallen victim to impracticable large cases, it’s fantastic to see IWC take note.

Powering the Bronze Automatic Spitfire is IWC’s new in-house manufactured movement, the 32110 calibre. Offering up 72 hours of power reserve, IWC have designed the Calibre Family 32000 to be rugged and reliable. By using silicon components for the first time on the escape wheel and pallet level, IWC has increased overall wear-resistance and improving the movement’s longevity.

Should you find yourself frequenting a cockpit, you’ll also be pleased to know that the Bronze Automatic Spitfire also has a soft-iron inner case for protection from magnetic fields.

The Dial & Hands

The dial and large hands are legible thanks to the sapphire glass crystal with anti-reflective coating on either side, ensuring utmost clarity. The Red ‘SPITFIRE’ text reminds you that this is a special watch, and serves up a subtle pop of colour on the otherwise low-key dial.

The real standout feature of the Bronze Spitfire Automatic is the olive green dial, which at times is a dark forest green, at others a much brighter green. Even in full sun, the dial maintains its vibrancy, appearing to have a matt finish. The dial has a mixture of both white and cream luminescence which pairs nicely with the warm bronze case.

Over the last few years, we’ve seen the increasing popularity of bronze watches with green dials. However, the IWC Spitfire Automatic in Bronze is one of the best executions of the popular combination that we’ve seen.

The brown calfskin strap complements the warm green dial and brings earthy tones to the party. The strap is comfortable, and tapers down from 20mm between the lugs, before meeting the bronze buckle. It’s a great option for colder months, but come summer, I’ve got a feeling that the Spitfire would take nicely to fabric strap, especially given the 6 bar water resistance.

Final thoughts

Having not been a massive fan of bronze watches in the past, I was genuinely surprised how attached I became to this timepiece over the several weeks it was in my care. The fun, no-fuss and robust design make for an attractive package. Remembering the in-house movement, you’re getting a Pilot watch with a whole lot of character for the money.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire Specification

Case Diameter : 39.0 mm case and a thickness of 10.6 mm
Dial: Green dial with luminescence
Case: Bronze case, Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Movement: 32110 Calibre
Power Reserve: Approx 72 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes with central hacking seconds in the centre. Date indication at 3 o’clock. 
Water Resistance: 6 ATM

Australian Retail Pricing : $7,500.00

Availability : Available now 

Local Authorised Dealers :

• Brisbane – The Hour Glass
• Melbourne – IWC Boutique, Kennedy ,Watches of Switzerland and Anton Jewellery
• Sydney – Gregory Jewellers , Swiss Concept, Watches of Switzerland and The Hour Glass
• Perth – Kennedy Crown and Watches of Switzerland

Recently, we had the opportunity to spend several weeks with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute Special Edition. Released to mark the brand’s 75th anniversary, Mido launched two variations of this vintage-inspired dive watch, which is available in either a Mediterranean Blue or a Deep Black model. Today though, we’re going hands-on with the Deep Black variant.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

This is a lot of watch for the money, the package you’re getting for under $1,500 is substantial – and a reminder that you don’t have to spend big bucks to get a capable and attractive tool watch.

THE DIAL & HANDS

Legibility is no issue on the Ocean Star Tribute thanks to the use of Super-LumiNova on the hour-markers, baton-style hands and bezel. Keeping in line with the heavily vintage-inspired design, both the applied indices and hands are an off-white cream colour, imitating the patina’d look often seen on vintage dive watches. The lollipop-style orange seconds hand offers a pop of colour and compliments the custardy indices. At 3 o’clock you’ll also find an unobtrusive day/date function, which blends into the rest of the dial thanks to a matching date wheel. 

THE CRYSTAL

At first glance, you might mistake the Ocean Star Tribute’s boxed Sapphire crystal for acrylic. However, tougher and less prone to scratches, the use of sapphire crystal blends modern materials with vintage design, ensuring legibility. The curved edges of the crystal offer up some intriguing reflections and distortions to the edge of the dial, depending on the angle.

THE CASE

Coming in at 40.5mm in diameter, the Ocean Star Tribute features straight lugs and a polished case that’s the right size for the job. At a touch over 13mm high, the Ocean Star has presence without being too hefty. The unidirectional bezel matches the dial thanks to a black aluminium insert, which feels satisfying to turn. The caseback features a starfish, emblematic of the Ocean Star, and other detailed specifications of the watch. Housed within is the Swatch Group’s new Caliber 80, which is a base ETA 2836-2 with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 200m/660ft, the Ocean Star Tribute has you covered for most of life’s adventures.

THE BRACELET

The ‘beads of rice’ style bracelet drapes comfortably around your wrist and feels light on. Should actual diving be your thing, it also features a handy divers extension, allowing for adjustments on the fly. The bracelet links have been polished to match the case, but didn’t at all feel delicate, and are sure to develop more character with wear. Interestingly, the Ocean Star Tribute measures 21mm between the lugs, which means switching out to your favourite strap may prove tricky. However, the watch does come with an additional black technical fabric strap, with orange stitching, as part of the kit.

FINAL THOUGHTS

On the wrist, the Ocean Star Tribute wears comfortably and offers up an attractive and well-executed vintage-inspired package. The value proposition is strong, and the build quality feels solid. If you’re in the market for an affordable dive watch and share our love for vintage timepieces, then this watch may be for you.

OCEAN STAR TRIBUTE SPECIFICATION:

Model Reference: M026.830.11.051.00
Case Diameter: 40.5mm
Dial: Black 
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Movement: Automatic Mido Caliber 80
Case Height: 13.43mm
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day and date
Water Resistance: 20 ATM / 200m

Australian Retail Pricing : $1,475.00

First impressions

The white Seamaster Diver 300M is a handsome watch. The design is modern and forward-looking, at a time when a lot of dive watches are still looking to their past for inspiration. The build quality is impressive, and the price is right. If you’re a fan of dive watches, I highly recommend you check out the highly versatile Omega Seamaster Diver 300M collection, which is a compelling proposition in the $5,000 – $10,000 dive watch category.

The case

The stainless steel case comes in at 42mm, and 20mm between the lugs. On wrist, the case is comfortable, and hugs nicely. The Seamaster Diver 300M wears slightly smaller than your typical 42mm watch, which is due to the shorter lugs that balance out the larger case.

Housed inside is the Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a self-winding movement, with METAS approval. Boasting a capable 55-hour power reserve, the Calibre 8800 is visible through a sapphire crystal display caseback. The movement itself is attractive, with Omega utilising the wave theme on both the caseback and the engraved movement.

At 10 o’clock you’ll find a second crown with the timepieces helium escape valve, which although unnecessary, didn’t really bother me. Realistically – it’s a function only of use for professional divers operating at great depths for prolonged periods. It’s there, but I didn’t find it intrusive, and for that reason – I’m okay with it.

The bracelet

The bracelet felt sturdy, with a heft that inspired confidence. The smooth clasp snaps into place nicely and is released by simultaneously pressing two pushers. I found the clasp was quite large and it took some getting used to. This clasp does feature a handy divers extension – which typically means a bigger clasp.

The Diver 300M is a stylish tool watch, that checks a lot of boxes. If I could, I’d ask for a bracelet that tapers down to 18mm, with a streamlined clasp to match. As the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is also available on a rubber strap, this might be a better option for those who aren’t into the bracelet.

The dial & hands

Those who know the Seamaster Diver 300M are familiar with the iconic wave motif on the dial. Like the others in the existing line-up, this Diver features laser-engraved waves on a polished white ceramic dial. At first, these waves are a little polarising, and I think that’s due to the fact it’s a bold approach to a dial patterning. The result is a well-defined pattern in deeper relief than its earlier model cousins.

However, one thing that struck me about the Seamaster 300M was how dynamic the dial actually is, and how the experience completely changes depending on the lighting. At times the ridges between engraved waves were crystal clear, and at others – almost washed out by heavy bouts of sunlight.

Omega has tastefully added a couple of pops of colour to the dial with red printing of ‘Seamaster’, and a varnished red tip to the second’s hand. These red accents contrast nicely with the white dial and give the watch a modern feel. Additional balance comes from the black ceramic bezel insert, with white enamel diving scale, that rounds the watch out nicely, acting like a visual border. Wave patterns subtly roll into the wide edges of the bezel, which allows for easy grip.

For the Seamaster 300M Diver, Omega has opted for blackened skeleton hour and minute hands, as well as the blacked second hand mentioned earlier.

To ensure maximum legibility, Omega has used generously sized but well proportioned SuperLumiNova plots, with blackened surrounds to ensure you always have an easy point of reference. The hands themselves, although skeletonised, are quite thick and have plenty of SuperLumiNova, meaning they don’t get lost on the dial. After spending a reasonable amount of time, I had no issues from dusk until dawn.

Final thoughts…

I didn’t think I’d be so drawn to the Seamaster Diver 300M going into this review. I’d seen the rest of the collection at Baselworld 2018, but after spending some proper time with the timepiece – it won me over. In my opinion, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is one of the most versatile divers I’ve worn in and a long time, and you’d be wise to try one out for yourself.

Reference : 210.30.42.20.04.001

Australian Retail Pricing : $7,100.00 on bracelet and $6,675.00 on rubber

Availability : November 2019

Local Omega Boutiques :

• Omega Brisbane – 1/188 Edward Street
• Omega Melbourne – 179 Collins Street Melbourne, Crown Melbourne and Chadstone Shopping Centre
• Omega Sydney – 20 Martin Place and Westfield Bondi Junction

Last week I attended an Adventurers Club at the brands Melbourne boutique, starring a presentation from Flight Lieutenant Steve Andrews, where he shared his journey in the RAAF, and his inspirational personal ejection story. 

After Flight Lieutenant Andrews finished presenting to the captivated boutique full of watch and aviation enthusiast, I had the pleasure of hosting a Q&A session with him. We dove deeper into his ejection from a Martin-Baker seat, and how the reality compared to the expectations set during his military training, before hearing about his brave return to flying – just 8 months later. It was truly inspirational to learn of his physical recovery from multiple breaks in his neck and back, as well as the mental recovery.

He also revealed his passion for watch collecting and love for the Bremont brand, highlighting his favourite piece as being his MB1 Martin-Baker special edition. The MB1 is offered for sale only to pilots who have survived the traumatising experience of ejecting from a jet and is not available to the public. Flight Lieutenant Andrews also spoke to the importance of timekeeping and a reliable watch to a pilot in a practical sense. And it was fascinating to hear how this analog technology still plays a bit part in the military.

I then welcomed Andrew Eden, the Managing Director of Martin-Baker Australia, to join the discussion (there were a few Andrew’s in the room). 

With an extensive and impressive military background, Andrew also shared how he ended up running Martin-Baker in Australia, before giving a detailed explanation of the Ejection Tie Club. Mr Eden then reflected on Flight Lieutenant Andrews Martin-Baker ejection experience and shared how a step-by-step explanation of the ejection process.

Andrew then revealed there was another Ejectee, Graham, in the room, who in town to collect his Bremont MB1. Although Martin-Baker has saved over 7,600 lives with their seats, it was still incredibly rare to have multiple ejectees in the one-room, and touching to listen as Graham shared his personal ejection experience from decades earlier, before receiving his MB1. It was a watch he’d be holding off buying for several years until the time was right – and I don’t think he could have timed it better.

All in all, it was a privilege to spend an evening with such inspirational gentlemen. It’s safe to say this sentiment was shared by all guests, who listened carefully throughout the evening.

If you’d like to attend an Adventurers Club evening, we suggest getting in touch with your local boutique or an authorised dealer, or make an enquiry here.