Ricardo Guadalupe needs no introduction – he has sat at the helm of Hublot for the past 12 years, steering it through some tough times and setting the brand up for success, which it has had plenty of. As of September, he took a step back from the CEO role, taking up a new position as the Honourary President of Hublot, making way for former Zenith and TAG Heuer CEO, Julien Tornare to step up to the plate. Before all this happened, we caught up with Ricardo at Watches & Wonders 2024 in Geneva and picked his brains about the brand’s history, the new watches and of course, where he see the brand going. So, without further ado, enjoy the following interview with Ricardo Guadalupe…

Pascal Béchu is a passionate and well-known figure in the world of luxury watchmaking. His career spans decades, in which he has held pivotal roles across prestigious watch brands. Through this, he has shared his knowledge of both the technical and aesthetic aspects of fine watchmaking, which has helped shape the numerous collections he has worked on. Pascal Béchu’s extensive experience gives him a unique perspective that allows him to bring together both tradition and innovation, two features that are the pillars of watchmaking for both Arnold & Son and Angelus.

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to sit down with Pascal Béchu and discuss the latest offerings from Arnold & Son and Angelus. As you may have seen already, Arnold & Son released two new timepieces into their Perpetual Moon collection, while Angelus has updated their Chronodate model with a stunning new dial.

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^{Arnold & Son celebrating the legacy of John Arnold}

Arnold & Son is a brand with English origins, tracing its roots all the way back to 1764. The brand was founded by renowned English watchmaker John Arnold. Arnold made significant contributions to the world of horology, especially the development of marine chronometers, which were of vital importance in navigating the seas. The brand is celebrating their 260th anniversary this year. They continue to integrate their legacy of precision, craftsmanship and innovation into their modern timepieces through traditional techniques.

“We get a lot of inspiration from the work of John Arnold. We don’t call it a 260-year anniversary. Instead, we call it a celebration of the legacy of John Arnold. We have three pillars that act as different collections. The first pillar is astronomy, which is what we talked about previously. This is where you find all our moon complications. The second pillar is what we call Chronometry. This is where all the timepieces that have been inspired by marine chronometers and all the quest for precision that John Arnold had during his lifetime can be found.”

“This second pillar is the collection where you can find complications like our true-beat seconds, which directly come from the marine chronometers from the 18th century. This collection also has our new Longitude model, which we have launched this year. This model has a design that is directly inspired by the first Marine Chronometers by John Arnold. He’s been key in improving the accuracy, the reliability of the movement, and the miniaturisation from clocks to pocket watches. John Arnold was the first to use the term marine chronometer to make watches that were supremely precise. He was the one who invented the word chronometer.”

“The third and last pillar, or collection, is the World Time, which is where the Globetrotter timepiece can be found. This is a timepiece that is related to the explorers of the 18th century. John Arnold was key in providing accurate and reliable marine chronometers to explorers like James Cook, for example. We pay tribute to those journeys of discovering the Pacific or other territories. This is also something we showcased in the book that we published at Watches and Wonders, which we are now sharing with our community and key collectors. We started organising events to speak about the outstanding work and life of John Arnold. This is a great year to celebrate and remind people that Arnold & Son is one of the five oldest watch brands in the world that are still in operation.

For Geneva Watch Days 2024, Arnold and Son have released two different versions of their Perpetual Moon complication. While the styling of the models are similar in terms of case design to previous versions of the brand’s Perpetual Moon timepieces, where it varies is the size offering and also the dial details. Firstly both new variants of the Perpetual Moon timepieces are offered in 38mm for both men and women. Then we get two different dial designs, to cater for different tastes and also budgets.

“Two years ago, we presented the Perpetual Moon in a new size, 38mm. We had really good success, and we also started selling this collection to ladies in the same 38mm size. We found that something was missing in our collection, which was really to capitalise on the 38mm because we already have done the engineering to reduce the size of the movement to fit into this case. We also wanted to have a unisex model that could be worn either by men or women.”

“First, we have an 88-piece limited edition with an aventurine dial. Aventurine is just perfect for the perpetual moon phase complication because it’s like a starry sky, and then you have the moon showing in the middle of this night sky on this dial. We have already had some execution with the aventurine dial in the past, in a really different design. It has always been a popular material, which, in this case, fits nicely with the moon phase complication. The 88 pieces will obviously not be produced all at once. This is a timepiece that will stay in the collection for roughly two and a half years as we gradually manufacture it.”

“The other timepiece we have is a very warm grey colour that we call Cliff Grey, which we actually call the homeland of John Arnold. This warm grey colour fits very nicely with the red gold of the case. This second version comes with a more subtle dial with a sunburst finish, especially when compared to the Aventurine dial. It also creates an entry price point for the perpetual moon collection since it’s around 32,400 Swiss Francs, including tax. This is an excellent price point for a precious metal timepiece with perpetual complication, making it a unique watch. This timepiece, however, will only be limited to 28 pieces. Even though it is a small limited edition release, it will allow us to release other colour combinations in the future.”

What sets Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon phase complication apart from other brands is the fact that it has stars on the moon phase disc that have constellations. The models in the brand’s Perpetual Moon collection come with different constellations, which certainly raises the appeal of the collection and gives it a unique, thought-out look for the moon phase. For these two latest Perpetual Moon models, each one gets two different constellations. The first constellation is the Cassiopeia, which is the asterism in the northern sky named after the vain queen Cassiopeia in Greek mythology. The second constellation is the Ursa Major, also known as the Great Bear. This is the third-largest constellation in the sky, and the largest constellation in the northern hemisphere.

“At Arnold & Son, we have always had the timepieces have a connection with John Arnold and the work he has done. This year, we are celebrating the 260-year anniversary of what we considered the foundation of the brand in 1764. John Arnold’s work was really to help navigation, which was critical in mastering the ocean. This also meant mastering the world more or less at that time. So, astronomy was extremely important for navigation, and we wanted to pay tribute to that.”

“So you have, in fact, two constellations that are hand-painted with Super-LumiNova on the moon phase disc. Why we chose those two constellation is because they are very easily recognisable in the sky, and between those two constellations you have one star growing very strongly, which is the polaris. This is the star that gives the true north, which navigators used at night to find the north. This is the main reason behind the design of these two constellations for the moon phase. We always keep these two constellations across the whole perpetual moon collection.”

Now, if you weren’t aware, you may be wondering why we are interviewing Pascal Béchu for two different watch brands. This is because Arnold & Son and Angelus are essentially sister brands owned by Citizen Watch Company. Because of this, Pascal Béchu is the Managing Director of both Arnold & Son and Angelus.

Angelus was founded in 1891 in Switzerland by the Stolz brothers. The brand quickly gained recognition for its high-quality chronographs and innovative timepeices. One of Angelus’s most iconic creations is the Chronodate timepiece. Introduced in 1942, the Chronodate was the worlds first chronograph timepiece that also featured a date function! This watch not only showcased the brand’s pioneering spirit, but also left a significant mark in the history of horology.

“The Angelus brand dates back to 1891. It is known for being a very innovative brand. Angelus has been making its own movements from the beginning while also supplying movements to other brands. One of the most well-known timepieces from Angelus is the Chronodate from 1942. In 2022, we celebrated the 80th anniversary of this timepiece. On that occasion, we wanted to reintroduce the chronograph into the collection while also using the brand’s modern DNA.”

“So you have a product that is faithful to the original with the peripheral date because that was the first chronograph with this date feature at that time. It also came with a bi-compax design with large sub-counters like on the original model. The original Chronodate model also inspires the font design of the modern models. The modern versions of the Chronodate come with an automatic movement, with modern finishing shown through the case back. The construction of the case is super complex, and it includes 11 different parts combining titanium or carbon composite. We did not use carbon fibre in the case as its not very waterproof. We definitely wanted to create a water-resistant timepiece. This was a timepiece and collection that we launched in 2022.”

For Geneva Watch Days 2024, Angelus has unveiled the latest edition to the Chronodate line with a stunning Magnetic Silver dial that has a “panda” look with the two black sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock. The styling of this Chronodate gives the watch a sporty look, especially with the red accents for the date indicator, chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute counter hand and also the chronograph “start” push button. To further reiterate that this is a steel sports watch, the timepiece also comes with a beautifully designed integrated sports bracelet that has a quick-release function.

Its a timepiece with quite a unique positioning. On the one hand, it’s a chronograph which looks sporty with its rubber strap. However, when you put the titanium bracelet on, it then makes it a sporty timepiece with an integrated bracelet, giving it a luxury look and feel. The timepiece is also so light on the wrist, making it versatile and wearable even outdoors!

Both Arnold & Son and Angelus have the potential to appeal to Australian audiences, even though the two brands bring different niches. Arnold & Son, with its 260-year heritage, will be focused on high-end timepeices with high attention to detail, which will appeal to audiences that prefer history and craftsmanship. The brand’s chronometry legacy will also resonate with the market that appreciates technical watchmaking.

Angelus on the other hand with its more modern approach to reinterpretations of classic timepieces like the Chronodate, will appeal to those that prefer timepieces with a bold, avant-garde design. Angelus with one hand on traditional watchmaking and the other on cutting-edge design will cater to the audience that wants a unique blend of heritage and contemporary watchmaking.

“So we have worked over the last year and a half to have both brands present in the country. It all started with the Sydney Watch Fair, where we had a great opportunity to introduce both brands to the country for the first time. We were super happy with the feedback and the connection we had with the collectors; now, Arnold & Son retails at Fairfax in Sydney, which is a great opportunity as they are a well-known jeweller in the country. The director of Fairfax has a background in high-end watchmaking, and with that, he wanted to bring some interesting high-end brands to the market. We made a strong connection very quickly. This is the first door that opened for Arnold & Son to be present in Australia.”

“We are now also building another partnership with Kennedy in Sydney and possibly other locations in Australia in the future. We think it’s great because both retailers have their own clientele, and to give good exposure to Arnold & Son, you must be among the top premium retailers. I’m confident both retailers will work very well with the support of our partners, who are also the country’s brand representatives.”

“For Angelus, we work with hardy brothers. They have already established themselves with premium locations and beautiful shops. We also believe that the design of the collection should be very strong from the country. Angelus is very popular in the United States and the United Kingdom. In terms of taste, what’s working in those countries can also give Australia good success.”

Pascal Béchu has given us great insight into the behind-the-scenes of Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon collection and Angelus Chronodate timepieces, giving us a deeper appreciation for both timepieces. He has also shown us the timeless craftsmanship of Arnold & Son, and the continued development of an icon for Angelus.

The stories of both brands show us that these watchmakers aren’t just surviving but rather thriving and grabbing the attention of collectors and enthusiasts who prefer history, precision and innovation when it comes to timekeeping.

Perrelet is quite possibly one of the most historically significant brands in the watch industry, yet, it is arguably one of the more underappreciated brands. Now this may seem like a strong statement, but think about this: Abraham-Louis Perrelet, who studied under Abraham-Louis Breguet, was responsible for the automatic winding movement that we all now take for granted, and with roots tracing back to 1777, it’s one of the oldest brands around, albeit via different incarnations over the last 200 years or so.

These days, Perrelet is more known for their Turbine models, unmistakeable when you see them, and while they come from a serious watch-making background, and even today have their own manufacture, they are still a bit of fun on the wrist, something that is part of the Perrelet strategy. When the Watch Advice team was in Geneva last month for Geneva Watch Days, we caught up with Hugo Lesizza who is the Brand Director for Perrelet and took a bit of a deep dive into what makes Perrelet tick…so to speak!

Like many people in the Swiss Watch Industry, Hugo is originally from France and now works in Switzerland, heading up much of the Perrelet operations, which is now part of the Festina Group owned by Spanish entrepreneur, Miguel Rodrigeuz. In his words:

“I’m the brand director for Perrelet, so basically I’m in charge of a bit of everything for the brand, from the design, coordinating all the processes for development with the teams in the manufacturers and I’m also responsible for sales and marketing and helping our partners worldwide to develop the brand.”

“We are very lucky because we are part of a family business but a big group (Talking about Festina). We are an independent watch-making group owned by Miguel Rodriguez, who is a Spanish entrepreneur. He started the business in the 80s with a lifestyle division, and as you know, it was the beginning of the quartz movement, so it was a boom at that time. He was quite successful in spreading the distribution of his brands worldwide and then starting to enter into the luxury segment as a result.”

As part of this acquisition strategy, Festina acquired Perrelet in 2004 and in 2008 bought a company called Soprod, which was a movement Manufacture, which was a sort of a coup for them as this gave Perrelet the ability to make its own movements and be an integrated brand with a vertical manufacturing approach.

“That’s why we say that we are an independent manufacturer because we do have a sister company developing exclusively for us, so we are very lucky for that – it’s a strength of the brand, giving us flexibility for new developments.”

“Perrelet is known especially for the Turbine dating back to 2009, so it’s still contemporary let’s say. People even know the Turbine before knowing Perrelet and its history, that’s why it’s very important for us to insist on the legacy of Perrelet which dates back to 1777 when Abraham-Louis Perrelet, who was Swiss and born in Le Locle, in the Canton of Neuchatel invented the first automatic movement in the industry. So basically we invented the rotor which wound the movement, and as such we keep this legacy with us, and we keep developing the Turbine, innovating with design and new materials.”

This statement here reflects my opening remarks somewhat. Perrelet is an old brand, and the founder, Abraham-Louis Perrelet, all the way back in 1777 devised the automatic movement, albeit for pocket watches at the time. Clearly, these were nowhere near as refined as today, but this invention paved the way for others to develop and refine over the years to what we have today.

Perrelet has changed over the years, but the one thing they are known now for, which Hugo has already touched on, is the Turbine collection. Some people think that the turbine itself acts as a winding mechanism, however, it’s purely aesthetic and a bit of fun, something different for people to have on their wrists. But before we delve into that, our curiosity is piqued a little about where the inspiration comes from, and how does Perrelet go about designing this?

“It’s aesthetic and they are only at spinning very fast because the idea is to create a very eye-catching effect to play with colours, with thematics, that’s why we have a good dynamic in the collection. Basically, the product team in charge took the inspiration for the turbine from the turbines on the jet engine, which was the initial inspiration for the development of the turbine. It took time to develop it because as you know in the watch-making industry you have constraints, which is not easy to handle, and with the turbine, we had to get the balance and spinning just right, even down to developing the ball bearings it spins on!”

“So as soon as you’re moving the wrist, it is spinning very fast, creating this very fluid motion. This is why people ask if it is connected to the moment, or if it is functional. We don’t connect the turbine to the movement like an oscillating weight, as if we did, it will spin very slowly and we would lose this eye-catching effect.”

Once Hugo explains this, it makes sense. The spinning is for effect only, and as such, Perrelet wanted to make sure it spins effortlessly and gives that constant effect, and when doing so, shows off the dial underneath, which are now getting more and more colour, patterns, designs and let’s face it, fun! Another way Perrelet archives this is the material the turbine is made from…

“The turbine is made of aluminium so it’s very light with a counterweight below the turbine. This creates the ease and speed of the movement with the ball-bearing system designed to spin very fast.”

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Now, if you’re thinking, “How hard is it to put a spinning blade on a watch dial?” The answer is, that it isn’t all that simple. Honestly, nothing in watchmaking is simple, and when you start playing around with new mechanisms, new movements, and even new sizes, there are a lot of elements that need to be taken into account. Hugo explains this.

“There are a lot of influences and parameters of course. To be honest, we tested many materials for the turbine. We tried titanium and other metals, but aluminium for us, in the end, seems to be the ideal one because of the lightness. Depending on where you put the counterweight, and what type of material you are using, it will spin the right way or it won’t. If not done exactly right, sometimes it can stop because it can touch certain elements of the dial ring, so it’s very difficult to develop.”

Thankfully, Perrelet has been doing this now for more than 10 years and has refined this quite a lot over the years. This is all done with their in-house manufacture, and as I mentioned, they’ve encountered many challenges around this once they started to play around with the watches, such as new sizes.

“Even the ball bearing is in-house through our sister company and nowadays the challenges are when you are reducing the case size, you have to adapt the whole system. It has been challenging to reduce the watches down to 41mm for gents, and we will soon introduce a new size for ladies, so an even smaller case of 37mm. So it’s always challenging to touch the turbine feature when doing this.”

This brings us to the new pieces that Perrelet introduced this year at Gevena Watch Days – the Ice Blue Titanium 41 and Ice Blue Carbon 44. Having just spent the last hour or so playing around with these pieces and several other recent releases, not to mention some upcoming pieces as well, we were curious as to the thinking behind the new watches.

“So we recently introduced the Carbon 44 with polycarbonate, and the Titanium with a new case size of 41mm and during Geneva Watch Days we have launched the new colour, Ice Blue. It’s very fresh, it’s perfect for summertime, but we don’t want to be mono-product – we don’t want to be focused only on the Turbine that’s why recently, thanks to our Manufacture, we developed a very specific movement: the Lab Peripheral. The Lab Peripheral has a peripheral oscillating weight located at the front of the dial, so it’s both aesthetic and functional. It is also more of a dressy watch – it’s very elegant and designed for people looking for something more conservative, more traditional, because of course, the Turbine is sporty in style and a bit conceptual. So you either like it or not, and that’s why we do offer something completely different.”

Now, Ice Blue dials are not new, many brands have been using them for years on pieces, sometimes to showcase a precious metal, other times as limited editions, and others just because it’s trendy. Hugo explains that their decision to do an Ice Blue dial is more so the latter, they’re not hiding this, and like the ice blue colour, kind of refreshing honesty!

“We are following the trend a bit with the Ice Blue. The thing is, over the years we have been using very classical colours, black or brown you know, and it was time, when we launched the turbine titanium especially, to be sporty and colourful so we wanted to bring to the market something very colourful. We already had six colours in the range, and now with the Ice Blue, we now have seven. I think the Ice Blue is a natural move, proposing pastel colours a bit and we have a new colour in the pipeline for the Turbine Titanium 41 millimetre, which is planned on being released by the end of the year.”

When the new colour is released, the Turbine range will then have eight colours on offer for people to choose from, and if you want more colour in your life, Perrelet has multiple strap choices you can mix and match with the watches.

“You can also keep, for example, the Ice Blue dial, but change the strap and play with the accessories around the watch as well. Interestingly, we will soon have across both 44mm and 41mm sizes the easy clip system so you can switch the straps easily and explore different colours!”

But what about the brand itself? As stated, Perrelet is a brand with a serious history, but now with watches that are less serious in nature, but with serious watchmaking at the core of the piece. This is something that Perrelet leans into, as it is hard to differentiate these days with so many watch brands on the market, and as an independent (so to speak) tackling the larger groups with lots of money is hard. But this is something Perrelet doesn’t shy away from Hugo explains.

“First of all the history of the brand is unique, it has a great legacy, plus the fact that we are an independent Manufacturer, and since 2019, we have developed movements with excellent reliability because the movements we use for the turbine is COSC certified. The value for money for the quality we offer is excellent, and once again, Perrelet is able to offer a disruptive design, totally different from competing brands. Our clients are people who already own Omega, Rolex, Panerai, Zenith, IWC and many other brands you can name, but they’re looking for something fun, and different, but with history, knowledge, and quality of course. Our clientele are people who know about the watch industry, who are collectors let’s say, and looking for something fun!”

Perrelet is a brand that produces about 2,500 pieces a year, which in the grand scheme of watches, is quite small when you consider some brands do limited runs of a single watch at this number. Even with this smaller number, Perrelet is one brand that is happy to go above and beyond for its clients, with Piece Unique’s, small batch numbers with individual designs and even taking an existing model and personalising it to the client’s request.

“As we are a Manufacturer, we do have flexibility so this is definitely something we offer: from unique pieces to specific customers, to small series such as 5 pieces, and watch customisation. It can be on the material itself, so for example, if a client wants the Titanium Turbine 41mm in solid gold, this is something we can do for them – produce a unique piece in a solid gold case.”

“We have specific requests, for example, we recently did a unique turbine carbon 44mm for a client who is a fanatic of the Volkswagen Kombi. He wanted a picture of his Volkswagen Kombi with his number plate on the dial, so we did this. We also included on the crystal of the caseback: “Unique Piece” with his number plate. On top of this, we developed a unique strap with a specific colour and specific stitching to match so it all tied in together. So these are the types of things we are happy to do for clients.”

While Hugo says they are more than happy to do these custom pieces, there are still challenges with certain elements on the watch, like the turbine itself. As he mentioned previously, the materials they use for this impact the way the turbine spins and the desirable aesthetic. But, it’s not impossible…

“As for the Turbine, interestingly, we used to have a Turbine in gold, so it’s possible but it’s more difficult to develop because of the need for lightness of the turbine and the way it spins. Taking this into account, we need to adapt the weight of the counterweight below the blades to find the right balance. So we can offer different materials and different colours, and we offer customization of the dial, the dial ring, and the hands.  Let’s say there are no limits!”

This part of the conversation got us thinking, and it seems that a brand that is happy to do a wide range of custom pieces for clients, may just have a few more fun releases up their sleeves with different colours, designs and materials.

“What we are doing now more and more, as you can see with the existing collection, most of the decoration is on the lower dial just below the turbine and you can only see it when it is spinning. Unfortunately, and I don’t know why, we never played with the turbine itself. However, in the recent limited editions we developed, we have played with Super-LumiNova on the turbine itself, and we are now exploring playing with the turbine itself and not with the under-dial, so you can have details of both levels.”

“Recently this year we released the turbine Hypnotic where we have a spiral with Super-LumiNova – both on the turbine and on the dial, creating a kaleidoscope effect and it was the first time where we explored that. It makes sense you know, to play with the turbine!”

Perrelet is also now starting to play in the world of different case materials, which adds yet another area of innovation for the brand. The latest releases in Carbon and DLC Titanium are examples of this, and from what Hugo says, just the start of this for Perrelet…

“There are new developments we have in mind because over the last 15 years, we’ve been doing only stainless steel with different coatings. However, over the last 2-3 years we have been exploring new materials like polycarbonate, carbon and titanium. What’s in the pipeline? Well, I’m sorry, but it’s a secret so I can’t tell you what we are exploring currently or in the future! (said with a cheeky laugh) but definitely we want to come out with more materials, materials that will play with the light, so yes this is definitely something we have in the pipeline!”

But Hugo does give us some insight into where Perrelet is heading.

“The next challenge will be ladies’ watches because nowadays, we are very masculine. We used to have more ladies’ watches in the past, especially with the emblematic Diamond Flower collection based on one of the signatures of the brands – the double rotor movement which was patented in 1995. Basically, you have the oscillating weight at the back connected to a rotor at the front and they are connected between themselves, meaning they are spinning at the same time. It’s both functional and aesthetic all the same time.”

“For ladies, we are looking at more jewellery timepieces than pure timepieces, such as an MLP diamond setting, so it’s an excellent alternative to key brands in the Ladies’ segment like Chopard, Bvlgari, Dior etc. We want to be back with more pieces like this in the future, and potentially will be new and new collection additions for 2025”

It seems that Perrelet is moving in the right direction, but we are curious to learn a little more about where the brand sits in Australia, and how we as a market perform against our global counterparts.

“So historically the brand is very strong in Eastern Europe. It used to be strong in Russia, but now that’s difficult because of the situation with Ukraine of course. We’re very strong in the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia, and Belgium because the brand has been present in these countries for decades. We’re also very strong in Mexico. We do a limited edition for Mexico each year, it is very responsive to the more eye-catching pieces, in addition, we have a strong presence with retailers, and department stores, plus we participate in the key watch fairs over there, so this is a great market!”

“We have a good presence in the US and in the Caribbean, and since last year, we have been developing a lot of the Middle East market which is becoming stronger and stronger for us. Next year the challenge is to widen Asia and Oceania including Australia. Australia for us is a new territory thanks to the new partner we have in HBC milestone. (Who put on the Sydney International Watch Fair in Sydney’s Double Bay late last year). They’re very active and very dynamic in finding ways to promote the brands, so Australia has a large potential definitely. But for us, the brand is still new there and we have to work on brand awareness, but we have some good projects for Australia and we have good expectations!”

The independent watch scene here is definitely picking up, and brands like Perrelet will only help to drive the market, its diversity and its maturity. As the saying goes, the rising tide lifts all boats, and this is true in the watch industry and here in Australia. The more brands that can be introduced and cater for different tastes, the better. With Perrelet, can we see an Australian edition coming out? Maybe…

If you want to explore more from Perrelet, go to Perrelet.com

During this year’s Geneva Watch Days, the team from Watch Advice had the chance to sit down with the Product Manager from Speake Marin to talk about the brand, but more specifically on the latest masterpiece that’s been created in the the Ripples Skeleton.

But, before we dive into the interview, who is Speake Marine? And what do they bring to the world of horology?

Speake Marin is quite a young brand, established in 2002 by British watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin. This is an independent brand that blends traditional watchmaking craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics. Being an independent brand is a key feature for Speake Marin, as it gives them a lot of creative freedom when it comes to their designs.

What sets Speake Marin apart in the world of luxury timepieces are quite a few elements in which the brand specialises. Firstly, we get the unique case design, which has become quite iconic and is a hallmark of Speake-Marin watches. The Piccadilly case, which has been inspired by traditional English pocket watch designs, is a core element of the Ripples collection as well.

Another aspect of Speake Marin is the horological art of their watchmaking. The brand is known for its high level of artistry and craftsmanship, from the hand-finishing techniques to the open and skeletonised dials. The beauty of mechanical watchmaking is in fine hands with Speake Marin!

“An encounter between English daring and Swiss expertise, the Maison demonstrates a rich creative vein that celebrates the successful merging of design and Haute Horlogerie. The brand’s watchmaking reputation – which, 20 years after its launch, remains as strong as ever – began with the distinctive Piccadilly case featuring a sophisticated balance between its robust lugs and its slim circular shape.“

As mentioned earlier, Speake Marin is an independent brand. This means that when compared to many of the major commercial luxury brands, they can stand out in a few ways. Firstly, independence allows for greater creative freedom, with artistic designs, unique cases and almost in a way “less” influence on their overall final product. The brand truly does create eye-watering timepieces! They have also brought back traditional craftmanship back on the table, even though they have modernised this with a contemporary twist on the techniques. One element of this traditional watch design is the Breguet hands, which can be seen on some of the brand’s timepieces.

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^{An entrepreneur and watch enthusiast, Christelle Rosnoblet has been the CEO of Speake Marin since 2012, steering the ship to new horizons!}

Another aspect of independent watchmaking is the limited production to the watches. Compared to the more commercial brands, Speake Marin produces only a certain amount of timepieces per year, which gives more exclusivity to the timepieces created. As if the designs weren’t exclusive enough!

“Speake Marin is committed to create “Belle Horlogerie” – Beautiful timepieces – in the respect of Swiss fine watchmaking heritage.
All its collections are proposed in Limited editions only.
All its collections are nestled In-house/or Exceptional Movements.
All Speake Marin creations are Exclusive to Speake Marin.“

The brand’s Ripples collection has a relatively short history, as it was only released in 2022. However, this doesn’t mean that the collection isn’t able to hold up to the brand’s other noteworthy models. In fact, within the last two years, the Ripples collection has gained traction due to its unique cushion-shaped case design, its comfortability with dual micro-adjustment bracelet and the exceptional finishing found throughout the timepiece.

Related Reading: GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Speake Marin Introduces All New Ripples Skeleton (Live Pics)

With the release of the Ripples Skeleton this year, the collection has certainly now cemented its place as an icon of Speake Marin. The watch brings forth everything we expect from an independent watchmaker, plus more! It’s also refreshing to see that Speake Marin has listened to the feedback of the fanbase and clientele to adjust where necessary to make the watches more comfortable to wear.

We sat down with Julien Ehrismann to go through this latest masterpiece of horology from Speake Marin and discuss all things related to its inception and design!

“So my name is Julien…I work as the product manager, overseeing everything from design to engineering. I am not a watchmaker; I used to travel a lot to meet collectors, to meet retailers, to get their feedback as well as their passion for watches. You don’t get into this industry out of nowhere! It’s always good to meet people to discuss, and then you get a certain interpretation of watches, which is also the interpretation of Christelle Rosnoblet, who has a strong input on the design. It’s been five years and it’s been fun, we are moving forward, we are going into the right direction”

It’s certainly not easy creating a skeleton watch. Many brands do shy away from this due to complexity and also being able to execute it properly. Speake Marin is no stranger to creating skeleton watches, however, with some of the other collections from the brand already featuring skeleton dial timepieces. While each of the existing collections features at least one skeletonised model, the brand also has dedicated skeleton collections such as Openworked and the brand’s more exclusive Haute Horologerie collection. It’s a great way to showcase the workmanship of a watch. Because it’s a skeleton, you can’t hide a lot. It’s almost like going naked for a watch!

“Yes, this is true; you can see all the features of the watch, so that is important. It’s a good offering; the skeleton is a good way to be transparent; okay, this way, you can see all the components. You can see that the balance wheel is made from Le Cercle des Horlogers, and we are not ashamed of that! It’s good; you have a direct second (as he points to the seconds sub-dial at 1 o’clock), and you can see it is placed right next to the escapement; the micro-rotor can be seen as well (9 o’clock on the dial), which is specific to this calibre. It’s not like an adjusted calibre for Speake Marin. It’s a calibre that is brand new and created specifically for Speake Marin and the Ripples Skeleton. If we take the Reverso on your wrist (referencing the Reverso on Chamath’s wrist) it can be a nightmare to skeletonise. Would it become reliable? If it doesn’t work properly, what’s the use of the micro-rotor? That was a big trial for us when creating the Ripples Skeleton.”

One thing that was certainly noticeable from the Ripples Skeleton is that this is one of those timepieces that just by looking at it from photos you don’t get to see the watch to its full glory. In other words, photos don’t do the watch justice. This is because one of the standout features of the Ripples Skeleton, besides being a skeletonised version of the Ripple watch, is that it has an incredible shine! Just the way the light hits some of the facets and the way they shine felt like Speake Marin spent a substantial amount of work into the baseplate and the movement.

“Actually when we started, we were co-developing the movement next to the design. This is actually the best way to do a skeleton; you develop it based on the design you would expect. For the Ripples Skeleton its a contemporary design of the skeleton dial. We still have to retain the core shape of the Ripples timepiece. The bridges on the dial that hold the movement are all horizontal, much like the Ripple’s waves, which are also horizontal. We kept the ripples as well on the small seconds. So, the identity is still there. It was extremely complicated to do this in small seconds. The indices are 0.10mm, so good luck! Haha”

Keeping the small seconds is vital to most timepieces. However, in the case of the skeleton watch this can be especially tricky as readability is a huge factor. Do you have a central seconds hand like a normal three-hander or do you have a dedicated subdial, and in doing so do you then skeletonise it as well to suit the rest of the dial. This is sometimes why we see brands opt not to show the constant seconds on skeletonised dials, as it can be tricky to implement. With the Ripples Skeleton, Speake Marin has been able to integrate a dedicated seconds subdial without losing the essence of the watch, and in a way add to the overall aesthetic of the timepiece with the exceptional finishing on the subdial.

“It’s true; it’s usually lost within the other features because the skeleton dial drowns it out. But on the Ripples Skeleton, the seconds dial is one of the main focus points. It actually makes sense to do it this way. A skeleton watch is a headache. You question every curve, and you wonder, why did we start this? In regards to the movement, we could’ve gone thinner than 3.25mm. Still, after a certain point, you have to respect the size and technicality of the 3.25mm movement size. We also included the small seconds, which are part of the movement as the bridges hold the gear train. If we build the seconds on the mainplate, however, getting a thinner movement on this calibre could be possible. However, this may not be something we will do, as you can always go thinner, thinner, and thinner all the time, but it’s unnecessary.”

Creating ultra-thin watches comes with its own set of challenges and complexities. Especially since you want to skeletonise the dial and show all the watch’s components, while it can be a technical marvel to create ultra-thin watches, you also need to create watches that are wearable and also versatile. Unless it’s a limited-edition model of only a handful of timepieces, it needs to have a degree of comfortable wearability and versatility that will still cater to a large audience. The lower you go in a watch’s thickness, the more you also lose. So it’s all about finding the balance of creating a thin timepiece while still keeping the essence of what makes the watch great and highly desired intact.

“Yes, if a watch is not comfortable and is not easy to use, it can be a headache and usually will end up in the safe. It’s sad because we believe watches have to be worn. Because wearing your watch is enjoying your watch. You have to find the right line of being too thin. If you go thinner as well, the crown will not be screwed down, so you have to compromise a lot to go thinner. For example, we checked with three different crown makers, who said that the thickness is the minimum we can go (3.25mm). Any thinner and you should remove the screw-down crown. You should not question what you would do with the watch because you also have the integrated bracelet and water depth rating.”

People will consider things like water resistance important, especially for a watch to have around 10ATM (100 metres). However, 50m with a screw-down crown is still very wearable for swimming in a pool. For a dip in the pool, this will do the job fine!

“We were questioning the crown’s design as it is lower on the case. It is easy to handle, and the design proportions are slightly minimal. When you pull the crown, it comes out of the guards by around 0.10mm. It’s nothing! You don’t even feel it. It also has a secure, winding feel. You get full power with 50 complete rotations.”

For the very first time, Speake Marin is using 904L steel as the case material for a Ripple’s timepiece. Previously, the brand used 316L steel, which is the standard steel used throughout traditional watchmaking.  Using 904L steel offers a much higher percentage of nickel, chromium, and copper, increasing the material’s resistance to corrosion and acids. The higher chromium content in 904L steel means that when it’s polished, it will shine a lot brighter! Perfect for the polish-finished bevelled edges on the bezel of the case, which, when paired next to the brushed finish surfaces, allows the watch to stand out beautifully.

“It’s only steel being used through the Ripples Skeleton, but we have increased the quality of steel used for this version, which is 904 steel. This is good because 904 steel is brighter. However, it is slightly harder to work with. So that’s the difficulty, but it’s also more resistant, which is useful once you start wearing it. It’s hard to say the hours worked to achieve this level of finish. It certainly does take a lot of time, but it is also extremely difficult because you have a certain thickness of the bevel, usually around 0.45mm, so that the case has its defined angle shapes.“

“If you push it too hard when bevelling, you end up removing a lot of material that you obviously can’t get back. Some bridges are made of German silver because they are more resistant, so to be honest, it was extremely complicated to reach all these details. But we did it. We have a good team working on this model. I met them every week until we had the finished product. We first had the theory, which is the concept design. Then comes the practicality, which is creating the product, which is very tricky as it is the most challenging part.“

Speake Marin has used an ultra-high frequency movement named SMA07, which beats at a rate of 5Hz (36,000 VpH). As we know, the Ripples Skeleton has reduced its overall thickness from 9.20mm to 6.30mm. This significant reduction of almost 30% is down to the new generation SMA07 calibre movement, which is only 3.25mm thick. Creating an automatic movement that beats at 5Hz in such a thin size is an achievement in itself. The movement, as stated earlier, is made alongside Le Cercle des Horlogers, who were able to design the movement in a way such that all the core elements (micro-rotor, balance wheel, small seconds, etc.) are retained for view, and the thickness of the movement can be kept to as minimal as possible.

Balancing the power reserve with a high-frequency movement can also be quite tricky. Normally, as the high-frequency drains energy faster, the movement’s power reserve can be hindered. However, Speake Marin was able to find the balance by offering 52 hours of operating time.

“For a movement to have 5Hz is quite interesting. When you wear the watch and it takes a shock, for example, it will only affect the balance wheel one way. With a higher frequency, you will be less affected when the watch comes across small shocks. In other words, a 1Hz movement is more affected compared to a movement with 5Hz. 5Hz is also quite interesting to keep track of time. The seconds will also move much smoother. For the Ripples Skeleton, it is also direct seconds. What does this mean? The seconds sub-dial is placed right after the escapement, so it’s always under tension. If it’s in the centre like a traditional timepiece, you have the gear space that will affect that. With the Ripples Skeleton, you have direct energy transfer. Many big brands do that; I’m a big fan of brands that do that, for example, Grubel Foresey; I love how they do it; they build their movement like that. They have the small seconds near the escapement. I love many brands that do this, which is also the issue!”

“With regard to the power reserve, we are sometimes limited in space. In this case, we have a minimum of 52 hours of power reserve. Based on calculations, it’s 60 hours. We tend to always have more than what’s stated. It was a big question. Initially, we wanted more. Afterwards, you have to compromise. 52-60 hours is comfortable for operating. 5hz consumes a lot of energy!”

One certain aspect of the movement design that stood out was the mainspring barrel. When you wind the watch, you can actually see the mainspring barrel turn. This is the whole point of skeletonised movements: to see the timepiece’s inner workings in action. However, with the Ripples Skeleton, Speake Marin has done a wonderful job in how they display the mainspring barrel. Other brands, without naming names, simply just whack the barrel on the movement or have a dedicated section for the barrel. While this can have its own aesthetic purposes, it seems like the attention is drawn away from the skeletonised movement, and your eye is immediately drawn to the barrel upon first look. What Speak Marin has done well here is that they have implemented the mainspring barrel as one with the architecture of the skeletonised dial.

“It’s not completely open. While the top of the barrel is open, the main bridge and different arms hold it. You don’t see it fully, as it blends with the rest of the skeletonised framework. What is interesting in terms of the design of the watch, as you said, is the construction of the dial is really around the centre. It’s designed in a way that when you go clockwise around the watch, there is always a different element. From the small seconds at 1 o’clock, the power reserve barrel between 4 and 5 o’clock to the micro-rotor at 9 o’clock and finally, the balance wheel at 12 o’clock!“

“I think this design is good. Because sometimes, when the skeletonised watch is “too skeleton”, you can see wrist hairs and whatnot, and some people can be bothered by this. With this Ripples Skeleton, you can show everything, with having some free space as well.”

What Speake Marin has done well in regard to their watch designs, including the Ripples collection, is listen to the feedback of the watch community and Speake Marin enthusiasts. The brand has gone and talked with different collectors to get their opinions on the watches. Take the Ripples collection for example, the small adjustment of the bracelet is a huge win in terms of wearability. Rarely do you see a design where you get micro-adjustments on both sides of the bracelet, which certainly allows for finer adjustments and better fit every day. It almost negates the feeling of a watch not fitting properly because you can still remove the desired number of links and then have the micro-adjustment do the rest.

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^{With the double micro-adjustment available on the Ripples Skeleton, the watch fits with ease on the wrist, providing comfortable wear on the wrist.}

“We try when we start with watches actually to get designs that’s useful and easy to wear. If you talk to the collectors, they say that I love micro-adjustment, so why don’t you do half-links etc? They think it’s a simple solution but it’s not always the case. The Ripples Skeleton is comfortable to wear. Your wrist can expand due to different temperatures, which means sometimes there can be a minor difference in your wrist size, and everybody is different. The Ripples Skeleton has a 2mm adjustment, which isn’t big; however, it’s big enough to make a difference.”

“It’s 2mm on both sides of the bracelet too, which makes 4mm of total micro-adjustment. We try to adjust that as much as possible so you can get a better fit. That was the feedback from the community when we introduced the first Ripples. We were given feedback that people loved the watch, were wearing it, but it was very tight on the wrist. They were asking for a half-link, and while this is good, this adjustment won’t fit all the wrists. By offering 2mm micro-adjustment on both sides, we can cater to a broader audience.”

“One retailer in Vienna told me you don’t look at the watch with your eyes, you look at it with your hands. This is correct because you put it on your wrist and see how it feels. Some were also saying that the inner links of the bracelet were a bit sharp, because of the satin finish, which will give a very angled part of the link, so we listened to the feedback and smoothed it out! This way the watch can sit on the hand properly. All of this is once again done to satisfy the comfortability.”

Continuing with the design aspect of the Ripples Skeleton, another immediately noticeable feature of the watch is the brand’s signature hand-flame-blued hour/minute hands, with the hour hand having a heart-shaped tip. This hand design is quite consistent throughout Speake Marin’s watch collections. The Ripple collection features solely this hand design, with the hands being rhodium plated to match the hour indices. The fact that Speake Marin decided to use blued hands is the perfect choice here.

One aspect of skeletonised watches that brands sometimes forget is that it’s still a timepiece at the end of the day. You still need to be able to read the time in one form or another. When you have the hand’s colour matching with the skeleton architecture of the movement, it simply blends in too much and reading the time at first glance becomes harder than it should be. If Speake Marin were to use rhodium-plated hands, they, too, would have fallen into this trap.

“In regards to the hands, as you can see, they are a beautiful blue, but originally, we were going to do them rhodium-plated, like completely grey in colour. Actually, it’s an internal fight because of its conceptual nature. You know, the point of the skeleton is to dive into the movement, not to have the hands overshadow this. Or you go for the blue steeled hands, which is quite a traditional design for Speake Marin. It’s a balance between aesthetics and function! It’s still a watch, at the end of the day, so you need to be able to tell the time clearly, too! Christelle Rosnoblet actually said we could do two prototypes, one with grey hands and one with blue hands. We tried both and decided which one was better, so there was no discussion afterwards, hahaha. It’s good to test the different ideas!“

With the Ripples Skeleton is cementing the collection’s place in Speake Marin history, and being a show-stopper at Genena Watch Days 2024, we can now, in a way, look to the future to see what else the brand can bring to the table. Speake Marin has tested the waters in creating a successful skeleton watch with an extra thin movement, whilst also being loved by enthusiasts and collectors. It’s possible to see the brand adding in other complications such as moon-phase, however, with the other Ripples models featuring a date window at 6 o’clock, this may be the next evolution of the Ripples Skeleton. Another possibility may be a material change, however, the Ripples collection is consistent in staying with steel, so we would more than likely see the non-skeleton Ripple models change first. A more probable change could certainly be a colour change to the skeleton framework of the movement!

“The moon phase is a complication that is quite traditional, so would it fit in a contemporary interpretation of watchmaking like the Ripples Skeleton? Honestly, it’s hard to say. A material change is certainly possible!”

“As I mentioned before, the movement is 3.25mm thin. However, we can possibly push it to 2.5mm, which is a marvellous playground as you can do so many things around it. Our goal is to always have the watch under 10 mm in thickness, even with complications, so that comfort is retained, especially when you have high-end complications.”

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^{The watch and movements are manufactured and assembled in the brand’s “Cercle des Horlogers” workshop. The engineers and watchmakers here will design and execute any future versions of Ripples Skeleton!}

“In this industry, shrinking the timepiece’s thickness is an incredible challenge, as there is more work required, which also means more costs involved.”

“In saying that, I guess if we don’t aim to do things like this, what’s the point of being an independent brand? We are lucky that Christelle Rosnoblet is right here, and she is open to trying things. She’s not restrictive, which is a good thing, because you have so many different things that have been done in the watch industry for centuries. So the question is, what is adaptive for you, what can be done for you and what identifies your brand? It’s always something you think about. Working in the watch industry is a passion. If you don’t like it, you cannot stand it! You have to be crazy to love watches. When you do it for love, it’s rewarding!”

The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton is one of the timepieces for the best release of Geneva Watch Days 2024. As mentioned previously, initially, when the Watch Advice team saw the timepiece, they were excited by how well-designed and executed the skeleton dial was. However, this is a watch you need to see in person. The finishing of the movement and the overall watch just cannot be captured through images or press photos. So, when we saw the watch in person, we were delighted by how beautifully executed the timepiece was. It’s not just a timepiece with aesthetics. It’s a watch where form and functionality combine to deliver a total package.

“Haha, thank you, but you have big competition with the other releases on show! The idea for the Ripples Skeleton was to really push the reflection on the watch. Because a watch that doesn’t play with light is a bit boring. The more you wear the watch, the better you appreciate it! You have many details, such as the bridges. The sides have been sandblasted, which means that they will absorb the light. Then you get satin finishes on the watch, which will reflect the light. This mix is what makes it dance with light!”

As our conversation with Julien Ehrismann drew to a close, it became so much clearer just how much passion and great attention to detail go into creating a watch like the Ripples Skeleton. It was certainly our pleasure learning and gaining a deeper understanding of the intricate details, such as the artistic design, and the more complex challenges of creating not only a skeletonised timepiece but also an extra-thin movement! It’s safe to say we left with a deeper appreciation for Speake Marin and what they bring to the table in the world of independent watchmaking!

Geneva Watch Days 2024 has continued to solidify its position as an exciting watch fair exhibiting all the independent brands in the world of horology. Unlike Watches and Wonders, Geneva Watch Days has a more “decentralised” approach, allowing watch brands to showcase their novelties and latest creations for the year across a variety of luxury hotels, boutiques, and venues throughout Geneva. This year’s Geneva Watch Days was held from August 29th to September 2nd. It featured several independent brands and fostered a more intimate connection between the watchmakers and the attendees.

The watches on display were diverse, featuring refined complications and bold artistic designs, showcasing the brands’ creativity and craftmanship. The independent brands on display continued to innovate and make waves in the world of horology, further reinforcing that Geneva Watch Days is the ideal event for these brands to shine.

At Watch Advice, our staff was early anticipating the event to see what the brands would unveil and ultimately get a hands-on feel for the latest releases. If you had followed our social media, the Watch Advice staff would have given an up-close view of the brands on show and a more detailed view of their individual pieces.

Related Reading: Geneva Watch Days Watches

In this article, each team member at Watch Advice has chosen their top two picks from Geneva Watch Days 2024. These picks showcase not only the unique tastes of each team member but also the variety of designs and styles seen throughout this year’s exhibition. Narrowing it down to only two watches each was certainly hard, as there were countless brands that unveiled some incredible timepeices, showing the best of not only horology but also haute horology! Join us as we celebrate these creations from another memorable Geneva Watch Days 2024.

Chamath’s Picks

Perrelet Turbine Ice Blue

Perrelet has been making its iconic TURBINE watch since 2009, and it has become a global hit. The watch’s design takes inspiration from the world of aviation, particularly Jet Engine Turbines (hence the name TURBINE). The watch has a double rotor system, which allows the blades on the dial side to spin freely. This front rotor, however, doesn’t add to the watch’s power reserve.

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My first pick for Geneva Watch Days is Perrelet’s latest version of their TURBINE timepiece. The model was presented in two variations: one in a 44mm carbon case and the second in a 41mm Black DLC Titanium case. While the two models share the same TURBINE DNA, they are two very different models. Personally, I liked the TURBINE carbon, as you can see more of the ICE blue on the dial hour track and underneath the turbine.

Perrelet has used polycarbonate and carbon fibre in the case construction, which ensures that the watch’s strength is greatly increased while its weight is also reduced. When I tried on the TURBINE Carbon Ice Blue, I could feel the difference in wearability and feel compared to its Black DLC Titanium counterpart.

Related Reading: GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Perrelet Unveils Two New Turbine Ice Blue Timepieces (Live Pics)

Mauron Musy Architect

One of my favourite picks from this year’s Geneva Watch Days is Mauron Musy’s latest project, the “Architect”. This timepiece is unique for quite a few reasons. Firstly, the unique case design, which has been done for a specific purpose, to allow for a no-gasket design. You heard that right! If you didn’t know, Mauron Musy has invented a gasket-free watch using their nO-Ring^(TM) technology which is developed entirely in-house. To put it simply, the impressive case design is made of different parts interlocking together to achieve water resistance.

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Another reason I liked this timepiece is the skeletonised dial. The skeleton design, which was created in collaboration with the talented Arturo Tedeschi, is quite unique and was developed using computer programs. The watchmakers then put this intricate design into production. I can see this being quite a nightmare, as there are so many different angles and shapes involved!

The timepiece comes with a 44mm case made from grade 5 titanium. The case also measures 13mm and features 36 components interlocked together to hold the watch’s water resistance in place!

Sam’s Picks

L’Epee 1839 X MB&F ALBATROSS

My favourite pick for Geneva Watch Days isn’t actually a watch. In fact, it’s a masterpiece in mechanical engineering. The ALBATROSS, a joint creation between the famed clockmaker L’Epee and iconic watchmaker MB&F, is a clock that is a marvel of mechanical clockmaking.

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This is the 15tch creation between L’Epee and MB&F. The duo has created some incredible pieces in the past, but I think this trumps everything. The ALBATROSS measures 60cm x 60cm x 35cm wide and is made up of 1520 components. The beauty of this clock is that it isn’t there just to sit and look pretty. The ALBATROSS has two separate movements that engage every hour (or on command) to chime out the time and automate the propellers.

The movement towards the front end of the airship powers the chimes, which ring for the hour and half hour increments. The movement at the back end powers the automation, in which every single propellor on the ALBATROSS comes to life and starts spinning. This machine is the first of its kind in the world, whereby we get both these features happening at once every hour! This is by far the coolest thing I’ve seen at a watch fair to date!

Related Reading: L’Epee Joins With MB&F To Create ALBATROSS!

Breitling Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary Perpetual Calendar

My second pick for Geneva Watch Days 2024 has to be Breitling’s newest release, the Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary. This is the first time the brand is featuring a perpetual calendar complication in any of their watches. This Premier model was released alongside two other timepeices, the Navitimer Perpetual Calendar and the Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar. All three releases are part of the Breitling’s 140th anniversary.

It was a hard pick between the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar and this Premier B19 Perpetual Calendar, as the Navitimer is one of the favourite models, having already owned one in the past. However, the design, the proportions, and the dial aesthetics of the Premier B19 Datora 140th Anniversary are just too hard to pass up.

I love the black tachymeter scale, which is juxtaposed by the 18k red gold minute track and then the black dial. The interplay between the colours is what makes the watch stand out from some distance, but when you take a closer look, the details of the dial are even more impressive. I think Breitling has done an amazing job on this timepiece, and can see this model selling out quite quickly!

Matt’s Picks

Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton

So for my first pick, I’m going with the Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton. Pictures don’t do this watch justice at all, and once you get it on your wrist, it’s pure unadulterated joy! I don’t say that about many pieces, but Cristelle Rosnoblet and the team at Speake Marin have done a stellar job with the piece. they haven’t just taken their classic Ripples design with the Piccadilly case and skeletonised it, they completely re-designed the watch from scratch to execute the vision.

What I love is they slimmed the piece down by 30% – that’s right, 30% and when the watch to start with was only just over 9mm thick to start with, getting it down to a little over 6mm is crazy. Not only this, they’ve taken the key design elements of the Ripples – the small seconds at 1:30, the horizontal gadroon style lines and incorporated this into the skeletonised dial so well. The lines become the bridges, the small seconds is the only element not skeletonised to draw your eye to it, and then making the balance at 12 o’clock, barrel at 4:30, and micro-rotor at 9 o’clock key features of the dial and movement.

On the wrist, it also looks and wears great. At 40.3mm in size, and as mentioned, only 6.3mm thick and now made from 904L steel, this is a pure joy to wear and is an everyday piece. Added to this, Speake Marin has included a small micro-adjust on the butterfly clasp on each side, meaning you can adjust on the fly on those hotter or cooler days to get the size accurate on the wrist. It’s also 50m water-resistant with a screw-down crown, so yes, you can swim with it as well!

Related Reading: GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Speake Marin Introduces All New Ripples Skeleton (Live Pics)

De Bethune DB28 XS Steel Wheels

My next pick is the De Bethune DB28 XS Steel Wheels. De Bethune has got a bit of a cult following, and not all that common in Australia, but I feel that they will start to get more traction as the indie scene continues to grow. So being able to get my hands on the new pieces was a pleasure and for me, the first time I’ve been able to get hands on with the Steel Wheels. It did not disappoint!

The hinged lugs is the first thing that you notice and is completely unique to De Bethune. It allows the watch to sit on the wrist and hug it as the springs allow the lugs to pivot and contour to the wrist perfectly. On this version, the rubber strap is also pretty comfortable, and mould to the wrist nicely, so it’s a great wearing piece, and light too. Made from grade 5 Titanium, you barely feel it on, so it’s a perfect daily companion.

De Bethune has made the new DB28 XS Steel Wheels more compact, which adds to wearability. At just under 39mm and a mere 8mm thick, it’s the perfect size on the wrist, and with the unique design elements of the dial, it stands out from others on the market. I love an open-worked dial, and with the blue-fired hands on the Steel Wheels combined with the Star Trek-like insignia on the dial, it’s playful but in a serious horological way! Oh, and it’s manual winding with a massive 6 days’ worth of power, so you’re not constantly hailing to wind it every couple of days. Another tick for me!

Related Reading: GENEVA WATCH DAYS: De Bethune’s DB28 Goes XS x2 For Geneva Watch Days (Live Pics)

Mario’s Picks

Geneva Watch Days, as always, is an incredible celebration of watchmaking. In my opinion, many of the releases this year have been on par with – and in some instances, even better than – other, more mainstream watch fairs. For my best picks, I’m not too sure if anyone who has read my stuff will really be surprised since these two watches are exactly what you’d expect them to be: weird but brilliant!

Daniel Roth – Tourbillon Souscription

I mean, what else? If you read Matt’s article about my Ultimate Three-Watch Collection, you’d know that the Daniel Roth C187 is on my all-time favourite watch list. I’ve said on innumerable occasions that if I were to own one, that would be the end of my watchmaking journey.

While not a spitting image of the C187, the Tourbillon Souscription is a detailed and faithful remake of the original: The one-minute tourbillon with three hands; the unique stepped case in yellow gold; and a beautiful champagne dial to boot. Produced by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, I do not doubt that the reputable workshop can match the fine craftsmanship of the original Daniel Roth references. But of course, the only way to know for sure is to get my hands on one…

Konstantin Chaykin – ThinKing

Imagine this: You’re Bulgari in 2022, and you just made the thinnest watch in the world. But then, Richard Mille came out of nowhere in the same year and stole the world record. You worked hard for two years, debuting an all-new watch that smashes Richard Mille’s – good on you!

But then, it happens again. Your record is gone after just four months! Not from Richard Mille, but by way of an independent genius from Russia. While this is undoubtedly a series of unfortunate events for Bulgari, the grin on Konstantin Chaykin’s face right now must be as big as the smile on his latest invention, the ThinKing.

With a smiling face reminiscent of his WristMons collection, this prototype has seemingly sailed past the ambitions of multimillion-dollar brands to plant itself firmly as the world’s thinnest wristwatch. Yes, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra is still the world’s thinnest Chronometer. Still, at the end of the day, it’s so awesome to see an independent watchmaker taking centre stage – seemingly out of nowhere!

Related Reading: GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing About Breaking a World Record! (Live Pics)

It has been almost a decade since MB&F started co-creating their mesmerising machines with other manufacturers. During this period, the brand has created 20 mechanical creations by collaborating with brands such as Reuge (the “MusicMachine” music boxes), Caran d’Ache (the Astrograph pen) and Loupe System (Project LpX). MB&F’s most memorable collaboration (for me, at least anyway!) has been with L’Epee 1839, a master of table clocks.

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^{MBandF x L’Epee Co-Creation – All new ALBATROSS}

This latest creation by MB&F is in collaboration with L’Epee, marking their 15th masterpiece with the brand. This new ‘machine’, the ALBATROSS, is stated to be their most technically audacious clock, and one quick look at it is all you need to know that this is undoubtedly the case. The ALBATROSS has an incredible 1520 components. This unbelievable machine features a striking hour function, in which it can chime out both the specific hours on the hour and a single strike on the half-hour. The ALBATROSS is also able to do this on command! As the chimes are being executed, an automation composed of 16 pairs of propellers on the ALBATROSS will also launch into action.

The ALBATROSS is the brainchild of designer Eric Meyer, who took inspiration from the “Albatross” airship in Jules Verne’s novel Robur the Conqueror. The similarities can undoubtedly be seen in the above image. However, the general inspiration behind this mechanical masterpiece was also taken from the rockets and hot air balloons imagined by the French author. The different works of Jules Verne have already inspired many of MB&F’s creations, which include the Legacy Machines collections and, more specifically, as the brand states, “a series of Pièces Uniques based on the LM Split Escapement, engraved by Master Engraver Eddy Jaquet.”

^{MBandF x L’Epee Co-Creation – Video showcasing the ALBATROSS in action!}

The ALBATROSS is mechanical art in its purest form, with the execution and detailed finishing that MB&F and L’Epee are known for. This creation is the centrepiece in any room, and your attention is immediately drawn to it for its mechanical complexity and aesthetic beauty. With a total of 1520 components, the ALBATROSS weighs in at 17kg, is 60cm long, 60cm high, and 35cm wide. Check out the above video to see the ALBATROSS in action as the clock chimes the hours and prepares for take-off, with the 32 propellers coming to life by spinning for approximately 7 seconds.

How Does The ALBATROSS Work?

Inside the ALBATROSS are two movements and two winding systems located on either end of the aircraft. One movement powers the time along with the chiming mechanism for the striking hour, powered by two separate barrels. The opposite movement provides the energy for the propellers, which are powered by a single barrel.

Both movements are manually wound, with the one in the front of the ALBATROSS powering the time and chime. To power this movement, turn clockwise to wind the striking hour and anti-clockwise for the time. The movement at the back of the airship powers the automation; you need to wind the propellers to power the movement. The power reserve of the time movement is a staggering eight days, regardless of whether the chiming function is turned on or off. The power reserve for the automation movement is approximately one day.

As mentioned previously, thanks to the ALBATROSS having two separate movements, it’s possible to have the chime and propellers work independently. This can be done through two “on demand” buttons, which are found on the side of the airship opposite the time barrels., By pressing the button, the chime for the striking hour can be sounded out whenever the user wishes. The ALBATROSS also comes with fail-safe features so that any unauthorised manipulation of the propellers won’t cause any damage to them or the movements.

While the chiming of the striking hours is certainly a pleasant feature, for me, the real beauty of the timepiece is seeing the mechanical movement of the propellers. MB&F states, “A closer look at the propellers reveals that they work in pairs, turning together to give the impression that they are going faster. They turn at a speed of 7 seconds for half a turn, or 14 seconds per turn, so that they always remain visible and don’t create any wind. Arnaud Nicolas, CEO of L’Epée, had some fun working on this: “We had to make several attempts to find the correct power and speed for the propellers as our initial experiments caused chaos in the workshop: it was like a helicopter ready for take-off!”The propellers on the left side of the spaceship turn one way, while those on the right side go the other way, as if the ship really was going to take off. Another detail to note is that when the hour strikes, the propellers operate instantaneously, attesting to the attention to detail that has gone into the Albatross’ creation.”

MB&F and L’Epee have ensured the ALBATROSS resembles the aircraft design it was inspired by. This can be seen from the miniature cockpit that comes with a complete dashboard and ship’s wheel. The cockpit can be seen behind the porthole, visible to curious eyes! The brand states “At first, there was no plan for a dashboard in the boat’s cabin, but as soon as the idea of having a see-through element was discussed, they could not resist adding these secret details.”

MB&F and L’Epee offer personalisation as well when it comes to the ALBATROSS. While the clock itself is made from a mix of brass, steel, and aluminium, the ALBATROSS’s coloured elements offer a different perspective on this unique masterpiece. The ALBATROSS is offered in five colour choices: blue, red, green, champagne, and black. The colour parts are achieved using a translucent cold lacquer, similar to enamel, allowing the different finishing techniques applied underneath to be seen. It took L’EPee years to perfect this colouring technique, which offers a much superior depth compared to typical anodising treatments.

Final Thoughts

What the ALBATROSS stands for me is the epitome of two worlds colliding: horology and art. This pure expression of mechanical art leaves you in amazement at how absurd it is and how it’s both aesthetically pleasing to look at and a functional working clock that chimes out the hours and half-hours like a grandfather clock. In fact, it’s safe to say that this is a modern-day interpretation of this classic chime clock.

Of course, creating something as ridiculous as the ALBATROSS is nothing new to both MB&F and L’Epee. Both brands are known for pushing the boundaries in their respective fields of conventional watchmaking and mechanical machines. So when they come together, you can always expect something special; in the case of the ALBATROSS, they have indeed delivered. Combining an automation system with a precision chiming clock is incredibly rare, allowing the ALBATROSS to fly in a class of its own.

Reference: 63.6001/200

Specification:

• Measurement: 60cm length x 60cm width x 35cm height.
• Material: Mix of brass, steel, and aluminium.
• Colours on offer: Translucent cold lacquer in blue, red, green, champagne or black
• Functions: Hours and minutes displayed on individual revolving discs. Striking hour chiming both the specific hours on the hour and a single strike on the half-hour. Automaton composed of 16 pairs of propellers that launch into action every hour.
• Movement (Time): In-line 8-day power reserve movement. Balance frequency: 2.5 Hz / 18,000 bph. Manual wound via the propellers at the front of the flying machine: clockwise for the striking hour and anti-clockwise for the time.
  2 separate barrels powering the time and chiming functions.
• Movement (Propellor Automation): Power reserve: when activated, the automaton can run for one day.
  1 barrel dedicated to the automaton movement. Manual via the propellers at the back.
• Total Components: 1520

International Recommended Retail Pricing: CHF 129,000 (inc VAT), CHF 119,000 (ex VAT)

Availability: Limited Edition of 8 Pieces. For more information, inquire at www.lepee1839.ch

Czapek’s Antarctique collection is one of their most popular, and for Geneva Watch Days 2024, the brand has released their latest collection – the Antarctique Polar Sky and Flying Diamonds in two size variants. Their common denominator is the beautiful Aventurine dial that is representative of, yes you guessed it, the Polar Sky. With little light pollution in places like the Antarctic, when you look up to the sky at night, you’re met with a sight like no other – hundreds of thousands of stars looking back at you, twinkling away, breaking up the dark void that is space. Czapek has captured this vision in their Aventurine dials, all a deep dark blue with thousands of small sparkling dots that “twinkle” as you catch the light. Make sure you watch below as Chamath showcases the new Polar Sky on our Instagram page.

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Czapek has created two variants, in two different sizes for this release. You have both the Polar Sky models in a 40.5mm and 38.5mm size, and for those that want a little more sparkle, a Flying Diamonds model with 13 diamond hour indices (the 12 o’clock marker has 2) in both the 40.5mm and 38.5mm size variants. The special part of the Flying Diamonds models is the 13 diamond baguettes that have been cut with 24 facets to each, which look spectacular under a loupe and are invisibly set on the dial so as to not interfere with the dial’s aesthetics.

For the Polar Sky models, Czapek has designed the dials with the Aventurine glass, which is notoriously hard to work with, and the hour indices are cut and polished on all 12 sides of each index. This gives the impression of a precious stone on the dial, and when we saw these in person, admittedly, I mistook the non-diamond dial for the diamonds. An indication of how good the faceting and polishing is on the hour markers.

The bracelet and case are typically Czapek in their finishing. Brushed steel across the case and the bracelet to give the pieces that sporty look, and high polish on the inner links, and bezel. On the bracelet, Czapek has included a quick change mechanism, their patented “Easy Release” system to swap out for a strap, and in addition, something we’ve seen more of this year, micro-adjust on the bracelet allowing for an additional few millimeters each side for those hotter months of the year.

Inside beats the in-house SXH5.01 automatic caliber. This is the first movement to be entirely developed and made in-house by Czapek and incorporates a free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia, which is provided by four gold adjustable weights. This effectively enables the highest level of precision. The movement’s aesthetics are enhanced by the series of seven skeletonized bridges which hold the gear train together, and according to Czapek, “their original shape is reminiscent of lace, inspired on one side by XIX century pocket watches”

The movement beats at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH, pivots on 28 jewels and has a power reserve of 60 hours coming from a single barrel and the finishing is absolutely gorgeous with a combination of sandblasting, anglage and open design as to showcase all the major elements of the movement, such as the micro-rotor made from recycled platinum.

Each model is limited in number. The 40.5mm Polar Sky is limited to 99 pieces, and the 38.5mm is limited to 77. For the Flying Diamonds, the 40.5mm is limited to just 8 pieces, and the smaller variant has 18 pieces. However, these are all sold out not surprisingly, so if you’re keen on these, then you will have to contact Czapek directly and try your luck.

Initial Thoughts

When Czapek released the Artartique, it was an instant hit with collectors. The design of the Antarctique struck a chord with many, and with several iterations over the past few years, have only got better. The introduction of the new Polar Sky and Flying Diamonds is no exception, and clearly, as all 202 models are sold within a week of being released, are as popular as ever.

In the hand, these pieces feel great, and on the wrist, even better. They are solid, sporty, and elegant all in one, and with the Aventurine dials, the level of class goes up a notch here. They look spectacular and the dials do evoke that feeling of looking up at the sky on a clear night, somewhere out of the way and with very little to obscure the view of the heavens. With a bracelet and rubber or leather strap options to change out, it makes these more versatile and very much everyday pieces.

References: Antarctique Polar Sky & Flying Diamonds

Specification:

• Case Size: 40.5mm & 38.5mm
• Case Thickness: 10.6mm
• Case Material: Brushed and polished stainless steel
• Dial: Dark blue aventurine dial
• Movement: In-house SXH5.01 automatic caliber. 28 Jewels with micro-rotor and free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia.
• Movement Frequency: 38,800 VpH (4hZ)
• Movement Power reserve: 60hrs
• Water resistance: 12 bar (120 meters)
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal glassbox with anti-reflective coating
• Case back: SSapphire case back with anti-reflective coating on inner side
• Bracelet/Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with “Easy Release” mechanism, and micro-adjust. Additional calf or rubber strap included.

International RRP:

• 40.5mm & 38.5mm Polar Sky – 26,000 CHF
• 40.5mm Flying Diamonds – 42,800 CHF
• 38.5mm Flying Diamonds – 38,000 CHF

Availability: Polar Sky Limited to 99 pieces (40.5mm) & 77 pieces (38.5MM). Flying Diamonds limited to 8 pieces (40.5mm) & 18 pieces (38.5mm). Contact Czapek.com for more information

“Why can’t horology be m0re playful from time to time?” – The slogan that remains the driving force behind Studio Underd0g. A British microbrand founded during the height of the COVID pandemic, Studio Underd0g started as merely a passion project on a Facebook community page. 

However, founder Richard Benc would soon find that he had struck gold. The brand’s maiden watch, the 01SERIES, became a staple in the world of affordable horology. This was in large part due to its dedication to serious watchmaking, whilst being encased in quirky, unserious designs like the Watermel0n or the Mint Ch0c Chip – the latter of which yours truly even got to review!

Related Reading: Hands-On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

Being nominated for a GPHG award in 2023 was also bound to attract attention towards Studio Underd0g, and Edouard Meylan, CEO of legendary watchmaking brand H. Moser & Cie., began to take notice. The passionate story behind Studio Underd0g would leave an impression on him, as would their dedication to serious watchmaking and non-serious design – something Meylan knew all too much about himself. 

So, for Geneva Watch Days 2024, it seems that Benc and Meylan have elected to twist horological fate, teaming up from opposite ends of the industry to present Project Passion: A shared vision of creativity, the love of horology and playful rebelliousness in the face of the often grey and overly mature watch world.

Each brand has created a watch to represent the spirit of what Project Passion is all about, themed around the most passionate fruit of all: the passion fruit, of course! Starting with H. Moser, their offering is a new take on the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, using a duet of purple lacquer and delicately hammered grand feu enamel to represent the colours of the passionfruit. A contrasting green is also used for the month indicator, representing the seed of passion that begins the journey of every watch enthusiast.

Powered by the star HMC 800 perpetual calendar movement, Meylan and the H. Moser team have spared no expense in this project. As you can see from the image below, it is typical Moser in style and finish!

Related Reading: The Art Of Complications – The Perpetual Calendar

On the flip side, Richard Benc and Studio Underd0g have taken the time to tease the coming of an all-new collection with the Passi0n Fruit, which is the first of what has been named the 03SERIES. A major upgrade to the 01SERIES, the Passi0n Fruit boasts a multilayer yellow dégradé dial with purple accents, similar to its partner over at H. Moser.

This time, however, the 03SERIES sets the previous ST1901 movement aside to use the Swiss Sellita SW510 M. Not only does this make the 03SERIES the first Studio Underd0g chronograph with a Swiss movement, but also the first mono-pusher chronograph in the entire lineup. 

Final Thoughts

While their watches are certainly in the running for a top list of my favourites, I can undoubtedly say that both H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g are my favourite watch brands of all time. The ways in which Meylan and Benc carry themselves in an industry often dominated by snobbery and pretentiousness is incredibly admirable, which is reflected in the epic yet goofy nature of their watchmaking here.

Yes, there is a significant gap that may divide their audiences in two, but Project Passion stands as a reminder that the love of watchmaking should triumph over all. No matter what watch you’re wearing, how much it costs, what it looks like, or whatever amazing qualities it may possess, always remember you are in this industry because you love it so much. And regardless of what the person next to you is wearing, oftentimes they’re in it for the same reason as you. 

Reference: H. Moser: 1800-1200

• Dimensions: H. Moser – 42mm case diameter x 12.8mm thickness / Studio Underd0g – 38.5mm case diameter x 13.6mm thickness
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Dial: H. Moser – Purple lacquer fumé & yellow grand feu enamel / Studio Underd0g – Yellow dégradé dial with purple accents
• Movement: H. Moser: Manual wind HMC 800 with perpetual calendar / Studio Underd0g: Manual wind Sellita 510M
• Beat Rate:  H. Moser: 2.5Hz (18,000VpH) / Studio Underd0g: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
• Power Reserve: H. Moser: 168h/7 days / Studio Underd0g: 63h
• Strap: H. Moser: Black alligator with steel folding clasp / Studio Underd0g: Black calfskin with steel pin buckle

International RRP: CHF 59,000

Availability: Limited to 100 sets containing both watches & available for reservation. For more details, visit Underd0g.com or H-Moser.com

Holding a world record is just about one of the most impressive things you could possibly achieve. Imagine knowing that, out of everyone else on this planet, no one else can do what you can. In the watch industry, the race to hold a world record in any niche of watchmaking is highly regarded as it is contentious. And while some records seem to be set in stone – IWC, for example, just created a watch that will accurately predict the phase of the moon for the next 45 million years – some records are simply made to be broken.

Piaget were the first to break such a record in a major way when they made what was then the world’s thinnest wristwatch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, in 2018. Bulgari soon threw their hat into the ring, beating Piaget’s 2mm record with the 1.8mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra in 2022. Feeling a fight on their hands, Richard Mille would join the fray with the RM-UP01 Ferrari, coming in at a mighty 1.75mm, in the same year. Bulgari would snatch back the record from Richard Mille, with this year’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. But while Bulgari still has the world’s thinnest Chronometer in the world, nobody could have predicted the major upset that was to come.

Konstantin Chaykin is one of the world’s most highly regarded independent watchmakers and a horological inventor. For over twenty years, his eponymous brand has specialised in creating purely Russian-made timepieces out of Moscow, with levels of detail, artistry, and wonderment that can even make the likes of MB&F blush. From creating a watch that plays the world’s first motion picture at the press of a button, to a watch that tells the minutes via a mechanical hourglass, to the wacky and absurd Wristmons collection that even includes a Minions-themed watch – yes, really – there seems to be absolutely no limit for this micro engineering madman. 

And yet, he has decided to go even further with his new addition to the Wristmons lineup – the ThinKing. While still in its prototyping stage, the ThinKing is the latest entry into the thin watch arms race. Yet for an independent entry, you’d expect it to perhaps make the top five. However, the dedication of Chaykin is second to none, smashing the multi-million dollar brands in just one fell swoop. The ThinKing comes in at a monumental 1.65mm thick, beating a record Bulgari took two years to claw back – in just four months.

To put things in perspective, the Konstantin Chaykin is thinner than the average strand of spaghetti, and is less than .9mm thicker than the average credit card. It’s a watch that you can literally fit into your wallet, and it’s scarcely believable that such a thing could possibly function. Yet Chaykin finds a way, thanks to the K-23-0 movement, complete with manual key winding and a 32h power reserve. He even took the time to put in his signature Wristmons flair into it, as the watch is a regulator style, with the hours and minutes for the eyes, his brand logo for the nose, and a curved ‘Konstantin Chaykin’ logo text for the mouth, grinning all the while.

Final Thoughts

As I said, being the world’s greatest anything can draw massive amounts of attention towards yourself or whatever you represent. In their pursuit of the world’s thinnest watch, Piaget most certainly knew this, as did Richard Mille and Bulgari. But for one man to march into the middle of a war for the top spot and come out victorious is nothing short of poetic and hilarious.

But Konstantin Chaykin is no average man, nor is his brand. A venerable horological mastermind, Chaykin has single-handedly raised the bar for which these big corporate bodies have to scramble to jump over. Though it is still technically a prototype, the ThinKing is ready to take the fight to the big dogs of the watch world, and it will surely do so whilst keeping that smile on its face.

Reference: ThinKing Prototype 2 

• Dimensions: 40mm case diameter x 1.65mm thickness
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Dial: Konstantin Chaykin’s ‘Joker’ configuration
• Movement: In-House manual wind K-23-0 movement
• Beat Rate: 2.5Hz (18,000VpH)
• Power Reserve: 32h
• Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
• Strap: Specially developed black alligator/elastic strap with stainless steel pin buckle

International RRP: N/A

Availability: Prototype piece unique only. See Konstantin Chaykin’s official website Chaykin.ru for more information.

De Bethune is not your average watchmaker – a fact they may hold in high regard. However, the quirks in their watch designs belie one of the most talented brands in the industry. Co-founded in 2002 by fourth-generation watchmaker Dennis Flageollet and Pierre Jacques, they and the fifty highly skilled members of their team focus on the research and development of the latest and greatest technology horology has to offer. 

To date, they’ve made at least 31 watch movements, registered countless patents, and even made several hundred unique pieces. Their aesthetic is unmistakably their own, none more so than in the DB28 collection. An aerodynamic and contemporary piece thanks to its floating lugs, the DB28 is a ruthlessly modern and exceptionally engineered timepiece that pays tribute to the strides in watchmaking made by those long since past. However, there’s just one problem: the 42mm frame of the DB28 is, to say the least, quite imposing for a slim-wristed person such as myself

Thankfully, there exists the DB28xs collection, a 39mm variant that caters to a wider variety of wrist sizes without compromising on all the features that make De Bethune stand out even in a veritable ocean of haute horlogerie legends. For Geneva Watch Days, De Dethune has elected to expand the roster by two, giving the consumer a wider range of choices for what inevitably ends up on their wrist.

The first of the two is the DB28xs Steel Wheels. Encased in grade 5 titanium, the Steel Wheels is embodied through the complete exposure of its movement to the wearer, showcasing the immaculate finishing signature to all De Bethune watches as well as the completely blued escapement matching the hands. This has been done by way of a new movement, the DB2115V13, which is a miniaturised version of the original and larger Steel Wheels timepiece. Carrying a whopping 6-day power reserve indicated on the case back, the DB28xs Steel Wheels carries on the delicate and neo-futuristic artistry of the original in a smaller package for everyone to enjoy.

Speaking of neo-futuristic, the DB28xs Aérolite. My personal favourite of the two, De Bethune’s fascination with astrology and the wonders of space truly shines through in this masterpiece. As opposed to the open-worked Steel Wheels, the Aérolite’s dial has been outfitted with one of the most spectacular guilloché patterns – which De Bethune calls ‘random’ – that I’ve ever seen.

Bespeckled with white gold stars, it almost looks like a scene from a surrealist Sci-Fi film, as if you were about to go into hyperspace or travel through the multiverse. The otherworldly feel is only enhanced by the black zirconium construction of the case, which gives the Aérolite its name. Extremely light to the touch and backed by the classic DB2005 movement, this watch will feel like no other when you put it on – because it will feel like almost nothing at all.

Final Thoughts

De Bethune’s expansion of the DB28xs collection for Geneva Watch Days is small, yet highly exciting. After all, De Bethune has always sought beauty in minimalism, and their slogan of ‘not doing more, but instead doing better’ is not just some marketing gag. It’s an exacting way of operation, and with only about 50 employees under their charge, you can guess that their dedication to the craft is unparalleled. 

While I do appreciate the whimsical un-seriousness of brands like Studio Underd0g and H. Moser and Cie., brands like De Bethune that take themselves extremely seriously help to balance the watch industry out. They represent a different kind of passion – the kind that doesn’t just lift you up to heights you thought was improbable, but smashing through the clouds and aspiring to achieve the impossible: the perfect designs, engineered perfectly. With that, De Bethune’s pursuit will always be destined to continue, but in my opinion, they may just be the closest that anyone could possibly be.

References: DB28xs Steel Wheels  & DB28xs Aérolite

• Dimensions: 38.7mm case diameter x 8mm thickness (Steel Wheels), 38.7mm case diameter x 7.4mm thickness (Aérolite) 
• Case Material: Grade 5 titanium (Steel Wheels), Black zirconium (Aérolite) 
• Dial: Open-worked with Circular satin-finish titanium hours and minutes ring with polished
• blued titanium hour-markers (Steel Wheels), Blue meteorite dial with a random guilloche dial and a starry sky with white gold stars (Aérolite) 
• Movement: Manual wind DB2115V13 movement (Steel Wheels), manual wind DB2005 movement (Aérolite)
• Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
• Power Reserve: 144h/6 days
• Strap: Black textile/alligator leather with pin buckle

International RRP: Upon Request

Availability: Available upon inquiry. See the De Bethune‘s website – Debethune.ch for more information.